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Flower of High Ranking (Suicide)CA


Member Since: Sep 30, 2006
Last Visit: Jun 17, 2012
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Point Rank: # 3,008
Total Points: 161
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 68 | Routes 11 | Areas | Photos 6 | Page Improvements | Comments 21 | Posts 5 | Stars 23 | Ratings 2

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fox Area : The Fox (5.10+)
By: meo When: Nov 26, 2008

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Comments: Never thought I'd get this one but it went down yesterday:)
I climbed it in sections utilizing three semi-rest spots with good foot placements. The gear went like this.... A blue tcu at the bottom before the crack begins then camolots .75 green - 1.0 red - 2.0 yellow - 3.0 blue - 3.0 blue - 4.0 purple just above the dog leg crux and finally a 5.0 I dragged with me the rest of the way. NOTE to myself: Bring one more 5.0 or a 6.0 so won't have to run the last part of OW out.
There was no fixed anc... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : The Black Pearl (5.9)
By: meo When: Oct 17, 2008

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Comments: 5.9 ????
I found the squeeze chimney impassable today. I need to be related to Mr. Herbst to make this climb feel like 5.9 or I must be just a wimp. What a beautiful looking route. This one goes on my Revenge Tick List.
Okay got revenge today. I don't know if it was intended but was able to skip the squeeze chimney by climbing out on the face and following a set of huecos for about 25 feet or so. Stayed in the crack chimney the rest the way. I could give it 5.9 now. But you need 5. effort to ge... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Buttress : Flower of High Rank (5.9)
By: meo When: Sep 6, 2008

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Comments: I stumbled across this classic the first time there. Had no idea what it was until my partner Wendell said it's THE CLASSIC of Suicide Rock. At that point I could not wait to get on it.
Great climbing with a technical start and fantasically exposed finish. After hanging from the top crack I realized it's best to climb above the crack until about half way at which point you can actually crack climb the thing. Pull the roof and your home free.
Don't rob yourself by taking the right crack. Go rig... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Pauline's Pentacle (5.10a)
By: meo When: Aug 22, 2008

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Comments: This route has its good points and bad points. First THE BAD- there is no direct line after initial crack runs out. Route finding is compounded by chossy rock. The top of the first pitch is on the left side of the big ledge you eventually end up in. The second pitch starts out on better rock but you wander around a bit looking for pro. THE GOOD- Up and left is where the money is. I beautiful right slanting crack line that is a joy to climb going at no more than 5.9 Near the top the rock gets cho... more >>


Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Cathedral Rock
By: meo When: Jul 3, 2008

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Comments: An excellent 3 pitch route!
Sustained at the grade. It never stops coming at you especially the 3rd pitch. The route kicked my ass:( Need to get revenge on this one.
Kudos to my RopeGun (Elisabeth)She got it onsite and clean.
A lot of ROCK FALL from the top. (could be from hikers)But
the line seems to be out of the way of the fall line.
Don't forget your helmet.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Fool's Game (5.9)
By: meo When: May 9, 2008

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Comments: My first lead at PF. Why because it is probably the least likely crack at the Forks. I am too much a face climber.
It was GREAT!!!!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Willow Springs South : Sleeper (5.9)
By: meo When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: This is a good area to escape the masses. A great climb with a good crux. This one will get your attention. It is possible to climb and rap with a 70m rope.
The Dean scored on this one.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : The Walker Spur (5.10b/c R)
By: meo When: Mar 15, 2008

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Comments: YES!!!!!!
It was one beautiful route!
I found the bolt on the first pitch very smart. Without it could be a disaster to a leader fall. Also it enables one to do the harder more exposed move on the left side instead of the 5.8 version described in the Handring guide.
Awesome positions and good crack climbing. We rapped off the anchors 20 feet right of the belay ledge on top of 2nd pitch. The third pitch looked short and uninteresting.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Peyote Power (5.9) : Photo
By: meo When: Nov 19, 2007

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Comments: Wendel The Dean dancing up pitch 2


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Hot Flash (5.8)
By: meo When: Nov 8, 2007

