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Member Since: Mar 13, 2006
Last Visit: Mar 12, 2014
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Point Rank: # 5,998
Total Points: 50
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Areas are worth 15
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Contributions


All (495) | Routes (1) | Areas | Photos | Comments (40) | Posts (259) | Stars (128) | Ratings (67)
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

To The Sun

5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a (6)

Trad, 2 pitches, 300'

CO : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock

Oct 1, 2006

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Mt. Shuksan
By: Merlin When: Mar 14, 2009

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Comments: Coming when?


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Culp-Bossier (5.8+)
By: Merlin When: Jun 29, 2008

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Comments: Best route I've ever done in Colorado at the grade. This should be the definition of 4 stars for 5.8 alpine. On the flip side, if you just lead 5.8 in the crags (as I do) I wouldn't touch leading this with a 10 foot pole. Doing it with a 70 meter is a good idea.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Hen and Chickens : Cackle Crack (5.8)
By: Merlin When: Apr 29, 2008

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Comments: Superb lead for those working into the 8s, it gobbles gear.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Handcracker Direct (5.10a)
By: Merlin When: Apr 28, 2008

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Comments: For me, the cruxes were getting into the crack on pitch one and getting through the corner on pitch 2. The supposed crux itch seemed easy in comparison but it also made the climb. Fantastic stems, foot stacks, hand jams, and a fun lieback up to a jug made the last pitch a real classic crack for Eldo. It was much more fun than the crack on Blind Faith.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Organ Pipes (5.6)
By: Merlin When: Sep 23, 2007

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Comments: Funky clmbing for a 5.6, not a good intro lead at the level. I seconded the 5.8 finish and stemmed up the whole thing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Purple Haze (5.9)
By: Merlin When: Sep 22, 2007

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Comments: Pitch one is definitely 5.8 and the move off the belay starting the second pitch seemed harder than a lot of 5.9s I've done.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Original Fantasy Ridge (5.6)
By: Merlin When: Sep 19, 2007

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Comments: Full dollar value for the 5.6 leader. We climbed the rightmost of the chimneys leading to the crack and it felt like 5.7 I wanted my buddy to hit this to work on his leading and was surprised to find how sustained it was for its rating. I'd say the second pitch might be the finest 5.6 I've ever been on. If you angle left at the top of the crack, a 70 meter rope will just get you to a belay before some 4th class scrambling and a 30-40 foot rappel which drops you off right next to Hiatus on th... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Powell Peak : Northeast Ridge II, Class 4 (4th R)
By: Merlin When: Sep 12, 2007

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Comments: Good route, I did it today. I definitely came across harder than 4th class but wasn't trying to keep it at its easiest. Be prepared for lower fifth class stuff which, coupled with the exposure might not make this the best intro 4th class ridge for newer scramblers.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Elevenmile Dome : Counter Strike (5.5)
By: Merlin When: Jul 29, 2007

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Comments: Easy, fun route but I can't think of a better first lead for someone. Very bolted and safe.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Elevenmile Dome : Phantom Pinnacle (5.7 R)
By: Merlin When: Jul 29, 2007

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Comments: According to one local guidebook author the actual route starts at the base of Moby Grape but angles leftward up a slab until it reaches the flake/roof mentioned here. Done this way it is not remotely R. It's not really a roof either, more like a series of steps with a bulge.

We stayed roped up on the traverse off and threw 4 or 5 pieces of gear into on the traverse to prevent a fatal slip on otherwise easy slab.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Fat Man's Demise (5.7)
By: Merlin When: May 17, 2007

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Comments: Do not continue straight up after the first offwidth chimney, turn left up a crack/chimney or you will find yourself on harder/scarier climbing. Using the description on this page go up the dihedral, turn right at the ledge, go up the chimney, then bear left when you have three choices of chimney/cracks to pick from. Also I used two number 4 and two number 5 Black Diamond C4s on this climb, they definitely came in handy.


Location: CO : Reports Of Possible "New Al...
By: Merlin When: May 10, 2007

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Comments: Well, mine were tested and stamped and at an out of pocket around 625, (and a wife that flat out refuses to allow me to use them) I'm going to try my luck on ebay and replace them with C3s and maybe a couple Friends.

Personally I don't like the idea of you (or any individual) testing them for the community. For yourself, sure, that is smart. My reasoning is this - It simply isn't your responsibility. It only serves to do a job, at our expense, that CCH should be doing and should be doing a l... more >>


Location: CO : Reports Of Possible "New Al...
By: Merlin When: May 10, 2007

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Comments: I supported this company initially but now it is ridiculous. If you go to their website there is a tiny response on the news page to the incident described here. They then put a big old thank you letter from someone whose Alien actually worked.

