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Kor Roof on a windy day. Hard to tell which way is...


Member Since: Oct 3, 2009
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 842 | Routes | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 107 | Posts 67 | Stars 366 | Ratings 298
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : East Buttress (5.10b)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Nov 22, 2012

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Comments: I'd call the P1 chimney 5.8 at most, being generous. The only 5.9 on that pitch is the end.

Please don't be obnoxious and haul packs. It is plenty reasonable to trail packs on P1, and if they are kept small and light, it is no big deal leading with a pack on the rest of the pitches. The party in front of us hauled 2 packs for most of the pitches!

A better way to aid the crux if you're in a hurry, is to do the following (better with double ropes for the second to follow!):

From the P1 anchor, ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Happy Turk Hoodoo : The Happy Turk (5.8 C1)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Nov 22, 2012

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Comments: Road is still closed to vehicles, but the bar is still there.

First reachy bolt is easier to stick clip if someone stands to the side and instructs the clipper as to the height and rotation of the stick clip.

The links forced me to sacrifice a little distance by clipping draws first and then my aiders. A third aider or clipping aiders in pairs makes the overhanging bulges much easier to deal with.

I managed to get the final reachy bolt by snagging a shallow two-finger divot on my left afte... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Happy Turk Hoodoo : The Happy Turk (5.8 C1) : Photo
By: Mark P Thomas When: Nov 22, 2012

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Comments: It is easier if someone stands to the side and instructs the clipper as to how to adjust the height and rotation of the clip stick. We tried clipping it for a good while before doing this, and once trying it, it only took about a minute.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Middle Teton : North Ridge (5.5)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Oct 4, 2012

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Comments: Took us about an hour to summit and about 40 min to descend. The notch was dry when we climbed it, and it was no big deal to solo it, so the rack and shoes were unnecessary, though the rope was nice to rappel into the notch. Other rappels were easy to downclimb around, so I assume people use them when the route is more snow covered?

Make sure to climb Bonney's Pinnacle and Pinocchio Pinnacle on the way down. They have nice views of the Grand and are a very short and fun scrambling detour.


Location: Mark and Stacy Egan : Rope Rug : Photo
By: Mark P Thomas When: Sep 25, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for the demo! I made a scaled up version with my 70m double ropes. Dual colored with 6 thin strands for each line from 3 rounds of weaving.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : Great White Book (5.6 R)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Aug 6, 2012

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Comments: If you know how to handle basic chimneys & OW, 1 set of cams from #0.3-#6 C4 is enough for plenty secure climbing. Just make sure you realize that this is the real deal for wide climbing and make sure you're familiar with pushing & resetting cams.

Don't get sucked too far in? I climbed all of the wide pitches left side in and went deep inside on the squeeze chimney parts. I was super solid and secure, singing and taking pictures the whole way on lead. Burrow in, just don't get stuck... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Russell : Mithril Dihedral (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: I was very winded hopping on this route about 12 hrs after leaving sea level. Still, even with the thin-air-leading-with-pack pant-fest, I'd have to say the route honestly is 5.9 or 5.9+ by the hardest technical move. Hands-free or hands-less pant rests are there for nearly every few moves on the entire route if you know how to rest in a crack that is in a corner with face features. However, if you want to do the route clean and solid, you should be a 5.10 leader as the climbing is sustained and... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Russell : Mithril Dihedral (5.9) : Photo
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: Is it really that easy to lieback that section? Or am I just that weird?

To me it seemed easiest to jam it straight in with some stemming in the corner for most of the way, then stem and jam into the next crack on climber's right (behind) to finish. However, I didn't place pro in the next crack, so my follower blazed straight up the flake, liebacking.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Goode : North Buttress (5.9) : Photo
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jun 19, 2012

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Comments: I actually found this more helpful than the SuperTopo topo in many ways. Thanks for the great photo topo!

P3 & P4 distances are a little off. I managed to link them with a 70m rope and had about 10 ft of rope left, so combined they should be about 220' to a great ledge.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Clyde Minaret : Southeast Face (5.8)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jun 8, 2012

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Comments: Direct start is 5.9 and really not much harder than some of the cruxes higher up. Way too easy for the 5.10a that Croft gives it. Really fun, clean and worth doing. Frankly, we found the technical crux to be a move right off the belay on one of the last 5.8 pitches higher up. The route is stout enough that if you're strong and fast enough to do the route solidly, you should be able to handle the direct start, so don't skip it!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Devil's Golf Ball : Regular Route (5.9 A2-)
By: Mark P Thomas When: May 3, 2012

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Comments: This is still on the list to climb, but . . .

I walked up to the start of the route last weekend for a good look, and I think you need more than just a standard desert rack (unless nuts are part of that). I'm pretty sure you'd need rivet hangers or nuts to use for the bolt ladder? I saw bolt heads but no hangers. Looks like fun!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Apr 30, 2012

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Comments: P1 - First chimney isn't that bad if you go all the way inside. When the slickness becomes a problem, just grab the inside corner edge (where the other chimney intersects) and jam your foot in the crack on the outside corner of the two intersecting chimneys. Ratchet-ratchet.

