Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Oct 23, 2007
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact Max Tepfer

Max Tepfer
is a member of
Point Rank: # 395
Total Points: 1,585
Last Year: 512
Last 30 Days: 1
82 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Max Tepfer been climbing?










Contributions


All 558 | Routes 83 | Areas 11 | Photos 98 | Page Improvements | Comments 100 | Posts 143 | Stars 118 | Ratings 5
Page 1 of 4.  1  2  3  4   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : The Caning (5.12b)
By: Max Tepfer When: May 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Expect a tough clip at the 5th bolt!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall : Super Slab (5.6)
By: Max Tepfer When: Apr 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This route is easily descended with a 70 (or 60 if I remember correctly) as described by PhillT above. If you're building anchors, then you're doing something wrong. (either you rapped from the wrong anchors to begin with or you missed an intermediate station) Remember, you don't descend the actual line of ascent for the upper half of the descent.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Chocolate Factory : Butane Junky (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 28, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This climb is really good despite the reputation. You just have to like slab climbing to appreciate it. Feels like a more secure version of Watt's Tots at Smith Rock. I thought it felt a little sandy for 12a.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Solarium : Mirage (5.12c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 28, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A standout line at a standout crag. I felt like the crux was getting to 4th bolt. The climbing to and just after the second is pretty casual. (though there's an angry little move exiting the hueco)


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Long Wall : The Gift (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 28, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This thing has incredible climbing. (though height dependent) I'm 5'9" with a pretty neutral wingspan and everything felt just about right, but my partner who's a few inches shorter than me had a way harder time. Seems like the move at the 4th bolt can be (and is?) done a few different ways. Hand traversing right seemed easier than trying to go straight up.

The bolts definitely could use some attention. Right now they're all expansion bolts (excepting the drilled angle at the start. Why is... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Monster (5.11+)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 7, 2015

view comment >>
Comments:
  • *Full Beta Spraydown Alert!*

Right hand thumbs up in the first (and really only) good lock off the block. Oppose this with your right foot on a small half-moon divot on the right wall. (usually a little black from shoe rubber) Palm the left arete at hip height and hand-foot match with your left foot. Left hand up to the crimp just left of the arete. Jam right toe in the crack. (exactly where is height dependent) Toss for the next good lock with your right hand thumbs up.

From this poin... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (a) Picnic Lunch Wall : Free Lunch (5.10a PG13)
By: Max Tepfer When: Feb 20, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The gear beta above is pretty much spot on. While there's looseness everywhere, really only the first pitch and the third pitch suck to climb. Higher up the rock that you have to touch improves dramatically. It's worth noting that the 3rd pitch is a traverse with some climbing up and down. In hindsight, this seems obvious, but I missed it despite reading the beta above and in the Watt's guide.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Regular Northwest Face of H... (5.12a/b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jan 14, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: As of 2013 the bad bolt on the traverse into the Higbee Hedral was still there.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Heinous Cling (5.12c) : Photo
By: Max Tepfer When: Dec 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Actually, definitely Heinous Cling.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Suzuki (5.10+)
By: Max Tepfer When: Dec 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Yep. Probably a tad harder if you ignore the left crack. Makes for a nice 11-ish variation. (a good second stage warmup if you're getting on a fingercrack after) Honestly, it feels more straightforward to me. (albeit more powerful) Pretty sure the left crack has been contrived at 12-/12ish too.


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Catalonia : Siurana : ... : Viagraman (5.11c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Dec 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The latest guidebook (O'Donovan/Andrada) calls this 7a. Definitely soft at that grade.


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Catalonia : Siurana : ... : El prado del rey (5.12c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Dec 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This route feels much more enduro than the far more bouldery Mandragora. (of the same grade) No move is distinctly hard, but the unrelenting movement stays with you to the chains.


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Catalonia : Siurana : ... : Remena Nena (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: Dec 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Not 12a. (but really, really good!)


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Catalonia : Siurana : ... : Mandragora (5.12c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Dec 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Had no problems getting to the ground (just) w/2 different 70s. The midway anchor described above is gone. This thing is mega! Must-do.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : Link-up: Free for All/Dod'... (5.10c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Oct 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: As to the gear discussion above: I found 1 #4 for to be perfect for walking and back protecting on the P2 OW. Also, why on earth is the anchor at the base of this pitch (P2) at a hanging stance 2 meters above a huge ledge? It makes absolutely no sense...

Lastly, we got off in 3 single rope raps with a 60 and no shenanigans. To do this it was super helpful to forgo the hanging stance mentioned above and rap 2 meters lower/climber's left to the bolts with the tat/rings at the detached ... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Spook Book (5.10+ R)
By: Max Tepfer When: Oct 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: No Josh, I've actually used them a lot all over and I think that they're great. Sorry if I communicated otherwise. You just happened to have written descriptions for almost all the routes I climbed here and I felt that I had some useful beta/perspective to add...


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : Atlantis (5.11+ PG13)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Single set felt a bit on the thin side... You can definitely bring bigger gear for P1, but then you're trying to place it in the hardest part of the pitch... Pitches 1 and 2 link nicely.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Descent with a 70m is fairly straight-forward. Rap to the Sorcerer-Charlatan notch and then east down the weakness. There's a two bolt anchor about 20' below the notch and 70 barely reaches. Tie knots!


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Spook Book (5.10+ R)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I'd agree with the above comment that P2 is the crux. It's also the only pitch that really needs any amount of RPs (and you'll be fine with a single set...) The 'crux' pitch is pretty mellow, well protected enduro climbing with no distinct crux. (Despite what the description here would lead you to believe.)

Also, the fixed pin is gone and a good marker for where to belay after the 5.8 (besides 'when the climbing gets hard') is at the perfect foot ledge at the top of the flakes.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Road update: As of Fall, 2014 it was easily (albeit slowly) navigable with a heavily laden, low-clearence, 2WD. If you have any experience on rough roads in small cars, you should be fine. As has been said, the worst is at the end and you could camp sooner if you had to.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : Romantic Warrior (5.12b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: +1 for linking the BOD pitches. I haven't done it, but it seems like the way. The belay is at a terrible stance, the first move off the anchor is hard with un-inspiring gear, and the pitches are super short anyway... That being said, seems like it would definitely increase the difficulty to put the two together...


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Charlatan : Spooky (5.9)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: #3 and #4 C4s easily protect the OW with some bumping. The climbing above is some of the most fun you'll have anywhere. Sadly, you have to climb the OW to get there...


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : The Don Juan Wall (5.11b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Pitches feel pretty short (like on a lot of Needles climbs...) Linking 2 and 3 eliminates a semi-hanging stance and makes the pitch length feel a little more normal. Also, no brass necessary and the 'difficult to protect' 5.10 on pitch 4 protected easily. Gear wasn't always at your chest when you wanted it there, but it was never unsafe or devious.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Dark Star (5.11d)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I've only been on it once, and can't speak too much to the grade, but almost sent first go and I don't usually do that on 12a. Also, wasn't Sunshine upgraded due to a key foothold breaking? (I think that scar on the left wall below/near the crux) I'm all for keeping rock climbing hard...


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Bad Finger Extended (BFE) (5.11-)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: In addition to the mantel being heads up, make sure to runner your gear! I didn't and all my little off-set wires fell out before I pulled the move...


Page 1 of 4.  1  2  3  4   Next>   Last>>
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!