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Member Since: Oct 23, 2007
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 560
Total Points: 1,093
Last Year: 100
Last 30 Days: 14
75 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Max Tepfer been climbing?










Contributions


All 409 | Routes 52 | Areas 6 | Photos 79 | Page Improvements | Comments 88 | Posts 118 | Stars 63 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : Atlantis (5.11+ PG13)
By: Max Tepfer When: 18 hours ago

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Comments: Single set felt a bit on the thin side... You can definitely bring bigger gear for P1, but then you're trying to place it in the hardest part of the pitch... Pitches 1 and 2 link nicely.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer
By: Max Tepfer When: 18 hours ago

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Comments: Descent with a 70m is fairly straight-forward. Rap to the Sorcerer-Charlatan notch and then east down the weakness. There's a two bolt anchor about 20' below the notch and 70 barely reaches. Tie knots!


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Spook Book (5.10+ R)
By: Max Tepfer When: 2 days ago

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Comments: I'd agree with the above comment that P2 is the crux. Also the only pitch that really needs any amount of RPs (and you'll be fine with a single set...) The 'crux' pitch is pretty mellow, well protected enduro climbing with no distinct crux. (Despite what the description here would lead you to believe.)

Also, the fixed pin is gone and a good marker for where to belay after the 5.8 (besides 'when the climbing gets hard') is at the perfect foot ledge at the top of the flakes.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles
By: Max Tepfer When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Road update: As of Fall, 2014 it was easily (albeit slowly) navigable with a heavily laden, low-clearence, 2WD. If you have any experience on rough roads in small cars, you should be fine. As has been said, the worst is at the end and you could camp sooner if you had to.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : Romantic Warrior (5.12b)
By: Max Tepfer When: 5 days ago

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Comments: +1 for linking the BOD pitches. I haven't done it, but it seems like the way. The belay is at a terrible stance, the first move off the anchor is hard with un-inspiring gear, and the pitches are super short anyway... That being said, seems like it would definitely increase the difficulty to put the two together...


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Charlatan : Spooky (5.9)
By: Max Tepfer When: 5 days ago

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Comments: #3 and #4 C4s easily protect the OW with some bumping. The climbing above is some of the most fun you'll have anywhere. Sadly, you have to climb the OW to get there...


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : The Don Juan Wall (5.11b)
By: Max Tepfer When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Pitches feel pretty short (like on a lot of Needles climbs...) Linking 2 and 3 eliminates a semi-hanging stance and makes the pitch length feel a little more normal. Also, no brass necessary and the 'difficult to protect' 5.10 on pitch 4 protected easily. Gear wasn't always at your chest when you wanted it there, but it was never unsafe or devious.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Dark Star (5.11d)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: I've only been on it once, and can't speak too much to the grade, but almost sent first go and I don't usually do that on 12a. Also, wasn't Sunshine upgraded due to a key foothold breaking? (I think that scar on the left wall below/near the crux) I'm all for keeping rock climbing hard...


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Bad Finger Extended (BFE) (5.11-)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: In addition to the mantel being heads up, make sure to runner your gear! I didn't and all my little off-set wires fell out before I pulled the move...


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Snake Rock : Lords of Karma (5.12c)
By: Max Tepfer When: May 23, 2014

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Comments: So, Jon, what you're saying is that Go Dog is harder than Churning or Kings? Hmmm...


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Northern End : Where's Noah Vibbert (5.11-)
By: Max Tepfer When: May 23, 2014

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Comments: Pretty sure you'll want gear bigger than 1" for this. It's been years since I've been on it, but I'm quite sure the first half is 0.75s. Great route!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Smith Rock Group : Northeast Face : Sky Ridge (5.8 R)
By: Max Tepfer When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: See Wherever I May Roam description for rappel beta. To walk off, hike and scramble up weaknesses/gullies to the south eventually passing the towers of the Smith Rock Group and following a rough trail through the grass along the top of the formation in a southerly direction. When you can see a continuous slope to the west, turn right (west) and descend towards the Crooked eventually ending up on the trail that runs underneath WIMR.

hillmap.com/m/ag1zfmhpbGxtYXAt...... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Shoes of the Fisherman (5.11b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: Yes, there is a little bit of rat urine and bird shit on this route. That being said, this is by far the longest and the best hand crack at Smith and deserves to get climbed with much more regularity. This thing feels more like climbing granite than climbing tuff. +1 that the rock in the last 10' is of poorer quality, but it would probably clean up if it got traffic...