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Comments: Good little route:)
Remember to step left when starting the sixth pitch this is the best pitch on the route and is the beautiful varnished crack pictured in the new guide book. All the pitches above six are blah. Not worth it unless of course your peak freak.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Only the Good Die Young (5.11c)
By: meo When: Oct 21, 2007

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Comments: This was a great route. First pitch a bit akward to start. All the cruxes we're protected very well.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Edge of the Sun (5.10)
By: meo When: Oct 21, 2007

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Comments: The 3rd pitch is one of the best I've done. The dean said it was one of the best pitches he's ever done.
Great face climbing with equally great exposure. The first pitch wanders a bit. I would not try and combine the 1st and 2nd.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : Amazing Grace (5.9+ PG13)
By: meo When: May 20, 2007

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Comments: A great route if you can get by the first 3 bolts "all of which need to be replaced" then you can protect the rest of the route. I placed 2 med. nuts and had doubles of mid-size Camalots to #2. Save a #2 for the final move to the anchor. This route may seem harder for it's rating while on lead. Have a good time face climbing and doing liebacks on smeary footholds. The anchor has 1 good bolt and 2 (replacable) old bolts. Rappel with 2 ropes or 1 70m.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : Breakaway (5.10c)
By: meo When: May 20, 2007

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Comments: Instead of climbing the first pitch up and right following the bolts climb up and left after clipping the third bolt. Run it out (easy climbing) to a large pedestal just left of second pitch. You can set up a nice comfortable belay here with camalots (2 #2's and a #3) This makes for easier and safer access to second pitch.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : La Cierta Edad (5.10d)
By: meo When: May 16, 2007

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Comments: Hmm I must be missing something for I thought the wide crack in pitch 4 was the crux moves. If you thought it was 5.8 then where do you believe the crux moves to be?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : La Cierta Edad (5.10d)
By: meo When: May 4, 2007

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Comments: I found having a # 5 Camalot for the wide cracks we're very useful. Pitch 4 the consensus was 5.10 b Maybe that's because we had a #5 cam. Just the same the best pitches we're #2, a fun chimney and #3, awesome positions while crack climbing and stemming. Great Exposure and a super safe route. I'll give it 3 stars. Thanks for replacing those bolts! The rappels went without a problem.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Winter Heat Wall : Winter Heat (5.11)
By: meo When: Apr 29, 2007

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Comments: The middle of the route is a bit sparse on good pro. Where it starts to get thin could be better protected with set of ballnutz or you need a good set of B--ls


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : Greased Lightning (5.10a R)
By: meo When: Apr 15, 2007

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Comments: The length of this climb is about 170 Ft. and the pro is mostly small wires and or cams with some doubled mid size camalots (.5) Take some/all small aliens or similar size cams. You'll need them. Great climbing positions thin face moves and smearing. I used a full set of C3's numerous small wires and Camalots from #2 on down. I also had 2 red link cams. "They are the greatest!" I went through 15 runners and wished I had more.


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Purblind Pillar (5.8)
By: meo When: Jan 5, 2007

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Comments: I enjoyed this route for the beautiful exposure and the solid rock at the moderate rating. I thought pitch 3 was only about 100 ft. no where near the 150 ft stated to the belay. Also you could easily use up to a # 4 Camalot on picth 4. It took three of us 9 hours car to car. Over all I'd say it is probably the best climb on the Angle Food Wall:)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : The Misunderstanding (5.9)
By: meo When: Nov 7, 2006

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Comments: These two pitches can be done in one and you can just reach the (easy to downclimb) start with a 70 meter rope from the top. You can easily place four to five #3 Camalots two 3.5s and two #4s or you'll need to keep bringing the pro with you.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Lost Creek Canyon : Bighorn Buttress (5.10+ R)
By: meo When: Nov 7, 2006

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Comments: This route is definitely spicey. The bolts are in or near the cruxes but the condition of them are not the greatest. The rappel from the top is off two fixed pieces and numerous webbing. The next rappel is off two bolts one of which should be replaced. (All the bolts should be replaced). The last rappel is off one bolt and one piton. Still a very enjoyable line with a sweet short approach.