Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Kor Roof on a windy day. Hard to tell which way is up here! Basically into the photo, up about 45 degrees, rotated 30 degrees clockwise.


Member Since: Oct 3, 2009
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Mark P Thomas


Point Rank: # 3,541
Total Points: 127
Last Year: 2
Last 30 Days: 0
0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mark P Thomas been climbing?










Contributions


All 842 | Routes | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 107 | Posts 67 | Stars 366 | Ratings 298
Page 4 of 34.  <<First   <Prev   2  3  4  5  6   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : 24 Unknown (5.9+)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Nov 28, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Climb the 5.6 OW on the right side of the block for more fun. The crux on that one is entering the OW. #6 Camalots are the only thing needed for protection.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Twin Cracks (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Nov 28, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Anyone know about that second pitch? It looks enticing - especially climbing the OW variation behind the flake, assuming you can protect it!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Phallus : The Phallus (5.7 A2+)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Nov 8, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Considering the Park's restrictions on pitons now, does anyone know if this route has been done clean? Clean rating & rack?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jun 7, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Call me silly, but I found P2 to be a good deal harder than P1. P1 was scarier until you've protected after the step-across, but otherwise, I wonder how P2 gets a lower rating? Superb climb and excellent for every foot of it to the top of the last pitch!

In addition too, linking P1 & P2, with 70m doubles we easily linked P3 & P4. It could possibly work with a 60m single if you are smart with your pro placements on the first part of P4 and don't mind running that part out.

BTW, my 5.8 rating is... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Swan Slab : Bay Tree Crack (5.6)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jun 7, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: With 70m doubles I easily did this on 1 long pitch from the ground. A 60m might work if you're careful with rope drag.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Swan Slab : Swan Slab Gully (5.6)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jun 7, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: With a 70m rope the first 2 pitches link nicely :-) Though hard to follow at times, there is a climbers trail that cuts through the brush above and down a gully to the West.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Super Slide (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jun 7, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Great linkup with Trial by Fire to avoid the boring approach pitch. Lower section is a bit dirty & forgettable but the final 5.9 section is SWEET!

P4 & the belay above was pouring with water when I did the route this May. P5 was dry at the crux though. Sunshine did manage to burn off the water on the route.

On Trial by Fire my second noticed a grapefruit-sized rock fall near him and it was NOT from a climber above.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Trial By Fire (5.8)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jun 7, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Harder than it looks! Bring a gear sling (for convenience) & wide gear (I placed 2 #4 & #5 4CUs & 1 #3 that barely worked). 2nd pitch linkup to SS is fun and not too dirty. I found it reasonable to step left from the chockstone left and cross a face to a crack system to bypass the first 'roof'. At the second 'roof' I cut left and found a tree with rap slings and enough spare rope to get to the base of P2 on Superslide in one pitch.

I highly recommend linking this route up with... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : The Surprise (5.10a)
By: Mark P Thomas When: May 23, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Fell at the .10a crux when a crimper flake broke off. Something not too common on a route in the Valley! Apparently this route doesn't get climbed a lot :-) Really fun last 2 pitches though. 1st pitch was dirty & forgettable.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Curry Village : Circuit Breaker (V2)
By: Mark P Thomas When: May 10, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: I'm a trad climber. What is this in YDS? I originally heard it was 5.10d but every conversion chart I've seen would place V2 at 5.11a/b to 5.11d, more consistently at 5.11+/5.11d.

Really fun. 3 move crux then it gets gradually easier. It leaves your finger tips feeling hot!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Generator Station : Generator Crack (5.10c)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Apr 5, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Bottom section goes well with hand stacks and a calf jam. Once you're high enough to shove a leg in, you can do a double-fisted hand stack for a couple of moves before climbing all the way inside! If you have thoughtful footwork you can take your time and rest throughout this part (e.g. once your thigh is inside you can tuck the foot back outside the crack for a bomber knee jam rest).

