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Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lich...


Member Since: Nov 9, 2006
Last Visit: 39 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 68
Total Points: 5,193
Last Year: 575
Last 30 Days: 13
69 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 3277 | Routes 131 | Areas 62 | Photos 328 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 1311 | Posts 879 | Stars 508 | Ratings 57
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : New Square Ledge
By: M Sprague When: 4 hours ago

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Comments: Bradley, is this the same Square Ledge listed in Handren's guide where Ray and others put up a bunch of routes before the FS jumped on them, or is this another wall further south?

As far as bicycles go, legally you can only take them in as far as the boundary to the Wilderness area I believe.


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Working Man (5.7 PG13) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: 2 days ago

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Comments: What happened, Lee? It looks like you shrunk.


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Working Man (5.7 PG13)
By: M Sprague When: 4 days ago

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Comments: I agree, Lee. No need to grid bolt the face if it can easily be TRed.


Location: NH : Greens Cliff : The Northeastern Crags : Squeeze Box (5.8) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Nov 13, 2014

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Comments: Easier beta, I think, is if you go in deep (it widens some in the back) and you face left.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Nov 8, 2014

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Comments: Lots of noobish opinions here or ones influenced by outdated considerations. Yes, rapping will save some wear, but these kinds of anchors are designed to be lowered off, and the installers intend you to do so. It is simpler, faster, and, assuming you don't have a moron for a belayer, safer. The way to deal with your concerns about wearing them out is to contribute to anchor replacement, either replacing them yourself if you have the knowledge or contribute some dollars to those who do. Your loca... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Vantage Point (5.11)
By: M Sprague When: Oct 25, 2014

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Comments: Vantage or Lee's 12? I think bolting Vantage at this point, the face would be pretty grid bolted. I could see doing the arete personally before that because it is so beautiful, but it is slightly contrived not pulling into the chimney.


Location: NH : Owl's Cliff (off Kancamagu... : The Right Cliff : The 5.10 Wall : The Gap Abides (5.12d)
By: M Sprague When: Oct 23, 2014

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Comments: Lots of ways people can have fun on it. Me, I think I would try it on TR and see if I can even free all the moves, lol. Hopefully this worthy line (either way) will get some more ascents and we will get a consensus. I remember thinking it was quite a bit harder, but I think I was only on it once or twice. You know how it is, sometimes when working a route one can get tunnel vision and miss something that makes all the difference, especially on such a technical route. Maybe you were pretty fat an... more >>


Location: NH : Owl's Cliff (off Kancamagu... : The Right Cliff : The 5.10 Wall : The Gap Abides (5.12d)
By: M Sprague When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: Will, if you or Ray ever feel up to describing the way you hike in to rap in from the top, I can put it in the The Right Cliff directions. I have never gone in that way. The way we would come up from the Oracle boulders, since we camped near there, has probably gotten overgrown from lack of use. (last I checked, the way over to the left cliff was easy to follow)


Location: NH : Owl's Cliff (off Kancamagu... : The Right Cliff : The 5.10 Wall : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: #5 is now 'The Gap Abides'. Getting time for an updated topo.


Location: NH : Greens Cliff : The Main Wall : The Muffin Man (5.12c)
By: M Sprague When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: Glad someone finished this up for me. Nice job. Seeing the pictures is getting me psyched to come back after a season of bouldering to get on it again. I thought the bulge was going to be a bit harder than that. You guys are strong, and sandbaggers ;) Don't want to think about the alternative, lol


Location: NH : Greens Cliff : The Main Wall : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: #9 is now 'Muffin Man' 12c, FA - Will Carey. I suspect that may be a little stiff grading.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering
By: M Sprague When: Oct 21, 2014

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Comments: I'm not a fan of the Umbrella Traverse either- polished feet from people getting on it with muddy shoes and tweaky handholds, a perfect combination for tweaking out on a cold rainy day. Better off hitting Evolution in Concord or just exploring. Generally, the higher up the hill you are, the more chance the rock has been able to dry out. Maybe have a look at some of the stuff below Monsters of the Id crag. The Venus Caves bouldering is steep. It needs cleaning though. There is really little bould... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Schist Show Boulders (below... : Unsorted problems : Pumpkin Riot (V1)
By: M Sprague When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: New name!


Location: NH : Greens Cliff : The Northeastern Crags : Pick a Card (5.9+)
By: M Sprague When: Oct 16, 2014

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Comments: 'Interesting' route. Currently could use a bit more cleaning, but it is a cool line. Tape will make the hand jams through the upper bulge more friendly.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Northwest Passage : The Lord's Prayer (5.10c)
By: M Sprague When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: Nice that one got cleaned up and done. It always looked like it would have some good climbing.


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Panama Hat (aka Mister Mean... (5.9)
By: M Sprague When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: That was always the original name, Lee. I was making fun of myself and it has a double meaning.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Schist Show Boulders (below... : Unsorted problems : ... : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: ... but it shows the starting hold. Don't let it put you off from the route. It is steep and fun. I'll try to get a better picture.

It could use a little more re-brushing to pretty it up, but I recently re-climbed it, so the holds are clean.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Schist Show Boulders (below... : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: Thanks. Corrected. I'm not actually sure why I put the decimal before the number. ...Yup, quite a few good lines to do here. Some need a posse with a big pile of pads though.


Location: NH : Rumney : Yellow Knife Buttress : Cow Patty (5.10a)
By: M Sprague When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: Sure you weren't at the 5.8 crag, Nick? ;)


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Schist Show Boulders (below... : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: First draft - subject to change - No guarantee of accuracy or suitability for use. Use at your own risk. You may become disoriented, lost, fall in a hole, become inspired to engage in unsafe activities..

Have any suggestions or information to improve it, let me know. I am working on my rudimentary Inkscape skills.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Schist Show Boulders (below... : The Hi Boulder
By: M Sprague When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: Tim, this is the correct boulder for Climb High and McCandles? I just gave the boulder a quick name for organizational purposes (plus it is the intro boulder at the start of the trail). If anybody has anything better in mind, let me know.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Schist Show Boulders (below... : The Hi Boulder : Climbing High? (V0)
By: M Sprague When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: Tim, this is about in the middle of the face, correct?


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Anaconda-Da-Vida (5.12c/d)
By: M Sprague When: Oct 14, 2014

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Comments: It may have been patched up or removed since I was last on it. It originally had very visible, aqua green colored epoxy smeared around it. (early technology I guess) I never really understood it, as it wasn't a really necessary hold anyway, though the hold did provide a shake for some.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Schist Show Boulders (below...
By: M Sprague When: Oct 11, 2014

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Comments: Before we do more work recording this area and making maps etc., are you guys definitely set on the name for this? I get the humor of it, but honestly, the name is kind of meh to me for such a great bunch of boulders. Basically calling them a shit show seems kind of negative. Even the name The Shipyard, taken from the boulder next to the trail, seems more inviting. It is kind of like the area where everybody heads out from to go to all the crags and bouldering. Any ideas or does everybody else s... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Schist Show Boulders (below... : The Mallery Boulder : Who Killed the Butler (V1-)
By: M Sprague When: Oct 11, 2014

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Comments: Does anybody happen to remember the name of John Mallery's formerly bolted lines on this boulder? I'm looking for a theme for naming the boulder.


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