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Member Since: Nov 19, 2008
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Matt Glue

Point Rank: # 4,326
Total Points: 106
Last Year: 75
Last 30 Days: 35
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Matt Glue been climbing?










Contributions


All 144 | Routes | Areas | Photos 15 | Page Improvements | Comments 31 | Posts 66 | Stars 28 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
North Face Fire Road trail running shoes. Size 11....

North Face Fire Road trail running shoes. Size 11.5.

FOR SALE / Wanted : Softshells, trail running s...

Apr 29, 2015

North Face Fire Road trail running shoes. Size 11....

North Face Fire Road trail running shoes. Size 11.5.

FOR SALE / Wanted : Softshells, trail running s...

Apr 29, 2015

North Face Hedgehog GTX running shoes.

North Face Hedgehog GTX running shoes.

FOR SALE / Wanted : Softshells, trail running s...

Apr 29, 2015

North Face Hedgehog GTX running shoes.

North Face Hedgehog GTX running shoes.

FOR SALE / Wanted : Softshells, trail running s...

Apr 29, 2015

Lift ski baskets - Really really help to deal with...

Lift ski baskets - Really really help to deal with heel lifters on Marker and tele bindings. Not necessary for Dynafit. Used one day.

FOR SALE / Wanted : Softshells, trail running s...

Apr 29, 2015

backcountry.com Shift softshell 1/4 zip. Great sha...

backcountry.com Shift softshell 1/4 zip. Great shape! Size L.

FOR SALE / Wanted : Softshells, trail running s...

Apr 29, 2015

Marmot Sharp Point softshell. Good shape. Size L.

Marmot Sharp Point softshell. Good shape. Size L.

FOR SALE / Wanted : Softshells, trail running s...

Apr 29, 2015

Small slab slide just above penultimate bulge on B...

Small slab slide just above penultimate bulge on Black Lake Slabs, 2015-03-14.

Colorado : The 2014-2015 Colorado Ice ... : Post

Mar 16, 2015

Small slab slide just above penultimate bulge on B...

Small slab slide just above penultimate bulge on Black Lake Slabs, 2015-03-14.

Colorado : The 2014-2015 Colorado Ice ... : Post

Mar 16, 2015

AMU, 2015-03-15.

AMU, 2015-03-15.

Colorado : The 2014-2015 Colorado Ice ... : Post

Mar 16, 2015

This rock moves! The entire chunk of rock in front...

This rock moves! The entire chunk of rock in front of him. Careful.

UT : Moab Area : ... : Virgin Wool (5.10- C2+)

May 29, 2014

Typical placement on P3 of Virgin Wool.

Typical placement on P3 of Virgin Wool.

UT : Moab Area : ... : Virgin Wool (5.10- C2+)

May 29, 2014

Nearing the P4 anchors on Zenyatta Entrada. Photo ...

Nearing the P4 anchors on Zenyatta Entrada. Photo credit: John Nollendorfs.

UT : Moab Area : ... : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)

May 8, 2014

As high as we got on The Phallus.

As high as we got on The Phallus.

UT : Moab Area : ... : SW Face (5.9 C3 R)

May 8, 2014

In need of a Labatt-Ami...

In need of a Labatt-Ami...

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Labatt-Ami (5.7)

Aug 12, 2010

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Desert Shield Buttress : Desert Shield (5.11a C3)
By: Matt Glue When: Mar 25, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Great route! With the right rack though, only the very end of P8 is C3. Maybe even C2+. One hook to small offset cam to either 5.9 free move or another hook, then 5.6.

3 - 5 sets offset micros (depending on how much backcleaning you can do)
1 - 2 sets offset aluminum (same)
1 - 2 sets offset cams (same)
2 grappling hooks
1 set medium nuts (we used em and they were great)
double set of cams, micro through #3
1x #4
medium tricams also would have been nice

The bolt on P8 is currently ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Sheep Rock : Virgin Wool (5.10- C2+)
By: Matt Glue When: May 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Did this on Monday. P3 is on par with the best of Zenyatta Entrada! Yep, a triple set of offset micronuts for the first half of P3. More if you don't backclean, or just extras around the green/purple Peenut size. The occasional drilled angle and larger cam is very appreciated. Then doubles/triples in small TCUs/C3s for the second half.

Someone with small fingers could think about freeing the second half of P3. Maybe that's why all those drilled pitons are up there? I was wondering how well a C3... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Face (5.11b)
By: Matt Glue When: May 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: For P2, make the sure the leader minds the follower. Put a piece in just after pulling the 2nd crux (getting out of the pod and into the super-secure wide section). With no pro in the super-secure wide thing, a fall getting into it would pendulum and grate the rope all across its jagged edge.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Phallus : SW Face (5.9 C3 R)
By: Matt Glue When: May 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Tried this on 4/8. I had led a few pitches of C2 and under, and figured I'd try a C3. Wow! Big mistake. 2 hours of utter terror to go the 30 feet above the free climbing. I bailed at the bolts; my mind was totally fried. Did Zenyatta Endtrada the next day with no problem. Big difference between C2+ and C3. Maybe someday...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)
By: Matt Glue When: May 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Did this on 4/9. Second real aid line, after Playing Hooky on the Tombstone and a few towers around Moab. So awesome! This climb showed me that aid climbing is fun! P4 was especially memorable. High-stepping off of the terrible tricam to reach the bolt before the anchor, then having it fall out as I stepped off, was one of the most elating climbing moments of my life.

I definitely came across many scars that wouldn't take nuts or cams of any kind - only tricams, and bad ones at that. Either I'm... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Black Jack Boulder : Black Jack Crack (5.10d V2)
By: Matt Glue When: Sep 30, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: If it were twice as long, it would be known throughout the country. As is, it's a Northeast classic. If you have a rack of cams and are at Rumney, just do this.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : Holderness Corner : Holderness School Corner (5.8)
By: Matt Glue When: Sep 29, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Single rack to #3 will get it done, but save your big cams for the top or be ready for a big runout.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Fastest Gun (5.10b)
By: Matt Glue When: Aug 28, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The climbing around the bolt and the clip itself didn't feel too insecure to me, but I did take my damn time to figure it out (or I just stumbled into the right beta). And for the roof on P4, I placed something next to the manky fixed cam, and then got in a solid small cam at the very end of the roof crack.

Okay, that's enough discussion and beta for anybody who wants to try this route! If anyone wants the climb to be adventurous, ignore the above four posts. Ha...


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Fastest Gun (5.10b)
By: Matt Glue When: Aug 27, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I led it the day before Colin (hey dude!) and pretty much agree with Mark. I had various RPs and doubles down to micro-cams, and P3 never felt that runout (got in 2 solid RPs ~10 ft below the bolt). Maybe on the 5.6 part, but that's pretty normal all across the northeast on a route 2+ grades harder.

And yeah, bring water! Should have been obvious on a 500-foot climb, but I ended up flailing all over the last pitch despite gliding up the rest and (IMO) knowing how to climb dihedrals. My toes wer... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Wilmington Notch - High Fal... : Multiplication Gully (WI3+)
By: Matt Glue When: May 21, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: With a 70m rope it can just barely be done in a single pitch.


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