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castleton tower


Member Since: May 11, 2010
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Matt Pierce
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Point Rank: # 3,580
Total Points: 145
Last Year: 53
Last 30 Days: 4
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 274 | Routes | Areas | Photos 23 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 27 | Posts 89 | Stars 85 | Ratings 49
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : Just A Smidgen Harder (5.10c/d)
By: Matt Pierce When: 2 days ago

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Comments: We did an on-sight of this since it isn't in the new guidebook. But we only did the first pitch. Really good movement and there didn't seem to be a lot of loose rock. This route is hard to clean on rap so I brought up my second and we both rapped off. The description says it goes about .10b but it really only felt like maybe .9+


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.8)
By: Matt Pierce When: May 6, 2015

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Comments: There is currently a stuck #5 just above "the bolt" - it's been beat up pretty bad with people trying to get it out. I wouldn't plan on it staying there and you should def bring one of your own along. There's also a stuck nut just below the crux at the top of pitch one that I used. A few random thoughts - I thought it was really sustained climbing - especially the endless jamming on pitch 1 - super fun, pitch 2 utilizes your chimney technique for sure, the stepover on pitch 3 is pretty hea... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : C. Middle and West Walls : Buffalo Soldier (5.10c)
By: Matt Pierce When: Apr 12, 2015

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Comments: Fun route with some tricky moves down low. We didn't use any gear. The only downside to this route is the moves to the right where you join the other route. It was a little disappointing to run out of bolts and have to move right to join the other line. Extending these bolts is prudent to avoid rope drag.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : C. Middle and West Walls : Three Little Birds (5.9)
By: Matt Pierce When: Apr 12, 2015

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Comments: Really nice line with a fun crux. This route will also go on gear. A 0.75 to protect the crux and a few nuts and small cams will work above. Nice job, Adam.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : A. East Wall : The Burning Bush (5.7)
By: Matt Pierce When: Apr 12, 2015

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Comments: Sorry Josh - I have to disagree - this is not a 3 star route. We all agreed it was MAYBE 1. It's uneventful and still really dirty. It's bolted well and is a nice, easy warmup for the harder stuff in the area or a good lead for new leaders. Will be a nice line once cleaned up and will likely warrant a star.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Headstone : Chickenhead (5.8)
By: Matt Pierce When: Oct 26, 2014

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Comments: We felt the first pitch was no harder than 5.7. The big unattached flake is still there at the start of the second pitch and is probably more solid than it looks. If you do the third pitch it is short and has 5 bolts. The view from the top is worth the effort. Also - we were able to rap from the top all the way back to the first belay ledge with a 70M.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Headstone : Chickenhead (5.8) : Photo
By: Matt Pierce When: Oct 26, 2014

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Comments: Pitch one isn't really harder than 5.7.


Location: Colorado : New Speed Record on The Nak... : Post : Photo
By: Matt Pierce When: Oct 9, 2014

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Comments: Awesome photo - thanks for sharing


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Get A Life (5.7)
By: Matt Pierce When: Oct 1, 2014

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Comments: Can someone confirm for me: the start of the second pitch - if you head off DIRECTLY above the bolted belay is this actually the route Get Insurance? We heading straight up off of the belay, and honestly it felt like 9+/10- and certainly didn't seem like 5.7. We looked left, but it just didn't seem like that would be correct (rope drag, etc).


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : Fill In The Blanks (5.8+)
By: Matt Pierce When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: Fun route - that second bolt needs to be extended to avoid terrible rope drag for the leader - felt like 5.9 to me.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge
By: Matt Pierce When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: We traversed left of the chockstone and thought that was an easier way up - on the way back down someone has placed some new cord around a tree that you could rap with if you don't want to downclimb the chockstone, etc. - could use a rap ring though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Rush Buick (5.7)
By: Matt Pierce When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: We found a lot of wasps all around this route last weekend - from the belay to the anchors - not sure of the source. Just be aware.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : The Whistle Pig : Gus (5.6)
By: Matt Pierce When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: Agree with John - a tad easier because of Phil's start. There's a nasty, hand-sized rock right under the roof that's really loose, but we couldn't quite pull....


