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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Sister Morphine (5.9)
By: Matt Richardson When: Apr 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This must play to Ivan's strengths. Yeah, the 9 section is probably about 10' on a 80-90' route, but it's still 9. I'd be hard pressed to find an 8 easier. And I think that Ron is spot on regarding his assessment of the gear - the crux protects well, but I would by no means suggest that you can sew this route up (the guy that led this before me also said you can sew this up, but had only about 4 pieces for the whole route; I used a similar number of pieces, but felt comfortable). T... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Chianti (5.8+)
By: Matt Richardson When: Apr 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this last weekend as a warmup, and what an excellent route! I think you will find the crux depends on your strength - if you excel at more gymnastic movement, then the beginning of the second pitch which requires some crack technique will be it; if you cruise crack, then the bottom of the first pitch will probably make you think. The first pitch is nice and long - about 35 m to the tree shared with Break on Through. The second pitch is no longer than 20 m.
There is an alternate... more >>
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Location: Adam Stackhouse : Misc : Photo
By: Matt Richardson When: Apr 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Are we supposed to rate the photo, or the subject great?
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Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Snott Girlz (5.10+)
By: Matt Richardson When: Apr 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Given that you are traversing across the top of the Mota wall, be careful not to trundle rocks onto the crowds below (and there will be crowds).
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Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Treasure of the Sierra Madr... (5.10c)
By: Matt Richardson When: Apr 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A 70 m definitely takes the sting out of the rap on the last pitch - or maybe some foresight. I managed to miss the rap station half way down and had to down climb a bit to get to the rap station at the top of the sixth pitch.
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Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Photo
By: Matt Richardson When: Apr 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice job, Mike! Where did you shoot this from? Looks like it's from the top of Snot Girlz.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Long John Wall (5.8)
By: Matt Richardson When: Apr 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch for pitch, this is an excellent climb. I am not sure where Patrick gets his 60' of good climbing over 100'. I felt that the route was consistent throughout. Especially if you do the first pitch of Break on Through. That being said, this is probably not the best route for a green 8 climber.
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Location: Rob Kepley : Eldorado Canyon : Photo
By: Matt Richardson When: Apr 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Middle of a run out sounds like an excellent time for Guy to be taking a picture - adds a little bit of extra spiciness. Wooohooo!
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Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Photo
By: Matt Richardson When: Apr 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great shot! Looks like it was painted.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Mr. Natural (5.8+)
By: Matt Richardson When: Apr 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this a while back and recall the line to be immensely enoyable, but too short. After getting spanked on Vedauwoo 7s, I was a little shocked at how easy this went. Definitely played more to my style, being a recovering sport climber and all. And the good pro was a definite bonus - especially since I felt deathly ill and wasn't thinking clearly.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Industrial Buttress : Politicians, Priests, and B... (5.10a)
By: Matt Richardson When: Apr 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Eric! This is a nice route that was in much need of some rebolting. What an alarmist I am! Sounds like it was not quite as desperate as I made it out to be.
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Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Gus Fruh : Kingdom of Ging : Charlie Don't Surf (5.10d)
By: Matt Richardson When: Apr 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This has to be one of my favorite routes in the area; bonus do to the lack of traffic here.
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Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Gus Fruh : Guide's Wall : Touch of Class (5.7)
By: Matt Richardson When: Apr 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've never been on this one, but it looks like good gear to the top (for those craving to place in the middle of Austin).
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Palace Pages : ... : Photo
By: Matt Richardson When: Mar 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If am allowed to say this about my own wife - what a fox!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : ... : Photo
By: Matt Richardson When: Mar 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bleh! This first pitch is total garbage. Awkward opening moves to low 5th class.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : South Ridgeline, including ... : Pin Scar Finger Crack (V2)
By: Matt Richardson When: Mar 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would say significant difference in grade if you don't stem.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : South Ridgeline, including ... : Cat Eye Wall: Upper Roof (V-easy)
By: Matt Richardson When: Mar 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route for practicing gear placement - bomber locks, nice feet and nice final moves out of the roof.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Funkdemental (5.11b)
By: Matt Richardson When: Feb 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route, but I don't recall it being contrived or particularly difficult. Maybe it was a height thing? Definitely worth doing if you are over here and an easy tick for the aspiring 11 leader.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happy/... : Happy Boulders : ... : Photo
By: Matt Richardson When: Feb 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I like the perspective; what was this taken with?
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Just Say No (5.9- PG13) : Photo
By: Matt Richardson When: Jan 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can throw a girth hitch in there so that you don't have to run it out to the first bolt.
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Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt
By: Matt Richardson When: Jan 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thomas - there is a lot of climbing at Barton Creek. Where were you when you spied these bolts? Also, there should be a guide out that covers Barton Creek; the one I have is Texas Limestone - it's way out of date and I believe it has been replaced but I can't remember the name of the current guide.
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Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie'... : Over Easy (5.9)
By: Matt Richardson When: Jan 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If memory serves correctly (and I have to dig as the last time I did this was probably well before 2003), there is a large block shaped like a piece of pizza that should be treated with care - it's been there forever, but looks like it could fall anytime as it was separated along three edges.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : Mineshaft Wall : Armor Plated (5.11c)
By: Matt Richardson When: Nov 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Opening moves are probably 11a-ish then the middle sequence probably goes at 10. I couldn't stick the dyno, so I moved off a crimp to a gaston out right. This way probably takes it down a letter grade or two (but I suck at dynos). Like all routes here, the bottom was tricky for me to read.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : Mineshaft Wall : Monstrosity (5.10b/c)
By: Matt Richardson When: Nov 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. Straightforward and definitely easier than Strictly Business.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden...
By: Matt Richardson When: Nov 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's been probably four years since the first time I went to this crag - about the same time that Christian put up his note - and I have to agree that the Hubbel and Schovajsa Flacon guide to the place is one of the most worthless guides I have purchased. I don't go up there much, but each time I do I spend the first 20 minutes trying to figure out where the hell I am. Adding to the absurdity of the situation is that almost everyone I pass seems to be alternately staring at the guide and the ... more >>
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