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Member Since: Jul 1, 2010
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 1,822
Total Points: 351
Last Year: 82
Last 30 Days: 12
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 284 | Routes 19 | Areas | Photos 10 | Page Improvements | Comments 111 | Posts 2 | Stars 82 | Ratings 60
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Buddha Belly (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Thanks for your analysis Train 4 Life. If my memory serves me correctly Peter Beal made the second ascent in Summer 2000 & told me that he thought it was solid 5.13b. Obviously he changed his opinion, which is valid. What makes it valid or not is why. I don't know the answer. Did he return & repeat the route & decide it wasn't that hard? Or did he just decide to agree with others that were calling it .13a? In any case, it's a great climb that delivers a great pump without hurting your fingers... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Pipe Dreams (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Thanks for your comment Jack. Bob's book is just wrong about climbing the crack on the upper part (pitch 2) of the climb & so is the route description posted on this page of MP. The crack is Bong Session. I have climbed both routes & I love Pipe Dreams. Please refer to the earlier guidebooks such as Richard Rossiter's or my "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II". The climb ascends the face which has some nice pockets. I really like this part of the route.
Yes, the crux i... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Major Dude (5.12c/d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 14, 2015

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Comments: Pretty funny. I'd have to totally disagree. I find this to be the easiest of all the five hard routes (5.12c/d to 5.13a) on Dude's Throne. The fifth being the variation to Major Dude's finish that you are asking about. That info plus the linkup can be found in my guidebook "Golden Rock Climbs". To my knowledge, Vaino Kodas is the only one who has done it.
As for Major Dude, it was our first hard route on the crag. John Flunker sent it twice on the same day when he made the first redpoint & was r... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Mutant Overload (5.12c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 10, 2015

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Comments: Great pitch with a few manufactured holds. There are two ways to do the crux at 6th bolt. The more direct way using the undercling for the left hand then dynoing to the jug with the right has always felt quite hard (.12d). This is how I climbed it numerous times over the years. In 2012, I figured out I could traverse left another move to to big sidepull flake & then reach the jug. Then way is less obvious but easier to execute (.12c).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Go Dog Go (5.12c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 10, 2015

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Comments: One of my favorite routes at Sport Park. This gives Butt Lucious an interesting direct finish. I skip the next to last bolt in the middle of the crux. It takes more energy to clip it than it's worth, considering it is a clean fall. It is a nice dog bolt to work the moves. Some people do clip it. Great moves & not with big holds. Small edges, an undercling, & a high step.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Double Dominatrix (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 8, 2015

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Comments: After watching someone climb the indirect start, it seems very apparent that it wouldn't be a nice fall way to the left of the 2nd bolt. There are good reasons that until 2013 (the first 9 years of this climb's existence) no one went this way. First the direct line is the obvious weakness following a seam crack/vertical edge. Secondly, the less obvious indirect variation looks dangerous. Has anyone fallen off of it? This pendulum fall seems like it would land you crashing into lower angle rock o... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Shiny Dog (5.12c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 5, 2015

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Comments: Hey, Curt, if you don't like it that's just fine with me. Go somewhere else. I find myself returning to this wall many times over the years. It has a quick approach, & it is more sheltered from the wind than most areas in the canyon. The fact that I can do five 5.12 routes & barely move my rope bag is a plus. It's a great training wall with much to offer. I am not condoning this route density at most crags, like really classic areas. Let's be real too, Dude. The bolts aren't 6 inches apart. They... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Consilience (5.11b/c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 5, 2015

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Comments: Great route. Thanks, Vaino, for doing such a fine job bolting & cleaning. That said, shame on Bob D'Antonio for putting it in his Boulder Canyon guidebook that you can get down this climb with a 60 meter rope & to Ron Olsen for doing so in this post. Please refer to my guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II (2005)" that states bring a 70 meter rope or two ropes to descend. A guidebook writer shouldn't given a pass by the climbing community or industry for such a ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Global Gorilla (5.12c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 1, 2015

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Comments: As first ascentionist of this route (and the first to guidebook it), I find it pretty bizarre to see it described as a 3 pitch climb. We never attempted this route in multi-pitch fashion, only as one long pitch. In fact, if you were to belay atop pitch 1, it would create a point of aid to rest. I can't imagine falling off with your belayer right below you to crash into. I describe each stage as lower (.11b), middle (12c) & upper (.12b/c).
I established the middle stage in 1996 & originally ca... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Stone Cafe : Gruel Shoes (5.8)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: This route was established by Dan Hare. I rope soloed it in 2008 & have repeated it. I didn't find any gear necessary. You can always used a locking biner on the bolt hanger if you are worried about leverage.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Sky Cafe
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: I have been very reluctant to post any of the 12 routes, I established at this crag. They are good routes. A few of them are excellent on great rock, but I like to get away from the crowds that inhabit the Sport Park. It is always nice to come up here & find solitude. The information is easy to find in the back pages of my guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II (upper canyon)". This hasn't made this crag popular. There are about 100 copies of this book l... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Stone Cafe : Yin Pin (aka Stonefish) (5.10d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: The name of the route is "Yin Pin". I established this route with Sharon Kloepfer on July 13, 2008. I rated it 5.11b. I thought the start had a hard move at the top of the short arÍte to gain the slab at 4th bolt. The final overhang has interesting moves as well. I did not grab the chains as George did but climbed to where my hands were on top & I could stand on a hold. Interesting that you found the slab dirty. I did wire brush this line. I guess if you stray much it could be lichenous. Perhaps... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Hot Flyer (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Thank you, Randy, for your historical account of Hot Flyer & complimentary remarks of my retrobolting the climb. There are a few things I would like to clarify. I was belaying Andy Parkin in 1982 when he took the 50-60 foot fall. He fell once at the roof on two fixed copperheads & they held. On his next try, he downclimbed rather than fall & grabbed the heads. His outward pull unseated them. Had the heads pulled in a fall from the roof, he would have possibly decked. As he fell, poor RPs & a @PO... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Bertha (5.11+)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: Worth doing especially for such a short route. Wow, Mike, it took you 4 tries! I can see why. It took me 3 tries, & I was glad I sent it. The rain had washed the chalk off many of the holds. On my first go, I missed a good edge for my right hand above 3rd bolt. After finding it, that didn't solve everything, because the hardest moves come after clipping 4th bolt. It is committing getting to this bolt (even though safe) with the 3rd bolt at your feet for the clip. At first I did not find the clip... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : The Formula (5.11d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 17, 2015

