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VT125


Member Since: Apr 28, 2001
Last Visit: May 30, 2014
Contact Matt Juth


Point Rank: # 765
Total Points: 834
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Matt Juth been climbing?










Contributions


All 345 | Routes 29 | Areas 6 | Photos 66 | Page Improvements | Comments 124 | Posts | Stars 77 | Ratings 43
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Telegraph Road (5.11b)
By: Matt Juth When: Apr 3, 2008

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Comments: Ooohh Ya... I remember now.

I love that cool crack you are talking about. I was trying to make a route out of that when putting up "james" but really didn't have anywhere for it to go. Sounds like a really fun line from the ground up.

I can't believe it's been that long....


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Telegraph Road (5.11b)
By: Matt Juth When: Apr 2, 2008

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Comments: Interesting comment about a new route. When I was putting up Telegraph, I first tried to climb the slab to the right multiple times. there were a couple lines that went, but I always ended up feeling like I was working too close to the Winter Dreams. Also the climbing didn't seem to flow very well. I'm interested to see what was put in there?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : St. Vrain ice : East of Peak to Peak - S. S... : Road Rash (WI5+ M6)
By: Matt Juth When: Jan 12, 2007

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Comments: Bernard,

I'm jealous of you guys going up there. I have not been on rock since a Yosemite trip last September. I'm glad to hear you are still working on the place....you do realize you have to stop somewhere though.... You're not leaving room for any updated additions!

I'm going to be in the area for some contract work next week. I'll check out the crack for my curiosity. I hope my Bomber placements are all truly that...bomber!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : St. Vrain ice : East of Peak to Peak - S. S... : Road Rash (WI5+ M6)
By: Matt Juth When: Jan 11, 2007

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Comments: It's been along time since I was there. I remember the placement being in a small vertical pod adjacent to some hollow flakes, but not in them. I do not trust such placements (I've seen them blow), and I used that piece a couple times. Maybe something has fallen out...maybe I placed it somewhere a bit more hidden, maybe the crack I put it in has freeze/thawed and is now a hollow flake? Wherever I put it, it was bomber at the time. The first time I did that traverse I was concerned enough that I ... more >>


Location: CO : Fatality at the Garden of t...
By: Matt Juth When: Mar 8, 2006

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Comments: I'm surprised they didn't end the article with the typical "According to the El Paso County Sheriff, he was not wearing a helmet"...


Location: CO : Empire
By: Matt Juth When: Dec 30, 2005

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Comments: That flow comes in every year. Last year it was extremely fat for a few months, and then melted off Feb'ish. I climbed it a few years ago in WI3 ish conditions, but I've seen people leading it when it looked 5 or harder. I drove by it every day and saw maybe a dozen ascents last winter.

The key is get on it soon! This warm spell may have already erased it. It also tends to sublimate fast when it's too cold. Hit or miss...

There are also a couple flows that hang around on the big rock above. ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : The Grenadiers : Vestal Peak : Wham Ridge (5.4 R)
By: Matt Juth When: Aug 19, 2005

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Comments: Been a while, but I do remember it being a wonderful route in an amazing place. There are also a couple other good lines up the North Face


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome
By: Matt Juth When: Jun 4, 2005

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Comments: The hangers were there a month ago.... Which pitches are they missing from? There is another route right of fractured (Way at the North end). 4 Pitches 5.9. It's the first part of the 5.9+/10- route on Acid. Another 4 pitch 5.8 in between the two was going to be finshed this weekend but it's a bit soggy.


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Acid Rock : Charley Don't Surf (5.10d)
By: Matt Juth When: Jun 2, 2005

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Comments: Are they just before the crux? If so, I guess it makes for a good pitch of easy finger crack now....


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Acid Rock : The Divine Ms M. (5.9-)
By: Matt Juth When: May 5, 2005

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Comments: Did the "alternative start". It makes for a very good 3 or 4 pitch bolted route. All pitches are in the 9/9+ range.


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Acid Rock
By: Matt Juth When: Apr 27, 2005

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Comments: For some reason most of my description and directions are gone.....

The bridge has not been replaced! I didn't say that!

