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Matt Bauman


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Feb 8, 2006
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Point Rank: # 1,283
Total Points: 487
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
8 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Matt Bauman been climbing?










Contributions


All 131 | Routes 39 | Areas 2 | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 47 | Posts | Stars 39 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Kor's Flake (5.7)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Agree this is excellent and exciting.....but I plugged a perfect #5 Camalot for the traverse.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Wrinkles in Time (5.8+)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The guidebooks all rate it 5.9.....when I led it I thought it was pretty easy for 5.9 but then most of the Dream canyon climbs seem a little inflated to me also (remember Long Dong Dihedral). Id say 8+ is fair since the 1st pitch is pretty sustained but the second pitch is definately easy 5.7. Theres an awesome one pitch line called Brief History in time on the right side of Dream dome thats also rated 5.9, is more sustained and has a much harder finger crack than Wrinkles crux finger crack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Emerald City (5.9)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Led this pitch today and I have to say that it is one of my favorite, if not my favorite 5.9 pitch in Eldo...a great finger crack in the back of the dihedral, some cool stemming in the tight corner...the 2nd half has an awesome hand crack that goes all the way to the belay...very sustained and LOTS of fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Xanadu (5.10a)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Led this today as my first 5.10 trad lead...fun climbing but didn't feel as hard as Emerald City...go figure...recommended.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Bongo Boulder : Bongo (Fury) (V6 PG13)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Bongo traverse (B2) and others on the Bongo boulder were developed by Bob Horan in the early 80s.....it's funny but I was up there early last week bouldering.....if you continue up the trail and stay right at the fork, just a ways after the radio tower are a bunch of boulders right on the trail and MANY others off trail, many of the offtrail boulders are excellent crack, bulge and steep face problems but most have scary landings.....follow the huge talus gully up and you will find some killer hi... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.8+)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I agree with Ben....led this yesterday and it felt like solid 5.9 to me. GREAT pitch with killer finger crack.....pumpy....funny how the Boulder climbs south calls this 5.9 but the new Eldo guide calls it 8+....#s don mean shit and regardless, this is a classic and wonderful pitch....Don miss it!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Chockstone (5.10a)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I led this this morning and found the crux to feel quite a bit harder than Xanadu.....very off-balance and insecure move and fairly sustained for 10-15 feet. Cool climb but felt much harder than Xanadu and both are 10a (and about 100 feet apart). Cool eery clouds pulled in and filled the whole canyon......noone else in the area made the atmosphere very cool.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire : Fast Draw (5.10)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Change that to 2 stars....even in my description I mention crappy bolts, crappy belays, crappy raps.....the climbing is fun but totally north facing and only good in summer.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Cornered, straight up varia... (5.9)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: This straight up version FA was Richard Rossiter in 1980, the original route Cornered or Dihedral (as it is renamed in the new guide book) goes left at large flake at top of dihedral, FA Erickson, solo 1978......I almost wussed out and went left at the beautiful undercling flake but the steep crack up the right side of the flake sucked me in....FUN.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : West Crack (aka Star Wars) (5.8)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Forgot to mention, while starting up the awesome 2nd pitch we heard a huge CRACK and looked across the canyon at Redgarden and saw 2 HUGE chunks of rock falling thru the air from somewhere around Yellow Spur area...a couple more CRACKS and it was over...SCARY...it was around 6pm, and if it was a weekend someone or a few folks would have died for sure. I don't know if it was precipitated by anything (a climber) or if it was intentional (highly doubt this). Anyone else know anything about this or ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Gonzo (5.8)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Led the first pitch today....short but FUN!!!!!! The second pitch is just as fun in a wide crack sorta way....I give it 3 stars, way cool route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : V3 (5.8)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Followed this today and what a cool pitch....sustained and long for Eldo. I wanna go back and lead that nice finger crack in the left wall and also Deviant, which looks HARD....saw this strong looking dude hanging on it today.....there's no feet. Led the 2nd pitch of Over the Hill today too, that finger crack has been calling me for the last 2 weeks and finally got to nail it today, very recommended!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Over the Hill (5.10b)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I have to agree that the 2nd pitch is as good as it comes....I led it yesterday as a 2nd pitch to Over and out...I still wanna climb the 1st pitch of Over the hill but haven gotten the nerve to, yet...soon, very soon.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Cussin' Crack (5.7)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The 2nd pitch is the only good pitch on this climb and the crux is a short slippery section protected by #4 Camalot...just one move and you are secure with a good hold...pretty cruiser I thought on my second lead, but first time up there I was a bit freaked by the slipperyness of this section also.... Best way to descend from the summit is to scramble to north and look for big ledge with pine tree that has chain and carpet around it...rappel from here to avoid the worst of the down-climbin... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull : Upside The Cranium (5.10c)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Richard, have you done Sunshine Dihedral (just left of Upside)? It looks like an incredible line in a beautiful dihedral...there are also numerous other cracks (and one other overhanging corner called Casual Corner) on this crag that look nice...done anything else here? Just curious...I went there to climb one day in January, but the sun wasn't shining on it, so we passed...can't wait to go back soon (I want Sunshine Dihedral...hehehe).


