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Rain Dance, 5.10a


Member Since: Jun 29, 2010
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Marius vanderMerwe


Point Rank: # 852
Total Points: 790
Last Year: 7
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Marius vanderMerwe

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 322 | Routes 40 | Areas 1 | Photos 69 | Page Improvements | Comments 30 | Posts 6 | Stars 108 | Ratings 68
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Saint George : Pioneer Park : Picnic Table : The Sun Traverse (V-easy)
By: Marius vanderMerwe When: Feb 4, 2015

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Comments: This wall (and the long traverse associated with it) has always been known as The Sun Traverse over the many years its been climbed and extended (at least among the climbers in my circle).

It is called The Sun Traverse because it is SW-facing and one of the best winter spots for bouldering.

Great job on adding this info to MP btw!


Location: UT : Saint George : Pioneer Park : Picnic Table : Failure to Launch (V2)
By: Marius vanderMerwe When: Feb 4, 2015

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Comments: This line has been tried several times over the years, but with only one top-out that I saw (by Martae Martineau). As far as I know nobody bothered to name it though.


Location: UT : Saint George : Pioneer Park : Picnic Table : Picnic Table Traverse (V3)
By: Marius vanderMerwe When: Feb 4, 2015

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Comments: Marc Hansen and I first developed this traverse several years ago and worked away all the loose pieces. We have always been referring to it as The Picnic Table traverse. It used to extend leftwards (facing the wall) for a few extra moves, but a crucial hold broke. Currently the traverse goes for much longer rightwards than indicated in your photo: It extends right for a few moves, then up and around the corner onto a thin and slabby section. Your photo only shows about one third of the whole tra... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Shady Side : Unknown (5.11b)
By: Marius vanderMerwe When: Jan 21, 2015

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Comments: This is my favorite 5.11 at Black Rocks (no idea who put it up or what its name is though).


Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Island In The Sky : Aftershock Wall : Legends Never Die (5.11+)
By: Marius vanderMerwe When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: Only tried the first pitch, but I agree, it felt harder than 11c. Maybe I just don't have the finger strength for laybacking on those small holds (and my feet were slipping off all the time too!) Great route.


Location: UT : Saint George : Shotgun Alley : Quick Sand (5.7)
By: Marius vanderMerwe When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: Someone decided to remove the two pretty cacti that were next to the two anchor bolts for this route. This makes me sad. With just a little care it was easy to set up the anchor without getting poked by the thorns. So much for minimal impact climbing I guess.


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Grumpy Old Men (5.10b)
By: Marius vanderMerwe When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: I hope the bolts were added with the blessing of the first ascensionists. If so, then fine. If not, then please don't modify the routes. There are plenty of other routes with closely spaced bolts to go and climb. This is climbing ethics 101.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Sunny Side : Gravitational Attraction (5.11a/b)
By: Marius vanderMerwe When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: Crimpy direct start. The start moves may qualify as 5.11 if encountered higher up on a long route. Pulling the crimps right off the ground with fresh arms make it feel more like 5.10+. The rest of the climb is a formality.


Location: UT : Saint George : Turtle Wall : Knuckle Bones (5.10c)
By: Marius vanderMerwe When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: Finger-pulley-poppin'-crimp-fest. So be warned and plant those feet very carefully. Sandbagged at 10c.


Location: UT : Saint George : Pine Valley
By: Marius vanderMerwe When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: The crag gets plenty of morning sun baking on the rocks and is relatively sheltered from wind resulting in a microclimate that can be quite a bit warmer from that of Pine Valley as a whole. However, good winter climbing conditions are far from guaranteed given the high likelihood of winter snow for the area. Luckily, if that happens, it is a short 30-40 minute drive to several low and relatively warm desert climbing areas below.


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Jezabel (5.10b)
By: Marius vanderMerwe When: Jun 20, 2013

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Comments: Did this crack with Jake Woerner in the fall of 2012. Jake spotted it and wanted to practice his gear placements. We encountered quite a bit of loose rock towards the top of it. Otherwise a fun climb with an interesting crux.


Location: UT : Saint George : Photo
By: Marius vanderMerwe When: Apr 24, 2013

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Comments: Dramatic shot!


Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Island In The Sky : War Zone : Dr Yes (5.10d)
By: Marius vanderMerwe When: Mar 26, 2013

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Comments: To me it felt like 10c with the drilled pockets and 11a without using the drilled pockets. A good example of how not to develop a route.


Location: UT : Saint George : Pioneer Park : The Narrow : Unknown 4 (5.10d)
By: Marius vanderMerwe When: Jan 24, 2013

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Comments: Nate, you are a brave man trusting those thin bolts in what is in some places on these routes not much more than compacted sand! Felt like about 10d to me too (on top rope).


Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Island In The Sky : Dip Area : Under The Sleeping Giant (5.6)
By: Marius vanderMerwe When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: Instead of lowering or rappelling from the top, another option is to walk towards the back and around for an easy downwards scramble to the ground.


Location: UT : Saint George : Pioneer Park : Bird Nest Boulder : Choss Tower (5.9)
By: Marius vanderMerwe When: Oct 10, 2012

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Comments: For an even more challenging option up the Choss Tower, go straight up the arete. This variant is in 5.11 territory.


Location: UT : Saint George : Pine Valley : Tetas De Cabre : Derecho del Colibrí (5.10c)
By: Marius vanderMerwe When: Jun 16, 2012

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Comments: Relaxing lead due to plentiful opportunities for rest. Fun climb with a thin early traverse (the crux) followed by mantles and big holds. Stepping on the hollow flake near the end is definitely the most scary part of the climb.


Location: UT : Saint George : Pine Valley : Unemployment wall : Welcome to Unemployment (5.11c)
By: Marius vanderMerwe When: Apr 22, 2012

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Comments: Great climb. Love the techy face moves. Very interesting finish.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Shady Side West : Primeval Atmosphere (5.11c)
By: Marius vanderMerwe When: Jan 23, 2012

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Comments: First bolt is high off the ground with a dangerous landing area (and for me the bottom moves felt like the hardest on the route). I suggest bringing your stick clip or do as a top rope.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Shady Side West : Subdivisions (5.9)
By: Marius vanderMerwe When: Jan 14, 2012

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Comments: Start felt harder than 5.9.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Shady Side West : Chromatic Aberration (5.9)
By: Marius vanderMerwe When: Jan 14, 2012

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Comments: Height-dependent route that is only 5.9 if you are short (and significantly easier if you are not).


Location: UT : Saint George : Pine Valley : Lewis Carroll Wall : Red Queen (5.11c)
By: Marius vanderMerwe When: Jan 12, 2012

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Comments: Glad you liked it. Thanks for introducing me to the area. It is going to be my favorite climbing spot in the summer.


Location: UT : Saint George : Shotgun Alley
By: Marius vanderMerwe When: Oct 21, 2011

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Comments: The routes west of the river are a bit of a pain to get to since you have to wade the river and then negotiate the talus slope. They also tend to be steeper, harder, and more painful on the fingers.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Sunny Side : Oh My Hell (5.10c)
By: Marius vanderMerwe When: Aug 25, 2011

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Comments: Sustained and interesting. A candidate for the best 5.10 at Black Rocks.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Shady Side : Polluting the Gene Pool (5.11a/b)
By: Marius vanderMerwe When: Aug 23, 2011

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Comments: Moderate 5.10 climbing all the way to right below the anchor. Clipping the anchor while side-pulling on a crimper is the only challenge for the 5.11 climber.


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