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Member Since: Mar 17, 2009
Last Visit: Aug 7, 2014
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Point Rank: # 2,705
Total Points: 187
Last Year: 15
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 96 | Routes 12 | Areas | Photos 7 | Page Improvements | Comments 32 | Posts 7 | Stars 27 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak : Route 4 (5.9)
By: Maidy When: Mar 5, 2014

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Comments: An independent anchor for lead-climbers was added to the face at the top of this route after repeated disputes and confusion over the shared anchor on busier days.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : The Tea Room : Unknown (5.10c)
By: Maidy When: Feb 11, 2014

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Comments: This is a TR variation you can do off the Fen Gliddich anchor. Bring two runners and use a sliding-X configuration on the Fen anchor to equalize it since the directional bolts are far to the right. Rates about 10b/c? and is another route to do if you are seeking shade in the Tea Room on a hot day. Stick to the darker colored and reddish rock. and watch out for loose stuff since this hasn't seen much traffic.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Left Flank : The Sumac Route (5.8)
By: Maidy When: Nov 19, 2013

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Comments: Liking this route more and more as it cleans up. Like Ben said, steep and committing, but not really that difficult. The final bolt directly under the sumac bush is camouflaged and a bit difficult to spot. There's still some loose rock inside the crack to watch out for. The face is pretty clean. Our new favorite warm-up route on the wall.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs
By: Maidy When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: Just a note since I've noticed a drastic increase in destructive behavior at Echo cliffs just in the last year... mostly, I believe out of ignorance. Evidently a lot of people are simply unaware of the park's rules so here they are for the record:

Echo cliffs is a federally protected wilderness under the National Park Service. Access can be closed if we as climbers do not respect some simple rules. Simply put.. leave no trace. Pack out your trash and don't destroy stuff. Leave the plants and... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak
By: Maidy When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: Note: The topo for Corpse Wall in the most recent So Cal guide has a number of errors. Fortunately, since all the grades are moderate you won't really run into trouble. The info and topo here on MP is more accurate.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak : Christmas Chronicle (5.9+)
By: Maidy When: Jul 22, 2013

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Comments: A note on Christmas Chronicle. It was put up on a Christmas day and come to find out... Mike originally rated this climb only 5.8.

Climbing this route over decade after it was put up... it had seen zero traffic.. it was covered in loose dirt and lichen and was an extremely intimidating lead with and R-rated fall factor if you didn't have right gear, so the consensus without the FA input was 10- at the time.

These days, it is clean and way less scary. The second bolt is a retro-bolt placed ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Right Side Gully : Free to Choose (5.8+)
By: Maidy When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: I agree this is an excellent intro for The Fortress. The first pitch is 5.5-ish but was surprisingly fun and the rock is great. I don't agree that it is "contrived" since it is the logical route to access the next level and is not something most people would want to solo. The bolting seems fine considering this is an easy moderate with a potential for an ugly swing if you come off. Kinda want to take a broom up for the little traverse next time.

Pitch 2 has great exposure and fun climbing. ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Right Side Gully : Capitalism & Freedom (5.10a)
By: Maidy When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: Super fun climb. We actually just climbed it as one long pitch. The rock quality actually seemed pretty good. A few though-provoking moves both at the bottom and in the top dihedral.

We actually did a single rappel with a 70 meter from Natural Rate's anchor after topping out. We just lowered the follower(me)the 10 feet to the tree, then the leader did a mini rappel while I threaded the anchor to save time. There was a little spare rope on the ground, so I'm *guessing* it probably would hav... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Right Side Gully : Natural Rate of Unemploymen... (5.10+)
By: Maidy When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: Beautiful route. Long and technical with some really interesting moves.
I second Garth's "A)/B)/C)"'s above but this route is destined to be a classic once the exfoliation settles in to it's final configuration.

This route has obviously lost a few more features since some of the last comments/ratings. I definitely would rate it a solid 10c. It is more difficult and sustained than the two climbs to it's right. There are fresh rock scars but it seemed reasonably clean. A helpful flake at ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Right Side Gully : Permanent Income Hypothesis (5.9)
By: Maidy When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: Stellar climb! Awesome exposure. Best arete in so Cal IMO. The bolt spacing is fine given the length, grade, and the fact that it is an arete. It's just incredibly long so you can get some rope drag if you clip every single one with a short sport draw. Use long runners or skip a couple bolts on easy parts to minimize drag.

We rapped back to the base of this climb in a single rappel with one 70 meter rope (short easy downclimb to the ledge). You do have to watch the rope pull since there ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress
By: Maidy When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: Climbed here for the first time yesterday and have to say I was pleasantly surprised. The Fortress offers some long routes on unique-quality sandstone for So. Cal. and almost felt like climbing at Red Rocks. The two aretes offer awesome exposure are probably the best you'll find outside of the Sierra Nevadas. The face climbs are technical and fun on gecko-friction rock.

There is some loose rock and lichen to navigate in spots (which some folks may not like) but it's not unreasonable IMO. Kud... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak : Route 7 (5.7 PG13)
By: Maidy When: Jun 23, 2013

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Comments: Mixed routes may seem "pointless" to some, but it's the way the FAist put it them so we've left them as originally conceived. People should treat this as an opportunity. These are actually good training routes for beginning trad leaders since the initial moves are bolt protected and the gear-section is easy climbing.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Highway 38 Crags : Frustration Creek : Lower Tier : Super Soul Slab (5.9)
By: Maidy When: Jun 18, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this yesterday for the first time on 6/18. Fun route. Still a little dirty, but it should clean up nicely. Looking forward to a second pitch if/when an issue gets resolved.

