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Member Since: Feb 10, 2012
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,153
Total Points: 274
Last Year: 106
Last 30 Days: 8
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has madisonchoss been climbing?










Contributions


All 162 | Routes 18 | Areas | Photos 6 | Page Improvements | Comments 64 | Posts | Stars 55 | Ratings 19
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Group Camp B : Backbone Ridge : West Side- Backbone Ridge : Sandstone Violence (V8)
By: madisonchoss When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Here are a couple videos featuring this problem:






Location: WI : Central Sandstone : Rattlesnake Mound : Main Cliff East : Hocus Pocus (V9)
By: madisonchoss When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Here are a couple videos showing different methods:






Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: madisonchoss When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Looks like my illustration is now out of date and climbing on top of this boulder from the low rail is v2 / 3:

mountainproject.com/v/funky-tu...


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: madisonchoss When: Jan 13, 2015

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Comments: Interesting point about community not FA defined starts. Can't say I agree, but it's a stance advocated a couple times in the lengthy discussion on this tangentially related blog post:

b3bouldering.com/2011/02/22/mi...


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: madisonchoss When: Jan 12, 2015

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Comments: Eventually they should be merged, I don't think there's any doubt about that. Doesn't matter to me if that happens and then the start is further defined or if you wait to do so until this is resolved (if it ever can be!).

My point from the beginning has been that the same standard you use for defining "matched" here should be able to be equally well applied to any other matched starts, regardless of whether it changes the difficulty by 2, 1, .01, .0000000001 v grades. If that can't be done th... more >>


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: madisonchoss When: Jan 11, 2015

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Comments: Re start position 2: how far from the base is "low" on the cannons rail before it becomes "high" on the cannons rail?

(For the record, I definitely think you did another move that was probably hard. And may even be the most natural! It's been 3 years so I'm playing Devils advocate with an very vague memory and a couple phone pictures).

As for Ian's point, lots of things happen all the time that shouldn't (in climbing and in life). They also seem to happen mostly in climbing areas where no o... more >>


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: madisonchoss When: Jan 9, 2015

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Comments: I agree with Nezbit Ė discussions like this are important to have. The way people approach establishing new problems shapes the future experience of climbers in that area far more than some v17 that none of us will touch. If you donít like the discussions or find them dramatic, feel free to skip participating and climb whatever you want and not talk about it on the internet.

Not to speak too much for him, but I think Nezbit and I also agree that Basilisk and Cannons Sit are variations of eac... more >>


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: madisonchoss When: Jan 8, 2015

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Comments: Everyone agrees for a sit start the butt is the last thing to leave one pad (a quality both "Basilisk" and "Cannons Sit" share). Past that, there seems to be confusion:

Where do your hands go? How far until you just climbed "Basilisk?"

If: "as far as you can reach while still seated" -> it's the same as "Basilisk."

If: "____ inches" -> why that many and not more? Or less?

If: "both hands go on bottom lip" -> You're actually on a different line than c... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff Central : ... : Sticky Icky (V9)
By: madisonchoss When: Dec 18, 2014

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Comments: legitimate question: didn't everyone who "climbed" this boulder top it out?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Born in Blood (V12)
By: madisonchoss When: Nov 26, 2014

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Comments: No, that's not how grades work (at least not in their current form). We don't just create a bell curve for each area. If we were to do that, why stop at v12? Why not use v15? Or v20?

In the real world, there are standards and then we grade according to how difficult things are - when climbed in good conditions, with good skin, after rest days, and with good beta - compared to that standard. The standard v10 at Devil's Lake for many years has been Keymaker.

In other forums my grading has... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Born in Blood (V12)
By: madisonchoss When: Nov 26, 2014

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Comments: My 2c...

I misunderstood where Dagger started. I removed it from my scorecard and added a note to my video. For the record, this is because my left hand was slightly too far up the lower arete, not because my hands were flipped. The hands flipped on the start holds is an unsustainable argument along a slippery slope. Starting on the holds the first ascentionist used is not slippery. Nor is not dabbing, etc.

I did all this because I believe that if you're going to represent that you've done... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : Death of a Traveling Salesm... (V5 X)
By: madisonchoss When: Nov 25, 2014

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Comments: There's an obvious start that would add several hard moves into this problem. Could be the first v14 at the lake.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff South : ... : Butter Burger (V10)
By: madisonchoss When: Nov 25, 2014

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Comments: I couldn't figure out where this started.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff South : ... : Pi's Problem (V9)
By: madisonchoss When: Nov 24, 2014

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Comments: Pie's Problem*


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Sandstone Area : Rebel Pride (V10-)
By: madisonchoss When: Nov 24, 2014

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Comments: There's an obvious start that would add several hard moves into this if anyone is interested in a project.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Burma Road Bouldering : Burmese Python (V11)
By: madisonchoss When: Nov 21, 2014

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Comments: There's an obvious start that would add several hard moves into this if anyone is interested in a project.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : Call of the Wild (V8)
By: madisonchoss When: Nov 19, 2014

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Comments: Howling in outrage:
You used that start already!
The call of the wild.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff South : ... : Keymaker (V10+)
By: madisonchoss When: Nov 16, 2014

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Comments: Standard in every sense. I approve.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Burma Road Bouldering : Purple Gold (V9-)
By: madisonchoss When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: being a day of the year, what's about to fall off your 8a card also affects how hard the problem feels.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Photo
By: madisonchoss When: Nov 11, 2014

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Comments: It's okay to dab. This is wisconsin.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : The Ivory Face (V11)
By: madisonchoss When: Nov 4, 2014

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Comments: This is v10.5. Nic, King of wisconsin, has decreed it to be so.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff South : ... : The Fukness (V11-)
By: madisonchoss When: Nov 4, 2014

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Comments: Sick that the cross worked for Ya. I did it that way but found myself stretched and the release feeling harder than the other ways. I figured the taller guys might crush that beta.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff South : ... : The Fukness (V11-)
By: madisonchoss When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: Time will tell. I did this in a couple tries in full sun / t-shirt weather. There are very few (if any) v9s at the lake I think I could do in comparable conditions. Felt about as hard as Mean Gurlz with my sequence. That's the background on how I formed my opinion, in case anyone was wondering.

All that being said, this thing climbs a lot better than it looks. Short approach and fun moves. People should get on it.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff South : ... : The False (V11 PG13)
By: madisonchoss When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: I did a bunch of landing work. Still not perfect but a lot better than it was.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff South : ... : Big Foot Arete (V8-)
By: madisonchoss When: Oct 27, 2014

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Comments: This is a great problem - terrific rock, obvious start, flat landing... Easy approach and fun moves don't hurt, either.


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