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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Toe The Line (5.10b)
By: Michael Amato When: Aug 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's worth noting that the original line on the first pitch stepped right at the third bolt, but that was prior to a loose block being cleaned. I revisited this route a couple of days ago and this move still goes, but more likely at hard ten or 11a. To keep the grade at 10b, swing out left to easier holds.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Jackson-Johnson (5.9)
By: Michael Amato When: Jul 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Re crux: not sure if I climbed this properly... I went up the left corner, well left of the rusted 1/4" bolt with the spinning "gunsight" hanger. All I can say is getting back out of that corner and above it was a hell of a lot harder than 5.9, that is, without "grab(ing) one piece of pro". I would also add: DON'T get stuck up in that corner. It was most unpleasant.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Metamorphosis (5.10a)
By: Michael Amato When: May 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed Diffraction to this route last weekend, got off-route at the crux and ended up going for a ride. Had to re-climb the crux and finish the climb with the payback... bumps, bruises, a cracked helmet and a well-sprained ankle. Climb this one with a clear head (as opposed to a hangover) and remember to go the right way at the crux, or the payback can be a bitch.
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Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Michael Amato When: May 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think he's old enough, experienced enough and accomplished enough to know better.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Northumberland Crack (5.9+)
By: Michael Amato When: Nov 4, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch of this climb has as much or more loose rock on it than just about anything I've climbed. But it leads to absolutely stellar climbing above!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Roof Wall (5.9 R)
By: Michael Amato When: Oct 30, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, "with a little more traffic, this route should clean up nicely" ;-)
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Sunstar (5.9 R)
By: Michael Amato When: Oct 29, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Taking care around a few areas of loose rock, especially at the summit, I found this route to have a lot of fun climbing with adequate pro. The third pitch is a little runout, but what a treat!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Technical Remote Viewing (5.11a)
By: Michael Amato When: Aug 16, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux is getting stood up on the wide ledge under the bulge... from there, the next hold is within easy reach. But if you neglect your feet, and that ledge, and try to just move up on the crimpers, you're in for some tough moves.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : The Fool (5.10d)
By: Michael Amato When: Aug 1, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, sort of awkward and grungy down low... some nicer moves up above, though still a bit grungy up there, too.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Reefer Madness (5.11a)
By: Michael Amato When: Jul 22, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you can reach the sidepull on the lower move (I can and I'm 5'-9"), you may take for granted a very tough move to get to that hold for a shorter person. Same goes for the top.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Litlle Kitten (5.10c)
By: Michael Amato When: Jul 22, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route... mixes it up with a variety of moves.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Foxy (5.11b)
By: Michael Amato When: Jul 22, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: One delicate face move underneath roof, then the awkward Eldo 5.9 ass smear. No where near 5.11.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Aquarium Wall : Justin Alf Memorial Route (5.10b/c)
By: Michael Amato When: Jul 18, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some fun moves, but the start as well as the finish may warrant an "s" rating. Oh, and add a couple of letter grades for lichen-impaired seeing and breathing, not to mention hand and foot holds.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest : Merry Men (5.11b)
By: Michael Amato When: Jul 13, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route, hard down low, but I couldn't quite find the 11b staying straight on the bolts.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Verschneidung ... : Morning Thunder (5.9+)
By: Michael Amato When: Jun 12, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Short and steep with good pro and good feet, great body positions. Lots of good hand holds (fingers), just use TCUs and keep moving. I'll come back and do this one again.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Morte (5.9)
By: Michael Amato When: Jun 12, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Devious route, but a lot of fun!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : Laughing at the Moon (5.10b)
By: Michael Amato When: Jun 7, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Exciting face climbing on beautiful rock, solid bolts and pins, and a well-protected crux.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Alice in Bucketland (5.8+ R)
By: Michael Amato When: Jun 7, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is not to be missed! Steep rock, dramatic setting, esthetic climbing and exciting cruxes. From the first belay, it's one long 60 meter pitch to the top, using all but about ten feet of the rope.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: Michael Amato When: Jun 7, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this route again the other day, and finished with Alice In Bucketland - a full day and highly recommended! As I had remembered, the opening sequence on the first pitch, getting to and past the first bolt, is technically the most challenging. But you can't get anxious as you get closer to the wall, you have to look for and find all the holds... you can't miss anything on this pitch or you'll pay for it.
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : May-B-Nueve (5.8)
By: Michael Amato When: Jun 5, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Slabby and thin from bottom to top, very challenging for the grade, and a great mental warm-up.
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Lovesnake (5.10b)
By: Michael Amato When: Jun 3, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stepping right onto the slab after the second bolt as the new guidebook suggests keeps this climb mild. Heading straight up to the third bolt and on to the anchor (as is suggested by the bolts and anchors themselves), I suspect, is yet harder than 5.10d. Next time.
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Ordinary People (5.9 R)
By: Michael Amato When: Jun 3, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: It looks like a third bolt has been added up high.
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Concupiscent Curds (5.10b)
By: Michael Amato When: Jun 3, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Several pumpy moves on steep rock - I thought this route was hard for 5.10b.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : As We Liked It (5.10)
By: Michael Amato When: Jun 3, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The key for me at the start was to work my feet up very high off of nearly straight arms on the undercling to get the most surface area from my shoes and the best purchase because the feet are very thin. From there it's a matter of finding a couple of small edges to straighten up on and then stepping back and right to a "ledge"with the right foot to allow stepping up with the left foot and snagging another ledge up and left with the left hand. The grass-choked slots didn't help the hands any. My... more >>
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Whipping Post (5.11a)
By: Michael Amato When: May 26, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bob, I think he added 5 bolts as there are 7 bolts there now. Too bad, climbing this with only two bolts would be a scary lead (!), but now there is almost z-clip potential where the climbing is fairly moderate.
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