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Photo by Marisa Fienup.


Member Since: Feb 18, 2006
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 51
Total Points: 7,224
Last Year: 410
Last 30 Days: 31
470 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Matthew Fienup been climbing?










Contributions


All 2012 | Routes 173 | Areas 32 | Photos 915 | Page Improvements | Comments 439 | Posts 40 | Stars 328 | Ratings 85
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles
By: Matthew Fienup When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Special thanks to fighter pilot Ian S. for sharing his stories and the link to this video. To see the low-elevation fly-over of the Needles and Hermit Spire, check out 7:30 and 8:32




Needles fly-by
Needles fly-by



Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro
By: Matthew Fienup When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Someone has swiped Fixe Ring Anchors from atop two different routes at San Ysidro and replaced them with old-school SMC bolt hangers. A cute little joke?...retaliation for the bolts added to Vanishing Flakes??

In any case, you'll need to leave hardware behind or walk off, until the rap-hangers have been replaced.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Vanishing Flakes (5.11a)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 14, 2015

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Comments: Crazy, crazy. The bolts added to VF are hardware-store variety 3/8" externally-threaded sleeve bolts. These are only 1/4" in diameter where the hanger loads the bolt. It would be much safer to clip the drilled piton. The midway anchor consists of 3/8" cold shuts (not even the 1/2-inchers that we used to see at Wheeler Gorge and elsewhere). These beauties have been shown to have a 74% variation in breaking strength.

The mad bolter didn't e... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Vanishing Flakes (5.11a)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 4, 2015

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Comments: The route's lone bolt was replaced 2-3 years ago. The 5/16-inch stud was replaced with a bomber 12mm stainless sleeve bolt. The bolts in question looked like these.

Clearly, updating the aging hardware did not dissuade the idiot.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Vanishing Flakes (5.11a)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 31, 2014

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Comments: Replacing aging bolts one-to-one has been controversial for all of the 16+ years that I have been climbing in Santa Barbara. Where it has been done, it has generally been done with great discretion. And still the practice has had its detractors.

In the case of a classic route like Fun in the Sun, I'm happy to engage in this debate. Obviously, I think that adding solid bolts to each of the original placements is worthwhile in order to open this route to more ascents. I also understand that some ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Vanishing Flakes (5.11a)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 29, 2014

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Comments: It's a very sad day in Santa Barbara.

Someone has sport-bolted Vanishing Flakes. There is a new lower bolt (not far from the route's fixed pin), a new bolt above the original route's second clip and a sport anchor for lowering off half-way up the wall.

This is sacrilege. Vanishing Flakes is one of Santa Barbara's truly classic leads.

I am sure that the new bolts will not remain, but I strongly encourage Santa Barbara climbers to register their opinions here. I desperately hope that this i... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Riparian Daydream (5.10-) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: WOW! Where is Ashley standing, and how did she get there?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Technicolor Wall : Whale's Back (5.11-) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 7, 2014

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Comments: Conchoidal Fracture!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Foothill Crag ("The Foot") : I Love L.A. (5.10a PG13) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 6, 2014

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Comments: Hardest 5.9 in the guidebook!...okay, second only to the Weeny Roofs at San Ysidro.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Riparian Daydream (5.10-) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: Right on!!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 25, 2014

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Comments: Here the tilt of the camera does injustice to the route. That right-hand arete is way steeper than it looks in the photo.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i...
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 21, 2014

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Comments: The easiest way to get to the Fun in the Sun Wall is to climb Labrador Cupcakes. Instead of belaying from the two bolts atop that route, lead up to the oak tree. From the tree, there is a climber's trail that leads left toward Fun in the Sun (passing below the Lower Alchemist en route). There is one short scramble past a boulder as you near Fun in the Sun, but otherwise it's just walking.

I am aware of one route and one project to the right of Cupcakes & Champagne. There is a 7 or 8 bolt 5.9 ca... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... : Fun in the Sun (5.8 R)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: To be clear, it was Andy's vision and hard work that we should be grateful for. I was a late arrival in Rattlesnake Canyon. And Andy told me how incredible this route is fully a year before I finally got on it. Thank you, Andy.


Location: Matthew Fienup : Santa Barbara Anchor Replac... : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: The lead expansion expansion sleeve on the bottom of this bolt is 3/8" in diameter. The threaded bolt that screws in to this sleeve is considerably narrower--less than 5/16" in diameter.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... : Fun in the Sun (5.8 R)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: Here's the view, from the summit of Fun in the Sun - starting with Gibraltar Rock, high on the hillside and finishing with the ocean. The climber is Patrick Callery.




Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... : Fun in the Sun (5.8 R) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: This day was only a 3-island day. We caught Anacapa, Santa Cruz and Santa Rosa. San Miguel remained illusive.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... : Fun in the Sun (5.8 R)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: For the less adventurous, there is detailed beta here.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: The must-do route in Rattlesnake Canyon is Fun in the Sun. Here's the detailed beta:

The route starts on a large boulder in the shade, about 30 feet to the right of Tender Flakes and King Snake Crack. Look for a single bolt located about 25 feet off the ground.

Start on delicate friction and climb up and slightly-left to meet the bolt. You may want to place a small cam in a horizontal crack, along the way--getting to the first bolt is 5.7 and the landing is bad. From the bolt, step left and ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) (5.11a) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: Yes, excellent use of the human-anchor. I love that trick.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Economique (5.10a)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: The bolt is back.

I have long regarded this area as one of the true gems of the Central Coast, so I greatly appreciate the recent focus and attention that Wheeler Gorge is getting from route developers. Alex B.'s development of the second tier, above Danger Boy, is absolutely thrilling.

But it bugs the hell out of me that someone (I know its not you, Alex) is altering existing routes. On what planet is this acceptable? There are gray areas in the bolting realm, but is adding a bolt to someone ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: The bolt is back.

I have long regarded this area as one of the true gems of the Central Coast, so I greatly appreciate the recent focus and attention that Wheeler Gorge is getting from route developers. Alex B.'s development of the second tier, above Danger Boy, is absolutely thrilling.

But it bugs the hell out of me that someone (I know its not you, Alex) is altering existing routes. On what planet is this acceptable? There are gray areas in the bolting realm, but is adding a bolt to someone... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... : King Snake Crack (5.7 PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 21, 2014

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Comments: Unfortunately, the creative gear placements are at waist level or lower...making for a less than ideal belay ledge. In this photo, the masterpoint would be well below waist-level.

P1 Belay
P1 Belay



Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rock Area : Conan's Corridor : Lichanvura Trivirgata (5.10a/b) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: Indeed, great shot! What is the story, Benjamin? How did you find this creature? How was the photo made?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... : King Snake Crack (5.7 PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 8, 2014

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Comments: This crack was surely climbed by Forkash & Anderson during the development that took place in the 80s, although their route likely continued up the crack to a large oak tree out left. It was also top-roped by Andy Patterson over a year ago (when he found a piton in the main crack).


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... : Tender Flakes of Mercy (5.8 PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 8, 2014

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Comments: The crack that makes up the first 30 feet of this route was probably climbed by Forkash & Anderson or others during the development that occurred in the 80s. This crack was likely used to access the beautiful layback crack that starts 80 feet up, now part of the route King Snake Crack


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