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Happy Turk!!


Member Since: Mar 11, 2012
Last Visit: 4 days ago
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Point Rank: # 10,884
Total Points: 19
Last Year: 14
Last 30 Days: 2
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 39 | Routes | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 9 | Posts 24 | Stars 4 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon : Day Canyon Cragging Routes : Brush Painted Datsun (5.10b)
By: Hockman When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Anyone know anything about a second pitch?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Pale Fire (5.12b)
By: Hockman When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Single 70m rope gets you down.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lost World Butte Area : Tombstone : Rigor Mortis (5.9 C2)
By: Hockman When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: Rappel Beta*****

As A. Roberts said:

"We had trouble pulling the ropes from the top, it would be helpful if someone were to extend the anchors over the edge."

Well so did we.

I left a double length runner and a locking carabiner extending the anchor at the top of the route. (After jugging our lines TWICE because they wouldn't pull).

The bolts (2) on the top are suspect. They need to be replaced. Both are protruding about an inch out of the rock leaving the hangers loose and flapping arou... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Three Gossips : Be There or Be Talked About (5.11 C1)
By: Hockman When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: ROUTE BETA****

Few things:

Gear- Bring a single rack up to .5 Camalot. triples of .75 to #2 Camalot. (Maybe a #3?) Bring a #4 through #6 Camalot FOR THE FIRST PITCH. (You won't need the big gear for the V-Slot Second pitch- just leave it on the plush ledge above the P1 OW).

Rappel- Bring a 60M tag line and leave it on the ledge atop the P1 OW. From there climb with a 70M line to summit and complete 2 raps from the summit back down to the ledge where you left your tag ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Predator Tower : Reign of Terror (5.11a)
By: Hockman When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: So here's the deal:

Word on the street is that Predator is actually NOT on the weird private property marked off by all the signs.

Apparently the guy who owns that property is different from the people who have the trailer and Teepee you will see off to the right (north?) when approaching the tower.

My buddy and I were planning on going back out there at some point soon. I can't speak 100% of the safety/legality/"kosherness" of climbing Predator, but it seems like it should go.

I would st... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Predator Tower : Reign of Terror (5.11a)
By: Hockman When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: @ Mr. K

I second the comment about the "weirdness". My buddy and I went to try and climb Predator today but it ended up being a bust. Here's what happened:

We hiked across "the field" heading from Kane Creek rd directly to Predator Tower, and about 200-300m before the tower we encountered a series of No Trespassing signs. They were all supported by rocks stacked about 2 ft high (sort of like a big cairn) and all read "Posted No Trespassing, Keep Out". The signs were lined up in a row heading s... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Three Penguins : Right Chimney (5.10+)
By: Hockman When: Feb 19, 2014

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Comments: RAPPEL BETA**

So I've found after doing this climb a few times it's quite nice to double rope rap (70's) straight down to the road from the summit. 2 60's might work as well? Can somebody let me know.

It's nice to skip the down hike by adding the extra rap.

Also, 1 70m rope gets you from the summit back down to the ledge easily, as stated.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Great Wall : Chinese Eyes (5.9+)
By: Hockman When: Feb 19, 2014

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Comments: Approach BETA*****

To approach these climbs park near the bridge that crosses Courthouse Wash.

Hike up Courthouse Wash until you reach the prominent buttress which hosts climbs like "Chinese Eyes". Cut right at/near the base of the wall and the climbs are obvious.

Do NOT tromp through the "field" of crypto from one of the pullouts after crossing Courthouse Wash. There is no established trail and the washes are sparse and scattered. Much easier to simply hike up CW.

Cheers.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Great Wall
By: Hockman When: Feb 19, 2014

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Comments: Approach BETA*****

To approach these climbs park near the bridge that crosses Courthouse Wash.

Hike up Courthouse Wash until you reach the prominent buttress which hosts climbs like "Chinese Eyes". Cut right at/near the base of the wall and the climbs are obvious.

Do NOT tromp through the "field" of crypto from one of the pullouts after crossing Courthouse Wash. There is no established trail and the washes are sparse and scattered. Much easier to simply hike up CW.

Cheers.