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Where did the rock go?


Member Since: Mar 7, 2005
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
Contact Matt Pickren


Point Rank: # 909
Total Points: 711
Last Year: 54
Last 30 Days: 10
7 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Matt Pickren been climbing?










Contributions


All 233 | Routes 7 | Areas 3 | Photos 105 | Page Improvements | Comments 71 | Posts 29 | Stars 15 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : East Side : Simonizer (5.13a PG13)
By: Matt Pickren When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: This route does not deserve a PG-13. It is a little runout in 2 spots. However, those spots are merely 5.10. If you are contemplating leading this route, chances are you will be fine on 5.10. The upper crux is well-protected.

This is not a 'who's balls are bigger' comment, I just want more people to get on this route, because it is bad ass.


Location: CO : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : East Side : The Sand Dollar (5.13) : Photo
By: Matt Pickren When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: That guy looks really smart in those glasses and really poor in those shorts....


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Warlock : Wings of Leather (5.11 C0 PG13)
By: Matt Pickren When: Feb 23, 2014

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Comments: Glad to hear that people are climbing this route and super stoked everyone is freeing it. Nce work Steven! Glad to hear that the roof isn't that bad. I wish I had given it a shot on the FA. I was pretty damn tired after climbing and cleaning the pitch up until that point and then drilling the bolt. (read = "I wish I wasn't a bitch...). Pretty sweet area and awesome day out climbing the Warlock along with the Cauldrons and the Witch. Enjoy!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Sunshine Wall : Dickfour : Original Route (5.9+ A2+)
By: Matt Pickren When: Dec 30, 2013

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Comments: Crusher, good to know that it is actually named "Dickfour" rather than "Dick For." However, where does the name come from. I've wondered for years since I first saw the spire while climbing 143 in 2006. Some history may be interesting, and even better, to quite our friend B. Grasse who excessively asks 'Whats a Dick for?!"

Thanks for the reply, Matt


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Overview & Waterfall : Hysteria (5.12b)
By: Matt Pickren When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: Really good route, thin and technical, I think the rating is right on. Good find.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Overview & Waterfall : Cold Ass Honkies (5.11c)
By: Matt Pickren When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: Wasn't a fan of this route at first due to the contrived start of the climb. After climbing it 4 times, I like it. It is probably not harder than .11c, but do not expect a single move easier than 5.11c, very sustained and good climbing.

Also, I will be honest in saying I am all for 'enhancing' 1 or 2 holds to be able to climb this from the ground, it's not missing much. Thoughts? If you haven't climbed this route yet, I don't care what your thoughts are.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Spring Canyon : Pointy Tower : The Original Route (5.9 C1+) : Photo
By: Matt Pickren When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: We will take you up on that lunch, IN DURANGO!! as all three of us freed the entire tower. Thanks Brad!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Spring Canyon : Roadside Fling Tower
By: Matt Pickren When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: This tower easily goes free at 5.11. We were tired and short of time and therefore led Sam's variation to P1. From the large ledge, climb the left side of the boulders, clip the bolt and do 5 moves protected with the bolt and a drilled angle, 5.11c. Then hand traverse right to the cracks and up to the summit, this portion is 5.10. Bill followed this pitch clean with tennis shoes on, is REALLY fun.

Ben then top-roped "The Things We Do For Love's" picch 1. He said mostly 5.10+ and the pro is goo... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Bird's View Butte / Crow's ... : Luminous Being : ... : Photo
By: Matt Pickren When: May 23, 2013

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Comments: Very good power of observation. You get a gold star.


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Dolomite Spire
By: Matt Pickren When: Apr 4, 2013

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Comments: Yes, it is possible to hike in from around the back. To do so, park at the group camping and follow the main wash until even with the Lighthouse/ main butte notch and then go up to Dolomite. This is a dog friendly approach, but the easiest is definitely from the front and climbing the 5.7 approach pitch.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky
By: Matt Pickren When: Mar 24, 2013

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Comments: You do NOT need a permit to either climb or drive the road. You ONLY need a permit to spend the night, and that must be done in one of the estabvlished camping areas.


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Northside Routes : Trail of The Navajo (5.11c)
By: Matt Pickren When: Feb 28, 2013

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Comments: I can't remember the exact chain of events but its something like this:

-Josh and I climbed the rote (Josh already had once before ((its that good)).
-We called it 'Astroman of the Desert,' knowing it had a name, until we found the FA's name.
-Either Coyne or Reynolds contacted us (Reynolds I believe?) and said they called it 'Princess'
-Coyne then brought the current name to MtnProj's attention


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : Blue Light Special (5.12a)
By: Matt Pickren When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: This route fully deserves more traffic. The rock is impecable and amazingly clean. The climbing is fun and continuous. Get on it!


