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Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lich...


Member Since: Nov 9, 2006
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 67
Total Points: 5,499
Last Year: 731
Last 30 Days: 50
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 3578 | Routes 133 | Areas 65 | Photos 361 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1383 | Posts 1058 | Stars 516 | Ratings 60
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Photo
By: M Sprague When: 2 days ago

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Comments: They look infected to me. It is good to clean up as best as possible end of day when out for a while to help avoid that.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Prudential : El Funko (5.10c)
By: M Sprague When: 2 days ago

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Comments: This one is on the list for bolt replacement and a scrub.


Location: Rhode Island
By: M Sprague When: 3 days ago

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Comments: It will be great to have that info, Joe, now that it is legal.

Old picture of somebody on Magic Carpet. Disguised...
Old picture of somebody on Magic Carpet. Disguised to protect the guilty.



Location: NH : Greens Cliff : The Northeastern Crags : Thin Slice (5.10+)
By: M Sprague When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Great! What did you guys end up using for an anchor?


Location: NH : Simond's Rock
By: M Sprague When: Jun 17, 2015

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Comments: Corrected.
From nh.gov/nhdhr/programs/state_re...
"Simonds Rock, Merrimack
Simonds Rock is an unusual resource on the New Hampshire State Register. Credited by the United States Geological Survey (USGS) as being the second largest glacial boulder reported in New Hampshire, Simonds Rock measures about 50 feet long, more than 30 feet high and more than 25 feet long. Only the Madison Boulder is larger. Given the rock’s composition of Massabesic Gneiss, the USGS estimate... more >>


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Welch and Dickie Area : Dickey Ledge : South America Wall : ... : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Jun 17, 2015

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Comments: Looks pretty dramatic here, Lee.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Northwest Territories : Plate Tectonics (5.12c/d)
By: M Sprague When: Jun 11, 2015

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Comments: Great work, Dave!


Location: Rhode Island : Wickaboxet Management Area : Broken Moon Boulder : Broken Moon (V6) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Jun 10, 2015

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Comments: I don't know why it wouldn't be legal and have never heard otherwise. Do be aware that you will be quite visible, and depending on the day, you may have yahoos screwing around with your anchor, so keep an eye on it.


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Fat and Happy area : Blair Witch (V5+)
By: M Sprague When: Jun 9, 2015

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Comments: This is on the ledge you look at a few hundred feet across from the Trailside Ledge, correct?


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Fat and Happy area
By: M Sprague When: Jun 9, 2015

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Comments: I did see some chalk on the way in and was wondering what they were. There is definitely more worthy looking stuff between the trail and the Fat and Happy area.

Organizationally, if we include this whole area under the "Fat and Happy Area" moniker, since it is scattered, we will need to have really good individual directions for each problem. This would work ok until we start getting more routes. Or, if you have a name for this general region, we could go right ahead and make an area by that n... more >>


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Fat and Happy area : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Jun 8, 2015

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Comments: I think so, using the right arete and the sidepull in the lower middle of the face. It's much too wide to reach both sides. There are holds on the right arete and a small sloper just above the eyebrow. The key will be getting established at the start. I haven't been able to try it with the rocks there.


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Fat and Happy area
By: M Sprague When: Jun 8, 2015

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Comments: Ha, just noticed an extra link was making half the directions not show. It should be corrected now. The area is directly on the other side of the main trail from the Egg. Head west instead of east off trail.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Northwest Territories : Paper Wafer (5.9) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Jun 2, 2015

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Comments: There is a new SS glue-in anchor with rings placed a little lower now.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Northwest Territories : Like Old Times (5.8)
By: M Sprague When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: Ed recently did a bunch more cleaning in the chimney, so stuff shouldn't be raining down unless the leader is going unnecessarily deep. It was looking well buffed up as of last weekend.


Location: NH : Sandwich Notch
By: M Sprague When: May 27, 2015

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Comments: The map coordinates seemed to be way off, so I moved it to the general area I think the crags are. Could somebody more familiar check on the accuracy please? Also, if you figure out the Google coordinates for the sub areas, Administrators can set up the maps for those. Also, as always, make use of those "Improve this page" buttons if you can add information or clarify. Thanks. - Mark


Location: NH : Rumney : The Northwest Territories : Hocus Focus (5.12c)
By: M Sprague When: May 27, 2015

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Comments: The route has been scrubbed up and the bolts and anchors all replaced with SS glue-ins. It is ripping, hard, fingery and technical, a great route if you like that style. The old anchor above still needs to be removed and the topout could use a little more brushing up, but it should be fine to climb already (It'll probably get done next weekend)

Make sure you mantle the top out and not just tag the anchors for the tick! I am thinking it may be a little stiff for 12c.


Location: NH : Rumney : Bonsai : Social Outcast (5.12a)
By: M Sprague When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: "Careful cleaning this route. When my partner unclipped the bottom draw, I swung right into a tree. Use a ground anchor or clean it while climbing it on TR."

Yes, it always amazes me how many at Bonsai seemingly have no understanding of basic physics. Cleaning while seconding is the best way by far to do it.


Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Clip a Dee Doo Dah (5.3)
By: M Sprague When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: I think people badly underestimate the consequences of slipping or tripping on this while soloing. - Yes, I have soloed it and climbed it with no hands except to clip the rope


Location: NH
By: M Sprague When: May 22, 2015

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Comments: It is kind of crazy that there is no entry for even the general Kinsmman Notch area yet except a little in the ice section. Anyone with some knowledge and a bit of writing skill to help us out? It doesn't seem like John is ever going to get a new edition of 'Secrets of the Notch' out;) (Come on, John!)


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff Right
By: M Sprague When: May 22, 2015

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Comments: Thanks Matt. I wish more would add well done entries like that, and also use the "improve this page" button. Some other crags, like Woodchuck off the Kanc, could really use some help.


Location: NH : Newbury Cut
By: M Sprague When: May 21, 2015

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Comments: OK, thanks. It doesn't sound like information should be removed, just stressed that it is a small local area with very limited parking.


Location: NH : Newbury Cut
By: M Sprague When: May 20, 2015

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Comments: What is the reason, Eli? Is the track still active, private property and the owner doesn't want it published?


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : The "Lost" Boulder : Notochord (V7)
By: M Sprague When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: It must have felt hard in the heat Sunday. Key for me was the correct smear spot for my left toe, not going too high on the arete with my left hand and manteling high off the starting sloper to get up high before popping for the top


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff Right
By: M Sprague When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: The 5.7 is Dave Quinn's 'Crowd Pleaser'. The 5.8 is Chris Smith's 'Tipping Point'. Post 'em up. I haven't climbed them yet.


Location: Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : Sit Down area / Druid's Cir... : Split Rock
By: M Sprague When: May 17, 2015

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Comments: Hmm, "soon" is relative I guess. Who would like to practice their writing with a good description and directions? Let me know and I will turn it over to you.


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