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Sticking the pinch on the V5 variation. self portrait.


Member Since: Nov 20, 2008
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact matthewWallace


Point Rank: # 44
Total Points: 7,368
Last Year: 441
Last 30 Days: 55
35 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has matthewWallace been climbing?










Contributions


All (3599) | Routes (281) | Areas (48) | Photos (552) | Comments (1072) | Posts (464) | Stars (763) | Ratings (419)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Rines Hill : Old Route (5.10)
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 30, 2012

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Comments: Does this mantel onto the dirty ledge right above the bolt?


Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Rines Hill
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 30, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for the info! I will post the other routes soon, as for the other areas I have hiked out to Mt. Molly and Longstack and am eagerly awaiting climbing at both!

I have climb all the route at Rines under 5.10 now and I have to say my favorites are Casual Crack, Layback Cracks, Right Ramp (for the spice a the beginning;) )


Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Rines Hill : Casual Crack (5.9)
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: This is my favorite sub 5.10 route here, the climbing up the crack is really enjoyable and well protected. The top out has a nice pucker factor but is very fun!


Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Rines Hill : Dirty Corner (5.8)
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: If this was more sustained it would be a very good route, however the two foot ledges you encounter every 10ish feet does detract from the climb. The climbing itself is very fun though!


Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Rines Hill : Right Ramp (5.8)
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: I climbed this route and also feel it deserves a PG-13 rating at the very least. The only gear I could get when climbing onto the first two ledges was a very small brass nut and when you mantel onto the second ledge you have lot of rope out and a fall from there would have you hitting one of the many ledges below and if the brass nut doesn't hold (which it probably wouldn't)you will end up on the ground.

With that said, I think this is a really good route that has a nice mental aspect to it, ... more >>


Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice : The Big Wall : It's a Good Day to Die (5.7+)
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 22, 2012

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Comments: What is the dangerous part? the roof might fall off?


Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Rines Hill : Flake Route (5.10)
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 21, 2012

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Comments: is this just to the left of fat crack?


Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Rines Hill
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 21, 2012

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Comments: Cool, I climbed them he other day and I plan on adding the to the database, if anyone knows the names please let me know!


Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : Holderness Corner : Holderness Arete (5.10b)
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 21, 2012

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Comments: If there is in fact a new bolt here, it is just a matter of time before someone removes it. I really hope nobody added a bolt...


Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Rines Hill
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 19, 2012

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Comments: Anyone know what the two routes to the left of moss face and right of standard route are? The left of the two has one bolt and the right f the two has two bolts... The left hand one has a fixed anchor. Any help will be great help!


Location: NH : Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Cafe au Lait (5.6)
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 12, 2012

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Comments: I have been doing a lot of 'green-pointing' lately (sport routes on trad gear), and I must say this route protects fairly well on gear. The first 15 feet really only has one place for natural pro but from the 15 foot point and above it protects very well.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Crow's Nest : The Trad's Nest (5.9 PG13)
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 12, 2012

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Comments: I climbed this one gear the other day and I agree it does protect very well. And is a fun short trad lead.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Crow's Nest : The Little Mermaid (5.6)
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 12, 2012

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Comments: This route protects fairly well with trad gear, can be a bit spicy on the slab section if you miss the one opportunity for gear.


Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Jigsaw Puzzle (5.9+ PG13)
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 12, 2012

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Comments: Bradley I clipped from and undercling on the large rock blade and reached up to the fixed anchor. I stopped climbing there because it is a logical place for the route to stop and it is where people will stop because of where the anchors are placed.


Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Jigsaw Puzzle (5.9+ PG13)
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 7, 2012

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Comments: I climbed this free to the pin and bolt anchor on Friday 8/3/2012.

I feel it goes at 5.8 to the current anchor. If the route gets extended it will become harder pulling over the overlap by the current anchor. The route is dirty right now now and gets one star. I didnt not find any PG13 climbing and it deserves 1 star.

Should I post a new route description for the free route?


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Warmup Area : Scarred for Life (V0+) : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 30, 2012

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Comments: Scarred For Life climbs the left arete.


Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Center : Reasons to be Cheerful (5.9)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 26, 2012

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Comments: This route deserves way more traffic than it gets! If it were at an area that had more people interested in trad it would be super popular. Great moves, awesome position and excellent gear! It is a must do for anyone with trad gear at Rumney!


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Mt. Willard : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 19, 2012

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Comments: This is one of the best views anywhere, its certainly my favorite!


Location: NH : Rumney : Höhe Hinterland : Wünderkind (5.11c)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 16, 2012

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Comments: I second you opinion Jeffrey, the history he has provided has been very interesting, and it would be sad to lose all the valuable info!.


Location: NH : Rumney
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 16, 2012

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Comments: Hey guys, it is really good to hear that the climber is fine and a tragedy was adverted. Up until now I have kept my opinion out of the fixed draw debate because I don't climb the routes with fixed draws, I'm not strong enough. However, I do not see the difference between fixed quickdraws and perma-draws. Quickdraws are fixed on many of the climbs in the .12 and up range. So why not equip them with a safer option? I have never seen anyone remove the draws on any of the routes that are currently ... more >>


Location: NH : Attitash Crag
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 9, 2012

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Comments: Jim thanks for the input. I have not walked out to the cliff, I was just reading about it and it made it seem like the OW was a obvious natural feature that should be climbed and was curious. Thanks for the info, I might still give it a go if I get out that way. When I get out there and if I get on it I will share my experience. Thanks


Location: NH : Attitash Crag
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 9, 2012

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Comments: HAs anybody climbed the Off-width the guidebook mentions?


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : open project (5.12+)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 3, 2012

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Comments: Are you going to leave both of the lined bolted or remove the bolts in the left hand variation, so there is not a cluster of bolts?


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Fisher Block : Fisher Fissure (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 23, 2012

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Comments: I have done the moves from a true sit start, I just have not linked them yet, it will be a wonderful climb when completed, compressiony moves and much fun!


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : Spragueasorus Boulder (aka ... : Nowhere Man (V7)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 23, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for the better description Christian, I made it the description for the route!


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