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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Wilmington Notch - High Fal... : Multiplication Gully (WI3+)
By: Matt Glue When: 12 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: With a 70m rope (or better yet, two) it can just barely be done in a single pitch.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Decay's Way (5.7+ R)
By: Matt Glue When: Nov 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A 6" cam can be walked up most of the climb, while you fiddle in sometimes marginal gear along the way.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Mt. Colden : The Trap Dike(winter) (WI2 Easy Snow)
By: Matt Glue When: Dec 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Irene took out all vegetation in the dike. Don't expect any tree anchors.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Mt. Colden : Trap Dike (summer) (4th)
By: Matt Glue When: Nov 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed it today, exiting via the new slide. This was my first time doing it. Like the previous link said, all trees and other vegetation in the dike are gone. It was also chossy enough that we wished we'd brought helmets.
We kept looking for an exit out right but never saw something that looked enticing. Not sure if Irene changed that or if we didn't look hard enough (probably the latter).
We ended up exiting onto the new slide. There were a couple of ways to get up on it; both had... more >>
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Location: NH : Rumney : Below the New Wave
By: Matt Glue When: Oct 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wear a helmet at this crag! It's very easy to knock rocks off of the ground at New Wave and onto Below New Wave.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : The Bridge Area Crags : South Bridge Area : Maranatha (5.10c)
By: Matt Glue When: Oct 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had to run it out going past the hueco. Easy terrain, but would have been a nasty pendulum, ending < 10 feet from the deck. Maybe I missed something, or maybe I should have climbed straight up and off-route for some pro, or maybe that's just the New. :)
Fun route though! The start crux is burly and the end crux is tricky, but both are well-protected.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Long Wall : Autumn (5.9-)
By: Matt Glue When: Oct 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb. I would consider pretty runout without doubles in #2 and/or #3
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Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Left : Man With a Hueco in His Tig... (5.11b)
By: Matt Glue When: Aug 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome route! The new guidebook calls it 11a. I would agree, especially if you know how to handjam.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Upper Washbowl Cliff : Overture (5.10a)
By: Matt Glue When: Aug 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's been a couple of years since I followed this. I have yet to return to lead it but Greg is right. I've never felt more exposed in my life. High E at the Gunks doesn't even come close. Be ready for a thrill, and bring your prusiks!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Apoplexy (5.9) : Photo
By: Matt Glue When: Aug 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hah, the mental crux. You want there to be a more positive hold so there's less risk of falling on the flake gear (or the near-ground fall if you didn't put gear behind the flake), but that's all you get!
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : The Barkeater Cliff : Mr. Clean (5.8)
By: Matt Glue When: Jul 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: If it didn't ease up for the last half, it would be one of the best routes in the Dacks. But I'm partial to splitters :)
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Chapel Pond Slab : Regular Route (5.5 PG13)
By: Matt Glue When: Jul 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Catch it dry and the cave finish is awesome! The ~5.7 move out of the cave/chimney is hard to figure out and exposed but well-protected (save your bigger cams).
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls : Rockaholic (5.8)
By: Matt Glue When: Jul 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Greg - Agreed, that thing is dead. I didn't want to rap off it, let alone TR. The climbing above it to the trees at the topout is easy but really unenjoyable. Too bad.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Hans' Puss (5.7)
By: Matt Glue When: Jun 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Robert: To rappel from the GT Ledge, the nearest rap station is about 200 feet to climber's left.
Awesome climb. Did anyone else find the second pitch worse than just PG?
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Indian Creek : Jim's Dihedral (5.10a)
By: Matt Glue When: Dec 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bottom is weird and the finish is a bit runout and weird. But the climbing between is impeccable and not to be missed. On a 5/5 scale I'd give it a 4. But on a 4/4 scale I'll round it up to 4 :)
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Indian Creek : Crack Attack (5.9+)
By: Matt Glue When: Oct 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome climb! Wish it went on forever :) Yea, can be done with 2 each of #1, #2, #3. But the more #2s the better...
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Funk Rock City : Rite of Passage (5.9+ PG13)
By: Matt Glue When: Oct 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Finger-sized Aliens/Mastercams help with the finish.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Funk Rock City : Veldhaus Route (5.8)
By: Matt Glue When: Oct 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dirty but worth more than one star. The finish and the sequence pulling the overhanging flake coming off the ledge both felt Gunks-y.
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Location: NY : Little Falls : The Dihedrals
By: Matt Glue When: Sep 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stopped by here for an afternoon this weekend and found out that the owner, Michael, is charging a camping fee of $10/head for access to his property. This goes for both the Dihedrals and the Wind Wall. Please give his cell a call at 315-219-9127 before heading over. He will gladly make the one-minute drive to the parking lot to collect. Not sure what to do if he doesn't answer though...
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Casual Observer (5.11a)
By: Matt Glue When: Aug 16, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't climb too high at the crux! I thought it was noticeably easier if you start moving left a bit below the last bolt on the right.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls : Labatt-Ami (5.7)
By: Matt Glue When: Aug 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can skip the #4 and extra #3 and call it PG; there are smaller placements in the ledge just under the roof crack. But do save your larger pieces!
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Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Clip a Dee Doo Dah (5.3)
By: Matt Glue When: May 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you are near Jimmy Cliff/Waimea at the end of the day, finish off with this! Simulclimb or solo to speed things up. Two 70s will get you down in one rap, but it's really just as fast to walk off.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Cascading Crystal Kaleidosc... (5.8 PG13)
By: Matt Glue When: Apr 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just climbed it using Dick Williams' directions, option #2. I took just a single (crouched) step right from the stance, going up the bulging right side of the overhang, not any appreciable distance from the purple Camalot. I'm 6' and had to reach far and search to find the magic hold that makes it work.
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