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Chillin' at City of Rocks


Member Since: May 22, 2006
Last Visit: Aug 24, 2015
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Princess Mia
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Total Points: 427
Last Year: 21
Last 30 Days: 5
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1098 | Routes | Areas | Photos 66 | Page Improvements | Comments 97 | Posts 690 | Stars 163 | Ratings 82
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Selfish Wall : Tag Team (5.10)
By: Princess Mia When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: This route is about 60 feet……. a BD#2 is very useful for the top move……..


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Selfish Wall : Breakfast Social (5.10-)
By: Princess Mia When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: Didn't measure this one but it seems longer than 45…….. maybe 55 or so. A couple of small pieces may be nice for the start


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Selfish Wall : I&I (5.10-)
By: Princess Mia When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: Admin folk……. we measured this on and it is 90 feet

Big fists or stacks for small hands…… fun stuff. The anchor is in a poor location with loads of rope drag…..


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Selfish Wall : Solo East (5.11)
By: Princess Mia When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: Admin folk…… we measured this route and it is at least 80 feet!!!!

4 BD 0.5 would come in handy…… two early and two at the crux……..
I only had one and had to walk it forever…..


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Amaretto Corner (5.11)
By: Princess Mia When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: Yep I agree with Matt….

This is a TWO PITCH route!!!! Hence the rating. The second pitch is significantly harder than many 5.11 cracks at the creek so worthy a plus rating IMHO……

And for all those giving P1 a 5.10 rating…… well you all need to learn to climb OW. LOL
The exit move is easy 5.9 hand stacking with bomber feet!!!! Gear for P1 in order: BD 2, 3, 3, 4, 5 thats is all. If needed, one can walk a piece….
P2 is simply amazing, a very crisp edge in a stunning corner. Liebcking???? Naw, ju... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall : Jupiter Crack (5.11)
By: Princess Mia When: May 9, 2015

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Comments: Super route! The crux is the start passing the bolts. Very very desperste if you are short.
And whomever put the bolts in should have their head examined. They dont even come close to protecting the crux moves..... In fact a ground fall would happen if you blow it after the first one and a ledge fall after the second. I really dont think Hong would approve of the shitty placements.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Tommy Gun (5.11)
By: Princess Mia When: May 9, 2015

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Comments: Great addition to the OW world. Dirty.... Yes! But the climbing is so fun with a very very exciting exit out of the chimney into the squeeze.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Haters' Ball (5.11)
By: Princess Mia When: May 9, 2015

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Comments: Love Love Love

So superfun!!!!
Too small for knees but perfect stacks and calf bars. And the finish is awesome.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : ... : The Squid (WI5-6 M6-7)
By: Princess Mia When: Dec 3, 2014

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Comments: General info:

Approach takes about one hour if there is a good trail. Approximately 1.8 miles and 1,000 vertical feet gained to base of route.

Sun all day! Unless cloudy of course…. LOL

190 feet to the top (give or take). One pitch if all ice, maybe two if mixed….
Rap route with two 60m ropes from tat around tree… bring extra cord/rap rings to replace existing if needed.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Virgin Voyage (5.10+)
By: Princess Mia When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: Fun Fun Fun….but still so hard……..

For me, double set of Master Cams (blue-orange), I also use a BD 0.3 and 0.4. Save a baby blue for the top.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : FF1 (5.11)
By: Princess Mia When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: What a super-fun line. Went back for another jog last weekend. For me it starts with big hands, goes to super raptly hands (thank goodness the start is easy) then the meat of the climb is glorious fists for me. Mostly big BD #3 but a couple of BD #3.5 works too. I don't think the new BD #4 fits……

A 70 meter rope doesn't work unless you use many tricks…….. we were way too short but had a tag line along so no problem.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Cal and Andy's Route (5.10)
By: Princess Mia When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: Yes it is pretty short but super fun moves and great rests. The route gobbles gear in the thin hands range. The first roof/flake/step-around is fun and not too hard. Look around…..its all there. The final bulge is the meat of the climb…….much steeper than it looks, but there are plenty of good (deep) hand jams……you will just loose your feet for a move or two. Fun route!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Unnamed 5.11- just L of Las... (5.11-)
By: Princess Mia When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: The anchor has two bolts!

