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Member Since: Jul 1, 2010
Last Visit: Mar 5, 2014
Contact Mark Rolofson


Point Rank: # 1,989
Total Points: 269
Last Year: 31
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All (165) | Routes (16) | Areas | Photos (10) | Comments (59) | Posts (1) | Stars (46) | Ratings (33)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Lower Security Risk : Central Insecurity (5.12d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 5, 2014

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Comments: Glad to see that Matt climbed this route. It is a great route that rarely gets done. I have not returned to repeat this technical vertical face now for 19 years. I established this route with Bob D'Antonio on February 3, 1995 & then repeated it a few days (redpointing it twice). Ian Spencer Greene redpointed it on the day I repeated it, being the second person to redpoint the route.
Since then, I have seen almost no one on this climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : The Juice (5.12d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 5, 2014

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Comments: I established "The Juice" in August 1994. I redpointed it 7 times over the next 2 years. My best day of climbing at this crag was redpointing The Juice, Plan B, Hot Flyer & Just A Little Insecure all on the same day. A great workout!
The Juice has 10 bolts / 2 bolt anchor. The crux is definitely height-dependent. This is why I rated it 5.12d/13a in my guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume I".


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Overhung Wall : Invisible Touch (5.12-)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 18, 2014

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Comments: This route is not 5.12a and was never rated that until Tony Bubb posted it on this website. Originally it was documented as .12d in a "Rock & Ice" Front Range Climbing Guide. After climbing the route, I rated it 5.12c in my "1993 Boulder Sport Climbers Guide". After returning to it last fall, I am still calling it that. It is quite hard at the 1st bolt & also past the 4th & 5th bolt.


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Battle of the Bulbus (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 18, 2014

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Comments: This is a good addition to the East Quarry Wall, even though not one of the 4 star classics. The climb has 5 protection bolts & 2 anchor bolts (saying it has 7 bolts, generally means protection bolts). Adding another bolt between the 3rd & 4th bolts would improve the climb, allowing the crux moves to be worked without taking whippers.

It is my understanding that the route can be climbed two different ways between 3rd & 4th bolts. The easier, indirect line goes left to "High Tide", then back ri... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 14, 2014

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Comments: I find it very frustrating that over the past 14 years, these crags have closed in February often through May for golden eagles. This is not a nesting site & this was proven by wildlife biologists (Brent Bibles of the Colorado Division of Wildlife & Dr. Rob Ramey, former director of Zoology at the Denver Museum of Nature & Science) in Summer 2004. The only egg shells found in the nest on the upper right side of Upper Security Risk were from ravens and were 25 years old. Climbers should voice th... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : High Tide (5.11+)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 9, 2014

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Comments: Quite difficult past first 3 bolts. Hard clip to 3rd bolt, unless the quickdraw is on it. There are only 5 protection bolts, not 6.


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Hairless Dog (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 9, 2014

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Comments: This climb has become slightly harder than it was originally, when I first climbed it in April 2010. I was going to rate this climb 5.12b, but the redpoint went down easy enough in the evening shade I decided on 5.12a/b. Henry Lester called it 5.12a. The climb has gotten harder at the 3rd bolt, from a foothold edge breaking off.
After returning to this climb almost 4 years later, I agree that it definitely deserves 5.12b and maybe 5.12b/c.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ignition (5.11d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Dec 5, 2013

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Comments: One of my favorite sport climbs in Eldorado. I was the person who put the anchor at the end of this pitch and placed what is now the 6th bolt in 1989. The anchor was not the last bolt as stated in the description. At the time, I was thinking I might be doing a first ascent, but it turned out Dan Hare had already climbed the route continuing up the crack above the anchor. The last (now 7th bolt) was already there along with a fixed stopper below it, but I thought maybe this is where "The Untouch... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : Back in Slacks (5.11c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: I did this climb several times between 1989 & 1991. In late October of 2013, I finally returned to climb it again. I would like to thank the person that replaced all the bolts. Unfortunately the pin was not replaced with another pin or better yet a bolt. This climb is much more committing after the crux, especially for shorter climbers who can't reach the good hold back on the slab. The route deserves to have the same amount of fixed protection it was established with.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : Crack a Smile (5.11c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 14, 2013

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Comments: I repeated this route in early February 2013 with Angus Wiessner and in November 2010 with John Welchands. I don't agree that you need supplemental gear. First off the 4th bolt is a ways above the ledge. Secondly, I clip the 5th bolt off a good hand jam. I use a long Petzl draw as to minimize the amount of rope I have to pull out. You are not very far above the 4th bolt when you are clipping the draw. Yes there is ledge fall potential if you fell with slack out while clipping. If you're reall... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Old Man and the Sea (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: A much harder route now due to the missing sidepull pinch. I got to watch Mike Cichon climb the route last Sunday. Pretty amazing, Mike is climbing really strong! I don't think to could do it this way. Shortly after, my partner Colby Richard found a right hand sidepull that Mike or I hadn't. He managed to do this crux twice, while working the route. I am psyched to go back & try it again!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Krishna & Serenity Spire : Higher Rites (5.11b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: Great climb and a pumpy warm-up for the Berlin Wall, but I am disturbed and disappointed by the bolts that are not 3/8" wedge bolts, like the bolts on "Vishnu", but 5/16" bolts with a 1/2" nut.
My guess is that these are not wedge bolts, but externally threaded 3/8" diameter sleeve bolts. If you are going to use this type of bolt, I think is best to use the 1/2" diameter ones (a 1/2" sleeve and a 3/8" diameter bolt). If they are wedge bolts, then that's really lame and dangerously weak.
If I am... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Scratch and Sniff (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 2, 2013

