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Location: NH : Stonehouse Pond : Sicilian Olympics (5.12c)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing is hard. It is, however, an excellent route.
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Location: NH : Stonehouse Pond : Desperation (5.10c)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Off-balancy moves lead to a cool move around the flake, but not the greatest route at the Pond.
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Location: NH : Stonehouse Pond : Luna (5.12d)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Dec 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: "My apology to those sandbagged."
Apology accepted! ;-)
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Location: NH : Stonehouse Pond : The BBB route (5.11c)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Nov 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun climb with good pro once you reach the bolt. The bolt protecting the optional .11 finish (which is the way to go, btw) may be in need of replacing.
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Location: NH : Stonehouse Pond : Hymie's Last Stand aka Kar... (5.10d)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Nov 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really enjoyable climbing.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Nutcracker (5.9+)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Nov 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Such a good route!
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Dresden (5.11a PG13)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Aug 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah if you fell on the direct start, you'd likely be toast. Better to traverse in per above.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Lichen Delight (5.11a)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Aug 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks intimidating from the ground but it's pretty solid. Really fun above the roof.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Lower Left Wall / Ventilato... : Age Before Beauty (5.9)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Aug 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm more of a crack climber but I've climbed enough slabs here and there. Maybe it's just me, but I think ths is a total sandbag at 5.9. .10a or even 10b is more like it.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Lonesome Dove (5.10a)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Aug 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have a feeling that I'm about to get ripped into, but I've done this a few times and it's just ok IMO. Overrated in relation to some of the other 10s at Rumney.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Freeblast (5.11)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Jul 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't lead the fifth pich, but my partner had some lowe balls and seemed pretty pysched that he had them. They seemed to fit well when the crack pinches down to a seam.
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Cliff Boulders : Chuckie's Torture (V9)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Mar 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I sent this last week and was able to highstep and get a toe on the crack of jugs. I don't know if this was V9, but I've seen five people send this and they all did it like that. V8?
This was very dependent on body position, and is probably easier if you are taller.
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Devil's Den : Heat Wave (5.11)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Mar 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Shocked myself by onsighting this yesterday starting off the block (which I'd recommend since you can place a piece of the ground to avoid cratering into the boulder). I placed a handsized power cam off the ground and carried doubles from green - gold camalot and one blue, plus a few nuts since I didn't know what the upper slab would hold. This seemed about right. There are two bomber trees at the top but no rap slings.
The climbing is absolutely STELLAR. It blows me away that people walk by s... more >>
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Zion 2012 Spring Cliff Clos...
By: Matt Desenberg When: Feb 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's what I was wondering...
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Lower Left Wall / Ventilato... : Three Birches (5.8+)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Dec 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can link the first two pitches with a 60m and careful slinging. Definately try the Starfire finish if it is dry. Tons of fun!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Regular Northwest Face of H... (5.12a/b)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Oct 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Finally climbed this over the summer. Really fun; easy aid stacked on top of an alpine rock route. Half Dome is one of a kind!!
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Location: NH : Humphrey's Ledge : The Dedication Area : Move it or Lose it (5.11b)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Oct 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good climbing
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Upper Cliff : Yellow Zonkers (5.8+ PG13)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Oct 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can get decent gear in the chockstone, I think I had a green camalot and a red as well. Hardest at the start where it's a bit steeper, and by the time a fall would be sketchy you can get inside the squeeze.
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Devil's Den : Heat Wave (5.11)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Dec 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Haven't gotten on this yet, but I checked it out recently and it looks absolutely amazing.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Airation Buttress : Airation (5.11a)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Nov 16, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super fun. The feet are better than you might think, too.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : End of Days Crag : End of Days (5.11b/c)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Jul 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lots of fun!
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Location: NH : Humphrey's Ledge : The Geriatric Walls : Lost and Found (5.10c/d)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Jun 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did this today, Grammy found a real gem here. Nice rock, especially at the top crux. Too bad it's only 5.6! jk ;)
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Location: NH : Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Arm and Hammer (5.11b)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Apr 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Business is indeed at the bottom. Trend left past the third bolt even though it looks better to the right. FWIW, the new guide has this at .11c
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Location: ME : Camden Hills : The Rampart : Prospero (5.10d)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Oct 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Second the stick clip advice...
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Location: ME : Camden Hills : The Rampart : Ariel (5.11d)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Oct 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sent this today, great line.
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