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Member Since: Nov 19, 2008
Last Visit: 12 hours ago
Contact Matt Glue


Point Rank: # 3,660
Total Points: 116
Last Year: 88
Last 30 Days: 5
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Matt Glue been climbing?










Contributions


All 147 | Routes | Areas | Photos 14 | Page Improvments | Comments 31 | Posts 70 | Stars 28 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Zion shorts, size L

Zion shorts, size L

FOR SALE / Wanted : Huge gear purge! Jackets, b...

Jun 26, 2014

This rock moves! The entire chunk of rock in front of him. Careful.

This rock moves! The entire chunk of rock in front of him. Careful.

UT : Moab Area : ... : Virgin Wool (5.10- C2+)

May 29, 2014

Typical placement on P3 of Virgin Wool.

Typical placement on P3 of Virgin Wool.

UT : Moab Area : ... : Virgin Wool (5.10- C2+)

May 29, 2014

Generic Gore-Tex gloves.

Generic Gore-Tex gloves.

FOR SALE / Wanted : Huge gear purge! Jackets, b...

May 19, 2014

TNF insulated HyVent shell jacket, size L.

TNF insulated HyVent shell jacket, size L.

FOR SALE / Wanted : Huge gear purge! Jackets, b...

May 19, 2014

Marmot Sharp Point softshell, size L.

Marmot Sharp Point softshell, size L.

FOR SALE / Wanted : Huge gear purge! Jackets, b...

May 19, 2014

Patagonia Fitz Roy jacket, size L. A few years of use, but in great shape.

Patagonia Fitz Roy jacket, size L. A few years of use, but in great shape.

FOR SALE / Wanted : Huge gear purge! Jackets, b...

May 19, 2014

MH Compressor pants, size L. Used once.

MH Compressor pants, size L. Used once.

FOR SALE / Wanted : Huge gear purge! Jackets, b...

May 19, 2014

Misc. stuff.

Misc. stuff.

FOR SALE / Wanted : Huge gear purge! Jackets, b...

May 19, 2014

BD Mercury Mitts, size L. Great shape.

BD Mercury Mitts, size L. Great shape.

FOR SALE / Wanted : Huge gear purge! Jackets, b...

May 19, 2014

LS Makalus, size 45. Used once.

LS Makalus, size 45. Used once.

FOR SALE / Wanted : Huge gear purge! Jackets, b...

May 19, 2014

Nearing the P4 anchors on Zenyatta Entrada. Photo credit: John Nollendorfs.

Nearing the P4 anchors on Zenyatta Entrada. Photo credit: John Nollendorfs.

UT : Moab Area : ... : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)

May 8, 2014

As high as we got on The Phallus.

As high as we got on The Phallus.

UT : Moab Area : ... : SW Face (5.9 C3 R)

May 8, 2014

In need of a Labatt-Ami...

In need of a Labatt-Ami...

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Labatt-Ami (5.7)

Aug 12, 2010

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Sheep Rock : Virgin Wool (5.10- C2+)
By: Matt Glue When: May 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Did this on Monday. P3 is on par with the best of Zenyatta Entrada! Yep, a triple set of offset micronuts for the first half of P3. More if you don't backclean, or just extras around the green/purple Peenut size. The occasional drilled angle and larger cam is very appreciated. Then doubles/triples in small TCUs/C3s for the second half.

Someone with small fingers could think about freeing the second half of P3. Maybe that's why all those drilled pitons are up there? I was wondering how well a C3... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Face (5.11b)
By: Matt Glue When: May 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: For P2, make the sure the leader minds the follower. Put a piece in just after pulling the 2nd crux (getting out of the pod and into the super-secure wide section). With no pro in the super-secure wide thing, a fall getting into it would pendulum and grate the rope all across its jagged edge.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Phallus : SW Face (5.9 C3 R)
By: Matt Glue When: May 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Tried this on 4/8. I had led a few pitches of C2 and under, and figured I'd try a C3. Wow! Big mistake. 2 hours of utter terror to go the 30 feet above the free climbing. I bailed at the bolts; my mind was totally fried. Did Zenyatta Endtrada the next day with no problem. Big difference between C2+ and C3. Maybe someday...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)
By: Matt Glue When: May 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Did this on 4/9. Second real aid line, after Playing Hooky on the Tombstone and a few towers around Moab. So awesome! This climb showed me that aid climbing is fun! P4 was especially memorable. High-stepping off of the terrible tricam to reach the bolt before the anchor, then having it fall out as I stepped off, was one of the most elating climbing moments of my life.

I definitely came across many scars that wouldn't take nuts or cams of any kind - only tricams, and bad ones at that. Either I'm... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Black Jack Boulder : Black Jack Crack (5.10d V2)
By: Matt Glue When: Sep 30, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: If it were twice as long, it would be known throughout the country. As is, it's a Northeast classic. If you have a rack of cams and are at Rumney, just do this.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : Holderness Corner : Holderness School Corner (5.8)
By: Matt Glue When: Sep 29, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Single rack to #3 will get it done, but save your big cams for the top or be ready for a big runout.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Fastest Gun (5.10b)
By: Matt Glue When: Aug 28, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The climbing around the bolt and the clip itself didn't feel too insecure to me, but I did take my damn time to figure it out (or I just stumbled into the right beta). And for the roof on P4, I placed something next to the manky fixed cam, and then got in a solid small cam at the very end of the roof crack.

Okay, that's enough discussion and beta for anybody who wants to try this route! If anyone wants the climb to be adventurous, ignore the above four posts. Ha...


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Fastest Gun (5.10b)
By: Matt Glue When: Aug 27, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I led it the day before Colin (hey dude!) and pretty much agree with Mark. I had various RPs and doubles down to micro-cams, and P3 never felt that runout (got in 2 solid RPs ~10 ft below the bolt). Maybe on the 5.6 part, but that's pretty normal all across the northeast on a route 2+ grades harder.

And yeah, bring water! Should have been obvious on a 500-foot climb, but I ended up flailing all over the last pitch despite gliding up the rest and (IMO) knowing how to climb dihedrals. My toes wer... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Wilmington Notch - High Fal... : Multiplication Gully (WI3+)
By: Matt Glue When: May 21, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: With a 70m rope it can just barely be done in a single pitch.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Decay's Way (5.7+ R)
By: Matt Glue When: Nov 14, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: A 6" cam can be walked up most of the climb, while you fiddle in sometimes marginal gear along the way.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Mt. Colden : The Trap Dike(winter) (WI2 Easy Snow)
By: Matt Glue When: Dec 6, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Irene took out all vegetation in the dike. Don't expect any tree anchors.


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