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Member Since: Nov 7, 2010
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Matthias Lang


Point Rank: # 4,163
Total Points: 102
Last Year: 25
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Matthias Lang been climbing?










Contributions


All 301 | Routes 4 | Areas 1 | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 32 | Posts 18 | Stars 126 | Ratings 117
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : Nicole's Corner (5.10a)
By: Matthias Lang When: Sep 4, 2012

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Comments: Nice route but I have a couple of notes:
Thought the end was the crux and not the beginning.
In the middle section I found the position of the bolts a bit odd, meaning that hard moves came right before the bolts. Once clipped, an easier section followed. Therefore I think 5.9 leaders, that think about skipping the start, would probably not feel comfortable on this route.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Clandestine Wall : Wiretap (5.10c PG13)
By: Matthias Lang When: Aug 19, 2012

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Comments: Damn, you're right! For some reason I always read Wiretrap in the guide book. Thanks.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Clandestine Wall : Wiretap (5.10c PG13)
By: Matthias Lang When: Aug 18, 2012

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Comments: Was pretty scary for me. Did not bring along anything bigger that a #3 and remember cursing at least at two spots where a bigger cam would have fit into the grove. Next time i bring along 2 #4 and 1 #5 and figure out on rappel which ones to use. But I do think even with the bigger pieces this deserves a PG13 rating. Besides the mental part I also found it technically harder than Skinwalker, but not quite as good.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : Tombstone : West Face Direct (5.8)
By: Matthias Lang When: Jul 3, 2012

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Comments: I found the Schein variation way fun. The roofs look intimidating but trust the rating, going through the roof is really not that hard. Thought is was one of the coolest sections of 5.8 in the sandias. Unfortunately the awesome part is fairly short. The same holds for the sweet chickenheads on the first pitch.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ...
By: Matthias Lang When: Jun 26, 2012

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Comments: Went to Eagle Canyon this weekend. Coming from the south I thought the road was in good condition (took the road only once before). I've never been to Eagle Canyon before the fire so I can't compare how it was before the fire, but now that all the green is gone from the trees the climbs wont get shade anymore till late afternoon (guess around 3). I did only one climb (old wave) and it was not enjoyable. All pockets were filled with sand/dirt and the whole crag seemed to be coverd i... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : Aviary Ort Overhangs (5.9)
By: Matthias Lang When: Jun 10, 2012

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Comments: A couple of notes:
I agree with Monomaniac, the 1st pitch crux is pretty tame for a 5.9 OW.
2nd pitch crux is short, but probably not 5.9 and you will be above the last (hopefully) solid piece (piton).
The third pitch is really not worth doing unless you want to top out. There are however older bolts on top that make a rap from the top possible.

We were planning on doing the standard descent via south ridge but the part from the notch to the south summit didn't look that easy and is very expose... more >>


Location: International : Europe : Germany : Frankenjura : Weißenstein
By: Matthias Lang When: May 19, 2012

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Comments: One of the best crags here with a high concentration of classics. Unfortunately it is also very popular and most of the holds are polished which makes the footwork a bit sketchy.


Location: International : Europe : Germany : Frankenjura : Weißenstein : Panische Zeiten (5.11a)
By: Matthias Lang When: May 19, 2012

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Comments: Sweet route. Hardest part is definitely to figure out which jugs to grab. Some of the obvious ones are crap, some hidden/small ones are way better than they look.


Location: International : Europe : Germany : Frankenjura : Röthelfels : ... : Götterbogen (5.10c)
By: Matthias Lang When: May 14, 2012

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Comments: Very short but a must-do in the area.


Location: International : Europe : Germany : Frankenjura : Röthelfels : ... : Gerades Geiereck (Direct Vu... (5.9)
By: Matthias Lang When: May 14, 2012

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Comments: Awkward to warm up on. Feels like a real trad climb. I was glad to have some tricams for after the last bolt.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Yucca Flower Tower : Rawhide (5.10c)
By: Matthias Lang When: May 5, 2012

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Comments: As the description says, I found the beginning very strenuous. Gear has to be placed from strenuous positions and no feet make for some insecure smearing moves. Nevertheless it's a nice classic. I loved the finger-locks on the beginning of the second pitch.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Middle Rock : Cowboy Bob's Chickenhead De... (5.10)
By: Matthias Lang When: Apr 23, 2012

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Comments: An amazing climb. I wouldn't consider myself a solid 5.10 trad leader and was pondering a long time weather I should get on this one, since it does look pretty committing (Bienvenidos was the only 5.10 I did here before). I'm glad I did it. As Bob says, protection is there it is just a bit unorthodox, furthermore the big chicken-heads higher up provide excellent opportunities to de-pump.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Hellboy (5.8+)
By: Matthias Lang When: Apr 2, 2012

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Comments: Only went to the first anchor but I didn't think it was any easier than Post Moderate.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Alcohol Wall South : Spinal Spasms (5.11)
By: Matthias Lang When: Apr 2, 2012

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Comments: I thought it was more fun than Public Intoxication although a little less sustained.


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : El Malpais : Crack of Heraclitus (5.12- R)
By: Matthias Lang When: Jul 17, 2011

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Comments: I drove by this crack today. Looks amazing. The Jackson guide talks about a 3-drilled-angle belay after traversing the big roof, which make a rap after the second pitch possible. Can anyone tell me if this anchor is still there and if, what condition it is in?
Cheers,
ML


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: How Bad is Beer??General ClimbingMatthias LangJul 15, 2014
re: Gear left during Castleton rescue 10/27Southern Utah DesertsMatthias LangOct 29, 2012
re: carrying rope 2Climbing Gear DiscussionMatthias LangOct 8, 2012
re: carrying rope 2Climbing Gear DiscussionMatthias LangOct 8, 2012
re: Suggestions for beginner Trad in Sandias?Arizona & New MexicoMatthias LangOct 8, 2012
re: Something that fits like a TC ProClimbing Gear DiscussionMatthias LangOct 3, 2012
re: Sandia Super Select ??Arizona & New MexicoMatthias LangSep 30, 2012
re: Snakes in cracks???Arizona & New MexicoMatthias LangAug 23, 2012
re: Resoles in Santa Fe?Arizona & New MexicoMatthias LangAug 21, 2012
Resoles in Santa Fe?Arizona & New MexicoMatthias LangAug 19, 2012
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