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Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum with my wife.


Member Since: Nov 7, 2002
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
Contact Michael Schneiter


Point Rank: # 48
Total Points: 6,986
Last Year: 1,211
Last 30 Days: 422
189 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
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Where has Michael Schneiter been climbing?










Michael Schneiter

 
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All (2520) | Routes (228) | Areas (61) | Photos (706) | Comments (261) | Posts (339) | Stars (902) | Ratings (23)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Wild Iowa Wall
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: Joe has the order listed. I couldn't do it off the top of my head otherwise I would have chimed in earlier. Thanks to you both.


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Wild Iowa Wall
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: The routes on this wall aren't listed in the proper L to R order (or R to L).


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Euro Route (5.11)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 7, 2014

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Comments: I don't know who put the bolts in, next to a perfect crack, but I know it dates back at least 10 years. My wife climbed it with her brother in 2004 or 2005 and I remember seeing the bolts while climbing in the area prior to 2004.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Angel's Landing : Lowe Route (A2)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 5, 2014

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Comments: Mike Anderson freed it, with a 3 pitch variation, at 5.13a.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : The Boulders : Brought to you by the lette... (5.5 V-easy PG13)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: Probably not appropriate to claim FAs on the easier lines on the boulders. First bolted ascent, maybe, but not a true FA. People have climbed here for a long time, and there were existing anchors on many of these lines. I personally free soloed the easier lines many times, and I'm sure I wasn't the first. Plus, the route Bert follows a crack that is easily protected.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Petrified Wall
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: If traveling from the south (from Gateway or the Unaweep granite), it is 3.5 miles from the Cactus Park turnoff to the parking lot for the Petrified Wall.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 21, 2014

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Comments: Maybe an admin can update the info in the description: The day pass at Rifle is $5 per car. You can get season passes, which are a great deal, from the campground host/park ranger or at the City of Rifle Parks Department in town.

The camping fee is increasing to $10 this year.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Monster Tower : North Ridge (5.11)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: We rapped the route with a single 60 meter rope (an Edelweiss FYI, although I'm not sure if it's extra long compared to other 60s). Tie knots in the ends as all of the raps were long and close to the limit of a 60 and the last rap required some easy down climbing for a few feet.

Rap lengths by pitches: Pitch 5 was 95'. Pitch 4 was 90'. Pitch 3 was 100'. Pitch 2 was all of 100' with some helpful rope stretch. Pitch 1 was just over 100' with 5 feet of easy down climbing.

There is currently a l... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Standing Rock : The Regular Route (5.11c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: Also, we had read the comments about the summit needing a new register so we brought one up, although someone else had beat us to the punch. Either way, there is now a good register up there.

Also, it was a rope stretching 100 foot rappel from the top of pitch one to the ground. Call it 102' and tie knots in the end if you're going to rap that section with a single 60.

And, we took new #4 and #5 Camalots and used them although I'm a bit of a wimp and like to place a lot of gear. ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Standing Rock : The Regular Route (5.11c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: Jake's beta is good for the fixed line approach but here's a little to add: The section of road where you are driving on slick rock and are very close to the edge of Monument Basin, with the arched tower visible, is a great landmark. It is .7 mile from that arched tower viewpoint to the pullout. There is a wide, sandy wash you cross with steep sandy driving on both sides of the wash. We pulled into a small wash on the left (pictured below) just after that wider sandy wash. I think that's ... more >>


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Pup Tent of Solitude : Jennifer's World (5.11c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 2, 2014

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Comments: Thanks, Jeff. So, what's the bolt count on this now? Is there still a nut? I can update the route description. It's a sweet, sweet route! Thanks for putting it in.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Isaac : Tricks of the Trade (5.10+ C2+)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Feb 19, 2014

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Comments: Admins, do you think we could or should change the name of this route to Tricks of the Trade? It is the name of the route (see comments above from Middendorf's site) and having the wrong name on this page just seems to add confusion and make it hard to search in the database. Thanks.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Glenwood Canyon Ice : Glenwood Falls - Left / Rig... (WI4-5)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jan 17, 2014

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Comments: No raps are needed if you go up to the base of the quartzite and head climber's left into the large quartzite amphitheater where Deep Throat is located. From there, hike down the gully and then cross over a small ridge to get into the gully on the climber's left side of Glenwood Falls, putting you back at the base and your packs with relative ease.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Glenwood Canyon Ice : Unknown (WI4-5)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jan 17, 2014

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Comments: This climb is almost exactly 70 meters long. I lead it in one long pitch the other day, and the rope came tight a few meters before the large tree on the right side of the gully with many slings. Easily rapped with two 70 meter cords.

While possible to lead it in one pitch, it's not recommended unless you use long slings and your belayer is prepared to simul-climb the start.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Upper Exum Ridge (5.5) : Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: We sprinted out of there and got off quickly. I don't think we felt a drop of rain from the storm until we were well into Garnet Canyon. It helps that we were moving super light and fast.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Grey Slabs : The Thread (5.9+)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: I believe the pro was 5 bolts, a pin between the 1st and 2nd bolt, and an in situ thread (old rope) near the top.

And, it's much more like 70-80 feet instead of 90. Still, well-spaced pro.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Grey Slabs : Sugar Pop (5.10d)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: Thanks Jeff. I must have put my comment on the wrong route. My bad. I'm going to delete me comment and move it to the appropriate route. Thanks for putting up these routes. It's a fun and interesting place to climb!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork : Expecting (5.9 R)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: What's the beta on this route? Location? Gear?


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Kubrick's
By: Michael Schneiter When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: Dave, it is a MJM route. He calls it 12a, but Scott and I tried it and couldn't figure out how to do a wicked hard move in the middle of the route. So, it didn't feel anything like 12a to us, but maybe we just totally missed something.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : Deutsches Blut (5.11-)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 17, 2013

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Comments: This is a good new route. It's also fun to climb Irish Blood and finish on the top of this route for a bit longer of 5.10 climbing. Thanks for putting in the work and getting it in!


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sapper Cave : That One Climb (5.12a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 17, 2013

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Comments: I thought this thing was pretty sweet. A bolt got added in one runout section, and I think some of the more questionable flakes have been removed. Definitely a quality line and a fun, long pitch.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sapper Cave : Westerplatte (5.12a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 17, 2013

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Comments: Good route with a bit of new route crispiness to it still. The crux felt hard for the grade and the sustained 5.11 climbing felt all of 5.11. I have heard some people describe this as maybe being harder than 12a. Good stuff, whatever it is, get on it!


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sapper Cave : Right El Sapper (5.12b)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 16, 2013

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Comments: Rebolted with ClimbTech WaveBolt glue-ins, supplied by the ASCA. There was one bolt that had been replaced relatively recently that I left. Also, I placed a Fixe Triplex where you reach left into the underclings (bolt #5 or 6?). The old bolt was way out left, but I wasn't sure exactly where the best placement would be. With the Triplex, it's bomber for now, and we can always pull it and fill the hole with a glue-in or move the bolt if it's not in the best spo... more >>


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Wall of Life : Agape (5.10c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: I changed the grade on this and Cut the Cord to reflect the feedback I heard and also I think my opinion started to change. But, chime in because community consensus seems to work best for grading routes. Enjoy.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Meat Wall : 80 Feet of Meat (5.11a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: Great work, Lynn and Derek. Thanks!


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