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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Zappa Wall : Dirty Red Cam Corner (5.10+)
By: martinharris When: May 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really good climbing, needs more ascents to clean it up. It's really not as dirty as it looks. A few more people on it, and it's good to go.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Cabin Wall : Unknown Awkward (5.9+)
By: martinharris When: Apr 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Calling this 5.9 will get some one hurt. It was harder than many a 5.10a in Escalante, and it has sandy slippery and manky rock up top. In fact, I would say it is harder than the opening moves to S Crack.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Hooker (5.10c)
By: martinharris When: May 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Place at your waist and the finger locks are still useful.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Where's Carruthers? (5.10+)
By: martinharris When: Apr 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The start is a bit awkward and hard but just comit to the thin hands for a move or two hit the jug and it's over. I did get a 4 in about 8-10 feet below the anchor
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Amaretto Corner (5.11)
By: martinharris When: Apr 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree w/ 5.10 ow I took the whip on hand stacks and proceeded to puke
It was epic. I know I should be ashamed but I am proud to have stuck with the stacks instead of lie backing. It was a memorable first ow lead for sure.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Will-Mento (5.10+)
By: martinharris When: Apr 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I also climbed this thing last fall and it was way dirty
But quality big hands for sure
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Interiors Wall Area : Unknown III (5.10)
By: martinharris When: Apr 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was about to climb this last fall and the start looked to have a black widow living in it.
I am a big baby I know, but hopefully someone moves so I can give it a go.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire : Fast Draw (5.10)
By: martinharris When: Mar 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: And take at least 3 gold Camalots. I was crappin' myself with a huge runout just before the pins. And I was probably safe from groundfall, but it would have been close.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire : Fast Draw (5.10)
By: martinharris When: Mar 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Got on this today. The anchors for the first pitch are gone.
Not a single bolt from the deck into the chimney or in the first 20 feet of the chimney. At this point, we decided to bail on some pins. And I would say if you want to continue up the chimneys, you will definitely want to take a six. My 5 was way too small to protect the first offwidth.
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Location: CO : Carbondale : The Frying Pan : The Skillet : Green Eggs & Ham (5.9)
By: martinharris When: Nov 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great balancy, fun, tecky climbing.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Lease Agreement (5.10a)
By: martinharris When: Nov 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great short climb.
I agree if that finger crack were longer I would be great. I wonder how many times I have said that, lol. Buy great finger locks lead to easy face climbing. Gear beta: a red c3 and a #0.4 Camalot is fully enough gear for a guy like me that gets scared on Eldo 5.8.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Iron Horse (5.11)
By: martinharris When: Nov 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just top roped ,but it seams if you plugged gear at the crux, you would loose your finger locks witch were already thin to say the least. But either way, so killer and desperate for me.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Cabin Wall : Passion for Pumping aka Cor... (5.11)
By: martinharris When: Nov 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Got a tr burn, and this thing is heinous and dope. New inspiration to get better and make 0.5 and 0.75 a fun size.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Pente (5.11-)
By: martinharris When: Nov 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The is the best single pitch of rock climbing I have ever lead. First ever 11 trad I have gone for and the most pumped I have ever been. And the first trad whip over say 6 feet and guess what my red Camelot held. The start is hard and the huge splitter is long. The finger Corner is low agle and at that poiy I was so pumped placing gear was impossible. So if it's ur first 11 at the creek take like 8 red 2 gold and 2 .75 camelots and run out the las 30 feet to the good hand jam to clip the anc... more >>
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Cruiser Gully/Buttress : Canyon Cruiser (5.8)
By: martinharris When: Oct 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Me and Jono put up a new tyrolean line.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Skull Cave : Pile Driver (5.11b)
By: martinharris When: Sep 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Most steep 11 I have ever seen. It's what you think Rifle should be: polished, steep as hell, but still way fun.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Grizzly Creek Wall (aka Mud... : Mudflap Girl (5.10)
By: martinharris When: Sep 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Killer adventure and some nasty climbing.
I would call the crux pitch a bit of a sandbag at 10a. It was a hard, exposed, scary lock off.
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Location: CO : Carbondale : Hell's Gate/ Hagerman Pass : Slab from Hell : Taliban Blues (5.9-)
By: martinharris When: Jul 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lots of draws, 0.4 or 0.5, and 0.75 and #2 is plenty for the crack.
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Location: CO : Carbondale : Hell's Gate/ Hagerman Pass : Hell's Gate
By: martinharris When: Jun 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great intro to finger locking goodness.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Tombstone Crack (5.8)
By: martinharris When: Jun 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I led this last summer with gear to 3 inches, and it was a bit scary. I managed to fish 2 nuts in for about 100 feet before I plugged in my #3. Thank God it was easy chimney. Stemming moves.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Arch : Mitten Slab : Mitten Slab (5.10b)
By: martinharris When: Jun 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do not link the first 2 pitches. Even with extending clips, it felt like I was dragging an anchor up with me.
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Location: CO : Carbondale : The Narrows : Narrows Proper : Jenga Buttress Crack aka 1... (5.10a)
By: martinharris When: Jun 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: It was great, and a single rack from green c3 to a #5 is way more than enough to zip this climb up and have a few extra cams.
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Location: CO : Carbondale : The Narrows : The School Yard : Been Caught Stealin' (5.9-)
By: martinharris When: Jun 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I placed an interesting #2 that removed some stress through the gear section.
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Location: CO : Carbondale : The Narrows : The School Yard
By: martinharris When: Jun 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good fun stuff.
Don't leave your green c3 at home.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Pup Tent of Solitude : Tooth or Consequences (5.11b)
By: martinharris When: May 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Admitedly didn't finish it out, I wiped at the chains and bailed to try it some other time. But it is a sweet, and I will get it next time, I hope.
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