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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Turkey's Delight (5.7)
By: Mark Cushman When: Oct 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi Jerry, I found your rappel anchor in Nov 2008 and cleaned it up. The descent from the top is kind of a hairy scramble.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Northwest Corner (5.8)
By: Mark Cushman When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Matt, that alternate start is called Hurley Direct, great start to the climb!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Photo
By: Mark Cushman When: Aug 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Andrew, I'm not sure what you are saying. I was the one belaying.
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Location: Mark Cushman : Misc Pictures : Photo
By: Mark Cushman When: Aug 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: See this thread for a first hand description of the rockfall.
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Location: ME : Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs : A Dare by the Sea (5.10b/c PG13)
By: Mark Cushman When: Jul 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Spent two days climbing in Acadia on my vacation and this was by far the best climb here. We just TR'd lines at Otter, but it was fun and scenic and this route was the cherry on top. Great movement, just wish it was twice as long!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest : The Prince and The Pauper (5.10a)
By: Mark Cushman When: Jun 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty sure this one is called "Prince And The Pauper".
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Big Ass Slab? : Assmosis (5.9+)
By: Mark Cushman When: Jun 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Small cams work best in the crack, I placed two of the smaller Master Cams (TCUs would work, too) in the crack and they were bomber. No need for bolts down low, the rest of the climb is bolted safely.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : New Route Right of A Brief ... (5.9+)
By: Mark Cushman When: Jun 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought that this climb was awkward also. The moves that made it close to 10a were not even in line with the bolts and I felt like I was off route half the time. Probably will not repeat this climb again.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Whimsical Dreams (5.11-)
By: Mark Cushman When: Mar 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: @Brett Nelson, the pins moved a bit when I clipped them on rappel to take some photos, I wouldn't trust them to hold a fall.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Photo
By: Mark Cushman When: Feb 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe this is Rock Wars.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Overflow
By: Mark Cushman When: Dec 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Richard! It's always good to get the historical information on a route (or set).
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : Black Lake - West Gully (WI4)
By: Mark Cushman When: Nov 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this route on November 16th, 2008 in very nice temps with low winds. Encountered everything from soft hero ice to brittle dinner plating throughout the climb. I punched through a section at the top of P1 that started spurting water ~6 inches above the ice. P2 looked WI3 to the left and was solid WI4 going up the middle pillars. P3 turned into P3-4 and we belayed 2 full 60M pitches up the exit enduro-slabs.
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Ecstasy Junior (5.4)
By: Mark Cushman When: Nov 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is located on the West Face, not the South End. South End routes start from Ecstasy and go to around Candy Corner - Ecstasy Junior starts uphill from The Burn and stays on the south facing face of the West Peak of Seneca the entire way. The entry in the South End section should be removed. FWIW this route is listed in the West Face section of the guidebook, too.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Peanuts (5.9+)
By: Mark Cushman When: Oct 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: To clarify, there is a very nicely placed rap anchor on top of P1 of Peanuts. You can climb up to the anchor then lower off 100' to the ground. Close the system and have the belayer tie in or knot the end of the rope! Fun climb!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Over the Hill (5.10b)
By: Mark Cushman When: Oct 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stellar route, hardest stemming I've done to date! I led P2 only, but I don't think we placed anything over a 0.75 Camalot anywhere on the route. P2 eats thin nuts and cams, I placed a #1, #0 and #00 Metolius and a few small Aliens on the way up.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : The Hanged Man (5.10c)
By: Mark Cushman When: Sep 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first move is fun, not a bad route overall. 2 stars. I'm 5'11" and I was able to do the move semi-statically, expect more problems if you are shorter.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : The Bulge (5.7 R)
By: Mark Cushman When: Aug 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: My advice: don't fall.
Fun route. The straight-up P4 variation is the way to go, not remotely 5.9 but still fun. We climbed with doubles and that helped with rope drag and traverses.
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Thais (5.6) : Photo (Copy)
By: Mark Cushman When: Jul 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's a linked photo, I made a comment on the original but I just didn't want to re-draw the pic. You are right, it's Conn's West.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Solaris : Stellar Drifter (5.9)
By: Mark Cushman When: Jul 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not sure where A Concerned Citizen was, but there are no bolts on this route. We did it this way: one short 30' pitch of hand cracks to a ledge with a tree (5.7ish). The second pitch begins at this broad 15' ledge. A few flaring cracks lead up on balancy moves with somewhat tricky but adequate gear. I saw the anchors to the right on Cosmic Explorer, but headed to the top of the formation via an offwidth and walked off the back. We headed to the next gully over after you top out to walk ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Third Tier : ... : Mystery Tour (5.9)
By: Mark Cushman When: Jul 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I hauled up several boat anchors because it looked wide from the ground, but never placed the really big stuff. Some #3 Camalots and a couple #2 Camalots would sew the climb up.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Martha (5.6 WI2+ M2-3)
By: Mark Cushman When: Jun 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: During a late-season ascent (June 21st, 2008) of Martha we found you can escape the crux section by climbing the rock face to the left of the black rock (see Photo here). This section probably goes at 5.6ish and is doable if the crux is starting to melt out with questionable remaining ice. You'll have to deal with alpine Jenga, but at least you won't get wet.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Martha (5.6 WI2+ M2-3)
By: Mark Cushman When: Jun 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Martha is out (as an ice climb). Crux and all difficult sections are completely melted out, see photo posted below. Loose rock abounds, much different conditions on Saturday as opposed to a week ago. Here's a photo from last week (scroll halfway down). Compare this to a more recent Photo and you'll see what I mean.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Stayin' Alive (5.10a)
By: Mark Cushman When: Jun 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Second pitch is a blast! Thanks Ron, Bruno and everyone who has worked on Tonnere.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Buried Treasure (5.9)
By: Mark Cushman When: Jun 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dear Buried Treasure,
We first met at the suggestion of a friend, he told me I'd like you and that you were fun. Boy, he was right! We had some good times, didn't we? Sure, I may have gotten a little off-track with you here or there, but I always came back! I'm sorry it had to end - it's not you, it's me! I like you just the way you are. Don't you ever change!
-Mark
P.S. I'll come visit again soon.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Overflow
By: Mark Cushman When: May 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Eli Helmuth calls this Jewel Lake Ice on his website, I haven't heard it called "Overflow" before. Is this a historic name or should we change this area name to Jewel Lake Ice with routes of Overflow Left and Overflow Right?
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