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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Uncertainty Principle Area : Silk Banana (5.12-)
By: Mark K When: Feb 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: On a hill full of physical climbing, silk banana really stands out as one of the burliest problems, and one of the best. As with most climbs, assigning a grade to this problem is not easy, but it is certainly not 12-. Personally, I don't think a route grade makes any sense in the case of SB as it is short, hard, and powerful; in short, it is a boulder problem. As such, it deserves a bouldering grade. Trying to convert bouldering grades into route grades is just silly, there is a reason... more >>
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Santee Boulders : Dog Pile Area : Suzie's Boulder : Suzy's Discharge (V8)
By: Mark K When: Jan 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The stand starts is probably about V7. Although it might not be much to look at, the climbing is great. It's pretty cool that new school problems like this exist at Santee.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Junior's Achievement (V8)
By: Mark K When: Dec 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of my favorite at the milks; cool holds and interesting body english. There seems to be some grade debate on this one. To me, it felt V7.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Good Morning Sunshine (V1 PG13)
By: Mark K When: Oct 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: For the full value experience, don't cheat out to the arete at the top of this one. Great and exciting problem!
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : The Blank (5.10a)
By: Mark K When: Jul 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This can easily be done in two pitches, linking 1&2 and 3&4, with a 70 (I'm pretty sure a 60 would be fine as well). Very fun route.
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Taboo Area : Forbidden Fruit (5.12a)
By: Mark K When: Apr 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb but odd bolt placements. Many bolts are placed just out of reach from a good stance. It seems this pitch would be considerably easier with draws pre-hung. Great climbing none the less.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : The Summit Area : Firefly (5.11b)
By: Mark K When: Mar 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely a climb which is greater than the sum of its parts. Continuous burly lie-backing with glassy feet makes the difficulty lie not so much in the individual moves, but in holding on for the whole ride. With an easy approach, this is a must do if in the area.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Central Oaks Area : Phantom Crack? (5.9)
By: Mark K When: Feb 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm pretty sure this is Phantom Crack (5.9), FA'd b.i.t.d.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Uncertainty Principle Area : Kurtains For Certain (5.12)
By: Mark K When: Dec 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: In my opinion, even better than Uncertainty Principle. The traverse at the start is hard, and it doesn't let up much after that. Great climbing on great rock.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Out of Sight Boulder Area : PhD (5.12a)
By: Mark K When: Nov 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a drilled mono pocket right in the crux sequence. We were able to avoid it without adding too much difficulty; perhaps making it more solid at the 12a grade.
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Location: OR : The Columns : Hard Lieback (5.9)
By: Mark K When: Oct 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Better than fat crack in my opinion. Perfect blue tcu's most of the way to a nice hand crack at the top. My favorite at the columns.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Poison Oak Boulder Area : Slap You Silly (5.12b) : Photo
By: Mark K When: Oct 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Priceless shot.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Schultz's Ridge : Demon's Delight (5.11a PG13)
By: Mark K When: Sep 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super fun and unique climbing. Don't let the mantle scare you, it's well protected and not too bad. Good climb to avoid the crowds.
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