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Comments: Here is some first ascent history. I established this climb on Feb. 18, 1981. There were originally 5 pitons. Two side by side knifeblades to protect the crux start & 3 poor upwardly driven pins in the .10d roof. I didn't trust any of the upper 3 pitons & finally removed the worst of the upper 2 pins because the route was controversial for the number of pins used. The rest of the climb was protected on RPs up the dihedral & a #1.5, 4 Friend, & 5 RP past the upper pins. The climb was origi... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Boot Lead (5.11d X)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 17, 2015

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Comments: Perhaps I am being picky, but if my memory serves me correctly, Skip led this route in 1982 not 1983. I guess I will have to dig up my old "Climbing" magazines in my storage & see if this info exists. As for the climb, it feels like .12a on a top rope. I have not led it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Kloeberdeath/Candallegro (5.13b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 17, 2015

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Comments: I redpointed this climb in December 1994 after 4 days of attempts. I thought it was a bit easier than than The Web or Captain Crunch that I did not redpoint. The climbing is 5.12a/b to the last bolt. Then it gets technical & powerful, moving right off an good undercling to poor rounded sidepull edge that I matched on. You are on the left side of the overhung arÍte at that point. I remember hooking a foot around the right side. Then reach or dyno up a series of tiny edges & to a jug hueco. Sudden... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Sheer Terror (5.12c X)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 16, 2015

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Comments: Yes, Skip Guerin was truly the baddest and the best in The West. He may have had sticky rubber Fire shoes. I got my first pair in June 1983. They weren't available the first half of that year. Either way, this is one lead I had no interest in repeating.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Little Dude : Big Lebowsky (5.13b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 16, 2015

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Comments: Just two hard moves! I wish, but I do think the first crux has two moves that are more powerful than the rest of the route. The second crux seems pretty hard, too. Must be nice to be young & strong. My advice is you should stop wasting your time climbing 5.13s. There is a world of 5.14 & 5.15 climbs that you might not find so soft for the grade. I believe it's for you. Leave the 5.13b climbs for us old guys. This one feels hard from the 3rd bolt to the anchor. Good job sending!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : The Ancient of Days (5.9-)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: Truly a nice piece of stone. A beautiful place to climb when the flowers are blooming. The route length seems closer to 80 feet, not just 50 feet. You could rate it 5.8 or 5.9- depending on how you climb over the first roof.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: Thanks, Tony. I am not sure how to turn a page over to someone else. If you know how, that would be great. Much appreciated.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Yellow Tail (5.11+)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: Eric, Are you sure you were on this route & not the route to the right "Steel Pulse". I have climbed this route numerous times now. Seems pretty solid for the most part. There are several interesting sections. The start past first 2 bolts. Past 3rd & 4th bolts & the wild, committing mantle over a bulge onto a sloping shelf, above 6th bolt. Love it! Good warm-up for Frisky Cliff.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Short Sport Route (5.10+)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: This is "Short Sport", what else could it be? Really, 5.10+! Wow I never thought the grade in Bob's book was incorrect at 5.11b/c. It is definitely not as hard as Steel Pulse (.11c) on these crags, so maybe I could see calling it .11b or as low as 11a/b. It is harder than Big Tuna (.11a). One thing it is not is 5.10d.
None of my partners questioned the 5.11 rating. Short but sustained for its length. Better than it looks too.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Heat Wave (5.9)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: Perhaps I am reading too much into your opinion. That said it really caught my attention to see this route rated 5.9 with a bomb for quality rating. First, the route was originally graded .10c. If you had led it with its original gear, I will bet no one would have called it 5.9. I could agree that in its original state you could bomb this route. There was a bail biner on the 3rd bolt when I led it rope solo. I went the easiest way finishing up the rotten arÍte. I thought there were 5.10 moves at... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Lower Security Risk : Ecstasy of the People (5.12d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 12, 2015

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Comments: This is a very odd comment by Taylor Roy. I established the route on March 9, 1995. I redpointed it twice that month. I also cleaned a lot of lichen. It is hard to believe you could spend a hour more, but I guess it is possible. I also don't remember leaving a loose block below the anchor. I am curious now if the block is really loose or just a hollow flake. Perhaps it is too big to want to trundle. As for placing gear, it didn't seem necessary if you can climb this route.
It is interesting that... more >>


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