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks
By: Matt Pierce When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: Very nice state park and great work being done in here. We recently visited for the first time and only explored a portion of the area, but we saw lots of great routes and lots of potential. Trails are in good shape in most areas. Be aware it is over 2 miles for the approach with lots of bike, kid, and doggy dodging :) Thanks to all who did and continue to develop this area - well done.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Dinosaur's Foot : Top Rope Wall Crack (5.7)
By: Matt Pierce When: Jul 5, 2013

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Comments: The top of this route - past the crux is very difficult to protect. The climbing felt like 5.7, but placing gear here would be very difficult.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Cornerstone : The Good Book (5.10c)
By: Matt Pierce When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: Very nice route, and it felt like there was a lot going on in this short route. Tough start I thought - if you arent a strong 5.10 leader you might consider stick clipping the first bolt or 2....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Cornerstone : The Mustard Seed (5.8+)
By: Matt Pierce When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: I agree that this isn't a great BEGINNER lead, but it's a fun route for those beginners looking to push themselves a little. And it's pretty short and well bolted. All the bolts are in great shape as of yesterday.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Hillbilly Rocks : Hillbilly Rock 1
By: Matt Pierce When: Oct 7, 2012

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Comments: Fun day out and had the crag to ourselves. Things of note: lots of wasps all over this crag - and this after the canyon got below freezing last night - be aware. Also - the D'Antonio guidebook has I'll Be Dipped, Square Dance, and Hoo-Doggy with separate anchors, but we only found 2. The approach is steep but very manageable.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : The Urban Alpine Crag : Mike in the Fast Lane (5.9+)
By: Matt Pierce When: Sep 16, 2012

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Comments: As of today, this new route is still quite dirty - wish I had brought a small brush along....


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : The Urban Alpine Crag : Mike in the Fast Lane (5.9+)
By: Matt Pierce When: Sep 16, 2012

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Comments: This route ascends left (pendulum potential) and ends only a few feet from the anchor for Gneiss Lee Done (.10b). If you want to make a run at the harder Gneiss Lee Done and don't want to lead it, you can move over and setup a toprope from here (the top of Mike in the Fast Lane).


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : The Urban Alpine Crag
By: Matt Pierce When: Sep 16, 2012

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Comments: We had this place to ourselves this morning. This is a really fun crag close to town. If you like very well bolted moderates, this is a good place. The approach is short and only a bit gnarly coming off the road. Belay stances aren't ideal. Nice work by those that put up the routes - thanks! Oh - and we were in the shade all day....


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : The Icebox : Corneal Abrasion (5.6)
By: Matt Pierce When: Sep 16, 2012

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Comments: A decent, easy, slabby, short beginner lead route....


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Punks and Old Men (5.8-)
By: Matt Pierce When: Sep 16, 2012

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Comments: The crux seems to be between bolts 1 and 2 - it's a little thin if you don't go too far left - once you hit the third bolt and those great flakes to the right, it's smooth sailing.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Venice Beach (5.8)
By: Matt Pierce When: May 23, 2012

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Comments: The slabby section everyone speaks of was the crux in my opinion - was a tough lead for me. Also, Holiday Road is very close to you on the right and it's easy to be lured just off route to the right (you can see chalk there, etc.), but that is part of Holiday Road. Stay on the slab as there is at least 1 nice left hand crimper to use. Route is in good shape as of yesterday.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Holiday Road (5.8)
By: Matt Pierce When: May 10, 2012

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Comments: I agree that the last 8-10 feet is the crux. That last bolt before the anchors was tough to get if you're staying left just a bit. You really have to stay direct on this route. All bolts and anchors are in great shape this week.


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