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Kor Roof on a windy day. Hard to tell which way is up here! Basically into the photo, up about 45 degrees, rotated 30 degrees clockwise.


Member Since: Oct 3, 2009
Last Visit: Apr 15, 2014
Contact Mark P Thomas


Point Rank: # 3,358
Total Points: 127
Last Year: 8
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (842) | Routes | Areas | Photos (4) | Comments (107) | Posts (67) | Stars (366) | Ratings (298)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Remillard Park : Pinnacle Rock
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 24, 2010

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Comments: This rock is also good for practicing self-rescue techniques like assisted rappels and hauling up an injured second.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Remillard Park : Plaque Rock
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 24, 2010

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Comments: This rock is an ideal place to practice self-rescue. Hang-belay off the bolts and set up your hauling system there for raising a fellow climber off the ground!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Prune Face Slab : Prune Face (5.9+ R)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 24, 2010

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Comments: Ahh, that explains it. The beginning felt a lot harder than 5.9! Although you can make it easier by using the tree :-)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Wop Dego (5.5)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 24, 2010

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Comments: NOT 4th class. Somewhere between 5.3-5.5 feels right. Nice for drytooling since it's so dirty anyways.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lisa Falls : Lisa Falls Buttress : Sweep Left (5.10b)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 24, 2010

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Comments: What's fun about the crux is when you get fed up with falling on it, you can attempt to sprint up the slab and past it. However, this is futile as your legs spin out like a cartoon character as you slowly slip back down.

I found two ways to get past the crux. One involves quads of steel, and the other is more elegant with better technique :-)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Mt. Superior / Monte Cristo : The Cottonwood Traverse (5.6)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 24, 2010

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Comments: The WURL is on my list. So is doing this ridge as a 2-3 day winter ascent via the valley. What a great ridge run in summer, eh?! More like III in summer if you're reasonably fit for mountaineering, though I could see it being IV for others. Mostly cl. 2-3, with one cl. 4 crux near Monte Cristo.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Knob Hill : Pot Belly (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 15, 2010

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Comments: These comments make me feel better about climbing so poorly on 5.8 slab. After sliding/falling 3 times on the start when leading, I chose the undercling variation, which is much more manageable (although it would be ugly if you fell near the end, as if your feet popped out on the slick granite, you would smash your face into the undercling lip before you fell to the ground). I could do it on TR, but it felt really hard! Perhaps it has gotten slicker over the years?

Ditto about the crack above. ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Knob Hill : Anti-Ego Crack (5.6)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 15, 2010

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Comments: I would have given this 3 stars if the wide crack ran longer! That crack was a good place to practice leapfrogging pro (though I only had one cam to move!). Steep, but very secure jams.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Uncle Fanny (5.7)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 14, 2010

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Comments: Easier than the 5.7 OW on Crescent Crack in Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT, with better pro too! Awkward enough to get you working, but once you figure out a ratcheting sequence, it's not too bad and never insecure. I spent more time deciding which side to put in than on figuring out any later moves (ultimately I chose left-side in).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Trashcan Rock : Trashcan Rock - East Face : Right Sawdust Crack (5.8)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Nov 28, 2010

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Comments: The crack itself is very solid with straightforward jams, though I found it pretty pumpy to place pro, partly due to the steepness & the slanting orientation of the crack. It makes for a great downclimb as well - especially after TR'ing Left Sawdust Crack.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Trashcan Rock : Trashcan Rock - East Face : Filch (5.5)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Nov 28, 2010

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Comments: Second that on the thin pro. I brought fat stuff, but the OW was too wide for any of it! Instead, I used my smaller cams on a thin crack in the back.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Alternatives to Yosemite (Govt Shutdown)General ClimbingMark P ThomasOct 1, 2013
re: Ice Climbing in the area?Northern CaliforniaMark P ThomasOct 11, 2012
re: Ice Climbing in the area?Northern CaliforniaMark P ThomasOct 4, 2012
re: Ice Climbing in the area?Northern CaliforniaMark P ThomasOct 3, 2012
Palisade Glacier & Area Snow Conditions?Northern CaliforniaMark P ThomasSep 27, 2012
re: Craziest Summit ShenaniganGeneral ClimbingMark P ThomasSep 27, 2012
re: High Sierras now 'till whenever?Northern California PartnersMark P ThomasJun 25, 2012
re: High Sierras now 'till whenever?Northern California PartnersMark P ThomasJun 19, 2012
Questions RE: Lightweight/Low Volume Bag Setup for ClimbingClimbing Gear DiscussionMark P ThomasMay 31, 2012
re: 5.10 Moccasym Fit For Big Feet QuestionClimbing Gear DiscussionMark P ThomasApr 20, 2012
5.10 Moccasym Fit For Big Feet QuestionClimbing Gear DiscussionMark P ThomasApr 20, 2012
re: Who Trails the Rope?Climbing Gear DiscussionMark P ThomasApr 20, 2012
re: Crack Ratings at PG PresidioNorthern CaliforniaMark P ThomasMar 14, 2012
re: A few days in the Bay AreaNorthern CaliforniaMark P ThomasMar 13, 2012
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