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Member Since: May 15, 2010
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Matt Wilson


Point Rank: # 2,212
Total Points: 257
Last Year: 4
Last 30 Days: 0
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Matt Wilson been climbing?










Contributions


All 267 | Routes 9 | Areas 4 | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 92 | Posts 62 | Stars 76 | Ratings 21
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: VT : Deer Leap
By: Matt Wilson When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: Daniel - Everything on the main face left side can be toproped - there are several sets of bolted anchors, where each anchor can be used for multiple climbs. The shortest path to get to the anchors is to take the direct trail up to the main cliff, and continue around the left side. Many of the lower climbs can also be toproped although if I recall there is often rope rubbing on rock for those (although nothing too serious).


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Technosurfing (5.12b) : Photo
By: Matt Wilson When: Mar 12, 2014

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Comments: Derek - I'm going to assume you've never been to Rumney... pretty much any route more than a year old looks like this on every hold.


Location: VT : Riverside Walls : Sport Wall : Ambidextrous (5.10d)
By: Matt Wilson When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: Agreed - I was on top rope so the fall was not an issue for me, but it seemed more natural to take the face.


Location: NH : Rumney : Bonsai : Peer Pressure (5.10d) : Photo
By: Matt Wilson When: Jul 23, 2013

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Comments: That looks as nice as the rest on Hammond Organ


Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Center : Lower Buttress Direct (5.8)
By: Matt Wilson When: Apr 27, 2013

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Comments: I found the crux to be excellently technical and thought provoking, more than making up for the forgettable start.


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Orange Sunshine (5.5)
By: Matt Wilson When: Apr 26, 2013

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Comments: Warning: very long and boring video-



Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff
By: Matt Wilson When: Apr 26, 2013

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Comments: Lee- I take it main cliff is open then? Or did the falcons return? I am a bit confused between your post and the closure alert on this page.


Location: NH : Rumney : Below the New Wave : Bullwinkle Goes Ballistic (5.10a)
By: Matt Wilson When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: The start to this climb is a ton of fun... very steep climbing on better holds than you can ask for.


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Clusterphobia (5.10d)
By: Matt Wilson When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: How does the steep part of this compare to, say, Bullwinkle goes Ballistic?


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Orange Sunshine (5.5)
By: Matt Wilson When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: Got on this today, a tad wet at the top at the crux, but it was certainly a fun climb.


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Magic Helmet (5.10a)
By: Matt Wilson When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: I reclimbed this route this past weekend. Took a few hangs to finally figure out the beta. My friend took a fall coming out of the crux and hit his ankle pretty good on the small ledge to the right of the 3rd bolt. Be careful.


Location: NH : Rumney : Below the New Wave : Debbie Does CPR (5.11a)
By: Matt Wilson When: Apr 13, 2013

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Comments: Finally got on this today. Hanged a bit, but for pulling the lip, I don't know what gaston and sloper people are referring to... once I reached over the lip there was a nice rail that I was able to use to pull my self up over the lip.


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Underdog (5.10a)
By: Matt Wilson When: Feb 5, 2013

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Comments: I have fallen coming out of the crux traverse. It very much startled me (my belayer fell over catching me), but it was quite clean. No nasty bumps into the rock or anything :)


Location: VT : Riverside Walls : Trad Wall : Creepy Caterpillar (5.8)
By: Matt Wilson When: Oct 20, 2012

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Comments: Matt Conroy is probably going to kill me for this, but I would rate this climb about a grade above what he proposed. I feel the crux is very similar to that on Gold Digger at Rumney (mountainproject.com/v/gold-dig....


Location: NH : Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Milktoast (5.10d)
By: Matt Wilson When: Oct 9, 2012

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Comments: Being tall (~6 feet), I found going straight up over the roof to be doable, as I was just barely tall enough to reach the decent hold while doing the knee bar under the roof.


Location: NH : Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Milktoast (5.10d)
By: Matt Wilson When: Oct 8, 2012

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Comments: So... I just got the Mountain Project app for my new android phone... turns out I need some practice using it. I got on this thinking it was Asbury Park (5.7). Imagine my surprise halfway up when someone told me it was 5.10d.... anyways, I managed to get up, despite quite a few rests. Good knee bar rest in the middle though.


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Far From Feral (5.10a)
By: Matt Wilson When: Sep 26, 2012

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Comments: I am going to make one suggestion, and maybe it's bad, but: I think there should be one more bolt between bolts 3 and 4. I had to clip bolt 4 from the crux hold, and had I fallen from there I would have hit the slab below pretty hard. In the video I posted I can clip the rope if the draw is already there, but I am also 6 feet tall with a positive ape index. I would suggest, in the interest of safety, another bolt a foot or 2 below bolt #4.


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Millenium Falcon (5.10c)
By: Matt Wilson When: Sep 24, 2012

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Comments: I was told that a fun alternate way to access this climb is by going up the Maltese Falcon. Has anyone tried this?


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Sweet Polly Purebred (5.10c)
By: Matt Wilson When: Sep 24, 2012

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Comments: I felt like this was runout at the crux... I ended up climbing in to the nook rest above the crux, terribly out of breath (apparently I don't breath when I climb hard), and then reaching around the corner to clip my next bolt. I don't even want to think about the fall that would have been had I stayed out of the nook and fell at the next clip.... But then again, I am a giant pansy when I lead, so maybe it's not really run out.


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Fish Corner (5.10b V1- R)
By: Matt Wilson When: Sep 24, 2012

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Comments: If one were to put a bolt in that can be clipped after the first move, so your feet are ~5 or 6 feet off the ground, would that be high enough that there would be no ground fall potential between the new bolt and the current lowest bolt?


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Far From Feral (5.10a)
By: Matt Wilson When: Sep 24, 2012

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Comments: Short video of the crux.



Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Rock Du Jours Direct (5.9+)
By: Matt Wilson When: Sep 23, 2012

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Comments: Hey now, I climbed only the first pitch, and I still found this to be a nice fun route, with a really fun crux move (although I won't mark an ascent or rate the climb until I have done both pitches clean).


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Flying Squirrel (5.11a)
By: Matt Wilson When: Sep 19, 2012

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Comments: If you want to climb this, be prepared for many spider webs.


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Little Big Man (5.11b)
By: Matt Wilson When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: Worked on this with a friend this past Saturday. He led the first half, and I led the second. This will be my new project!


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Goldbug (5.10d)
By: Matt Wilson When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: You are correct. However, my climbing partner who climbed after me is about 5'4". He went even farther right than me, essentially staying on the arete. He did a thumb gaston on one of the micro crimps.


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