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Member Since: Jul 1, 2010
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Mark Rolofson


Point Rank: # 1,979
Total Points: 296
Last Year: 35
Last 30 Days: 13
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 203 | Routes 17 | Areas | Photos 10 | Page Improvements | Comments 76 | Posts 1 | Stars 59 | Ratings 40
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Cosmic Thing (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: 3 days ago

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Comments: I don't like to down rate climbs just for sake of flexing my ego. I climbed this route more than twice many years ago. It's a great climb established by two old friends and all time legends. The crux was low on the route. The upper section was overhanging with good holds, not your typical Shelf Road climb. I'd call it .12a and easier than Sundogs at .12a/b.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Mural Wall : Motif (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: 3 days ago

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Comments: This is definitely my favorite route on The Mural Wall. The Mural has some hard climbing, but the bottom part of the route is nothing special. It's approach climbing. Motif is interesting the whole way with the hard start using a mono, a second crux at 4th bolt, and more hard sections to the last bolt. Well worth repeating. Good value for your crag dollar.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Illegal Smile (5.11b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: 3 days ago

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Comments: One of the best 5.11 routes at Shelf Road. A good length climb with a few cruxes.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Hot Beach (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: 3 days ago

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Comments: It has been 23 years since I redpointed this route. I do remember getting back on it in the early 2000s. It is a great climb but not as hard or pumpy as "Tits Up". If it's .12b, then "Tits Up is .12c. "Hot Beach" has a great rest below 4th bolt.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Tits Up (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: 3 days ago

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Comments: It has been over two decades since I redpointed this great forearm endurance route in December 1991 and again in 1992. I remember it having 10 bolts with the crux at 8th bolt. It is possible to avoid the straight up crux next to the bolt, by instead traversing right and using a hold on "Hot Beach" then moving back left. I didn't go this way, but I know someone who did, and it makes the route a little easier but still .12b he thought. I thought climbing the crux straight up and keeping the route... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Paleolithic Tool Traditions (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 20, 2014

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Comments: I have done this great route on several occasions. There is more than one way to do the crux. This makes a big difference on the rating, and I agree with the .11d/12a rating in Sharp End's 2005 guide for this reason. But really 5.11c? Give me a break. Compared to classic like Unusual Weather, this is a harder climb.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Carnage (aka "Wild Virus") (5.13d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 20, 2014

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Comments: Yes, this is one of the most striking lines at Shelf Road. Good job sending this one. It was above my ability in the early 1990s, and I was climbing well then. I knew it would eventually go. What a prize. I bolted it in Fall 1992.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : World Peace (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 20, 2014

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Comments: The original line was rated .11d/12a, but it traversed right below the crux. I retrobolted this line in Fall 2002 with the direct finish. The line now takes is harder than the original. I disagree it's only .12a. It seemed like solid .12b, and I redpointed it twice. I got the opinion of several climbers around 2003, who thought it was .12b. It seemed much harder than Eutopia at the Vault, Freeform, or The Gym ArÍte. It is definitely not as pumpy as Heavy Weather, but the crux moves are consi... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Frisky Cliff : Sin Gaz (5.12c/d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 5, 2014

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Comments: Sinopia is one of favorite climbs in Boulder Canyon in recent years. Sin Gaz is a bit contrived. Most all of Matt and Ted's sport routes are excellent. Van Damage on this crag is very worthwhile. There is a long list of great routes you guys put up and this is not one of them. I found myself using most of the handholds on Sinopia as footholds. I guess it would be possible to stay right of Sinopia's 5th bolt for different crux than climbing the same moves as Sinopia to 6th bolt. This might im... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 4, 2014

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Comments: Since 2003, when Tony Bubb submitted this page, much has changed at this crag. There weren't many routes here, and the existing ones were sparsely bolted with no top anchors. Several routes have retro-bolted, and many more have been added.
It's a fun crag with a nice selection of sport routefrom 5.8 to 5.12b. "Sick Puppy" (5.12b) is one of best slab climbs in Boulder Canyon.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Golden Rose (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 4, 2014

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Comments: A fun route with great route and nice goods. That said, it's not 5.12a but more like 5.11c/d. Compare it to any number of 12a climbs - The Good, The Bad & The Jacked, Free Fall, Boulder Quartz System, Empire Of The Fenceless, Mercy Drilling, and even Days Of Future Passed (which seems a little light for the grade) this route is not as hard. At the 5th bolt, it is possible to finish directly above the bolt (.11d) or move left then up. A bit more committing but easier.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Grizzly Rose (5.10c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 4, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for bolting this line. It's a great climb with nice jugs and several interesting 5.10 sections. A perfect warm up.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Heat Wave (5.9)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 4, 2014

