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Member Since: Apr 1, 2001
Last Visit: Sep 22, 2008
Contact Michael Walker


Point Rank: # 655
Total Points: 967
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Michael Walker been climbing?










Contributions


All 229 | Routes 44 | Areas 13 | Photos 51 | Page Improvements | Comments 77 | Posts | Stars 44 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Photo
By: Michael Walker When: Mar 4, 2008

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Comments: That is exactly what an acid trip looks like. Just don't look in the mirror.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Hold The Line (5.9)
By: Michael Walker When: Nov 17, 2007

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Comments: Felt like a 5.7 route. Contrived. Would have enjoyed gear where the cracks were on the overlaps, therefore, felt like a sport route for the sake of being a sport route. Yawn.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Bihedral Arete (5.10a)
By: Michael Walker When: Nov 17, 2007

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Comments: Good route. I don't know why I should feel thankful for not finding bolts next to cracks, but I was - made the route worthwhile. 2nd pitch was great, excellent face climbing and great pro. I'd climb again. 5.9+.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : Entrance Overhang : Cave Man Crawl (V0-1)
By: Michael Walker When: Nov 15, 2007

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Comments: Thanks, Allen - I was going to add this rock to the database, but didn't know the name. So, Thank you for giving me a space to put up the route shot!

I like this route, lunging and sticking the handlebar at the end is so gratifying.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : Little Boulder : Left Arete (V-easy)
By: Michael Walker When: Nov 11, 2007

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Comments: I really enjoyed this problem. It reminds me in a strange way of A7's V1 in the Flatirons - starts inverted and ends on a high note. So I can't reconcile the v-easy rating here with how I'm doing it. Sit start as a bear hug under the rock, down right - move out the nice rail with heel hooks and then a couple right hand throws to finger crimps on the face, followed by the crux left hand stab at the bucket and thence to the top - ahhhh.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Three-Quarter Ton (5.10b/c)
By: Michael Walker When: Oct 15, 2007

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Comments: The new guidebook says "spicy, yet well protected" up top. There wasn't anything spicy about it, but it was very good. Of the 6 5.10s we did in the area, this was the consensus best.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : Sputnik Left (V2)
By: Michael Walker When: Sep 12, 2007

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Comments: Agreed, it seems the V2 must be a contrived sequence. How do I know? Cause I am a terrible boulderer and indeed, I can do this one. Seems a couple of jams/side pulls on the crack allow you to move your feet up to some good pebbles to the right of the crack, then a move to the top to the left of the crack...easy cheesy.

Glad to be back home in Colorado - lunch "hour" bouldering is where it's at!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Dominator (5.10c)
By: Michael Walker When: Sep 16, 2004

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Comments: I may have jumped to the lowbrow when I said Jackass, but hey, that's what I thought, and Richard is an adult. I'm sure he understands where I'm coming from - he's been in the climbing game long enough to know the decision he was making when bolting next to a crack was not going to be praised by everyone who climbs his legacy.

I now live in the PNW and at the crags in Washington, BC, etc, the need to clean a climb before it can be sent doesn't have the mystique it seems to have here. As if t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Dominator (5.10c)
By: Michael Walker When: Sep 15, 2004

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Comments: Hey Bob,

Boy, if it is Rossiter who put this up, this is out of character with so many fine mixed routes he's done. Say it isn't so!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Shanahan Crag : South Face (5.4)
By: Michael Walker When: Mar 13, 2003

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Comments: Ha! Right, Leo - if the definition of "crack climb" is one you take from climbing in Indian Creek (i.e. stuff hands and/or body in crack and wedge, wedge, wedge), then this isn't a crack climb at all! I don't think I even used a finger jam on this thing. To clarify, this is a rare climb in the Flatirons that actually follows a discernable, continuos crack; AND one that takes good pro. For the Flatirons a rare thing indeed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park
By: Michael Walker When: Dec 27, 2002

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Comments: Continuing in that vein, Patrick, I was in Chile in '98 near Chillan and we came across sport climbing. How could we tell? Well, there were arrows, names and ratings painted on the rock, along with the bolts. Pretty good for us, considering we had no guidebook to the region, but it was pretty unsightly as you could imagine. Funny thing was that as we were climbing one of the routes, the equipper approached us to make sure we weren't a couple of duffers ready to get ourselves killed (what he ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Left Side (5.9+)
By: Michael Walker When: Nov 11, 2002

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Comments: Charles,

I had the same question about this area when I visited it the first time; I don't have any "concrete" land rules, only my experience to share (as well as my own opinions - he-he). So here it is: In the number of times I've been there I've never had an issue with crossing the "cross or die" signs going up the hill past the erosion breaks. And I guess that goes with the quantities of others through the ages who have crossed the signs in the past to put up all the routes in th... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Miscellaneous Castlewood Bo... : Little Devil (V11 X)
By: Michael Walker When: Nov 8, 2002

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Comments: This was the funniest thing I've seen in a long time. Thanks!

(I bet the bolt would have been chopped if installed...)


