Comments: Daniel - Everything on the main face left side can be toproped - there are several sets of bolted anchors, where each anchor can be used for multiple climbs. The shortest path to get to the anchors is to take the direct trail up to the main cliff, and continue around the left side. Many of the lower climbs can also be toproped although if I recall there is often rope rubbing on rock for those (although nothing too serious).
Comments: I reclimbed this route this past weekend. Took a few hangs to finally figure out the beta. My friend took a fall coming out of the crux and hit his ankle pretty good on the small ledge to the right of the 3rd bolt. Be careful.
Comments: Finally got on this today. Hanged a bit, but for pulling the lip, I don't know what gaston and sloper people are referring to... once I reached over the lip there was a nice rail that I was able to use to pull my self up over the lip.
Comments: Matt Conroy is probably going to kill me for this, but I would rate this climb about a grade above what he proposed. I feel the crux is very similar to that on Gold Digger at Rumney (www.mountainproject.com/v/gold-digger/105927100).
Comments: So... I just got the Mountain Project app for my new android phone... turns out I need some practice using it. I got on this thinking it was Asbury Park (5.7). Imagine my surprise halfway up when someone told me it was 5.10d.... anyways, I managed to get up, despite quite a few rests. Good knee bar rest in the middle though.
Comments: I am going to make one suggestion, and maybe it's bad, but: I think there should be one more bolt between bolts 3 and 4. I had to clip bolt 4 from the crux hold, and had I fallen from there I would have hit the slab below pretty hard. In the video I posted I can clip the rope if the draw is already there, but I am also 6 feet tall with a positive ape index. I would suggest, in the interest of safety, another bolt a foot or 2 below bolt #4.
Comments: I felt like this was runout at the crux... I ended up climbing in to the nook rest above the crux, terribly out of breath (apparently I don't breath when I climb hard), and then reaching around the corner to clip my next bolt. I don't even want to think about the fall that would have been had I stayed out of the nook and fell at the next clip.... But then again, I am a giant pansy when I lead, so maybe it's not really run out.
Comments: If one were to put a bolt in that can be clipped after the first move, so your feet are ~5 or 6 feet off the ground, would that be high enough that there would be no ground fall potential between the new bolt and the current lowest bolt?
Comments: Hey now, I climbed only the first pitch, and I still found this to be a nice fun route, with a really fun crux move (although I won't mark an ascent or rate the climb until I have done both pitches clean).
Comments: You are correct. However, my climbing partner who climbed after me is about 5'4". He went even farther right than me, essentially staying on the arete. He did a thumb gaston on one of the micro crimps.