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5.11a roof crack over the East China Sea.


Member Since: May 25, 2001
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 3,193
Total Points: 150
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
45 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 59 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 10 | Page Improvements | Comments 29 | Posts 4 | Stars 9 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Koh Phi-Phi : Tonsai Tower : ... : Photo
By: Matt Robertson When: Jul 26, 2010

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Comments: Great photo. Who's behind the lens?


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : Big Drum (5.11b)
By: Matt Robertson When: May 12, 2010

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Comments: This route is named Big Canyon (J or da gu). Like many other routes at Music Hall, it is equipped with reliable glue-in bolts. 5.11b is a fair grade.


Location: International : Asia : China : Photo
By: Matt Robertson When: Mar 26, 2010

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Comments: "Double Fisted Beauty" 5.10c. 30 meters. Rack to #3 Camalot. Bolted anchor. FFA Matt Robertson and Xiao Man Yen, 6/8/2008.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan
By: Matt Robertson When: May 28, 2009

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Comments: Long Dong currently has around 500 routes on high quality sandstone up to 70 meters high, including sport routes (5.5 to 5.14a), trad up to 5.12c, and bouldering. The area is on the Northeast Coast of Taiwan about 45 minutes from central Taipei City, and also offers great swimming and diving, hiking, amazing seafood and friendly Taiwanese culture.


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : ... : Jumping For Jugs (5.11b)
By: Matt Robertson When: Sep 29, 2008

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Comments: If you can touch the first hold at all, you likely will find the subsequent steep climbing more difficult than the start. At 5'9", white, overweight and unable to touch a basketball net, I could latch the jug. I found the climbing above to be pumpy and nice; only the back-scratching tree branches detract from the quality.

It should be noted that this route is probably more like 12 meters right of Wake & Bake (the first route right of W&B is By Way of Deception, another nice route wi... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : ... : Pearl Jam (5.12-)
By: Matt Robertson When: Jun 25, 2007

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Comments: If you're missing Valley jams while on Tonsai, check out this route.

This is the most impressive limestone crack I've ever seen. It is steep, tall, wide, and unrelenting. It looks like a granite fist crack and appears from the base as if one could use #4 Camalots to protect it... about 20 of 'em. In fact it climbs more like limestone than granite, there are features, making for some gymnastic movement--complete with fists! Damn burly and inspiring route.


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Railay West : ... : Out of Sticks (5.12a)
By: Matt Robertson When: Apr 12, 2007

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Comments: New bolts as of early '07.

Devious and sustained, with multiple cruxes.

Perhaps harder than Caveman and nearly as good.


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Railay West : ... : Lord of the Thai's (5.12b)
By: Matt Robertson When: Feb 28, 2007

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Comments: The first two pitches can be linked. Doing so will be pumpy with runouts and/or rope drag. Pitch 3 is one of the finest bolted pitches on the planet.

In February 2007 Tim Emmett BASE-jumped off the top of this route after following every pitch free with a 25-pound pack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Gambit (5.8)
By: Matt Robertson When: Jan 10, 2002

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Comments: The start of this outstanding route is vague and nondescript. If you find yourself wondering where to go on the first-pitch slab, look up and left. A sickle-shaped finger crack on the left wall of a right-facing dihedral, about a hundred feet up and visible from the ground, is a good landmark to shoot for. Best 5.8 in the canyon.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Reggae (5.8)
By: Matt Robertson When: Dec 3, 2001

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Comments: Gear is good at the crux, but the 5.8 leader needs to be ready to punch through a few moves without stopping. There are a few feet of layback moves on which one COULD stop to place more pro, but doing so might bump the pump up to 5.8++. I think Reggae is a good indicator of the confidence your 5.8 leader has in her gear; as one of my very first trad leads I recall feeling quite concerned stepping up on the layback until I grabbed that fine jug above.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : West Side : Practice Slab (5.8)
By: Matt Robertson When: Nov 13, 2001

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Comments: Those step-chipping bastards with the alpenstocks. We oughtta vow to lynch any bastard seen climbing with an alpenstock.

Where on the Spectrum does "chipping steps with alpenstock" lie?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Body Tremors (5.8+ PG13)
By: Matt Robertson When: Nov 11, 2001

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Comments: A postscript, of sorts.

Tony Bubb and I climbed Body Tremors on Saturday. I found this to be a unique pitch of fun climbing that forces a constant sampling of available holds, most of which are jugs. This would make a nice finish to any of a multitude of fine routes; our link-up of Lower Grand Giraffe to Body Tremors offered a varied line of the type of brutish climbing that I personally enjoy most. A two-point-seven-five star combination (but I'm a stubborn ass).

