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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Ichiban Arete (5.10b) : Photo
By: MarkG When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Seems off route... go up the gully until past the tree, then head right onto the face. Correct me if I'm wrong.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : The Thing : The East Face (5.7)
By: MarkG When: Mar 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 3/8/09 the rap anchor consists of one sling of unknown age (looked okay though) and one new (added today) piece of 7mm cord with two rings. A really fun route with great views of The Third and Boulder.
Try to throw your rope out from the wall to avoid the prickly crap at the bottom that gets all over the rope and then all over your hands as you coil damnit.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Long John to V... : Chianti (5.8+)
By: MarkG When: Nov 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: To the extremely nice gentleman who returned my cam on Sunday: send me a message, I've got a chalk bag for you. Thanks again!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : The Knack (5.6)
By: MarkG When: Aug 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anchor at the top of Fountain of Youth is in bad shape. See comments on the FoY page. Recommend finding a different way down.
EDIT: Anchor replaced with new hardware thanks to Jason, Matt, ASCA and ARI.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Fountain of Youth (5.10b)
By: MarkG When: Aug 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yikes! The anchor at the top of FOY is in poor condition. One bolt moves in its hole just by poking at it a bit. The other bolt seems solid but is fairly rusted and BOTH hangers flex uncomfortably under body weight.
EDIT: Problem solved thanks to Jason, Matt, ASCA and ARI!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Super Slide (5.9)
By: MarkG When: Jul 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: - combining pitches 1&2 (60m rope) gets you to the goods faster. Saw no sign of the p1 anchor so just kept going. A 60m rope barely makes it to the first tree on this ledge. Bring some runners if combining these two pitches.
- agreed that the hanging belay at top of p3 is uncomfortable. Wish we had linked with p4.
- DO THIS ROUTE! It's so money.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Lease Agreement (5.10a)
By: MarkG When: Apr 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The fixed cam is gone.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Lower Tier
By: MarkG When: Nov 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was here today and saw someone putting in a new bolt on what looks like Free At Last. Hopefully this was a replacement and not someone altering the existing line?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Breezy (5.5)
By: MarkG When: Oct 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: After the fun move at the start of the 5.6 variation, the rest of "pitch 1" is a slog, try not to get your shoes too sandy in the gully. We did the route as one pitch with a 60m rope. The upper half however is great fun and worth the scramble up the pitch 1 gully.
Found 3 solid placements in the small crack at the back of the ledge in the left facing corner. Has anyone climbed that corner? It seems to have a pin scar near the ledge.
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Location: Tony B : Flora seen while climbing : Photo
By: MarkG When: Oct 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't think those red flowers are paintbrush, but then there are so many varieties.. the plant surrounding the flowers is Mormon Tea/Green Ephedra. And is that a kleenex bloom on the left??
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Location: Tony B : Flora seen while climbing : Photo
By: MarkG When: Oct 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cliffrose, these smell great.
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Location: Tony B : Flora seen while climbing : Photo
By: MarkG When: Oct 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: some type of indian paintbrush and lupines
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Wind Ridge (5.8)
By: MarkG When: Sep 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this yesterday (9/20/07). The Flake at the start of pitch one made some awful creaking noises, and I am not a big person by any means... use caution. Then again, maybe it was just a hungry chipmunk hiding in the crack. The rest of the route is great, solid. We combined most of p2 into the first and belayed just below the ledge with the hanging flake at a short hand crack that has an old bong. If you're doing the final pitch this makes it a little longer, more enjoyable.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : The Breadloaves : Provo Wall : Easy Corner (5.5)
By: MarkG When: Sep 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun. I thought the pro was plentiful, maybe even abundant. You can sew this up if you want. You have your choice of jams, stems, face holds, etc, makes this a really fun varied route. The parking is actually at site #57 but there are also a couple of pullouts nearby.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Gully Washer (5.9+)
By: MarkG When: Jul 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone know about the bolt line just right of Gully Washer? Fun, slopey climb that feels 5.7ish, it climbs up a series of large eroded pockets.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake
By: MarkG When: Jun 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone know if this area within the nat'l park boundary?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Splash (5.7)
By: MarkG When: Jun 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, the hangers do spin, but the bolts seem to be solid enough.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : 5.6 Corner (5.6)
By: MarkG When: May 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Short but fun. Didn't place anything larger than #2 camalot.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock
By: MarkG When: May 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Used the tyrolean today (5/3/07) and it works smashingly but just barely keeps you out of the water. Recommend dragging your packs across separately to keep them dry.
- *EDIT: Tyrolean is fixed, nice 'n high above the creek. June 2007. Thanks to whomever did this.
Does anyone know what the bolted line just right of Hurley Direct is?
The first bolt hanger is missing, then three more bolts to a sling anchor below a nice right leaning finger/hand crack.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Free Willie (5.11a)
By: MarkG When: May 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Greg! Anchor is bomber.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : East Face/Pellea (5.5 R)
By: MarkG When: Aug 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this today, 8-9-06; friggin' sweeeet. The slings ontop are getting old and weathered, definitely bring some webbing to back this up. I didn't and was slightly sketched out.
We started ~100 feet from the Fern Canyon trail at a break in the poison ivy. Didn't think it was too runout, standard Flatirons slab. Second and third pitches are better protected than the first.
Third pitch is super fun.
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