Fun route. Dont be discourage cause it looks dirty up there (you don't climb that way!!!…… start in the bombay type slot and after about 15 feet or so step/ chimney/stem right and pull over the fun flake. Pay attention to gear placement and use long slings. An old #4 is useful at the top.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : The Walker Spur (5.10b/c R) : Photo (Copy)
By: Princess Mia When: Oct 23, 2014

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Comments: Great beta pic


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Solar Slab (5.6)
By: Princess Mia When: Oct 21, 2014

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Comments: Yesterday was my first time climbing Solar Slab. Did it in one pitch in one hour. A perfect fun outing.
A few notes:
Pro can be found early on pitch one if one is looking.
Be careful when passing the exit of Arch Enemy on pitch 2, lots of loose rock.
The rest of the route is kind of a blur, super easy climbing, lots of good gear.
All stations have good bolts but no chains (except for P1 and P7 if I remember correctly)……lots of old tat….. bring extra webbing just in case you need to back up a st... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Challenger (5.10d PG13)
By: Princess Mia When: Oct 21, 2014

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Comments: Yep pitch two is a rope eater when rapping. I highly recommend rapping Jupiter. Super clean. However, the last rap leaves you 15 feet shy of the ground if you use a 70m rope….. I didn't find the down climbing that easy…… but maybe I was just tired……

I thought pitch two was glorious. Super fun body position. I didn't think the thin dihedral was that desperate……in fact I got a no hands rest in the "crux". I thought the balancy and reachy moves on pitch four being the most desperate on the whole c... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : The Talisman (WI6 M6)
By: Princess Mia When: Jan 28, 2014

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Comments: Such a fun and exciting climb.

Two 60m ropes work perfectly for the raps. Just head right at the top for maybe 50ft to the second rap tree. Rap to huge tree on ledge. Another rap to ground. Easy and straightforward.


Location: Haley D : pics : Photo
By: Princess Mia When: Dec 5, 2013

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Comments: I love that climb!!!!
Cute pic


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Mad Dog (5.11)
By: Princess Mia When: Nov 16, 2013

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Comments: This is sooooooo super fun!!! Another one of my faves at this wall. Although not in the same league as Curiosity……. but nothing is.
A few BD#0.5 followed by several BD#0.75, with a BD#1 finish.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Unnamed 5.10: Route 41 ( 46... (5.10)
By: Princess Mia When: Nov 16, 2013

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Comments: It looks like an OW but it doesn't climb like one. Really fun stemming and chimney style climbing. Maybe one BD#5…….
The crux is leaving the ground…… the rest is pretty easy.
Use common sense when pulling the rope!!!! For very very obvious reasons.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Doggie Go (5.11-)
By: Princess Mia When: Nov 16, 2013

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Comments: I thought this was pretty darn fun….and way easy…

Just use some pretty basic chimney/squeeze technique and then surmount the top.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Curiosity (5.11)
By: Princess Mia When: Nov 16, 2013

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Comments: This is one of the best climbs at the creek….period.

All I can say is WOW!!!!!!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Kitty Litter (5.10)
By: Princess Mia When: Nov 16, 2013

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Comments: Great route! But yeah the bottom totally spanked me…… I give the start 11- even for little hands……

And I ditto Devin's remark above!!!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton : South Mineral Creek : Snowblind (WI4)
By: Princess Mia When: Nov 16, 2013

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Comments: I just did this route two days ago. Absolutely excellent!!!! Very thin in places with little to no pro. Overall the climbing is max WI 4 but with a + for spice.
Three easy raps with one 60 meter rope. The first is off a tree and just gets you down (i.e. you need a true 60), the next two raps are both off a stopper/knotted sling combo.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton : South Mineral Creek : Direct North Face (WI4)
By: Princess Mia When: Nov 16, 2013

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Comments: The ice is fantastic right now. Just cruised the whole thing yesterday. A few sections are thin with somewhat exciting top-outs. I used a few stubbies to save the head. The walk-off (skier's right) is obvious with a well-defined trail. It is super steep and does require lots of sliding down through thick saplings... but overall not a bad descent.


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