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Member Since: Oct 13, 2009
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Mark Roberts

Point Rank: # 710
Total Points: 985
Last Year: 63
Last 30 Days: 15
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mark Roberts been climbing?










Contributions


All 637 | Routes 65 | Areas 13 | Photos 3 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 122 | Posts 16 | Stars 289 | Ratings 128
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Splat (5.10d)
By: Mark Roberts When: 2 days ago

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Comments: The bottom sequence may look improbable at the grade, but holds in the right places just seem to appear out of nowhere. Cool features, worth doing.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Step 'n Stump (5.7)
By: Mark Roberts When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Fun stuff, wide technique without wide gear. Took a #4, saved it and never ended up placing it. I think 5.7 is sandbagging; the move over the initial bulge is at least 5.9. After that it's a romp - 5.7 butterflies and hand-fist stacks.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : St. Vitus' Dance (5.9)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 24, 2015

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Comments: I followed my gear beta from above yesterday and was woefully overburdened. Nick's gear recommendations are solid. I placed two #1s, two #2s, two #3s and two #4s, spaced out with other, much smaller gear. Could have done without the second #4 as there's a bomber 0.4 placement a foot above where I placed it. It was nice to make a gear belay at the top of that pitch with all those leftover #3s and #4s though.

If you really are maxed out with 5.9 hands, fi... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Xenolith Dance (5.10c)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 23, 2015

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Comments: A bit of a runout after the last bolt, but on easy ground. If you're queasy you could punch in some gear in the end of Manana - maybe a .4 Camalot? That's just eyeballing though.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Dora's Delight (5.8)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 23, 2015

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Comments: I agree with Slim, one runout above the only place to bust your ankles. I'd assume it was bolted on lead by the nature of the bolting.

Also, tie a knot in your rope before lowering. It's a long pitch, you might need to lower off into the gully on the right if you don't have a 79m.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Golden Labs (5.9+)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 23, 2015

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Comments: Awesome route, immaculate stone with excellent friction - crystals the size of your knuckles. The crux is not where it appears, the roof was solid hand jams throughout (but I've got big hands - the business is tight #3s). Surprisingly pumpy climbing to the chains. First class.

Good gear recommendation from Andy. I'd say doubles from .5-#3 Camalot, but you could place a .4 at the end. Also takes large nuts well. Extending your gear at the beginning can eliminate the risk of ... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Self Abuse (5.10)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 21, 2015

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Comments: Added quicklinks to the anchor bolts yesterday, you can rap easily now.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Pinky Locks (5.7+)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 18, 2015

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Comments: Good first gear lead if you like the approach.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Snorter (5.8)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 9, 2015

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Comments: Found this one significantly more challenging and less pleasant than its counterpart. Awkward.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Skullduggery (5.10a)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 8, 2015

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Comments: This crack is rad, but suggesting a standard rack puts you in a no-fall zone through quite a bit of strenuous climbing. Only fifteen feet up from the bolt can you even place a #5, and if you blew it you'd be having a bad day.

If you climb this without a #6 or Valley Giant I expect rope is only a decoration for you, or you think your ankles are in too few pieces.

Dope route though.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Dreams of Passion (5.11b PG13)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 7, 2015

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Comments: As of July 6 2015 the second highest bolt was completely stripped, just spinning in its hole.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Clean Crack (5.11b)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: Still off limits, yes.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Black Butterfly (5.9)
By: Mark Roberts When: May 24, 2015

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Comments: I didn't think about building a gear anchor, I just kept climbing until I got to the bolts above Veiled Illusion. I recommend this unless you're doing a big top-roping session, in which case a gear anchor directly over the route may make more sense.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Bulletheads East (5.10c)
By: Mark Roberts When: May 9, 2015

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Comments: Quality. The Bulletheads in general offer some really lovely granite and BHE is no exception.

I always find the 5.9 pitch quite tricky, especially managing rope drag. I've climbed it three times and can't seem to work out where the gear should go to avoid it. Bring lots of slings.

The roof on p2 and the sparse section that follows provides the mental crux for me, but the thin and non-locking fingers above are probably the actual crux. 5.10.

Highlight of the route was the p3 fingers pitch, b... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Something Short (5.11a)
By: Mark Roberts When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Wonderful splitter, packs a ton of climbing into 40ft going through all the sizes - tips, fingers, hands then rings/tight hands.

I'm not usually one for upgrading, but I think it's fair in this case. Every bit as pumpy as Gord's Block (another short-but-stout SB 10d/11a), but a little more technical. Cranking those ringlocks in full pump-mode put me in quite a state.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Hand Jive (5.10)
By: Mark Roberts When: Oct 1, 2014

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Comments: No, I agree Geoff. I climbed it again recently and found my own beta lacking, .5s and .75s are the order of the day.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: Mark Roberts When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: Good photo, but would recommend turning it upside down.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Flex Capacitor (5.10c)
By: Mark Roberts When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: Got on this again yesterday. The first pitch still felt insecure and engaging for the grade, but then I'm not really any better at slabby feet than I was the last time. Bomber protection though, and you're never too far from a fingerlock you could hang your body weight from.

The second pitch has some really amazing climbing: very positive holds, excellent protection and pleasant, continuous movement. Highly recommended if you're in the area and you've already climbed Exasperator.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Funarama (5.9)
By: Mark Roberts When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: Can definitely be protected safely at the top. I was surprised I kept getting opportunities to place higher gear. I placed a bomber yellow Metolius, but then a few feet higher squeaked in a grey 00 Metolius - the yellow will keep you off the ledge though. The topout moves are easier than they look.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Alexis Cracks (5.6)
By: Mark Roberts When: Sep 5, 2014

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Comments: All good fun, but the diagonal line is the best. Follow the diagonal all the way to the top for full value.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: Mark Roberts When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: It depends how you look at things. If you're counting the two pitches you climbed that take you to the ledge, then yes. Technically those pitches aren't part of St. Vitus though, so some would consider this the first pitch of St. Vitus Proper.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Laid Back (5.9+)
By: Mark Roberts When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Expected a layback, pleasantly surprised by a High Mountain Woody-style hands-to-rings straight-in crack guarded by a few techy 5.9 moves off the deck. Very friendly.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Chewbacca (5.10-)
By: Mark Roberts When: Aug 20, 2014

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Comments: Cool route, burly. Had to bail after the second pitch due to time, but looking forward to getting back and sealing the deal.

FWIW my partner and I both found the 2nd pitch chimney full-on, and harder than the first pitch. I tried to climb it straight in and didn't try many stemming or chimney moves, so this may have made it harder. Great fun though, and a bit of a novelty as chimneys seem so rare in Squish.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : March Of The Kitchen Utensi... (5.9)
By: Mark Roberts When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Holy cow. Hardest 5.9 in Squamish? Felt much harder than Ivan Meets GI Joe. Absolutely beautiful feature, quite unique. Get on it.

There are two 3/8" bolts for the anchor. If you're heading up, be an awesome person and take two quicklinks to leave on them for people to rap from as right now there's just a bunch of tat. You can also rap from the tree five feet past the anchor with a 70m, but be careful as 70m is just barely enough.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Ivan Meets GI Joe (5.10a)
By: Mark Roberts When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Great fun. Very pleasant climbing on pristine rock. Distinct crux with very secure climbing before and afterwards.


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