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Member Since: Jan 20, 2006
Last Visit: Aug 10, 2007
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Michael Allen

 
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All (7) | Routes | Areas | Photos | Comments (4) | Posts | Stars (3) | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Chicken Eruptus (5.10 R)
By: Michael Allen When: Jul 4, 2006

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Comments: Amen Jeremy! And I didn't even lead it, just followed on TR. But if you take a look at who put it up, well, can you say "old school".


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Birdland (5.7+)
By: Michael Allen When: Jan 30, 2006

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Comments: If you don't have a 70m rope, and you don't want to bring a second rope for the rappels, it is possible to get down with one 60m rope if you don't mind a little minor downclimbing.
(Disclaimer: I didn't climb the sixth pitch but the Brock/McMillen book says it's only 80 feet long so a 60m would be more than adequate if that's true.)
Anyhow, here's how we did it from the anchor at the top of pitch five:
From P5 anchor I rapped straight down the face towards the P4 anchor. When I reached the k... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle : The Friar (5.9)
By: Michael Allen When: Jan 22, 2006

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Comments: I climbed this route a couple months ago and thought I could add a few comments to clarify the descent beta.
1) The new Brock/McMillen guide book says, "Rappel the backside of the boulder, and then rappel the route in three rappels using 2 ropes."
2) The Swain book says you can rappel the route with 1 rope, but his description of how to do it was not very helpful, although I cannot say it isn't possible. But having climbed and rappeled the route I'm still not sure exactly how to understand his... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : Geronimo (5.6)
By: Michael Allen When: Jan 22, 2006

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Comments: Climbed this route yesterday (Jan. 21, 2006) and thought I could provide some updated info.
(P1) There is now webbing and cordage, equipped with one quick link and one biner, slinging a very large boulder at the top of pitch one.
(P2) The next large terrace at the top of pitch two now has a two bolt belay/rappel anchor. (Some people end pitch two at a smaller ledge approx. 50 feet below but this is totally unnecessary if you're using a 60 meter rope, although it is almost a full rope length... more >>


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Birdland 5.7+

NV : Red Rock : ... : Brass Wall

Geronimo 5.6

NV : Red Rock : ... : Jackrabbit Buttress

The Friar 5.9

NV : Red Rock : ... : The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle