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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Devil's Punchbowl : South area : VD (Very Direct) Wall : Lower Bolt Route (5.10c/d)
By: Maidy When: May 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments:
Not sure how a favorable route review of a classic got trurned around into a spew-fest. We simply agreed with the current grade consensus. Jeff, since you are the leading expert on this area... I'd suggest updating the route data yourself if you have strong opinions about description and ratings. Leave it blank and it's open to subjective interpretation.
Regardless... It's a great route.
Take a chill pill Jeff. No one is bolting anything at Punchbowl. We're happy to donate bolts... more >>
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak
By: Maidy When: Feb 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: About the big slab opposite Corpse Wall.
Yes- there are anchors at the top of this formation.
This west-facing pocketed face rates 11-ish (?). Top-side access up the bushy south-face gully. Some 5.0 climbing involved to get down to the bolts, and bring your red-ant spray for the scary traverse. You'll need LONG webbing to extend the anchor since the rope drag is gnarly. We anchored and belayed off the boulder over by the RIP Arete to reduce rope drag. The rock quality is poor compared to Corps... more >>
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak : Last Dance (5.10d)
By: Maidy When: Apr 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 10+ move on this climb is the bouldery roof move right at the the first bolt. Crux difficulty may be somewhat height-dependent and the rating is not yet fixed while we get a consensus. Fun, moderate, balancy climbing after the roof. Climb still has a fair amount of lichen, but clean holds and footholds are present and some traffic will improve it.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak : Route 1 - R.I.P Arete (5.5 PG13)
By: Maidy When: Apr 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree - Bring some long slings for mid route protection. If you want to top-rope this climb, you will need a cordalette to extend the anchor, and a long runner to sling the horn for a directional. Directional draws on the bolts for your TR are recommended since it is possible to take a pendulum swing off the edge of this climb.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak : Xeno Dance (5.9)
By: Maidy When: Apr 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually the "old" pitons were new pitons - which we have now been replaced with a single bolt in a better position.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak : Route 2 - The Roof Route (5.10a)
By: Maidy When: Apr 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely the best route on the wall. A must-do. Super fun, technical and thoughtful. Some may find the rating a little stiff, but the bolts are where you need them. The path of least resistance is not a straight line.
The (shared) anchor is set back and requires a cordalette for extension if you want to TR this climb. Pulling the rope after cleaning is a bit of a pain in the rear since the rap-rings are flat on the rock + the gully and bushes are rope-grabbers. I actually recommend ju... more >>
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak
By: Maidy When: Apr 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: All the routes can be TR'd and access to the topside is easy (follow Jim's directions). Some climbs share anchors and may need a directional clipped to a bolt. The (shared) anchor for the RIP Arete and the Roof Route requires extension with a cordalette to TR without major rope drag.
PS: @Benjamin- We are definitely interested in the real route names. If you have the time to send us the info, we'd love to edit the route index for this wall to reflect the names that were originally chosen.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : The Tea Room : English Breakfast Tea (5.10a)
By: Maidy When: Apr 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Missing bolt has been replaced as of April 2012 . Cleaned some loose stuff off as well.
Good to go.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Left Flank : Wet Bush (5.10a)
By: Maidy When: Mar 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is actually a fun climb with a thoughtful entrance moves and a tricky mini-roof which foils a lot of onsights. I agree the bolt-placement is not ideal, but a confident leader can usually work around it.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Left Flank : Morning Glory (5.8)
By: Maidy When: Mar 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe the location descriptions for Morning Glory and Bushwacked are reversed on this site. According to the Santa Monica guide, Bushwacked is the face-climb immediately left of B-line and Morning Glory is the (harder IMO) climb that "starts behind bushes just right the hand crack". Both are rated 5.9 in the guide, but Bushwacked is definitely easier and way more fun.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Left Flank : Bushwhacked (5.8)
By: Maidy When: Mar 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe the location descriptions for Morning Glory and Bushwacked are reversed on this site. According to the Santa Monica guide, Bushwacked is the face-climb immediately left of B-line and Morning Glory is the (harder IMO) climb that "starts behind bushes just right the hand crack". Both are rated 5.9 in the guide, but Bushwacked is definitely easier and way more fun. The (awkward) climb that starts just right of the crack is my least ... more >>
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Left Flank : B-Line (5.9)
By: Maidy When: Mar 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun moderate face climbing. Agree- crux is clipping the anchor and is a single 10a move.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Left Flank : Black Tide (5.9)
By: Maidy When: Mar 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice long, easy moderate climb. Loose stuff is cleaning up with increased traffic. Stick to the face & flake for more fun factor. Crawling into the corner makes clipping the anchor very awkward.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : The Tea Room : Tea Bag (5.10c)
By: Maidy When: Mar 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: My favorite climb in the Tea Room. Balancy, technical and fun.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : The Tea Room : Fen Gliddich (5.10a/b)
By: Maidy When: Mar 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Interesting fun climb. Still some loose stuff that will clean up with time and plenty of good holds to climb around the wigglers (chosstastic!). 10a if you climb the rib only, 5.8 if you stem the right wall at the crux.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak : Route 3 (5.8+)
By: Maidy When: Apr 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Route #3: Fun climb. Recommend climbing directly up the natural line to make this climb less weird and more enjoyable. Small roof (right side 1st bolt) to the arete then straight up the obvious face/crack as nature intended.
Left-Gully Variation?: Clip the left side 1st bolt then head out to 2 random bolts on the large blocks go up the left-side gully. A quasi(no stars)variation with a run-out top-section? Not sure.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : The Grotto : ... (3rd)
By: Maidy When: Oct 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun and interesting. Techy and a bit cryptic through the crux. The wrong sequence will make this harder than 10b.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : The Grotto : Mystic River (5.8)
By: Maidy When: Oct 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually really fun and long for the Grotto. Gritty start but really great rock above.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Conejo Mountain
By: Maidy When: Sep 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are some serious access issues with Mystery Science Theater. It is currently impossible to access the cliffs without trespassing on private property. The residents have made it abundantly clear they are tired of trespassers. In light of the overall poor quality of the routes- I'd recommend avoiding it.
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