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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : Outer Gates : No Mystery Here (5.7)
By: mary When: Jul 30, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route was pretty cool - you can be creative with the rappel - the ledge to the left of the climb will get you and your second down and then chimney down the other side. plenty of good stuff to gawk at back there... a guy named rick really helped me out by stick clipping the first bolt... All the first bolts at the Monastary seem to be REALLY high up... If you are a gutless wonder like myself - I highly recommend a stick clip or a crash pad and good spotter!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Ho Hum (5.4)
By: mary When: Jul 30, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was my first trad lead... it takes perfect pro - but I did a terrible job with rope drag... for other beginner leaders make sure you extend your slings and take care to keep your rope out of various cracks 'cuz I am just glad the climb ended when it did or i couldn't have gone further if I wanted to
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : West Dihedral (5.4)
By: mary When: Jul 30, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: this was my 2nd lead and it was a very nice one (great pro - mostly stoppers) - so a great beginner trad lead - but if you are used to nice sport anchors or walk offs from your own anchors and see that jumbled pile of frayed cable and D-rings... please believe that you really are supposed to finish there and don't just keep going hoping to run into a magical top-out or bolt anchor (hmmmm......) - maybe bring an extra sling for peace of mind when rapping off
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Visor : Geek in the Creek (5.8)
By: mary When: Jul 11, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is pretty fun and good for beginner leaders... it would be easy to reach high and clip if you are tall... but as a midget, it was a lot easier for me to clip the anchors once they were at waste level. I though my clip position was a lot more secure even if you are higher up.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Frictionary (5.7)
By: mary When: Jul 11, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is probably the easiest sport lead in the Canyon (that I know about anyhow). It is perfect to build confidence and if you want to make it more interesting you can stay on the face instead of going left around the arrete.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Dinosaur's Foot : Index Toe (5.8)
By: mary When: Jun 2, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would say that this climb is definitely 5.8 - but it is kind of tricky at the crux... not hard though... also - we ran out of rope so we had to do some creative bouldering/downclimbing/sketchy rope trickery. pretty much everything here requires a full 60 m. all of the climbs downslope from this one were much better... and the 9 next to this one looked better too although i didn't get a chance to hop on it
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Big Ass Slab? : Critical Morass (5.10d)
By: mary When: Jun 2, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is great.. - balancy, sustained, beautiful exposure - you name it... but yeah - after the bulge it kinda gets dumb and 5.6ish and a little too much rope drag- still worth it though... and a 60 m rope will barely be enough to lower, but it's an ez step off from the 1st bolt if you run out of rope... all four of the climbs on this wall are very good... the 9 next to it is also quite good, and the ez climb on the arete is a gorgeous photo op with Lily Lake in the background
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