Significantly more... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Body Tremors (5.8+ PG13)
By: Matt Robertson When: Oct 31, 2001

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Comments: The three-star rating is starting to look pretty cheap...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Lost in Space (5.7 R)
By: Matt Robertson When: Oct 30, 2001

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Comments: Funny. Rossiter also describes a last-pitch variation to Outer Space that he calls Lost in Space. A direct linkup from OS to upper Redgarden would be an impressive send.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Supremacy Rock : Supremacy Crack (5.11b)
By: Matt Robertson When: Oct 29, 2001

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Comments: Agreed. I was able to garner a plenty-sufficient pump on TR. I think of what it must have been like placing slung square-sided nuts back in the day and am reminded yet again how spoiled we are today. Generation SLCD.

Not coincidentally, that day of Ament's "FFA" also saw the introduction, by the visiting Don Whilans and Royal Robbins, of clean pro to Eldorado. Various of Ament's books (High Over Boulder, for one) provide memorable images of that day. A trio of climbing legends on Ruper.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Five Dollars (5.10c)
By: Matt Robertson When: Oct 29, 2001

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Comments: Sketchy and loose. I would not recommend this route to someone nearing his or her limit at 5.10+.The upper slab is technical and nice, but the high first bolt and unprotected 5.9 moves on chossy rock warrant caution. Be very mindful of a red block about three feet below the small roof - as mentioned above, it sounds disconcertingly loose, and a ground fall here would leave one bruised and filled with cactus spines.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Supremacy Rock : Supremacy Crack (5.11b)
By: Matt Robertson When: Oct 29, 2001

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Comments: "Pumpy without cams." ??!!!

Steep stuff. Lots of history here for a short route. Candidate for the first 5.11 to go free in Colorado, although some controversy surrounded Ament's initial claim to have freed it. (He subsequently led the pitch without the "few moments' rest" on a piton.) Peter Croft onsighted the thing... free solo.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Rincon (5.11a)
By: Matt Robertson When: Oct 29, 2001

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Comments: Most would agree that very few classic routes in Eldorado should have protection updates, especially if they are still seeing action. Placing a bolt where a dicey pin has existed for years reduces the route and reduces the experience. Selfishly I'd love to see a fat bolt at the Rincon crux, because I haven't yet had the sack to go see what the 'dicey' pin looks like. But softening Rincon would reduce the satisfaction I look forward to on the day I'm feeling ready to tackle the route.

What ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Matt Robertson When: Oct 19, 2001

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Comments: Bravo, Steve. Thanks for yet another interesting addition - reading history like this is why I hit this site every time I'm online....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Third Stage (5.10b/c)
By: Matt Robertson When: Oct 18, 2001

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Comments: This route climbs a section of red stone perpendicular to the main orientation of Cactus Cliff. Look for the left wall of a right-facing dihedral. Even with updated gear, the bolt locations and frequency might offer some excitement for a climber at his or her limit who is used to the modern style of bolting on most Shelf routes.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Auburn Lane (5.10-)
By: Matt Robertson When: Oct 3, 2001

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Comments: Slightly chossy in places, with a very brief crux. Seems like a 10d move, though it's over quickly. Second pitch would be nice with a little traffic to clean it. The belay area at the top is loaded with precarious rocks ready to fall down into the dihedral - caution or hats advised, and I would steer well clear if another party is up there.

Not the worst route in the world, but if you're at Cadillac and craving some 5.10 crack... you walked just a bit too far up the hill.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: Matt Robertson When: Sep 27, 2001

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Comments: The eyebolt is fine (9/01). A little rattle gives it character.

This route has amazing exposure and steepness for the grade. On the upper Rebuffat's Arete (pitch 5), one should really stay on the arete to the pinnacle summit (the ten feet of 5.8 off the belay is easily avoided to the right if wanted); regaining the arete for the final 10-15 meters gives some fine exposure not unlike the top of the Yellow Spur or the Tiger Balm, steeper but it's only about 5.4. Avoid any temptation t... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Osiris (5.7)
By: Matt Robertson When: Aug 16, 2001

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Comments: Damn, dude, go easy on that little girl! I found Osiris to be excellent - a perfectly typical Lumpy route at a moderate grade, and therefore not for everyone. Lacking only some runout, I think this route is a perfect intro to the first-class climbing experience that is Lumpy Ridge.

Rossiter's guidebook attributes the FA to Dave Johnson and Pete Robinson in 1964.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Friends in High Places (5.10a)
By: Matt Robertson When: Jun 18, 2001

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Comments: Agreed also. While the crux is well protected, there is an interesting move early in the second pitch (right off the belay, if I recall) which you wouldn't want to fall from.

This route might be considered really good if it were on almost any other crag in the universe. Worth doing while you're waiting for all the megaclassics nearby - but only if you don't lose your place in line.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Northcutt Start (5.10d)
By: Matt Robertson When: May 31, 2001

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Comments: I love the story of the first free ascent. Ray Northcutt, who must have been strong as an ox since he could do 100 pullups, was incorrectly told that Layton Kor had freed the direct start to the Bastille Crack. Upon learning this, Northcutt went out the next day and fired the line, only later learning that his was indeed the FFA.

I think this is generally acknowledged to be a bona fide 5.11- pitch nowadays, and when you consider that it was nearly a decade later that Ament, et al. were bein... more >>


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