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Member Since: Dec 7, 2007
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Matt Desenberg
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Point Rank: # 2,661
Total Points: 224
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 1
7 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 223 | Routes 6 | Areas | Photos 17 | Page Improvements | Comments 79 | Posts 23 | Stars 60 | Ratings 38
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : WM: Bartlett Area : White's Ledge : Endeavour (5.7+)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Aug 21, 2015

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Comments: Not a great route. Way more shrubs and whatnot than I would have expected.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Shit Howdy : Risk Brothers Roof (5.11a)
By: Matt Desenberg When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: More of a thrutch than I was expecting, but really fun climbing.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Mount Watkins : South Face (5.9 C2+ PG13)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Apr 28, 2015

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Comments: How were the bolts and fixed gear? I'm planning to get on this in the spring and I've heard the ladders are in rough shape


Location: NH : *Whitehorse Ledge : 2. South Buttress : Atlantis Area : Tranquility (5.10b)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: Great pitch!!


Location: NH : WM: North Conway : Humphrey's Ledge : The Cake Walk Area : Above and Beyond (5.9+)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Jun 29, 2014

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Comments: Very fun!


Location: NH : *Rumney : Bonsai : Social Distortion (5.12a/b)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: I thought this was better than its neighbor. The dyno to the lip is really fun.

I'm tall and it felt like .12a. I thought the crux was harder than social outcast, but still .12a


Location: NH : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Scene of the Crime (5.10a)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Jun 15, 2014

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Comments: Better than Armed and Dangerous


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Touchstone Wall (5.9 C2)
By: Matt Desenberg When: May 7, 2014

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Comments: Pitch 1 and 2 seemed like the only "true" aid pitches. Pitch three has a stout beginning but I wish I'd free'd it. My partner said the same thing about pitch 4; best to try to free as much as you can because it is a long one. For the aid bits around the crappy fixed pin, we wish we'd had another few more medium offset nuts aside from a full set.

I led P5 to the top and a double rack of cams and a few nuts felt right on for the upper section. The upper free climbing is super fun!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Eagle Crag : Tooele Tower (5.10a)
By: Matt Desenberg When: May 7, 2014

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Comments: Such a fun route!
The first pitch is very laid back and felt 5.8
Pitch two had a tricky move in the finger crack that felt like the .10a crux of the route.
The last pitch is supposedly .10a as well, but there are two ways to do it. Going left of the bolts (there is no pin, I think the Supertopo said something about a pin...) was a bit dicey, but going to the right made it more like 5.9. Either way, it's not harder than .10a

Rock quality was great, and the summit is very cool with great views. I... more >>


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - East Face : Southeast Corner : Bee Sting Corner (5.7)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Feb 25, 2014

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Comments: Underrated


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : The Burn (5.8)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Feb 25, 2014

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Comments: Pretty solid throughout. Not to say that you can't get hurt, but I think this is the sort of route that feels harder because of it's rep. I led it as just another climb and heard later that it had maimed a bunch of people, but it felt really solid overall. Ignorance is bliss?


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Hillside (aka Summit Boulde... : Italian Stallion (V6-7)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Dec 1, 2013

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Comments: Really good movement...ditto on conditions....


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Lakeside Crag : China Dragon (5.10)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Dec 1, 2013

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Comments: Really good climbing with solid gear. A good choice for breaking into 5.10.

The last section near the top where the corner slabs out tends to be a bit dirty and insecure. It's easy to get sucked into continuing up this way, but once you are in the corner the arete up and slightly behind you has several jugs. Use these to pull out of the corner for a better finish. This is more exposed, but the climbing feels more solid IMO.


Location: NH : WM: North Conway : Humphrey's Ledge : The Dedication Area : Robinson Crusoe (5.10b PG13)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Nov 23, 2013

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Comments: The first pitch is classic and great to do by itself.

The crux second pitch has pro that is a bit rattly, I think I had a green/yellow alien in a thin flake. Not R per se, more like PG. It's not horrendous by any means, but definitely makes you pay attention.


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : Lower Left Wall / Ventilato... : Ego Trip (5.11c)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: P1: Lots of fun, I agree with the tricam beta. The alien works but isn't confidence-inspiring to a wimp like me.

P2: Thin and excellent climbing. This is the sort of route where the holds are JUST big enough to convince you to keep going. The overhang stumped me, have to go back and try again!


Location: NH : *Whitehorse Ledge : 2. South Buttress : Atlantis Area : Atlantis (5.10b)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Oct 26, 2013

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Comments: This has a more adventurous feel than it's neighbors. The initial undercling pitch was cool, as was the third pitch .9 flake, but the chimney-swimming in between and up to the roof traverse detracted from the climbing. There also seemed to be a fair amount of potential for rockfall, especially on the last pitch; tread lightly!


Location: NH : *Whitehorse Ledge : 2. South Buttress : Atlantis Area : Lost Souls (5.10a/b)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Oct 19, 2013

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Comments: I wasn't a huge fan of the first pitch, but it's part of the route so I would do it again. The scramble across isn't much better.

The upper three pitches of the route were terrific and pretty straightforward. The pillar wasn't really spooky per se, but there are a few times over the course of the route when falls wouldn't be a great idea.

We climbed on a single rope with a separate rap line and had no trouble with drag. Put a short/regular draw on the first bolt of the second pitch and sling ... more >>


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : North Peak - West Face : Madmen Only (5.10a)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Sep 28, 2013

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Comments: If I remember right, you can get a brass nut or two off the deck to protect the initial boulder problem.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Bonsai : Social Outcast (5.12a)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: As popular as this is, I thought it was definitely overrated. The climbing is thuggy but not in an enjoyable way and there's so much chalk it's ridiculous. I can see it being a good project with the crux at the top and whatnot, but there are better .12a routes to be found for sure.


Location: NH : WM: Franconia Notch : Hounds Hump Ridge (Eaglet e... : The Flatiron : Puckered Pork (5.9+)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Sep 8, 2013

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Comments: I used a green camalot before the bolt (which I backcleaned) and a purple TCU before the last bolt, but that was about it for natural gear. You could probably find more if you spent the time, but I found that this route was pretty straightforward. Not as scary as the book makes it sound, although moving slowly to find the right sequence makes a big difference. You could easily make it more like 5.10 if you missed holds.


Location: NH : Lakes Region : New Durham Area (South of ... : Devil's Den : The Cave Wall : The Cave Wall Crack Right (5.10)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Aug 22, 2013

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Comments: Crap rock, not very enjoyable.


Location: NH : Lakes Region : New Durham Area (South of ... : Rand Mountain : Knights in White Spandex (5.10b)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: This looked so good from the ground that I got three bolts up before I realized I'd forgotten the rest of the rack. Oops...

Great climbing


Location: NH : Lakes Region : New Durham Area (South of ... : Rand Mountain : Fook Pig (5.11a PG13)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: This is a good climb and not too run out.


Location: NH : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Sundown Ledge : Lost Horizon : Sub Woofer (5.11c)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Aug 15, 2013

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Comments: Worth doing, not to bad coming through the roof


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Salathe Wall (5.9 C2)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Aug 2, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this at the end of June after a bail last year from the Alcove (ugh). General reactions:

1.) More aid-to-free and vice versa than I expected, but it REALLY helps in certain spots to avoid awkward aid placements.

2.) Double brass offset micronuts are great to have. I didn't have to cam hook at all, although I tried a few times. While that would probably been faster, most of the C2 sections were pretty solid with offset brass.

3.) We brought doubles in cams with several extra finger... more >>


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