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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : The Touch (5.8)
By: Matt Gates When: Sep 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gave this one three stars if led on gear.
Beta:
Used a No.4 to protect the first move into the crack, then a large stopper a little higher up. Two small but trucker stoppers in the left seam protect the crux, which I thought was exiting the hand crack. Head right, place a No. 2 then step up to the roof and place a small cam or two for the easy traverse back left. Exit the roof and it's all good. Very satisfying.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Double Down (5.10a)
By: Matt Gates When: Sep 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the 7 crack variation with good gear all the way. Good beginner gear route.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Dirty Dave's Dumpster Dive (5.10a)
By: Matt Gates When: Aug 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Led the right corner variation with a purple alien to protect the initial move into the crack, then a #1 and a #4 Camalot. Good hand jams - just too short.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Chasing Sticks (5.9)
By: Matt Gates When: Aug 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Led this w/ Aliens and med./large stoppers along with clipping the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Makes a good mixed route if you brought your rack.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Creekside : Curtain Call (5.8+)
By: Matt Gates When: Jun 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this with Gregory. We actually ended on Dutch Treat and finished at the anchors up and right of Showtime. Super fun!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : East of the Sun (5.7)
By: Matt Gates When: Mar 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did this in 1 long pitch (awesome!). Using longer slings on P1, I never felt any rope drag. Have your communication dialed as you most likely will not hear each other after the leader tops out. Medium nuts and hexes and small/medium cams work well on this one.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Sunlight Arete (5.10b)
By: Matt Gates When: Mar 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun little route. The approach may be a bit daunting for some.
Hint: Remember to use the "sunny side" of the arete as well.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Thelma (5.7)
By: Matt Gates When: Nov 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The anchor block may be perched securely but there is a fracture line in the block itself. Its only a matter of time before it splits in two. This route and its neighbor should be "retired". Till then, avoid these like the plague.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Louise (5.8)
By: Matt Gates When: Nov 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The anchor block may be perched securely, but there is a fracture line in the block itself. It's only a matter of time before it splits in two. This route and its neighbor should be "retired". Till then, avoid these climbs like the plague.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Brand New Bosch (5.9)
By: Matt Gates When: Nov 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found the crux to be moving back left and up from the big ledge. Other than that it is mostly 5.fun.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Party Time! (5.9)
By: Matt Gates When: Oct 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Recommend belaying to the far left (as you would for Edges and Ledges). A bowling ball size rock came loose from the upper ledge and landed on the belay ledge directly in line with the route. Luckily we were too lazy to move our belay from where we started. Fun route otherwise!
Edit: If you do belay on the left, move right when pulling your rope to avoid snagging it on a stubborn feature to the right of the first bolt.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Fields of Gold (5.10a)
By: Matt Gates When: Oct 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: READ!!: If lowering off the the first pitch, make sure that your belayer is tied in or that you have a stopper knot in your 60M rope.
Awesome route with varied climbing!
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Location: WI : Interstate State Park : Wisconsin Strip : Inside Corner (5.8)
By: Matt Gates When: Jul 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great lead climb, but not for the novice 5.8 leader. Up to the roof takes small nuts. I placed a #1 Camalot under the roof and a #3 at the roof, though a #4 might have been better. Aliens and smaller camalots will sow up the remainder. I set my anchors up in advance using medium size hexes and an orange alien. Enjoy!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : First Tier : Mists of Avalon (5.10a)
By: Matt Gates When: Jun 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Going straight up at the roof is burly but very rewarding. Move up quickly after clipping the fourth bolt and you will find a very nice rest.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : First Tier : Marquis de Sade (5.10c)
By: Matt Gates When: Jun 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Finger crack is not too bad (not easy either). I stuck my left foot in the crack and found purchase for my right on a little something on the face. The roof moves are a riot w/ many big holds to choose from. Best to move quickly in order to have some gas to clip the bolt above the roof.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winter Warmer Area : Ugly Stick (5.10-)
By: Matt Gates When: Apr 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well done! Interesting climb bottom to top. About two thirds up is where the business started for me. The character of the rock changes and you have to pull over a weird bulge. Bottom crack was excellent as well. The burliest moves are in the crack, but you are still fresh then. Belay from the anchors and have your second trail a rope up if you do not have a 70M rope. Still some loose stuff to be cleaned but it's not too bad.
Edit 11/24/2007: Managed to "clean" a bowling bowl off this on l... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Thick Crust (5.7)
By: Matt Gates When: Mar 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: No. 6 in the beta photo. Things get better upon exiting the "cave". Not a great climb, but not bad either.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Big Dihedral (5.8)
By: Matt Gates When: Mar 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb, but I second the comment about the anchors in the detached block. I appreciate the anchors, but shouldn't they be on the opposite face which appears to be solid rock?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Twofers Bypass (5.8)
By: Matt Gates When: Nov 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: A number 1 or 2 Camalot works well in the hand crack under the roof. The step around seemed pretty thin as far as the feet go. After that, I sewed up the rest with Aliens (blue through red). The trees at the top make good anchors. Use them gently.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Malign (5.7)
By: Matt Gates When: Nov 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't recommend using the trees near the top for an anchor. Too sketchy IMHO.
The OW was the mental crux for me because of the lack of pro. Yes, there is good pro below and above, but it sure seemed run out to me. Anyone else? I used my cordalette and set a fine anchor at the top of Nightcap.
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : Scout Rock : KeeMoSabe (5.9)
By: Matt Gates When: Oct 30, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. Think "smear" with the feet. Also, the quartz(?) block about half way up sounded pretty hollow. I would not recommened yarding on it. There are plenty of other hand/foot holds available at this point.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Solaris : Twilight Zone (5.10b)
By: Matt Gates When: Oct 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another "must do" at Solaris! Don't celebrate too early as it is slightly run out (but easy climbing) from the last bolt to the anchors.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Solaris : Tower of Power (5.10b)
By: Matt Gates When: Sep 30, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. Use longer slings on the first three bolts as the route trends left after the roof. Large positive holds get you over the roof to some fun face climbing. Be aware, it's a little ways up to the first bolt.
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