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Hardly Wallbanger (5.10c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: Didn't really think this route was all that it's cracked up to be. Sharp and kind of loose. Definitely a lot of steep, juggy climbing, but the whole gorge is full of steep, juggy climbing.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Prusik Peak : Der Sportsman (5.11+) : Photo
By: Max Tepfer When: Jan 30, 2014

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Comments: I can't speak for the people who placed the bolts, (I assume Brooke, but am not really sure...) but I was psyched to clip them. They're right when you're most pumped and, while there are definitely good gear placements there, they're small, specific, and difficult to see and/or place from the lie-back that you end up in. This would be a proud on-sight skipping the bolts.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Monument Area : The Monument : Abraxas (5.12-)
By: Max Tepfer When: Dec 8, 2013

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Comments: Note: The FFA info in the Watt's guide is vague and only given for distinct pitches. It's unclear exactly who freed the line in its entirety first, but I suspect it was Thomas Emde. (credited w/P3 in 2001) The crux was freed in in 1975 by Wayne Arrington and Ken Currens. Lastly, I gave it 3 stars largely due to its position, history, reputation and the Tombstone Crack. I'm sure many (my partners included) will find it far less appealing and have no interest in ever repeating it.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9)
By: Max Tepfer When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: One #4 is plenty w/bumping. Plenty of #3 placements on the 1st half of the OW. P1 and P2 link nicely as do P3 and P4.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Hot Flash (5.8)
By: Max Tepfer When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: FWI: Maybe I missed it, but didn't see specific descent beta outlined above and the Handren Guide's beta is not fully accurate for the option that doesn't merge back w/Lotta Ball's descent. As is stated in the guidebook, descend the gully to the east 300-400 vert until an obvious rap anchor on the left below a large pine tree. Make single rope rappels until you're above a large low-angle slab-complex/amphitheater. Two double ropes into this will get you to the bottom of the amphitheater and ... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : Sheer Lunacy (Free) (5.12b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: +1 that the first '5.12' pitch is not 5.12. Especially when compared to the 12b up high. The first pitch has no single move harder than V2 and has a lot of rest and easier climbing. Honestly the 11a pitch after has a harder move (but only one) than anything on the pitch below. 11c/d seems about right, but I wouldn't disagree with 11c.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Smith Rock Group : Northeast Face : Sky Chimney (5.7)
By: Max Tepfer When: Oct 25, 2013

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Comments: To avoid bombing your partner and others with gravel atop P3, (the last real pitch) clip the bolt high on the right side of the ledge (keeps your rope off the gravel and acts as a directional) and carefully walk the edge of the ledge to the left. Most, if not all, of the gravel is uphill of the edge and is frightening. Staying low will keep you on solid rock all the way to cracks (small to medium gear) on the left.


Location: OR : Willamette Valley : Moolack : Lost Art (5.10c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: False. I've descended this many, many times with 60m ropes of varying makes and models. W/stretch it just makes it.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Colchuck Balanced Rock : Let it Burn (5.12-)
By: Max Tepfer When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: A few thoughts: the rack beta posted here's a bit wonky. I think he's trying to say single #2 and 3 when he writes single #1 and 2. We brought a #3 and found it valuable. As far as the climbing, it's a stellar route. I'd read somewhere the word gymnastic used to describe the climbing. Tack committing on and you get the picture. It's killer.

Pitch 2 is incredible. Hands down best pitch on the route.
Pitch 3 is also really good. My partner stepped right a little ear... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Red Wall : Orgasmophoria (5.10c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: I literally just climbed this route and have gone up and down Super Slab every way imaginable so let me clarify some myths here in the comments:

"I personally think that disaster is a bit much for the walk off. The gulley has maybe two moves of 5.7 climbing as you top out the slab, then your hiking again." Paul is spot on. You could even protect these moves if you wanted to with small to medium wires or cams. NBD.

If rappelling: "...bring 2 60m ropes and rappel Super Slab." Not true. I just... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : The May Fly (5.12+)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jun 28, 2013

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Comments: My only tid-bits to add:
The best line at Trout. Probably one of the best at the grade anywhere.
The whipper's not really that big. Just sideways. If they were bolts, you wouldn't think twice. Think 5.12 finger crack to V4 with a techy 5.11- finish.
Possibly the most perfectly named route in the world.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Steelhead (5.11)
By: Max Tepfer When: May 22, 2013

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Comments: More specifically, two people have ripped gear and hit the ground. Both were basically okay. (which is surprising given the landing!) I fell on every move of the first 30' of the climb before I sent and never had an issue. Adventure-spoiling gear beta below:

An RP and ballnut inches apart go in before first not-easy move. A green c3 (or two or three-it's been awhile) after that and a blue before the overlap. A medium wire above the lip perfectly protects the crux. All on the left crack.


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