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Wise Crack (5.8)
By: Michael Walker When: Oct 20, 2002

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Comments: If we could assess the needs of bolts on each route specifically, start with this one. It's a very fun route. Problem is, as the name would imply, it's a crack. And it's bolted. And the excuse for this is?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Country Club Crack (5.11c)
By: Michael Walker When: Sep 29, 2002

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Comments: I found the only real rest on the second pitch came after the roof, where I was able to slide my whole right leg into the wide crack, flexed and torqued until solid and I was able to hang quite comfortably sans meathooks (what my arms felt like after the roof). I wouldn't call it a "knee lock", more of an off width jam. I got it all back but it didn't really matter a hoot, the last 15' still kicked my ass.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Edwards' Crack (5.7)
By: Michael Walker When: Sep 11, 2002

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Comments: After fleeing a rainsoaked Utah last week, our beaten party pulled off the highway and wham-bam-booey, minutes later our tour was saved from disaster - we were climbing this classic route in the sun. A must do for the start or end to any roadtrip going north. For that matter so is most of Vedauwoo.

Scott's suggestion to cruise the starting layback to rests before placing pro is spot on, and I found a #4 had great character to protect the next couple moves into the stellar handcrack. We... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Shanahan Crag : South Face (5.4)
By: Michael Walker When: Sep 3, 2002

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Comments: And a little more beta on the approach, which is a little more "wild" than it would appear from Rossiter's guidebook. We approached from the South Shanahan trail and returned down the North Shanahan trail. Both took just over an hour (a little more on the up, of coarse) and seemed no different in length or difficulty. Remember the old saying: "Uphills both ways"?

From the intersection with the Mesa trail (when ascending the SST), turn right (north) and walk 100 yards to the broad meadow. ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Monkey's Uncle (5.10c/d)
By: Michael Walker When: Sep 2, 2002

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Comments: We really enjoyed this climb, the multiple small roofs kept this interesting to the end. One question though, Stephen, how bad were the large flakes at the last roof before they were glued (the middle 10d version I guess from your description)? It seemed to us that if they were pulled out it might have made the climb an 11 or so (but who knows, right?). That was the only drawback for me, seeing all that glue. Just wanted to get your thoughts on why you wanted to save them.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Shanahan Crag : South Face (5.4)
By: Michael Walker When: Sep 2, 2002

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Comments: I'll second that, Guy, one of the best easy crack climbs in the Flatirons. We also decided the route in Rossiter's guide missed the mark, the crack we chose began with parallel cracks down to the right from the one in the photo. This one had fantastic pro, multiple cruxes and was just off vertical making the climbing sustained right up until you topped out on the ridge crest. I totally dug the finger crux that is obvious from the ground. You rarely get a 5.4 with such quality climbing right ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : West Face (variation) (5.7)
By: Michael Walker When: Aug 30, 2002

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Comments: I know all that, (did the dry route twice last week)...But you gotta try it when full, at least once - it's actually quite a trip!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West... : Deer Ridge Buttress : Nun Buttress (5.8)
By: Michael Walker When: Aug 25, 2002

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Comments: Classic route. The first pitch of Nun's ranks as one of my top five hand cracks I've done in the Boulder area. While others peter out after a couple moves, this one goes on and on. Some notes from our climb:

We hiked in from the Deer Mtn Trailhead and the key to starting the bushwhack is to leave the trail at the first switchback encountered that has a large cairn. Don't bother looking for an obvious trail, it is very faint, and the contouring bushwhack will feel very rugged, even if you ar... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Gambit (5.8)
By: Michael Walker When: Aug 16, 2002

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Comments: Jeez, all this good beta taking the mystique out of the off width! Admittedly, I thrashed around in full arm bar style until wedged 2' higher and said: "5.7? there has got to be a better way!" Figuring out that better way was such a good experience.

Typically, regardless of the apparent quality of the fixed gear at Eldo, I try and back it up where possible. In the future, I'd bring my #3.5 as suggested by Roger and not bother with the pin.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Reggae (5.8)
By: Michael Walker When: Aug 15, 2002

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Comments: Climbed this one in June, and some of the brain cells still work. I found the pro to be awesome, and only difficult to place as I was laying back in the crux fishing through my rack looking for the right piece. Stenuous, but not terrible. You know, like climbing 5.8. Up to that point, there were a number of high steps to reach bomber gear (opting to forgo the mearly good gear placements to be had) and nothing memorable about run outs. Overall impression: fantastic lead for a 5.8 leader look... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Purple Haze (5.9)
By: Michael Walker When: Aug 4, 2002

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Comments: A blue Alien protects the crux of this climb quite well; look for a small crack high and right once standing on the shelf below the crux face. Provides decent pro right in your face at the point where you are reaching and grunting and smearing those feet up to reach buckets before the hand crack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Five-Eight Crack (5.8 R)
By: Michael Walker When: Aug 4, 2002

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Comments: Feeling great about leading 5.10 crack, I thought this would have seem a logical warm down. Bad assumption. The pro indeed sucks until about 30 feet off the ground, well past the crux. And about that crux - good gravy. I looked at the book and realized that 5.8+ crack was put up by Bob Culp and Bob Lagrange in 62'. The + obviously meant that there was no 5.9 in those days...5.10 crack was led in 73 by the Briggs boys, and they indeed had 5.10 climbs. A little historical perspective on the ... more >>


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