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Comments: Yes, the name of the route is "Heat Wave", and I retro-bolted it in 2013 after leading it rope solo with its old bolts and gear. I have since climbed the route with several people, all who enjoyed it. So, what's your problem, Leo? Traditude or just picky? Having more bolts is nice. I originally finished up the rotten arete, but I now always climb directly up the face with a crux above the last bolt. When I retro-bolted it, I pulled off a large block that I had used as a clipping hold. The rou... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Double Dominatrix (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: I just made my 10th year anniversary ascent of this route, a few months past the actual day of the first ascent. It is still one of my favorite routes. I couldn't believe the chalk 6 or 7 feet left of the 2nd bolt. If you are climbing this far left you're avoiding the route first crux and are climbing a variation. You have no business downrating it. I could see rating the climb 5.12d/13a or as low as 5.12d, but it's not 5.12c.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Red Hot Chili Peppers (5.12c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: Yes, the direct start adds to the difficulty, but it's very avoidable. Here's the first ascent date for the climb:
First ascent: Mark Rolofson, Vaino Kodas, and Kirk Miller on June 14, 2014.
F.A. with direct start: John Flunker on June 27, 2014. Regardless of how you start it, the redpoint crux is still the finish. You can get a great rest below the 3rd bolt. Climbing past the 5th bolt involves a technical, insecure sequence that really makes the route! I've climbed it many times but rarely on... more >>


Location: CO : Coal Creek Canyon : Echo Canyon (aka The Scoop)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: Chris's info is very misleading. The crag is only 100-120 ft tall & probably not a half mile long. There are not 15 bolted climbs, only 5 (4 sport & one mixed)! Two routes share the same start to 6th bolt. So there is not enough independent climbs to keep more than 2-3 parties busy. Three parties would be a crowd. This is another reason this post needs to go.
Chris has admitted to me now in an email to painting the disgusting blue dots on hundreds of trees & rocks. I believe that is aga... more >>


Location: CO : Coal Creek Canyon : Echo Canyon (aka The Scoop)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: You need to take this posting of this website, Chris Harkness. You have done a real disservice to this area's climbers, by posting a crag that you know nothing about its name or routes. I know the cliff & route names, but I am not putting them on this website & nobody that visited here before you did either. I did not establish the 5 (not 15) bolted climbed, but I know who did. It should be up to them to decide when to first publish their climbs, not other climbers. The reason they haven't re... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Lower Security Risk : Central Insecurity (5.12d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 5, 2014

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Comments: Glad to see that Matt climbed this route. It is a great route that rarely gets done. I have not returned to repeat this technical vertical face now for 19 years. I established this route with Bob D'Antonio on February 3, 1995 & then repeated it a few days (redpointing it twice). Ian Spencer Greene redpointed it on the day I repeated it, being the second person to redpoint the route.
Since then, I have seen almost no one on this climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : The Juice (5.12d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 5, 2014

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Comments: I established "The Juice" in August 1994. I redpointed it 7 times over the next 2 years. My best day of climbing at this crag was redpointing The Juice, Plan B, Hot Flyer & Just A Little Insecure all on the same day. A great workout!
The Juice has 10 bolts / 2 bolt anchor. The crux is definitely height-dependent. This is why I rated it 5.12d/13a in my guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume I".


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Overhung Wall : Invisible Touch (5.12-)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 18, 2014

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Comments: This route is not 5.12a and was never rated that until Tony Bubb posted it on this website. Originally it was documented as .12d in a "Rock & Ice" Front Range Climbing Guide. After climbing the route, I rated it 5.12c in my "1993 Boulder Sport Climbers Guide". After returning to it last fall, I am still calling it that. It is quite hard at the 1st bolt & also past the 4th & 5th bolt.


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Battle of the Bulbus (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 18, 2014

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Comments: This is a good addition to the East Quarry Wall, even though not one of the 4 star classics. The climb has 5 protection bolts & 2 anchor bolts (saying it has 7 bolts, generally means protection bolts). Adding another bolt between the 3rd & 4th bolts would improve the climb, allowing the crux moves to be worked without taking whippers.

It is my understanding that the route can be climbed two different ways between 3rd & 4th bolts. The easier, indirect line goes left to "High Tide", then back ri... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 14, 2014

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Comments: I find it very frustrating that over the past 14 years, these crags have closed in February often through May for golden eagles. This is not a nesting site & this was proven by wildlife biologists (Brent Bibles of the Colorado Division of Wildlife & Dr. Rob Ramey, former director of Zoology at the Denver Museum of Nature & Science) in Summer 2004. The only egg shells found in the nest on the upper right side of Upper Security Risk were from ravens and were 25 years old. Climbers should voice th... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : High Tide (5.11+)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 9, 2014

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Comments: Quite difficult past first 3 bolts. Hard clip to 3rd bolt, unless the quickdraw is on it. There are only 5 protection bolts, not 6.


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Hairless Dog (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 9, 2014

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Comments: This climb has become slightly harder than it was originally, when I first climbed it in April 2010. I was going to rate this climb 5.12b, but the redpoint went down easy enough in the evening shade I decided on 5.12a/b. Henry Lester called it 5.12a. The climb has gotten harder at the 3rd bolt, from a foothold edge breaking off.
After returning to this climb almost 4 years later, I agree that it definitely deserves 5.12b and maybe 5.12b/c.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ignition (5.11d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Dec 5, 2013

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Comments: One of my favorite sport climbs in Eldorado. I was the person who put the anchor at the end of this pitch and placed what is now the 6th bolt in 1989. The anchor was not the last bolt as stated in the description. At the time, I was thinking I might be doing a first ascent, but it turned out Dan Hare had already climbed the route continuing up the crack above the anchor. The last (now 7th bolt) was already there along with a fixed stopper below it, but I thought maybe this is where "The Untouch... more >>


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