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Member Since: Feb 10, 2012
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Point Rank: # 2,061
Total Points: 295
Last Year: 102
Last 30 Days: 10
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has madisonchoss been climbing?










Contributions


All 182 | Routes 19 | Areas | Photos 6 | Page Improvements | Comments 75 | Posts | Stars 62 | Ratings 20
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : South Bluff Bouldering : Ghost Talus Field : There is no White Knight (V7)
By: madisonchoss When: 11 hours ago

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Comments: Proper sit start with a juggy right hand pinch under the roof and a left hand crimp is "There are Two" v8.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : South Bluff Bouldering : Ghost Talus Field
By: madisonchoss When: 12 hours ago

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Comments: I spent a really enjoyable day in this field. There aren't a ton of problems but those that are here are quite good.




Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : South Bluff Bouldering : Ghost Talus Field : Full Sail (V10)
By: madisonchoss When: 1 day ago

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Comments: This is now updated. "Full Sit" is now called "Full Sail;" the start that was "Full Sail" no longer exists.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Axiom of Arete Aesthetics (V7)
By: madisonchoss When: 4 days ago

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Comments: No, I can't. That's why I didn't list it.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Axiom of Arete Aesthetics (V7)
By: madisonchoss When: 4 days ago

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Comments: And Sex and Chocolate is just the first half of Sex and Chocolate Direct / Cherry on Top. None of them are great problems (arguably, none of them are problems). I think these should be noted for their historical value and not that much else.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : South Bluff Bouldering : Ghost Talus Field : Full Sail (V10)
By: madisonchoss When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: There are at most two problems here - Sail Away and Full Sit. Full Sail however is a better name than Full Sit.

I would recommend adding the the lowest start Ian describes to the description of this problem and forgetting about the midway start currently described here.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff South : ... : Public Enemy Direct AKA Pub... (V8)
By: madisonchoss When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: aka Public Enemy with different beta...


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff Fire Road
By: madisonchoss When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: Yes. Steve is right. Not sure why I didn't think of that.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff Fire Road
By: madisonchoss When: Apr 11, 2015

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Comments: Definitely adds a good bit of a hike. Steve is right, the fastest way to approach this area now seems to be parking at the cabins, hiking to the dumpster boulder, then heading straight up the hill toward the real power. From there, the 45 boulder is slightly uphill and to the south.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Greatest Slab (V2)
By: madisonchoss When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: yeah these are fun if you're in the area.

Regarding the name, try again Remo! - "Greatest Slab" is the big slab on the Greatest Show boulder to the left.


Location: WI : Central Sandstone : Rattlesnake Mound : Photo
By: madisonchoss When: Mar 15, 2015

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Comments: I climbed this from a sit last year. Felt a bit harder than chaos the way I fid it. Called it "the perch"


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Group Camp B : Backbone Ridge : West Side- Backbone Ridge : Sandstone Violence (V8)
By: madisonchoss When: Jan 23, 2015

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Comments: Here are a couple videos featuring this problem:






Location: WI : Central Sandstone : Rattlesnake Mound : Main Cliff East : Hocus Pocus (V9)
By: madisonchoss When: Jan 23, 2015

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Comments: Here are a couple videos showing different methods:






Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: madisonchoss When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Looks like my illustration is now out of date and climbing on top of this boulder from the low rail is v2 / 3:

mountainproject.com/v/funky-tu...


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: madisonchoss When: Jan 13, 2015

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Comments: Interesting point about community not FA defined starts. Can't say I agree, but it's a stance advocated a couple times in the lengthy discussion on this tangentially related blog post:

b3bouldering.com/2011/02/22/mi...


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: madisonchoss When: Jan 12, 2015

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Comments: Eventually they should be merged, I don't think there's any doubt about that. Doesn't matter to me if that happens and then the start is further defined or if you wait to do so until this is resolved (if it ever can be!).

My point from the beginning has been that the same standard you use for defining "matched" here should be able to be equally well applied to any other matched starts, regardless of whether it changes the difficulty by 2, 1, .01, .0000000001 v grades. If that can't be done th... more >>


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: madisonchoss When: Jan 11, 2015

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Comments: Re start position 2: how far from the base is "low" on the cannons rail before it becomes "high" on the cannons rail?

(For the record, I definitely think you did another move that was probably hard. And may even be the most natural! It's been 3 years so I'm playing Devils advocate with an very vague memory and a couple phone pictures).

As for Ian's point, lots of things happen all the time that shouldn't (in climbing and in life). They also seem to happen mostly in climbing areas where no o... more >>


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: madisonchoss When: Jan 9, 2015

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Comments: I agree with Nezbit Ė discussions like this are important to have. The way people approach establishing new problems shapes the future experience of climbers in that area far more than some v17 that none of us will touch. If you donít like the discussions or find them dramatic, feel free to skip participating and climb whatever you want and not talk about it on the internet.

Not to speak too much for him, but I think Nezbit and I also agree that Basilisk and Cannons Sit are variations of eac... more >>


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: madisonchoss When: Jan 8, 2015

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Comments: Everyone agrees for a sit start the butt is the last thing to leave one pad (a quality both "Basilisk" and "Cannons Sit" share). Past that, there seems to be confusion:

Where do your hands go? How far until you just climbed "Basilisk?"

If: "as far as you can reach while still seated" -> it's the same as "Basilisk."

If: "____ inches" -> why that many and not more? Or less?

If: "both hands go on bottom lip" -> You're actually on a different line than c... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff Central : ... : Sticky Icky (V9)
By: madisonchoss When: Dec 18, 2014

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Comments: legitimate question: didn't everyone who "climbed" this boulder top it out?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Born in Blood (V12)
By: madisonchoss When: Nov 26, 2014

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Comments: No, that's not how grades work (at least not in their current form). We don't just create a bell curve for each area. If we were to do that, why stop at v12? Why not use v15? Or v20?

In the real world, there are standards and then we grade according to how difficult things are - when climbed in good conditions, with good skin, after rest days, and with good beta - compared to that standard. The standard v10 at Devil's Lake for many years has been Keymaker.

In other forums my grading has... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Born in Blood (V12)
By: madisonchoss When: Nov 26, 2014

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Comments: My 2c...

I misunderstood where Dagger started. I removed it from my scorecard and added a note to my video. For the record, this is because my left hand was slightly too far up the lower arete, not because my hands were flipped. The hands flipped on the start holds is an unsustainable argument along a slippery slope. Starting on the holds the first ascentionist used is not slippery. Nor is not dabbing, etc.

I did all this because I believe that if you're going to represent that you've done... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : Death of a Traveling Salesm... (V5 X)
By: madisonchoss When: Nov 25, 2014

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Comments: There's an obvious start that would add several hard moves into this problem. Could be the first v14 at the lake.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff South : ... : Butter Burger (V10)
By: madisonchoss When: Nov 25, 2014

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Comments: I couldn't figure out where this started.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff South : ... : Pi's Problem (V9)
By: madisonchoss When: Nov 24, 2014

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Comments: Pie's Problem*


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