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On Rabbit Ears


Member Since: Dec 10, 2011
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
Contact Marta Reece


Point Rank: # 547
Total Points: 1,130
Last Year: 812
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 302 | Routes 47 | Areas 10 | Photos 91 | Page Improvements | Comments 55 | Posts 17 | Stars 69 | Ratings 13
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : Middle Rabbit Ear : West Face (5.7)
By: Marta Reece When: Jun 18, 2014

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Comments: Bail option: If you were to set up your rap anchor at the Pitch 3 belay, two 60m ropes would take you to the ground in a single rappel. All you'd have to do is go down the clean, vertical plane next to Church Key (not down the route). From there you can scramble toward the Middle Rabbit Ear/North Rabbit Ear saddle by going north and up over the top of a bit of a buttress, then down to the saddle, and down the gully and then left to the start of the route.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : Middle Rabbit Ear : West Face (5.7)
By: Marta Reece When: May 22, 2014

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Comments: The original rap line on the south to Normal Route was set up for a single 60m back in the day. However, the intermediate rap station has deteriorated into unusability. Two ropes are required.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Dona Ana Mountains : Checkerboard Wall : Knight's Move (5.8)
By: Marta Reece When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: An alternative Pitch 3 is to go right from P2 belay, traversing on a rounded boulder, and take the next chimney up. It is wide and filled with chocks, which are surprisingly not too unstable and can be climbed without much of a problem. Once the floor levels off, you can go up the right wall to the slab on the right. Go up it and cross over the chimney where it is filled with chock again, then climb up a steep face to the left of it to reach a slab leading to the boulder field on top of Checkerb... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Wedge : The West Ridge (5.7)
By: Marta Reece When: Apr 5, 2014

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Comments: The top, difficult part of the slab on Pitch 4 can be completely avoided by going left at the last pro placement (a #1 Camalot in a short, almost-vertical crack of questionable usefulness). Just step off the left end of the slab and you are off technical ground on an easy third class ramp. A good option to have on a windy day.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Low Horns : Gertch : Gertch's Folly (5.8)
By: Marta Reece When: Mar 22, 2014

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Comments: West side deproach: follow the ridge line of Gertch practically all the way to Low Horn 1. Drop down on the south side and continue down through the vegetation (mostly Apache plume). Curve slightly to the right and drop down into a steep gully. Several hundred feet of this and the gully will become more rocky. Look for a lone tree on the right with rap slings on it. It will be still well short of the drop off. A single, two-rope rappel with a pair of 70m ropes will take you to the ground ... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : North Organs : Lambda Wall : Photo
By: Marta Reece When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: We have tried to follow this pair of topos with some diligence and found them less than reliable. The lines on the drawings appear to correspond to visible features on the rock, but almost all of the actual routes are in other locations entirely, either for a part of their length or in their entirety. This is not a comparison of a historical record to current climbing, but a comparison of the topos to reports of historical locations of these route as obtained, when possible, from multiple indepe... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : North Organs : Lambda Wall : Photo
By: Marta Reece When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: We have tried to follow this pair of topos with some diligence and found them less than reliable. The lines on the drawings appear to correspond to visible features on the rock, but almost all of the actual routes are in other locations entirely, either for a part of their length or in their entirety. This is not a comparison of a historical record to current climbing, but a comparison of the topos to reports of historical locations of these route as obtained, when possible, from multiple indepe... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : North Organs : Lambda Wall : If I Only (5.9+)
By: Marta Reece When: Jan 22, 2014

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Comments: This route was originally posted under the name "Bastard," which we took from an old topo of the Lambda Wall. After discussion with some of the people who climbed the real Bastard back in the day, it was clear that this line is not the same, and therefore in need of a new name. The real Bastard will join it in time. Sorry about the confusion.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Dona Ana Mountains : Checkerboard Wall : Cross-trainer (5.7)
By: Marta Reece When: Jan 14, 2014

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Comments: Many thanks to Pat Gioannini (climber pat) for spending his Christmas Eve doing the re-bolting this route so badly needed.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Low Horns : Gertch : Gertch's Folly (5.8)
By: Marta Reece When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: For more information and photos you can check out adifferentkindofparadise.wordp...
courtesy of Dan Carter.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : Southern Comfort Wall : Lowenbrau Light (5.7+)
By: Marta Reece When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: Looking for a warmup? Lowenbrau Light is a good climb, but with its crux start it does not provide an ideal warmup. The level of difficulty is also not as different from Black Velvet as the numbers would indicate. It's more like 5.8- for Lowenbrau and 5.8+ for Black Velvet, rather than the 5.7+ and 5.9 listed. (Margaritaville, listed for some unfathomable reason as 5.8+, is the hardest of the three of them at about 5.9+.) So what to do? You probably don't want One Shot at 5.6, short, and ... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : North Organs : Lambda Wall : West Face of Lambda Wall (5.7)
By: Marta Reece When: Jan 10, 2014

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Comments: Approach: Turn off the regular trail to Lambda Wall above the large tree and traverse left on easy but featured ground with generally friendly vegetation (see photo for details).