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Eumenides (5.8)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I loved pitch 1....almost 200 feet of steep jamming and stemming to the roof that takes a #1 Camalot and then you traverse straight left with no pro for 30 feet to large ledge with tree anchor. I loved this pitch but my partner at the time invited his "girlfriend" and she fell at the steepest section in the dihedral and got a bit banged up (rope stretch and she took an upside downer cuz her foot got stuck in the crack) and then, after recovering, she climbed up to the roof, pulled the @PO... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Eumenides (5.8)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: My buddy said that pitch 1 was the only pitch he liked on the route and that the rest of it was meandering and non-aesthetic....no matter, I just love big dihedrals with jamming and stemming....Right Dihedral on the Pear is very similar but much harder. I wanna do Grapevine, Guillotine, Mainliner and a bunch of the others also...Kor's Flake was a blast.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Eumenides (5.8)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I agree Charles, I've heard mixed reviews about Eumenides, and since there are plenty of other routes on Sundance I want to climb, I doubt I will get on Eumenides again anytime soon. The Nose looks awesome!!!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Wrinkles in Time (5.8+)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: That's whats so cool about upper dream, its part trad, part bolted.....its not exclusively sport climbing by any means....the guide book says take some gear and QDs....Ive led Wrinkles with a light rack and really all you need is one nut or small cam for the finger crack and the rest is fine with the bolts.....GREAT climb.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Watchtower : The Watchtower Corner (5.9-)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I climbed this a few months ago (December I think) but it was a crappy day......it is such a nice looking line....I started up wet slabs for 25 feet of easy but slippery (it had been snowing the last week and this is north facing) slab to gain the HUGE corner. A decent crack with easy stemming on lichen covered and wet rock for 100 feet and you reach a roof/bulge and the crack widens to #4 Camalot (I had only 1). By now a snow storm was dumping wet snow and my rock shoes were not feeling... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Rock Island II : Candelaria's Crack (5.12a)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I love this area....it is great when the kids fall asleep in the car and I can pull over almost right under Candelaria's Crack and do some easy but fun bouldering for 30 minutes. There is a great hand crack/lie back corner down the wall about halfway, there's an old piton protecting the upper moves (in case you want to lead it....great beginner lead but short, 25 feet topout). It is maybe 5.6 but great to just work on jams eliminating feet (only in crack) and toping out and down climbing it...... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Xanadu (5.10a)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: It's interesting how different folks gravitate towards different styles of climbing....my partner wanted to lead Whiplash (10c roof crack left and up from the top of Xanadu) but after scoping Xanadu he said he didn't want to lead it, so I volunteered to lead Xanadu so he could lead Whiplash.....I love those balancy dihedrals (this one reminded me of Green Spur's crux) with THIN cracks, my buddy doesn but he likes overhanging hand/fist/offwidth cracks......needless to say we compliment each other... more >>


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