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Member Since: Oct 20, 2010
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
Contact Matt N


Point Rank: # 1,793
Total Points: 325
Last Year: 149
Last 30 Days: 0
11 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Matt N been climbing?










Contributions


All 1379 | Routes 5 | Areas 1 | Photos 32 | Page Improvements | Comments 100 | Posts 935 | Stars 204 | Ratings 102
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Dozier Dome : Cheetos and Everclear (5.10a)
By: Matt N When: Aug 18, 2014

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Comments: Can rap down to the upper belay ledge with a single 70m and scramble down.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Demon Dome : Number of the Beast (5.8)
By: Matt N When: Jun 28, 2014

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Comments: The only bolt that gave me pause (besides rapping off the single w/ 1/4" quicklink from P3) was a pro bolt on P2 - it was like an oversized Leeper.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Merlin Dome : Magic Flute (5.8)
By: Matt N When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: Buttonheads with SMC hangers for just about all of them, IIRC.

Uploaded a pic, as I'd never seen a homestyled one of that ilk (see pic).


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Merlin Dome : Middle Dihedral (5.7)
By: Matt N When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: Looks like Merlin to me. Topped out Magic Flute and walking back to the base, we passed a few dihedrals/pillar systems. Merlin Dome was way wider than we thought.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Surrealistic Pillar (5.7)
By: Matt N When: Mar 22, 2014

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Comments: #4 is not useful, nor anything larger (same if linking with Corr. Corner) Both routes swallow nuts though.
Great linkup, awesome routes.


Location: Matt N : misc : Photo
By: Matt N When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: For a 'quad', you're supposed to clip 3 of the 4 strands. Also there were 3 oval biners. Definitely more overkill than most of my TR setups now.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Isles Corridor : Isles Corridor - Left Side : Crack 5 (5.9+)
By: Matt N When: Jan 23, 2014

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Comments: Painfully good!


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern... : Dirty Dishes (5.7)
By: Matt N When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: Good route - edgy and fairly sustained. Was happy to have all those bolts.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Free and Easy (5.7)
By: Matt N When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: You also cannot combine P2/3 with a 60m as I found out (I was wondering WTF that bolt was doing next to a solid cam placement - oh a, belay - oops passed that one).
Not sustained at all, I'd give it a 5.7- if MP let me, but a nice climb.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge
By: Matt N When: Jan 5, 2014

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Comments: Corey C - we climbed that route today. It has 5 bolts and an anchor. No idea who put it up, but pretty recent it seems. Also seemed like a worthwhile addition.

Also, anyone know about the bolts on the face left of Economique? Looks like two routes?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : South Astro Dome : ... : Hex Marks the Poot (5.8)
By: Matt N When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: If you saw this great splitter from a distance and just had to climb it, despite not having OW technique - you should tape your left ankle. Wish I did.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Isles in the Sky : Dolphin (5.7)
By: Matt N When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: The best reason to lead this, is to belay from atop and hear your followers curse and struggle (just like I did) right under you!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Nomad Dome : Willard (5.7)
By: Matt N When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: The 2-bolt rap anchor (south facing) can be used with a single 60m and an easy downclimb.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Nomad Dome : Last Angry Arab (5.6)
By: Matt N When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: Can be done in one pitch with a 60m. ~180-190' depending.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Sheep Pass CG Area : Wailing Sax Wall : Take Five (5.8)
By: Matt N When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: If you're tall enough, you can cinch the bolt stud before committing to that move. Great nut placement next to the stud also once you step up.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Right On (5.5 PG13)
By: Matt N When: Dec 13, 2013

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Comments: @ OlgaMP - its called multipitch trad, usually this involves a walkoff! Can't believe that's surprising. Its not that long and is very mellow for any Jtree descent.

@ Eric "Pig" Varley - "5.8 X" !!! haha
Thanks for making me feel like a badass for leading this early in my career, when I was a 5.8ish leader. (checked and I'd been leading trad ~7 months and this was my most committing lead for sure at the time)

This is getting to be a bit too much of a discussion. Maybe the mods can move some... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Paul's Paradise : ... : Poodle Bites (5.8- PG13)
By: Matt N When: Dec 7, 2013

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Comments: This route is worthy of an anchor upgrade for anyone up to it.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Tollhouse Rock : Sunday Slabs
By: Matt N When: Nov 25, 2013

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Comments: I found some poor clipping stances while leading a couple of these routes. Didn't make sense whether bolted ground up or 'preplaced'.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Tollhouse Rock : Sunday Slabs : Center Crack (5.7)
By: Matt N When: Nov 25, 2013

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Comments: Single set to #.75 and a set of nuts.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Tollhouse Rock : Sunday Slabs : Sevy (5.7+)
By: Matt N When: Nov 25, 2013

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Comments: You can place a nut and a cam (upward facing crack, though, for the cam) down left of your feet between bolts 1 and 2 - without you're looking at groundfall getting to the second bolt (poorly bolted as is the first on Directissima, IMO - not the runout, but bad clipping stances). Exciting lead. Corner (takes 0.3-1 BDs) was a welcome cruise after the slab.

Two bolt belay/rappel anchor where the upper corner meets the headwall (as indicated in the Slater guidebook) - one bolt with two rings, the... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Tollhouse Rock : Sunday Slabs : Directissima (5.7)
By: Matt N When: Nov 25, 2013

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Comments: I'd say a solid 40'+ to the first bolt (placed 4'+ too high so you can't clip from the easy stance also) - exciting for sure.

P1 anchor had a single small quicklink on each bolt. Not exactly a good setup for rapping.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : Table of Contents (5.10d R) : Photo
By: Matt N When: Nov 13, 2013

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Comments: All the holds are pointing the wrong way!!!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Overseer (5.9)
By: Matt N When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: From below, you can't tell how hard the move from the top of the flake to the crack is and you'll only have an iffy nut behind a hollow flake below you. Don't worry, the moves over are mellow.
Short crux with the most solid rock (ie and gear) on route, so it feels quite safe up there, but exposed and fun.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : The Weeping Wall : Serpentine (5.9-)
By: Matt N When: Oct 19, 2013

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Comments: P1 and 2 felt about the same difficulty-wise. Getting to the first bolt (and having to leave that nut placement) was the mental crux.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Low Profile Dome : Golfer's Route (5.7)
By: Matt N When: Sep 13, 2013

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Comments:
TRICAMS
TRICAMS



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