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas
By: Matt Pickren When: Aug 12, 2012

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Comments: I second Bill's comment. Be mature enough to leave them alone, especially when they are replaced after you probably stole the first set. If you need the biners for your rack, we will get you nice new wire gates! It is very annoying to think they are there, and then get to the anchor and they are gone.

Also, if you are innocent in this matter but have any idea of who it is; if you get me evidence of what DB is taking them, I will hook you up with multiple nice new biners or something ... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : X Rock : Gold Wall : Gold Wall (5.10+)
By: Matt Pickren When: Jul 28, 2012

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Comments: Cleaned someone's draws off the first two bolts yesterday (7-27), looks like they bailed before the runout to the 3rd bolt. Please e-mail or call me, and I will get them back to you. Makes me think they were in a hurry to get out of there as they could have rapped in to get them back. 970946 7237.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Small towers next to Echo a... : Y Tower (5.7) : Photo
By: Matt Pickren When: Jul 24, 2012

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Comments: I see you saw the page on 'The Stool,' and my 300+ comment. However, keep in mind Bill was with us on this one, therefore, 320+ towers.


Location: UT : Moab Area : 191 South : Joe Wilson Canyon : The Stool (5.8 C1+)
By: Matt Pickren When: Jul 18, 2012

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Comments: This tower was fun to put up, especially in an area where most towers have ben climbed.

However, with over a collective 300 towers between us, Ben and I agreed it was still the worst rock we have ever been on. Mar's Hotel was finally beat!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Small towers next to Echo a... : I Tower (5.9)
By: Matt Pickren When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: While leading this tower I found a drilled angle about 1/3rd of the way up which was actually too far down and right of my crack system to use. Gear was a single set of cams from .5 thru #3 camalot. Bill did in fact jug and rap off my counter-balance, however I slung the top and rapped off this.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Apes of Wrath (5.10) : Photo
By: Matt Pickren When: Jun 29, 2012

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Comments: ...and looking GOOD!


Location: UT : Moab Area : 191 South : Joe Wilson Canyon
By: Matt Pickren When: Jun 12, 2012

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Comments: Just curious as to who added the nice shiny bolts to Moby Dick's head in the last few months? I know there where no bolts earlier this spring. Is it now doable without the need of pins?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Cat in the Hat (5.6)
By: Matt Pickren When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: Condolences to the injury party. If anyone knows them, or they read this, I brought out your helmet, shirt, two slings, stopper and one 'biner. Please call@ 9709467237 and I will get the gear to you. Best of luck.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Canyon Rims Recreation Area : Raven (5.11+)
By: Matt Pickren When: Nov 6, 2011

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Comments: Matt, you're right, this is a great route, you sould get on it. I think it would be a good winter climb on a nice day. The route is due S facing and you could easily wait at your car until the sun hits you, make it down, climb it and out without ever loosing the sun. The hike it is one of the most casual gullies I've done in the desert. Simply hike to the south face and look for the shallow yet wide short chimney which turns into a R facing corner. From there it is relativey straight forward, f... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Moab Rim Area : Disappearing Angel : Satan's Revenge (5.12a PG13)
By: Matt Pickren When: Nov 6, 2011

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Comments: Climbed this route with Bill G. this past May. Amazing quality of mixed climbing. The crack is very good, solid, and challenging and the face climbing above is 5 stars. I would say the traverse is better and harder than Way Rambo.

I used a single rope and it was not that bad, just clip 24 inch runners on the bolts and leave your last cam low before the traverse. I believe I also reached low, after the traverse at the good stance, and removed a draw (I think this is the 2nd bolt?). All in all, ... more >>


Location: Bill Grasse : Photos : Photo
By: Matt Pickren When: Apr 30, 2011

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Comments: I love this photo. Definition of amazing times to come.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton : Eureka : White Trash (WI4+ M6)
By: Matt Pickren When: Feb 7, 2011

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Comments: This is my favorite route in Eureka. It is not a straight up ice climb for hundreds of feet. It will keep your attention on rock and thin ice. Get after it as I have never seen this climb form in the last 5 years. Enjoy!


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