Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Nov 19, 2008
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
Contact Matt Glue


Point Rank: # 5,013
Total Points: 76
Last Year: 44
Last 30 Days: 5
0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Matt Glue been climbing?










Contributions


All 152 | Routes | Areas | Photos 9 | Page Improvements | Comments 31 | Posts 80 | Stars 28 | Ratings 4
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Sheep Rock : Virgin Wool (5.10- C2+)
By: Matt Glue When: May 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Did this on Monday. P3 is on par with the best of Zenyatta Entrada! Yep, a triple set of offset micronuts for the first half of P3. More if you don't backclean, or just extras around the green/purple Peenut size. The occasional drilled angle and larger cam is very appreciated. Then doubles/triples in small TCUs/C3s for the second half.

Someone with small fingers could think about freeing the second half of P3. Maybe that's why all those drilled pitons are up there? I was wondering how well a C3... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Face (5.11b)
By: Matt Glue When: May 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: For P2, make the sure the leader minds the follower. Put a piece in just after pulling the 2nd crux (getting out of the pod and into the super-secure wide section). With no pro in the super-secure wide thing, a fall getting into it would pendulum and grate the rope all across its jagged edge.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Phallus : SW Face (5.9 C3 R)
By: Matt Glue When: May 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Tried this on 4/8. I had led a few pitches of C2 and under, and figured I'd try a C3. Wow! Big mistake. 2 hours of utter terror to go the 30 feet above the free climbing. I bailed at the bolts; my mind was totally fried. Did Zenyatta Endtrada the next day with no problem. Big difference between C2+ and C3. Maybe someday...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)
By: Matt Glue When: May 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Did this on 4/9. Second real aid line, after Playing Hooky on the Tombstone and a few towers around Moab. So awesome! This climb showed me that aid climbing is fun! P4 was especially memorable. High-stepping off of the terrible tricam to reach the bolt before the anchor, then having it fall out as I stepped off, was one of the most elating climbing moments of my life.

I definitely came across many scars that wouldn't take nuts or cams of any kind - only tricams, and bad ones at that. Either I'm... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Black Jack Boulder : Black Jack Crack (5.10d V2)
By: Matt Glue When: Sep 30, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: If it were twice as long, it would be known throughout the country. As is, it's a Northeast classic. If you have a rack of cams and are at Rumney, just do this.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : Holderness Corner : Holderness School Corner (5.8)
By: Matt Glue When: Sep 29, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Single rack to #3 will get it done, but save your big cams for the top or be ready for a big runout.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Fastest Gun (5.10b)
By: Matt Glue When: Aug 28, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The climbing around the bolt and the clip itself didn't feel too insecure to me, but I did take my damn time to figure it out (or I just stumbled into the right beta). And for the roof on P4, I placed something next to the manky fixed cam, and then got in a solid small cam at the very end of the roof crack.

Okay, that's enough discussion and beta for anybody who wants to try this route! If anyone wants the climb to be adventurous, ignore the above four posts. Ha...


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Fastest Gun (5.10b)
By: Matt Glue When: Aug 27, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I led it the day before Colin (hey dude!) and pretty much agree with Mark. I had various RPs and doubles down to micro-cams, and P3 never felt that runout (got in 2 solid RPs ~10 ft below the bolt). Maybe on the 5.6 part, but that's pretty normal all across the northeast on a route 2+ grades harder.

And yeah, bring water! Should have been obvious on a 500-foot climb, but I ended up flailing all over the last pitch despite gliding up the rest and (IMO) knowing how to climb dihedrals. My toes wer... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Wilmington Notch - High Fal... : Multiplication Gully (WI3+)
By: Matt Glue When: May 21, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: With a 70m rope it can just barely be done in a single pitch.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Decay's Way (5.7+ R)
By: Matt Glue When: Nov 14, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: A 6" cam can be walked up most of the climb, while you fiddle in sometimes marginal gear along the way.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks Region : Mt. Colden : The Trap Dike(winter) (WI2 Easy Snow)
By: Matt Glue When: Dec 6, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Irene took out all vegetation in the dike. Don't expect any tree anchors.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks Region : Mt. Colden : Trap Dike (summer) (4th)
By: Matt Glue When: Nov 6, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed it today, exiting via the new slide. This was my first time doing it. Like the previous link said, all trees and other vegetation in the dike are gone. It was also chossy enough that we wished we'd brought helmets.