I've found the best way around the projecting flake is to tunnel inside. I didn't believe I could fit, and I st... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cascade Area : Cascade Falls - Left : Golden Needles (5.8)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Apr 5, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Maybe I climbed it wrong, but I found the crux to be entering the double cracks from the belay. It was pumpy, awkward, and hard! The 2 5.8 roofs are intimidating but go easily if you find the footholds on the face.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Swan Slab : Grant's Crack (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Apr 5, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Eats nuts nicely too, and these leave more room for fingers.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Swan Slab : Swan Slab Squeeze (5.7)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Apr 5, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Led this yesterday. A questionable #6 Camelot works 1/4 of the way up the crack if you place it deep. A bomber microcam works in the horizontal seam on the left at about 3/4 of the way up. Although you can climb most of this on the face outside, if you actually stay in the Squeeze fairly deep it is very secure and doesn't seem runout. I don't think it would have felt any worse if I only placed the TCU and no Camleot.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : After Seven (5.8)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Apr 5, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: with a 60 m you can do two rappels from above Jump for Joy & Haley's Comet to those route bolts and then a second rappel from there. The bolts at the second rappel are a bit sketchy though . . .

Much easier and better protected than the 5.8 pitch of C.S. Concerto.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Haley's Comet (5.10a PG13)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Apr 5, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: The bolts at the top of the route (midway down the face) could use some maintenance. One looks to be an old buttonhead (?) and the newer bolt has a spinning hangar with a loose nut. It was halfway off the projecting bolt shaft when we came by the anchor!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Jump for Joy (5.9 R)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Apr 5, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: The bolts at the top of the route (midway down the face) could use some maintenance. One looks to be an old buttonhead (?) and the newer bolt has a spinning hangar with a loose nut. It was halfway off the projecting bolt shaft when we came by the anchor!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : Bongs Away, Left (5.8)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Feb 7, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: After climbing, make sure to TR Bong's Away, Center (5.10a). It is a great OW - clean, sustained, and very exposed. It starts thin and widens to hand stacks. It has some nice calf to knee jams too. Either downclimb the top of the 2nd pitch of the Regular Route to follow the line (a little dirty on the lower part), or swing over from the ledge to the start (it is much cleaner from here on up).


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Bishops Terrace (5.8)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Feb 7, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: It is not necessary to use the alternate start to do the 5.7 OW variation, despite how it appears in SuperTopo. The alternate start sucks in several ways compared to the standard start. I don't see any reason to use it unless you're climbing with a 50m rope.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Black is Brown (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Feb 7, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: I agree with kennoyce's comment. Going further right the terrain stays more mild, but pro is sparse and many of the moves are on slab or seams with lots of loose grit to make things slippery.

The route might actually be a lot nicer staying in the crack and doing the .10a variation.

Also note that the area above the route is extremely loose - worse than the Five Open Books Area. We knocked a rock off at the rappel and it landed near the base of Uncle Fanny & Church Bowl Lieback.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Church Bowl Terrace (5.8)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Feb 7, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: I'm all for fighting grade creep, but at least in relative terms, compared to other 5.8 chimneys I've climbed in the valley, and the 5.9 squeeze section of the final 20' of Generator Crack (according to SuperTopo), this was MUCH harder physically and technically!

Hmm, or maybe I should have attempted to jam the inside crack more - but that seemed like less fun :-D

Really fun and aggressively flared. It is a tad wet near the top in winter, but still doable.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Sunnyside Bench : Lemon (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jan 25, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Setting up a TR by rapping from the 1st pitch of Jamcrack isn't too difficult, despite what SuperTopo says. Rapping from the higher anchor is unnecessary.

As of January 2011 the tree is gone, but so are the new bolts :-( There are threads but no hangers. There is one old rusty bolt that I would barely trust for a rappel much less a TR. However, you could make a gear anchor to TR, then clean it on rappel.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Sunnyside Bench : Lazy Bum (5.10d)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jan 25, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: 2nd pitch can be TRed from the 2nd pitch Jamcrack anchor and is a fun climb. A directional is recommended. We used the hanging flake just to the right of Lazy Bum.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : Ejesta (5.8)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jan 18, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: There is a 'fixed' BD #4 in the wide section as of January 2011. That part is pretty easy if you know how to bridge your feet - you can just walk up it and use your hands to steady yourself.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : After Six (5.6)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jan 18, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: The first "5.6" pitch was the hardest 5.7 I've led in the Valley, and I've led a lot of them. Then again, the route was a bit wet too (in January).

The 5.8 finishes are fun. The triple crack is good, and the roof is a burly-yet-solid bouldering move. Place a very small TCU high in the roof to avoid a bad fall, or bypass it to the left via a 5.4 slab after climbing the 5.8 crack variation. (I did the roof on TR after bypassing it since I didn't have pro for it).


Page 4 of 34.  <<First   <Prev   2  3  4  5  6   Next>   Last>>