They seem to be showing a trend of minimizing/ignoring the importance of their units failing. This underwhelming response by a company whose product is designed to keep people from dying is unacceptable. They need to go out of business at this poi... more >>


Location: CO : Reports Of Possible "New Al...
By: Merlin When: May 9, 2007

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Comments: I'm done with them. I love the way they place but life is too short to mess with cams that break in ways they shouldn't. I have a set of ten for sale on this site if anyone is interested.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : The Thing : The East Face (5.7)
By: Merlin When: May 9, 2007

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Comments: A fun route with a nice summit. There is really only 10 feet of 5.7 over a roof (good holds and pro)and the rest is all pretty easy slab climbing. As Tony says in the description, expect some run out. The only place I can think that would be bad for newer leaders would be 40-50 feet between a tree and the block on the second pitch. Fortunately the climbing is easy.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Gambit (5.8)
By: Merlin When: Apr 28, 2007

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Comments: My hands down favorite 5.8 (or 5.7) in Eldo. Also my first 5.8 trad lead. This climb was fantastic. I led every pitch and found the hanging/bulging crack on the fourth to be the crux of the climb. The 5.8 pitch protected well and wasn't too tough if you work your feet.

For pitch 4 I went about 10 or so feet to the right after the offwidth/layback move and pulled up onto a ledge then climbed some crack that seemed pretty burly for a 5.7 and at first traversed left then angled off to the ri... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Ypsilon Mountain : Blitzen Ridge (5.4)
By: Merlin When: Apr 23, 2007

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Comments: About as great a climb as it gets. Use doubles for the rappels and expect sore knees but this is a must do.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : North Ridge (5.6)
By: Merlin When: Apr 23, 2007

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Comments: Don't let the rating dissuade you, there is no 5.7 (or 5.9) on the standard route. The 5.7 rating derives from one fellow who took a different route. I climbed this when I was still scared of 5.6 leads and felt it was easy. There are a couple (and one hugely exposed) moves of 5.6 though followed by a whole lot of easy and well protected climbing.

Fun climb in a beautiful setting but not (IMHO) worth repeating.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Your Basic Lieback (5.6)
By: Merlin When: Apr 20, 2007

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Comments: Absolutely the best lieback for the grade I've found. This route (in my opinion) is the second best 6 at Eldo, right behind the final pitch of Icarus.

If you are comfy then keep a number 2 and a number 3 BD C4 and keep on going and combine with Dihedral above.

Well worth the hike and Star Wars is right next to it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Dihedral (5.7)
By: Merlin When: Apr 20, 2007

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Comments: I'm just breaking into 5.7+/5.8 routes this summer and after a ton of climbing in this range over the last couple months I would say this is harder than other sevens I've been on. It felt harder than Reggae and easier than the crux on Long John Wall so I think a 5.8 might be in line.

The route protects superbly though and you can plug a couple #2 or #3 C4s at the start of the flake then go for it. The hands are bomber and once you start moving the crux is over before you know it.... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : West Overhang (5.7)
By: Merlin When: Apr 20, 2007

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Comments: Fun little roof, seemed so juggy that it would be more of a 5.6 (and I'm definitely under 6') and protected well with hand-sized cams.

I wouldn't aim to do this as a destination climb as it is a one or two move wonder before getting very easy. It is worth doing if you already climbed on the Tower and hit it on the rappel down as escape from Calypso drops you right at its base.

Kevin - Thanks for the chains, I've been up there with people who hate the down climb to the tree.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : The Owl (5.7)
By: Merlin When: Mar 21, 2007

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Comments: I'm with Nick on this one. I plugged a Grey Alien in the crack before the chicken heads then spent 15 minutes thinking about going for it. The move is really easy once you grab them but if you have trouble reaching them it can be intimidating.

The roof at the top is pretty easy though, skip the piton and sink a number 2 BD to your right to keep the rope out of your way, climb up high, stem super wide, jam and arm, and it's over. I personally found grabbing for the chicken heads to be a lot mo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Wind Ridge (5.8)
By: Merlin When: Mar 21, 2007

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Comments: I've lead the 5.8 variation 3 times and followed it once. It runs somewhere in between Reggae and Mescaline for the couple moves up and over the flake so call it a 5.7+,5.8-? The rest of the route is 5.6 except for the two roofy variations after the second belay which are hard for me to rate. Except for the move out of the belay, I generally hate the third pitch and have walked off twice. Too much loose rock up higher on the Wind Tower to be much fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Breezy (5.5)
By: Merlin When: Mar 21, 2007

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Comments: I was out climbing yesterday and ended up doing the first pitch of Wind Ridge, but, having climbed the whole thing too many times, decided to try the second pitch on Breezy out. I have to say I found it to be absolutely stellar. It may be the most fun I have ever had on a 5.5. It has bomber pro, great cracks, and is very nicely sustained for the grade once the climbing starts. I think this route is the epitome of 5.fun.

My friend who follows Eldo 5.8s well enough thought it might be a bit s... more >>


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