Pitch 1: 120 ft, 5.7+, go up the large dihedral - very easy at first, sustained and interesting climbing later, one piton. Note a large loose-looking rock below a yellow-green decorated roof. Exit dihedral to the right at this point using the widest crack for hands. Traverse right on easy ground to the next left-facing... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Cochise Dome (What's My Lin... : What's My Line? (5.6 A0 R)
By: Marta Reece When: Jan 5, 2014

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Comments: Caution! On the two-bolt anchor used for the pendulum both hangers spin and the top bolt is so loose, it can be turned by hand.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Low Horns : Gertch : Gertch's Folly (5.8)
By: Marta Reece When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: West side approach: More painful, but definitely far less strenuous and shorter in terms of both distance and time (with much route finding, a long break, and plenty of gear, we made it in two and half hours).

Take off from Topp Hut Road at a stake just short of the hut. The trail, going more south than east and heading left of the small hill, is well marked with cairns and crosses terrain with low, harmless vegetation. The greenery gets worse after a while and the cairns disappear just... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : North Organs : Lambda Wall : Yellow Brick Road (5.7)
By: Marta Reece When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: We have tried to follow the topo for Yellow Brick Road. The first pitch is basically a dirty fourth class, maybe with a move or two here and there, but definitely with low angle with bushes and cactus etc. Pitch 1 belay is not actually on the topo, but I assume it would have been just below the overhangs or so.

Start of Pitch 2 goes over the bulge. It's overhanging and the rock does not inspire confidence. We bailed left to the normal way of reaching the ledge above the Wizard.

The way I see... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Needle and Squaretops : Organ Needle : Normal Route (3rd)
By: Marta Reece When: Dec 28, 2013

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Comments: The trail has been over-used. Instead of following cairns, you now scramble up loose debris in a trough dug into the mountain by feet and erosion. This goes on for most of the way. The trail may have deserved those stars at one time, but currently it's a slog without much appeal. It does get you to the summit, but that's about all you can say for it.

However, with the exception of Dark Canyon, alternative off-trail routes are possible and a great deal more enjoyable. One way is to take the Fil... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : South Organs : Pena Blanca : ... : 5.7 crack / face (5.7)
By: Marta Reece When: Dec 24, 2013

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Comments: The first bolt you come to is not part of the anchor. Continue few feet south to a pair of bolts. Bring slings, two normal-size ones will do, to extend the anchor to or past the end of the slab.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Low Horns : Gertch : Gertch's Folly (5.8)
By: Marta Reece When: Dec 17, 2013

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Comments: A way to avoid the hanging belay, along with the possibility of loose rocks hitting said belay:
(As described, this works only with a 70m rope, but with 60m all you have to change is split pitch 4.)

Take Pitch 3 to the ledge which goes right from the bottom of the obvious right facing corner. The ledge is about 15 feet long, and you’ll be coming up at the right end of it.

Pitch 4, about 220 feet: Go up the dihedral to where a stretch of consistent-angle slab opens up on the right. Cli... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : Southern Comfort Wall : Margaritaville (5.8+)
By: Marta Reece When: Dec 17, 2013

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Comments: Charlie Cundiff's rating on his topo is 5.9+. I'd say the crux (going straight up, I didn't see another way) is about a point harder than anything you will find on Black Velvet. It is possible to avoid it by starting one corner farther to the right, but then you will have a small roof to content with. It is still somewhat easier though, and more protectable.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Low Horns : Gertch : Gertch's Folly (5.8)
By: Marta Reece When: Dec 17, 2013

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Comments: East side approach: Go up the north fork of the Pine Tree Trail up to a gully with a short, thick, black log in the middle of it at the bottom. Almost immediately take off to the left of the gully and go up a shallow draw. When the vegetation starts to be too thick to be comfortable ahead, go right and up the gully from there. It will be mostly rock rubble and decent this high up. Drop your packs at the Big Windy Saddle. Bushwhack down the west side. Go down the gully and then over discon... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Dona Ana Mountains : Checkerboard Wall : Ring Route (5.9)
By: Marta Reece When: Nov 29, 2013

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Comments: As best I can tell this is the same as the finish of King Me. If somebody knows better, please straighten me out.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : North Rabbit Ear : Boyer's Chute (5.4)
By: Marta Reece When: Nov 24, 2013

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Comments: I found a "variation" listed in the NMSU-archived documents of the Southwest Mountaineers. It's classified as "5.8 and aid," with first ascent by Pete Rogowski, Paul Wohlt, and Tom McCalla, and a note that it should really be considered a separate route.

"Instead of entering Boyer's Chute at the bottom, walk further north around a big blade of rock and climb a very vertical chimney full of loose flakes and blocks. Surprise Buttress forms the left side of this chimney. You exit into Boyer's Chut... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : ... : Photo
By: Marta Reece When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: I believe the dihedral you take to the Flea Tree is actually not visible. The obvious crack leading toward the tree in this picture is on the right side of the buttress the left side of which is bordered the dihedral in question.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : Flea Tree (5.7)
By: Marta Reece When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: There are some loose rocks on the bottom two pitches, as well as on the start of Pitch 4, occasionally sizable ones. They can be avoided, but if you'd put your packs out of the line of fire to start with and trundle some stuff, that would be good.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf
By: Marta Reece When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: For more information on the Normal Route you can go to summitpost.org/forget-about-a-... or eb.nmsu.edu/~amato/ingrahamgui...


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