P2 - 2 guidebooks descriptions & topos talked about 2 cracks, so I was confused with seeing 3 options. I tried the middle crack, which was a tricky & wide #4 Camalot Crack. After I saw my cam slide down the crack as I... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Binge and Purge (5.11b)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Apr 30, 2012

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Comments: Gave up trying to fit through the chimney on this one. No need to lieback the outside, though. You can leg bar the inside leg & chimney/stem with the outside leg, and work up the chickenwing until you're high enough to grab the knobby corner. Press both hands tight on that and do a mantle! Upper OW is fun & straightforward armbars & heel-toes. Some cheater holds near the end make the final overhanging bit pretty reasonable.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Incredible Hand Crack (5.10c)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Apr 30, 2012

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Comments: 5.10c? Most of this route was tight for my hands, but not .10c tight. I got tired in the roof and hung out on hand & foot jams to rest before continuing up. No way I see myself doing that at the crux on a .10c!

To me the roof seemed easier than the crux move to the pedestal on Super Crack but harder than the main event of Super Crack, which for me was comfortable cupped hands.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Wavy Gravy (5.10) : Photo
By: Mark P Thomas When: Apr 25, 2012

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Comments: Where's the tape marking?! Is that on route?!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Creek Area : Tilted Mitten, Right Side (5.8)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Apr 24, 2012

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Comments: The 5.9 option for P1 is interesting, though a bit dirty. Climb an awkward lieback jam that quickly becomes an bit of an offwidth (Bring a #5 Camalot to slide up this part). I found it best to stay left-side in and you find some features on your right to work with. Continue up to where it levels out and thin lieback around the corner to gain the belay to start P2. Gear at the lieback is a bit suspect.

The P2 OW crux can be protected by pushing a #5 Camalot, though it is pretty unst... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Creek Area : Tilted Mitten, Left Side (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Apr 24, 2012

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Comments: It looks like you can avoid the bad pitch and step over at the tree by taking the 5.9 variation to the Right Side and staying on the flake/ledge rather than liebacking up to P2 of the Right Side. A little dirty, but not too bad and has some interesting OWish moves.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Creek Area : Pharaoh's Beard, Regular Ro... (5.8)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Apr 24, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for adding the nut! That anchor is a little sketchy. 5.8 OW was pretty fun & the summit is really cool.

Also, this climb gets a lot of shade so it is good on a hot day. Last weekend there is a nice snowmelt waterfall next to the Mitten, which was very nice to splash in once the sun started to shine on us.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Camp 4 Wall : Secret Storm (5.10a)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Apr 24, 2012

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Comments: Definitely use a belay on the approach pitch. I'd call it 5.4-5.5 with loose dirt & bushwacking. It kind of sucks, but the real pitch is worth the effort. Make sure to stay further right than you think. Don't take the midway ledge across but hug the wall and keep going up until you reach a rapp anchor off of the tree.

There isn't that much loose rock, though the top belay anchor is a little unnerving as it is two very old bolts backed up by webbing slung through a very hollow knifeblade flake. ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Harts Draw
By: Mark P Thomas When: Mar 17, 2012

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Comments: You sure got my attention. I couldn't believe there would be so many beta posts over just 1 month! :-)


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Chicken Fever (5.10b)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: The start on this one is a little tricky. Higher up there is some fun mixed techniques of jamming, stemming & flared chimneying. The route looks like it takes good pro until you are past the roof. If you don't want to be in semi-runout knob territory, it looks like it is a small step right to merge with the upper crack of P2 of Sherrie's Crack, which takes some small gear.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Gilligan's Chicken (5.7)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: I agree that the entry in the beginning is perhaps the crux of the route. Although I could have gotten by without it, I was happy to have a #6 BD cam to protect the entry.

The chimney is very secure with lots of cheater holds to help your arms & legs. You can place pro in the chimney without too much drag (note I was climbing with doubles). There is a thin seam that occasionally opens up, so I placed a nut and small C3, 'cause I might as well! More optional than the entry piece. The exit ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Generator Station : Generator Crack (5.10c) : Photo
By: Mark P Thomas When: Mar 5, 2012

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Comments: Ahh, the other fist is hidden behind the crack edge. Good to know the giant chickens don't have too big of an advantage on the offwidths . . .


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Highway Star : Highway Star (5.10a)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Mar 5, 2012

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Comments: 10b variation looks to be a lead you'd want to do with double ropes to avoid terrible rope drag while still protecting the leader from a dangerous fall at the crux.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Sherrie's Crack (5.10c)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Mar 5, 2012

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Comments: If your follower has trouble on the lower crack, they can use your first cam or 2 to jumar the crack while on belay :-)

This crack eats up cams & nuts, so you can protect it very well. Great & safe climb to push your crack leading.

I have fat hands, so I could never get a good rest on the 5.9 above, apart from stepping left on the large knob about 3/4 up the 5.9 corner. However, the finger jams lower down were bomber. Stem your feet to keep your weight in line below the finger jams. The wide g... more >>


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