We kept looking for an exit out right but never saw something that looked enticing. Not sure if Irene changed that or if we didn't look hard enough (probably the latter).

We ended up exiting onto the new slide. There were a couple of ways to get up on it; both had... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Below the New Wave
By: Matt Glue When: Oct 24, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Wear a helmet at this crag! It's very easy to knock rocks off of the ground at New Wave and onto Below New Wave.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bridge Area : Maranatha Area : Maranatha (5.10c)
By: Matt Glue When: Oct 17, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: I had to run it out going past the hueco. Easy terrain, but would have been a nasty pendulum, ending < 10 feet from the deck. Maybe I missed something, or maybe I should have climbed straight up and off-route for some pro, or maybe that's just the New. :)

Fun route though! The start crux is burly and the end crux is tricky, but both are well-protected.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Long Wall : Autumn (5.9-)
By: Matt Glue When: Oct 17, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Great climb. I would consider pretty runout without doubles in #2 and/or #3


Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Left : Man With a Hueco in His Tig... (5.11b)
By: Matt Glue When: Aug 9, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Awesome route! The new guidebook calls it 11a. I would agree, especially if you know how to handjam.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Upper Washbowl Cliff : Overture (5.10a)
By: Matt Glue When: Aug 8, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: It's been a couple of years since I followed this. I have yet to return to lead it but Greg is right. I've never felt more exposed in my life. High E at the Gunks doesn't even come close. Be ready for a thrill, and bring your prusiks!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Apoplexy (5.9) : Photo
By: Matt Glue When: Aug 3, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Hah, the mental crux. You want there to be a more positive hold so there's less risk of falling on the flake gear (or the near-ground fall if you didn't put gear behind the flake), but that's all you get!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Region : The Barkeater Cliff : Mr. Clean (5.8)
By: Matt Glue When: Jul 10, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: If it didn't ease up for the last half, it would be one of the best routes in the Dacks. But I'm partial to splitters :)


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Chapel Pond Slab : Regular Route (5.5 PG13)
By: Matt Glue When: Jul 5, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Catch it dry and the cave finish is awesome! The ~5.7 move out of the cave/chimney is hard to figure out and exposed but well-protected (save your bigger cams).


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Rockaholic (5.8)
By: Matt Glue When: Jul 3, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Greg - Agreed, that thing is dead. I didn't want to rap off it, let alone TR. The climbing above it to the trees at the topout is easy but really unenjoyable. Too bad.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Hans' Puss (5.7)
By: Matt Glue When: Jun 19, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Robert: To rappel from the GT Ledge, the nearest rap station is about 200 feet to climber's left.

Awesome climb. Did anyone else find the second pitch worse than just PG?


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Indian Creek : Jim's Dihedral (5.10a)
By: Matt Glue When: Dec 6, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: The bottom is weird and the finish is a bit runout and weird. But the climbing between is impeccable and not to be missed. On a 5/5 scale I'd give it a 4. But on a 4/4 scale I'll round it up to 4 :)


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Indian Creek : Crack Attack (5.9+)
By: Matt Glue When: Oct 25, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Awesome climb! Wish it went on forever :) Yea, can be done with 2 each of #1, #2, #3. But the more #2s the better...


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Funk Rock City : Rite of Passage (5.9+ PG13)
By: Matt Glue When: Oct 17, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Finger-sized Aliens/Mastercams help with the finish.


Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>