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Member Since: Oct 13, 2009
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Mark Roberts


Point Rank: # 676
Total Points: 922
Last Year: 92
Last 30 Days: 5
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mark Roberts been climbing?










Contributions


All 511 | Routes 61 | Areas 13 | Photos 3 | Page Improvments | Comments 102 | Posts 15 | Stars 216 | Ratings 101
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: Mark Roberts When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: It depends how you look at things. If you're counting the two pitches you climbed that take you to the ledge, then yes. Technically those pitches aren't part of St. Vitus though, so some would consider this the first pitch of St. Vitus Proper.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Laid Back (5.9+)
By: Mark Roberts When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Expected a layback, pleasantly surprised by a High Mountain Woody-style hands-to-rings straight-in crack guarded by a few techy 5.9 moves off the deck. Very friendly.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Chewbacca (5.10-)
By: Mark Roberts When: Aug 20, 2014

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Comments: Cool route, burly. Had to bail after the second pitch due to time, but looking forward to getting back and sealing the deal.

FWIW my partner and I both found the 2nd pitch chimney full-on, and harder than the first pitch. I tried to climb it straight in and didn't try many stemming or chimney moves, so this may have made it harder. Great fun though, and a bit of a novelty as chimneys seem so rare in Squish.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : March Of The Kitchen Utensi... (5.9)
By: Mark Roberts When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Holy cow. Hardest 5.9 in Squamish? Felt much harder than Ivan Meets GI Joe. Absolutely beautiful feature, quite unique. Get on it.

There are two 3/8" bolts for the anchor. If you're heading up, be an awesome person and take two quicklinks to leave on them for people to rap from as right now there's just a bunch of tat. You can also rap from the tree five feet past the anchor with a 70m, but be careful as 70m is just barely enough.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Ivan Meets GI Joe (5.10a)
By: Mark Roberts When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Great fun. Very pleasant climbing on pristine rock. Distinct crux with very secure climbing before and afterwards.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: What's going on with that pro? Some funny stuff going on here when you zoom in, haha.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Coronary Bypass (5.10a)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: You'll want tape for this one. A very hurty handjam is waiting over the lip, and you'll have to put a lot of weight on it to pull yourself over.

Looking down at the healing back of my right hand as I type this. I'm probably just soft.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Squatters Rights (5.6)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: Reminds me of Klahanie, except not as sustained. Very fun. Doubles from 1"-3", maybe a 0.75.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : First Class (5.8)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: An absolute gem. One of the best I can think of in Squish at the grade.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Out to Lunge (5.10a)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 1, 2014

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Comments: One move wonder, but the move is legitimately 5.10 I think, if not harder. All the jugs before and after keep the grade low.

Particularly enjoyed the mantle to the anchor. Really fun, just not the same grade as Split Beaver. Also, the route description seems to describe the right hand variation of Easter Island. Out To Lunge starts at the same place but takes a finger crack to the right before doubling back left along a lovely traverse.

Gear up to 1", maybe two .75s for the traverse. Small nut... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish
By: Mark Roberts When: Jun 4, 2014

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Comments: Hi JCG,

As far as crowds, the weekends are busy in the Summer to be certain, but there's tons of rock to go around. If you have your heart set on climbing Exasperator, Diedre, Skywalker, and Calculus Crack (or go cragging in the Smoke Bluffs) then you better also have your heart set on some early mornings or late afternoons. Climb the classics during the week and explore during the weekend.

The campground is pretty social, I've met a lot of people who just arrived with no contacts and have a ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Unnamed 10- (5.10-)
By: Mark Roberts When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: Why was he ashamed?


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Shortcut (5.4)
By: Mark Roberts When: Dec 17, 2013

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Comments: Why are you commenting on your own entries? You can just edit them.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Jingus the Cat (5.10)
By: Mark Roberts When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: It's getting pretty overgrown up here, or was a few months ago. It was so unpleasant that we didn't end up even climbing this rig, the mud caked on my shoes by the time I started laybacking was prohibitive. Leave your machete, bring a shovel.

