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Member Since: Dec 24, 2007
Last Visit: Nov 27, 2012
Contact Marcus garcia


Point Rank: # 4,828
Total Points: 84
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Marcus garcia been climbing?










Contributions


All 40 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 6 | Page Improvements | Comments 24 | Posts 4 | Stars 3 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : The Corrections (5.13+)
By: Marcus garcia When: Nov 25, 2012

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Comments: Thanks, Eric. I have never understood why some people can not just be happy to just climb.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas
By: Marcus garcia When: Nov 25, 2012

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Comments: We are working on replacing the anchors. Yes, the stealing of anchor biners needs to stop.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : The Corrections (5.13+)
By: Marcus garcia When: Nov 24, 2012

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Comments: Chosspector,
Since it is a huge concern of yours, why don't you paint the shiny bolts. Pandora was put up on lead, and the last thing I was thinking was painting the hangers. The draws are mine, I am working on getting them down...just been busy lately. I have put in a lot of time and money to establish new routes at East Animas, have you? If you have a concern, give me a ring and let's chat. If you do not like them, then do not climb them. Marcus


Location: CO : Book Release - Climbing Out...
By: Marcus garcia When: Jul 13, 2012

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Comments: can not wait to read it. I still would like to sit down and talk about my writting.
Marcus


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Byrd's : B-Team Arete (5.12d)
By: Marcus garcia When: May 28, 2012

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Comments: Great addition to the harder lines up at East A. I liked this route.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider
By: Marcus garcia When: May 20, 2012

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Comments: I added a new route just after you come out of the cave. I called it the Matrix. I redpointed it and Chris Barlow followed. We think it is about 13b. Bouldery start to a good rest to more boulder problems to the anchor. You can by pass the crux by using the tree behind you. It is a fun route.
Marcus


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Hidden Gem (5.12d)
By: Marcus garcia When: May 20, 2012

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Comments: I guess it is a little harder than I thought. I still like it.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Pandora (5.12a) : Photo
By: Marcus garcia When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: This is the first pitch of Pandora. I bolted this route, both pitches, ground up on lead. I just recently moved the second bolt to the right to help those that had trouble reaching the second clip. marcus


Location: UT : Moab Area : Canyon Rims Recreation Area : Raven (5.11+)
By: Marcus garcia When: Nov 17, 2011

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Comments: This is a great route,
Ryan Ray and I climbed a corner around from the route and I feel it is a first ascent as we had to do a little cleaning. It climbs 2 great pitches at 5.10 and 5.11+(little spicy at the top before the anchor). We installed an anchor on a ledge. Later Miles Newby and I came back and did anothe ascent linking the route we call The Forrester in to the second crux of the Raven. It turned out to be one of the best routes I have climbed.
marcus garcia


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : Better Eat Yo Wheaties (5.13a)
By: Marcus garcia When: Jul 16, 2011

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Comments: This is still one of my favorite routes. A must for anyone looking for a hard, intense, foot work route.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Labyrinth
By: Marcus garcia When: Jul 7, 2011

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Comments: we have climbed many of these problems for a long time. We just never named them. There is a lot of bouldering in the wichitas. I have climbed many probelms in the area of the robot rock area.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Jailhouse Monkey (on dope) (5.12a)
By: Marcus garcia When: May 8, 2011

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Comments: This is a classic route that climbs great. Nice job, Tim.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Zenyatta Mondatta (A3+)
By: Marcus garcia When: Apr 16, 2011

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Comments: I did this route at the first of May in 2008, I feel it was A4 as well. I had to place a lot of small head in between the blown heads on the second pitch, which I felt I could take a huge fall before I got a single good piece. Over all the route is sustain climbing and the hooking is just great with just enough spice.
Loved this routs


Location: CO : Durango : Golf Wall : Country Club Cave : Bitchez Get Stitchez! (5.13b)
By: Marcus garcia When: Mar 12, 2011

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Comments: Finally got this route this winter. Must have been the ads spankens. Great route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2)
By: Marcus garcia When: Sep 10, 2010

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Comments: I feel that the crux ledge has washed away and made getting to the akward crack harder than it use to be. i am going back out there soon to solo the route again and see what is up.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas
By: Marcus garcia When: Sep 4, 2010

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Comments: I added a new route to the left of the bolted routes on the "I Need A Shower Wall". It is a short, feisty route. I called it "Better Eat Your Wheaties", 5.13.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Marcus garcia When: Sep 4, 2010

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Comments: I do not think this routes needs a bolt. One should work up to this level of trad climbing. It is easliy done due to the fact that you can top rope this route from the Apple Cider anchors. You can use the offset Aliens and some good small stoppers. You just have to know the limits of the gear and quality of the placements which come with time. I have lead this climb many times, and it is a good test of the mind and your trad skills, but if a bolt is placed, you can always choose not to clip it... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Chingadero (5.12)
By: Marcus garcia When: Aug 22, 2010

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Comments: One of the best routes up here. You just need to be a good sandstone climber for up top.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Pandora (5.12a)
By: Marcus garcia When: Aug 22, 2010

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Comments: This route was fun putting up ground up style.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome : Tied to the Whipping Post (5.13a)
By: Marcus garcia When: Jun 22, 2010

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Comments: A great route in a cool setting. Best down in the cool months.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Mescalito (5.9+ A3)
By: Marcus garcia When: Mar 2, 2008

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Comments: We did this clean in 2000 in five days. We took a set of hybrids, cam hook, files tricams, hooks,HB offsets and small pcord to hitch the blown cables. This is a great route.
Marcus


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Crab Eyes : East Face : Ra (5.11d)
By: Marcus garcia When: Jan 28, 2008

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Comments: to go for the full service and full rating start directly under the climb. Climb the thin boulder crack that will take directly under the flaring crack. Ra is one of the best crack route here.
Marcus


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Crab Eyes : West Face : Moby Dick (5.12a/b PG13)
By: Marcus garcia When: Dec 25, 2007

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Comments: There is a direct start to this route that makes it 5.13 I did via 2 variation. One directly under the first bolt climbing a hard boulder problem. Fall potential.
2 climbing the right arching crack less of a fall potential.
Marcus


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Lichen Wall : Underman (5.12a)
By: Marcus garcia When: Dec 24, 2007

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Comments: I did the first ascent of this route around 1998 while I was working Rage. The name gives the route information. I also climbed the left line of this route but never rated it Good job on the information. Jimmy would be proud.
marcus