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Comments: When I first led this climb in 1989, the hold at the lip of the roof was better and clipping the 2nd bolt was not so bad. I returned in 1995, after Ken Trout replaced the bolts that had been chopped in the 1989 bolt war. The handhold at the lip had partially broken off leaving a smaller, worse hold and a harder, scary clip. I recommend prehanging a long sling on this bolt so it can be clipped from under the roof. A long extension pole is needed. It really needs another bolt added in the ceilin... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Contest (5.11d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 26, 2013

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Comments: A great pitch that offers a good pump and quite stout for the grade.
I first redpointed the route in Fall, 1988. The first ascent recorded their ascent in a notebook at the Boulder Mountaineer. I remember that they rated the climb 5.11d/12a. I climbed the route numerous times between 1988 & 1993 and have occasionally revisited the route over the years since. Returning to it and comparing it to other Front Range sport climbs, I'd have to call it .12a. I have always felt it deserved that rating... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Box : Discipline (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 14, 2013

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Comments: I climbed this route a few times in 1989 & 1990 & revisited it in 2011. It is great route with some thin, fingery climbing past the first 2 bolts. I would have never have considered placing a large cam in the hole between 2nd & 3rd bolts. It easy & juggy here. However, I do recommend bringing a few stoppers (#6-8) to place in a horzontal crack before the last bolt. I have always placed a couple nuts here, since you're above the 5th bolt before making a tricky move to get to the last bo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Next to Nothing (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 5, 2013

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Comments: I climbed this route many times since 1998. There are times when it hasn't seemed harder than 5.12b but this year it seems much harder to repeat than "Super Bon Bon" or "Shiny Dog". I beleive Chris Alber considered rating it .12c until Fred Knapp did it and called it .12b. I think I am inclined to call it 5.12b/c. It is very stout for .12b.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Shiny Dog (5.12c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 19, 2013

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Comments: Here's the scoop on "Shiny Dog". After watching Chris Alber on this route in 1998, I have climbed it many times ever since. Yes the route is squeezed, but it may be my favorite climb on this wall because there is no where to stop & rest until your hands are in the horizontal crack above 5th bolt. You don't use the large, drilled jug pocket on the neighboring route "Super Bon Bon", because if you do, it definitely changes the grade. You can hang out from this jug switch hands and shake out. A... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mine Hole Crag
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 19, 2013

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Comments: I have never felt as unsafe in Boulder Canyon from rockfall as I did in May 2012. My partners, my dog & I were luckily climbing in the area of "Little Stevie's Favorite Heifer" when two big rocks came flying off the top of the crag about 50 feet left. We yelled up to warn whoever may have been above us of our presence but got no response. I quickly ran left to grab some of gear over by "Ruff Roof" when I witnessed a huge amount of big rock come raining down over the mine hole (left of the fir... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : Pirate Radar (5.11d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 12, 2013

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Comments: Great route but this route description is a bit misleading. First, this route was originally done with 4 bolts & 3 pins. In 1999, (with Bob Horan's permission) I replaced the pins with 2 bolts. The upper piton was a large angle that I removed, the other 2 pins, I couldn't get out but are easily ignored. The 5th bolt allows you to make one clip instead of clipping two pitons from the very strenuous, thin crack in the ceiling. As for bringing gear for the upper crack, you've got to be kidding!... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Hideout : Freedom Fried (5.11b PG13)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: Like most of the routes at the Hideout, this is my route established in March 2003. The reason the 2nd and 3rd bolts are right of where you climb is for good reasons. First, placing these bolts left of the tiny arete & corner would mean putting them in a hollow flake. Secondly, putting the bolts to the left would encourage climbers to stem to the dirty corner & ledge to the left rather than stay on the face & lieback up the flake. It is also possible to climb this section on the arete next to t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Hideout : Harrassment (5.12)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: This is my favorite route at the Hideout. Even though it is not as classic a 5.12 as Plan B & Hot Wire on Security Risk, or Global Gorilla at Animal World, Harassment climbs a very striking, vertical arete. The bottom half of the route climbs a face that starts out easy & then turns to .12a moves above 3rd bolt. The business is a desperate face crux at 5th bolt. From a tips lieback hold in a tiny, right-facing corner, reach tiny edges and dyno to a jug. This is technical with small edges for ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Eagle Eyes (5.11d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: Orginally the crux was a bit harder, with poor holds on the sloping shelf around the 9th bolt. When I climbed this route in 2007, someone must have pulled out a small piece of quartz, leaving a nice incut.
This made a move easier. Still the route felt about .12a.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Green Panther (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: A great route and definitely not as hard as "Buddha Belly", but I have to say I find it very much .13a. Quite sustained with the crux past the 4th & 5th bolts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Buddha Belly (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: Here's the FA & FFA info on this fine route. I bolted the route & then made several one hang ascents in October 1998. I returned to the route on two warm days in December 1998 with visiting German climber Jorg Strassner. With draws on the route and my beta, Jorg redpointed the route on December 4, 1998. Two days later it snowed.
I finally returned & redpointed the route in September 2001. I think the route is harder than 5.13a & rated it 5.13b in my last guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Eagle Hardware (5.11c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 14, 2012

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Comments: Pat Thompson is responsible for bolting & cleaning this route. I was just the first person to freeclimb it. I bolted most of the other climbs at Eagle Rock. Yes, it could have been done with less bolts, but so what? I have climbed it many times to warm up for harder routes, and it's a great climb. If you don't like it, then don't clip all the bolts or go to another crag & leave this wall for those of us who like it. I have met many people who have climbed this route and loved all the bolts.... more >>


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