Contributed Comments |
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Bedrock : Stoneage Struggle (5.10b)
By: Max When: Jul 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best routes at East A.
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Punta Magna (5.11c PG13)
By: Max When: Jul 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Two pitches? More like one stellar rope strecher with a 60.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Wright's Lake : Main Wall : The Fin (5.11c R)
By: Max When: Jun 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Four stars for sure! Heady lead.
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Location: CO : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : West Side : Hymanizer (5.10d)
By: Max When: Sep 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is called the Hymanizer.
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Location: CO : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : East Side : Mexican Burrito (5.11)
By: Max When: Sep 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another Simmons contribution.
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Location: CO : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : East Side : Brady's Route (5.12a)
By: Max When: Sep 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is called Space Odessy, and was at the time of the first ascent harder, before a key hold at the crux broke and got bigger.
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Crime & Punishment (5.11a)
By: Max When: Jan 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crime and Punishment has been sanitized by the addition of several bolts (by Tim I assume), most recently at the start. It is now another excellent and safe route and not the scare fest it was ten years ago. Have fun!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Coyote Calling (5.11+)
By: Max When: Mar 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A superb route, as good as any in Castle Valley. The first pitch is a difficult onsight but well protected with a couple #0 TCUs. Every pitch is sustained, steep and engaging. Ari's route description is pretty spot on for gear and route beta.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Burning Inside (5.11b)
By: Max When: Oct 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun route, and an excellent way to bypass the hordes on Kor-Ingalls. Exiting the slot on the first pitch is hard and the first few face moves above will get the blood pumping. Second and third pitch combine nicely. The last pitch is a wee bit sketchy, especially passing a completely detached block that wants to fall directly on people at the base of the tower. We found one #4 and one #5 camalot to be plenty of wide gear, even for linking the second and third pitch (a @POUN... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : The Cirque of the Climbable... : Corner Route (5.12-)
By: Max When: May 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would highly recommend this superb route. Mostly moderate climbing and only a couple minutes from the car, it's a wonder this route doesn't get done more often. The traversing first pitch is really fun and should definitely not be by-passed for the lame bolt ladder. The third and fourth pitches link up nicely for one of the better 5.10+ pitches around. The crux pitch is very reasonable, with only a short section of 5.12; very onsightable. One #4 Camalot is plently and you ... more >>
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : The Hallucinogen Wall (5.10 A3+ R)
By: Max When: May 28, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Word is Jared Ogden and Ryan Nelson freed route around May 21,22, and 23rd, with a little dry-tooling on the crux pitch.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Comic Relief (5.10)
By: Max When: May 25, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 5.10+ direct start is great and easily combines with the next pitch. Do this start, the Black Corner, and the Lightening Bolt and you have quite a bit more sustained climbing.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : The Checkerboard Wall : Checkerboard Wall (5.10)
By: Max When: May 25, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did the route in three pitches. With a little simul-climbing you can easily reach the beginning of the 5.9 finger crack/face. From there you can do a long pitch to the shallow dihedral up high. One last pitch to the ledge. I thought the crux was the short lieback at the beginning of the long pitch, right after making the tricky face moves Josh described. Make sure you stay in the gully when hiking out. It's easy to get sucked onto some easy rocks on the left, but they don't go where you... more >>
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : The Scenic Cruise (5.10d)
By: Max When: May 25, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Charle's route description is quite good. Couple of points: combining pitches 4 & 5 isn't that bad. While these pitches are pumpy, there are quite a few rests to recoup energy. On pitch 8, I wouldn't recommend the crack on the right through the nasty bush. The crack on the left has got a little shit in it, but will allow you to make it to the top of the flake in one pitch. Prudent runner use will alleviate rope drag.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Journey Home (5.10-)
By: Max When: May 12, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just another comment that the first pitch isn't that bad. It's only a little heady because its the first pitch and you're not yet in the climbing groove. After the first twenty feet, you get a good piece of gear. The gear placement in the pegmatite (green alien) is bomber. I definitely felt the crux of the climb was the fourth pitch (as described in Robbie's guide).
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