3 star climb 0 stars for now because of the PO issue.

Problem: The poison oak has already regrown over the central ledge and you have to climb directly through it. (nasty surprise). The placement of the bolts makes it almost impossible to keep your rope out of the PO, so we actually had to skip bolts on the top ... more >>


Location: CA : High Desert : Devil's Punchbowl : South area : VD (Very Direct) Wall : Lower Bolt Route (5.10c/d)
By: Maidy When: May 8, 2013

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Comments:
  • sigh*

Not sure how a favorable route review of a classic got trurned around into a spew-fest. We simply agreed with the current grade consensus. Jeff, since you are the leading expert on this area... I'd suggest updating the route data yourself if you have strong opinions about description and ratings. Leave it blank and it's open to subjective interpretation.

Regardless... It's a great route.

Take a chill pill Jeff. No one is bolting anything at Punchbowl. We're happy to donate bolts... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak
By: Maidy When: Feb 1, 2013

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Comments: About the big slab opposite Corpse Wall.

Yes- there are anchors at the top of this formation.

This west-facing pocketed face rates 11-ish (?). Top-side access up the bushy south-face gully. Some 5.0 climbing involved to get down to the bolts. You'll need LONG webbing to extend the anchor since the rope drag is gnarly. We anchored and belayed off the boulder over by the RIP Arete to reduce rope drag. The rock quality is poor compared to Corpse Wall.

The north-facing big slab-climbs are a grung... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak : Last Dance (5.10d)
By: Maidy When: Apr 16, 2012

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Comments: The 10+ move on this climb is the bouldery roof move right at the the first bolt. Crux difficulty may be somewhat height-dependent and the rating is not yet fixed while we get a consensus. Fun, moderate, balancy climbing after the roof. Climb still has a fair amount of lichen, but clean holds and footholds are present and some traffic will improve it.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak : Route 1 - R.I.P Arete (5.5 PG13)
By: Maidy When: Apr 15, 2012

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Comments: Agree - Bring some long slings for mid route protection. If you want to top-rope this climb, you will need a cordalette to extend the anchor, and a long runner to sling the horn for a directional. Directional draws on the bolts for your TR are recommended since it is possible to take a pendulum swing off the edge of this climb.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak : Xeno Dance (5.9)
By: Maidy When: Apr 8, 2012

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Comments: Actually the "old" pitons were new pitons - which we have now been replaced with a single bolt in a better position.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak : Route 2 - The Roof Route (5.10a)
By: Maidy When: Apr 7, 2012

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Comments: Definitely the best route on the wall. A must-do. Super fun, technical and thoughtful. Some may find the rating a little stiff, but the bolts are where you need them. The path of least resistance is not a straight line.

The (shared) anchor is set back and requires a cordalette for extension if you want to TR this climb. Pulling the rope after cleaning is a bit of a pain in the rear since the rap-rings are flat on the rock + the gully and bushes are rope-grabbers. I actually recommend ju... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak
By: Maidy When: Apr 7, 2012

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Comments: All the routes can be TR'd and access to the topside is easy (follow Jim's directions). Some climbs share anchors and may need a directional clipped to a bolt. The (shared) anchor for the RIP Arete and the Roof Route requires extension with a cordalette to TR without major rope drag.

PS: @Benjamin- We are definitely interested in the real route names. If you have the time to send us the info, we'd love to edit the route index for this wall to reflect the names that were originally chosen.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : The Tea Room : English Breakfast Tea (5.10a)
By: Maidy When: Apr 2, 2012

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Comments: Missing bolt has been replaced as of April 2012 . Cleaned some loose stuff off as well.
Good to go.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Left Flank : Wet Bush (5.10a)
By: Maidy When: Mar 10, 2012

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Comments: This is actually a fun climb with a thoughtful entrance moves and a tricky mini-roof which foils a lot of onsights. I agree the bolt-placement is not ideal, but a confident leader can usually work around it.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Left Flank : Morning Glory (5.8)
By: Maidy When: Mar 10, 2012

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Comments: I believe the location descriptions for Morning Glory and Bushwacked are reversed on this site. According to the Santa Monica guide, Bushwacked is the face-climb immediately left of B-line and Morning Glory is the (harder IMO) climb that "starts behind bushes just right the hand crack". Both are rated 5.9 in the guide, but Bushwacked is definitely easier and way more fun.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Left Flank : Bushwhacked (5.8)
By: Maidy When: Mar 10, 2012

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Comments: I believe the location descriptions for Morning Glory and Bushwacked are reversed on this site. According to the Santa Monica guide, Bushwacked is the face-climb immediately left of B-line and Morning Glory is the (harder IMO) climb that "starts behind bushes just right the hand crack". Both are rated 5.9 in the guide, but Bushwacked is definitely easier and way more fun. The (awkward) climb that starts just right of the crack is my least ... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Left Flank : B-Line (5.9)
By: Maidy When: Mar 9, 2012

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Comments: Fun moderate face climbing. Agree- crux is clipping the anchor and is a single 10a move.


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