Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Feb 10, 2003
Contact Matt White


Point Rank: # 5,889
Total Points: 58
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
2 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Matt White been climbing?










Contributions


All 22 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 5 | Page Improvements | Comments 13 | Posts | Stars 2 | Ratings

Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

5.7 Arete

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (17)

TR, 1 pitch

CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Crag

Jan 1, 2002

North Arete

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c (83)

Trad, 5 pitches

CO : Flatirons : ... : First Flatiron

Jan 1, 2001

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
This view, looking south west from the summit of Mt. Toll, is one of the best views you can get anywhere in the state.  The snowfield visible at the far left is Apache glacier.

This view, looking south west from the summit of Mt. Toll, is one of the best views you can get anywhere in the state. The snowfield visible at the far left is Apache glacier.

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Mount Toll

Jan 18, 2003

Toll from Blue Lake in June.

Toll from Blue Lake in June.

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Mount Toll

Jan 18, 2003

Isabelle glacier cirque at sunrise.  Nirvana.

Isabelle glacier cirque at sunrise. Nirvana.

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Navajo Peak

Sep 6, 2002

Toproping left of the 5.8 crack.

Toproping left of the 5.8 crack.

CO : Golden : ... : 5.9 Crack aka "Into the Voi... (5.9)

Feb 27, 2002

Toproping the arete at the left side of the main face.

Toproping the arete at the left side of the main face.

CO : Golden : ... : 5.7 Arete (5.7)

Feb 27, 2002

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones
By: Matt White When: Feb 10, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: That is an amazing looking tower, isn't it? Good ol' Harvey T. Carter claimed the first ascent of the Black Gendarme in the early 1960's. See W.M. Bueller's "Roof of the Rockies" for more details.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Wind Ridge (5.8)
By: Matt White When: Mar 24, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: The flake-roof thing on pitch three is bizarre. Difficulty is definitely body-size dependent. I'm big, and that made it much harder than 5.6. There is a bombproof nut in the crack just above and behind the flake, and the moves up out of the flake are made easier by a good fingerlock and small incut holds above the roof. There is no pro for 10 feet or so once you've turned the roof. Don't fall here, or you'll hit the big ledge. Beginners should probably walk off.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Rincon (5.11a)
By: Matt White When: Mar 24, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: AC: I stood in a sling clipped directly to the pin, and I had my weight distrubuted between a bad smear, the pin, and a funky cam hook. My guess is that I loaded the pin to 75 pounds at most. A wooden pin might have held that much.

Best advice: Be ready for the route. Do a lot of slippery, roofy, mantely boulder problems first. Be safe. Don't whip on the pin or you'll be sorry.

...and don't aid it. Full-on aid climbing in Eldo is just plain wrong. Aiding Rincon seemed like a good idea at th... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Crag : 5.7 Dihedral (5.7)
By: Matt White When: Feb 28, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: I have it on good authority that anyone bringing a bolt kit to this crag will be hit struck by lightning.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : North Arete (5.4)
By: Matt White When: Feb 27, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: Let's not forget Mike Sofranko. He loved the Flatirons, Boulder Canyon, and Eldo as much as any of us. Please be careful out there.


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Crag
By: Matt White When: Feb 27, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: Golden climbers (and particularly students from the School of Mines) have been teaching people to climb at this crag for decades. It is small, but it is very special to a lot of people. We'd like to keep it that way. Please respect the area and the rock. Pack out your bottles and trash, and PLEASE leave the bolt kit at home. Thanks.


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Crag : 5.9 Crack aka "Into the Voi... (5.9)
By: Matt White When: Feb 27, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: This is a really nice 60 foot crack. I have to disagree with D-Lo -- this route deserves two stars.

Bring a set of wires, a couple of RPs, and two or three small to medium cams to lead it, with a #3 or #3.5 Camalot for the wide crack in the overlap 3/4 of the way up.

There is a perfect jug for turning the roof. Above the roof there are two or three goofy, sideways, off-balance, unprotected moves to get to the top of the crag. If you peel here, you'll hit the slab below the roof ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Grins (5.8)
By: Matt White When: Feb 27, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: I agree with the three star rating. This is a fun pitch, and a great lead. The crux (for me) was a high-step from a stance at an undercling about halfway up. The gear is fantastic all the way up.

...and as much as I hate to disagree with Myke, I've belayed topropers on this climb with a 50m cord, and it works just fine.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Ellingwood Ledges (5.7)
By: Matt White When: Feb 27, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: Does anyone know if this route has been climbed in full winter conditions?


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Crag
By: Matt White When: Feb 20, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: Last year somebody placed a number of new unnecessary bolts on this crag. Several of the bolts were partially placed, then abandoned. Maybe the bolter was using his short little pr#%k as a depth-gage?

Anyway, I just removed several of these bolts, and filled in about ten partially-drilled holes. From now on, if you want to toprope this slab, sling a damn tree.

And don't let me catch you (whoever you were) practicing to be a Sport Park grid-bolter on this crag. If I do catch you, we wil... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Rincon (5.11a)
By: Matt White When: Feb 18, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: For those not at home on 11a (like me), if you don't mind losing out on the potential onsight of the crux moves, I suggest climbing to the pin and clipping a screamer to it. Weight the pin slowly by stepping in a sling, or stem to reach that high nut. Clip a screamer to the nut as well. Lower or downclimb back to the cam and then climb smoothly through the crux. This technique is questionable in terms of style, but it may be the best idea for average Joe climbers who have never done those funky... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Reggae (5.8)
By: Matt White When: Nov 28, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: I agree with Warren. The crux is short but the moves feel stiff for 5.8. There is great gear just below the crux. The climber on Reggae in the above route photo of the Wind Tower is at the base of the crux.

Once you commit to the lieback crack, the gear placements are still good, but they're blind -- so you may end up burning precious forearm juice while you fumble with the rack (like I did). Climbers with good footwork who can stem WIDE will have an easier time here.

There is a huge incut ho... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Ellingwood Ledges (5.7)
By: Matt White When: Nov 19, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Some advice for improving your chances for having a good time on Ellingwood Ledges:

1. If you camp at Upper South Colony Lake, you can reach the base of the route in just a few minutes from your tent.

Like S.L. says above, you can boulder yourself silly in the upper South Colony drainage. Just watch out for marmot s**t on the holds. A few of the boulders overhang on every side and therefore have marmot-proof summits. These make nice hiding places for your food while you're on the Needle.

2. ... more >>


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

North Arete 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

CO : Flatirons : ... : First Flatiron

5.7 Arete 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Crag