On an unrelated note, last year a piece of rock pulled off near the crux. Apparently hasn't affected the difficulty much, but makes clipping the bolt harder. squamishclimbing.com/squamish_climbing_bb/viewtopic.php?f=2&>>>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Catch You (5.10c)
By: Mark Roberts When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: Yes, Catch You in the Bourdon Guide, Catch Me Quicker in the McLane guide.

3 Bolts, with gear in between (fingers mostly). The first flare after the first bolt is the place where you need to worry about having the right gear to keep you off the deck. I placed two blue metolius in this flare, one at the beginning and one at the end before launching out to the next bolt. Both looked bomber to me. As mentioned above, if you have offsets then this may be the place for them.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Catch Me Quick (5.10b)
By: Mark Roberts When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: As described, this route is listed as "Catch Me Quicker" in the Bourdon guide and "Catch Me Quick" in the McLane guide.

I also placed an orange Metolius at the crux, but wasn't happy with it. Two lobes were fully engaged, two were flaring. If I fell, the gear popped and I'd decked, I wouldn't be mad at the gear for it. On my way down I tried some nuts in that slot, found a WC #8 placed sideways was the only thing I had on my rack that would inspire confidence.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Peaches and Cream (5.10a)
By: Mark Roberts When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: This entry is quite misleading. For starters, it's not a straight slab climb. It climbs up the corner to the right of Burger's and Fries (such that you begin on a face-height pedestal). More importantly, this corner takes gear. Finger-sized gear to be specific, and if you didn't bring any you'd add extra ways to deck from this climb.

Finger-sized gear, 2 protection bolts (quite well-spaced) and a two-bolt anchor.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Ugly American (aka Ugly And... (5.10a)
By: Mark Roberts When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: I thought the crux was the bottom ten feet personally. Good climb, interesting positions and bomber hand jams. Don't know why it doesn't see more traffic. Things are starting to overgrow up top, still climbable though. The upper mantle is frustrating though, like there used to be a crack on top but it got filled with kitty litter. Bomber gear at your waist helps to pull this insecure move.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Flying Circus (5.10a)
By: Mark Roberts When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: Locker fingers, bomber gear, sustained width. Get some.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Coogee Crack (5.10c)
By: Mark Roberts When: Aug 10, 2013

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Comments: No surprises here. I agree with slim, good to do if you're waiting for something, but too short to be a destination. Fun though, short and sweet. Easier than Manana.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Manana (5.10b)
By: Mark Roberts When: Aug 10, 2013

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Comments: So fun! Techy, sustained and thoughtful for an honest 25m or so, then as the angle kicks back it's a fun romp with jugs and locks for another 25m. The business section climbs like the EPB variation of Skywalker, but harder. I recommend singles from grey Metolius to #3 Camalot, doubles from 0.4 to. 75, and some RPs to supplement your regular nuts. Also thought the route length is underestimated here, closer to 55m I reckon.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Caboose (5.10a)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: I haven't climbed Apron Strings, Split Pillar or Split Beaver yet, but I found Caboose significantly harder than Arrowroot, SM's Delight and Hand Jive. Also harder than Kangaroo Crack I think.

Quite thuggish and insecure. Locks flare, the inner crack feels remarkably smooth when you need friction.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Jungle Warfare (5.10a)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 22, 2013

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Comments: Anchor update: There is now a two-bolt anchor above the bulge, before the 5.7 handcrack part of pitch one. I suppose this was put in because, as I understand, many people break p1 into two because of rope drag after the initial cruxy section.

In addition, the tree that used to separate p1 proper from p2 has been chopped. This is the section right before the slippery polished bit of p2. While it's probably a good idea for route cleaning purposes, it's not exactly an ideal gear belay spot...ther... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Skywalker (5.8)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 6, 2013

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Comments: Tried the EPB variation today. Very fun, generously bolted and low in the grade. Much more interesting climbing than the last three pitches of Skywalker.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Reacharound (5.9+)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: Realest 5.9 I've ever climbed.

I agree with Hans' gear beta, despite appearances it does protect well with a standard rack, though I took and placed a #5 and was glad to have it.

You know you're at the right place if you find yourself staring up at a gaping maw, muttering "there's no way that's 5.9."

For a fun variation, stick to the overhanging handcrack at the beginning.


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