There is a log you can cross, with a handline north of the old bridge. You can get there by parking on the ridge just before you get to the old buried campground. You will see a "danger" sign, and a laminated piece of paper telling you that there is a log just east of the ridge top. Follow a trail along the top of the ridge, drop straight down to the river, and you will see ... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Left Infirmary Slab : Hamburger (5.10)
By: Matt Juth When: Apr 20, 2005

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Comments: Since you are probably the only other people on the planet to climb this, you and I are likely the concensus. I thought hard 5.10 maybe 11-? Hard to tell for something so short. Did you climb the other little crack around the corner to the right.? Another fun little thing if you are actually there.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Swift Rock
By: Matt Juth When: Apr 19, 2005

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Comments: When I was up there a couple years ago there were two routes. One bolted line went up the right side to the seam, then followed it up for a few feet, and finished with bolts on the arete. Felt like 9+. The other route ("Gardening with Powertools" in my notes) was started on the left side of the face (a few feet away from the dihedral). It was mostly moderate with a section of 5.11 about halfway up. From that point on there was white tape but no bolts. At the crux there was a small pod in the cra... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Swift Rock : Blue Swift (5.9+ R)
By: Matt Juth When: Apr 19, 2005

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Comments: Alvino Added a pin for the bolted route that now goes up the right side of the face. It looks like the crack was enlarged to make room for the piton.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Swift Rock
By: Matt Juth When: Apr 14, 2005

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Comments: Was the bolted route on the left ever finished? As of 2003, Alvino only had tape to mark the locations of the last few bolts. On TR the route appeared to be modified. A pocket was enlarged (possibly to place a piton?) and one crimp was questionable.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Direct Cop Out (5.10b)
By: Matt Juth When: Mar 24, 2005

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Comments: Well, Bob, unless someone is crazy enough to take over this site (I hope someone is...), you can finally put up routes in peace. I've always enjoyed your work and would like to say thanks.

To all you ACs out there, you'll have to go find a new site to slowly degrade. SuperTaco's pretty racy I hear!


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Tales of Power (5.11b)
By: Matt Juth When: Mar 7, 2005

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Comments: Fantastic climb. I was going to skip the second pitch, but it looked sooo good. Although a completely different character, it was equally enjoyable.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Drop Zone (5.10b)
By: Matt Juth When: Mar 7, 2005

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Comments: After doing a bunch of 5.10 piches in Dream and BC, I think this one is in the 10+/11- range for me. Might be the good ol' height factor mentioned earlier. Either way, it is a great climb that shouldn't be missed if you are walking by.


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Bali Dome : Island Express (5.7)
By: Matt Juth When: Mar 5, 2005

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Comments: It was not a challenge for me either, but that doesn't make it a bomb! It was a great slab climbing intro for my follower. Good rock and a great line, what more do you expect out of a 5.7 slab? Should it be hard for a 5.11 climber?

P1 is 60 feet not 150. Also it should have been listed as an R rated climb since you have 3 bolts for over 200 feet of climbing.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Telegraph Road (5.11b)
By: Matt Juth When: Feb 22, 2005

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Comments: Ken,

I haven't been up there quite a few months so here is the best that I remember.

I traverse out with my feet on the ledge a few feet until I can clip the bolt. Using a mediocre sidepull to the right, and underclinging the little 1-2" ovelap overhead (with my thumb?), I deadpoint up to a 1/2" x 6 inch horizontal edge above the roof (The move is more static for taller folks). One I get the edge I just throw my feet as high as I can get them and reach up to the good holds above.

The edge th... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Life After James (5.11b)
By: Matt Juth When: Feb 15, 2005

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Comments: Thanks for the comments.

The climb is the "Ranklands of Infinity". It is 5.10 with some decent climbing in the middle, but a dirty start. You can do it a couple ways, but overall it is fairly poor quality. I would climb any of the other cracks up there before that one.

No one I have talked to knows who put in any of the three bolts. The anchors are in a pretty useless spot. I've thought about removing them since the LAJ anchors are 10 feet away.

If you go back up there, Gene and Georges wit... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Tourette's (WI4- M6)
By: Matt Juth When: Feb 8, 2005

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Comments: This line is getting a bit overclimbed. A lot of the hooks are now pick width gouges giving it a manufactured feel. The 3" ledge below the ice is also shedding a few chunks. Gotta love the soft stone!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : 8mm (M7)
By: Matt Juth When: Feb 8, 2005

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Comments: Great route. A lot better than Tourette's. The ice is thicker now than during the FA. You can get a stubby in lower, making it useful...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Slow Train Coming (5.11a)
By: Matt Juth When: Dec 21, 2004

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Comments: Beautiful face climbing! A little spicy on the easier rock on the second half of the pitch, but safe and enjoyable throughout.


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Squat Rock : Urban Development (5.10b)
By: Matt Juth When: Nov 11, 2004

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Comments: Great for 15 feet....


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