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Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lich...


Member Since: Nov 9, 2006
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 68
Total Points: 5,211
Last Year: 585
Last 30 Days: 26
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has M Sprague been climbing?










Contributions


All 3311 | Routes 131 | Areas 62 | Photos 330 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 1318 | Posts 904 | Stars 508 | Ratings 57
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Boulders Below The Main... : The Mallery Boulder : Who Killed the Butler (V1-)
By: M Sprague When: 5 days ago

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Comments: I haven't looked closely in a while, but I seem to remember seeing at least one bolt hole. I'll check next time I go by it.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Boulders Below The Main... : Photo
By: M Sprague When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Nice Glenn. Do you remember any details; name, FA? If you know anything about other older routes it would be fun to get them recorded.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Lower Left Wall / Ventilato... : Ventilator (5.10b)
By: M Sprague When: 6 days ago

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Comments: I bet that ring bolt badly needs replacement. From experience of some at Rumney, they look OK on the outside, but when you take them out to replace them they are horrifying.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Boulders Below The Main... : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Dec 15, 2014

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Comments: Thanks. I'll have another look. It was drizzling when I was there so I didn't get on top.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Boulders Below The Main... : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Dec 13, 2014

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Comments: Ring a bell? An old Eric Mushial highball?


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Boulders Below The Main... : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Dec 13, 2014

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Comments: Does anybody know anything about this crack. It is on a 20' tall boulder up the hill and right from the Time Boulder and not too far from the trail to Orange Crush, though you don't really notice it from the trail. You see it best from below. Somehow I don't remember ever noticing this boulder until this Fall. The crack is highball and comes out of a pit. It looks like it was cleaned at least partially at some point.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Boulders Below The Main... : The Hi Boulder
By: M Sprague When: Dec 12, 2014

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Comments: This really needs a better name unless somebody is going to put up some routes called "Hey Fellas" and "Hi There"


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Boulders Below The Main... : The Mallery Boulder
By: M Sprague When: Dec 12, 2014

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Comments: Does anybody remember the names of John's bolted lines here or some history? I asked Den Dana (the early Rumney guidebook author) and he keyed me into the fact that there were two bolted lines, not just one, but he didn't remember any names.


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Wendell's Route (5.6)
By: M Sprague When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: It heads up basically towards the tree on the left.


Location: Rhode Island : Beach Pond : Normandy : Normandy Project (V7)
By: M Sprague When: Dec 3, 2014

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Comments: Got a name you would like to call it, Bryan? Also, date and anyone else to list on the FA?


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : The Penny Hill Boulders
By: M Sprague When: Dec 2, 2014

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Comments: Yes, it is good to go. I played on the project (sit start at the underclings at the arete rt of the cave as on Porcelain, but move right then up the front face) the other day..managed a few moves, lol. The route is going to be crazy hard, but I think it will go (and be really good quality). It might need Ashima though. Bring your power and crimping ability.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : The Flying Beast (5.12d) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: Those bolts look gnarly too, unless the heads are painted brown. Have they been replace with stainless?


Location: NH : Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Percolator (5.7)
By: M Sprague When: Nov 23, 2014

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Comments: Having this in mind might make the route more fun



Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Square Ledge (Mt Passaconaw...
By: M Sprague When: Nov 21, 2014

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Comments: Looks like it is the same. The place looks amazing. I have been meaning to take a hike in and have a look. It's too bad a bunch of the routes protection had to be removed since it was in wilderness where you can't use a power drill. I wonder if they can be put back in by hand.

Edit - From what I can see so far, fixed protection is allowed, just not power drills fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUM... see pg 22. I know there was a bolt issue at Big Rck Cave (also in th... more >>


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Square Ledge (Mt Passaconaw...
By: M Sprague When: Nov 21, 2014

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Comments: Bradley, is this the same Square Ledge listed in Handren's guide northconwayrockclimbs.com/nort... (from northconwayrockclimbs.com/ ) where Ray and others put up a bunch of routes before the FS jumped on them, or is this another wall further south?

As far as bicycles go, legally you can only take them in as far as the boundary to the Wilderness area I believe.


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Working Man (5.7 PG13) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Nov 19, 2014

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Comments: What happened, Lee? It looks like you shrunk.


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Working Man (5.7 PG13)
By: M Sprague When: Nov 17, 2014

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Comments: I agree, Lee. No need to grid bolt the face if it can easily be TRed.


Location: NH : Greens Cliff : The Northeastern Crags : Squeeze Box (5.8) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Nov 13, 2014

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Comments: Easier beta, I think, is if you go in deep (it widens some in the back) and you face left.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Nov 8, 2014

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Comments: Lots of noobish opinions here or ones influenced by outdated considerations. Yes, rapping will save some wear, but these kinds of anchors are designed to be lowered off, and the installers intend you to do so. It is simpler, faster, and, assuming you don't have a moron for a belayer, safer. The way to deal with your concerns about wearing them out is to contribute to anchor replacement, either replacing them yourself if you have the knowledge or contribute some dollars to those who do. Your loca... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Vantage Point (5.11)
By: M Sprague When: Oct 25, 2014

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Comments: Vantage or Lee's 12? I think bolting Vantage at this point, the face would be pretty grid bolted. I could see doing the arete personally before that because it is so beautiful, but it is slightly contrived not pulling into the chimney.


Location: NH : Owl's Cliff (off Kancamagu... : The Right Cliff : The 5.10 Wall : The Gap Abides (5.12d)
By: M Sprague When: Oct 23, 2014

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Comments: Lots of ways people can have fun on it. Me, I think I would try it on TR and see if I can even free all the moves, lol. Hopefully this worthy line (either way) will get some more ascents and we will get a consensus. I remember thinking it was quite a bit harder, but I think I was only on it once or twice. You know how it is, sometimes when working a route one can get tunnel vision and miss something that makes all the difference, especially on such a technical route. Maybe you were pretty fat an... more >>


Location: NH : Owl's Cliff (off Kancamagu... : The Right Cliff : The 5.10 Wall : The Gap Abides (5.12d)
By: M Sprague When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: Will, if you or Ray ever feel up to describing the way you hike in to rap in from the top, I can put it in the The Right Cliff directions. I have never gone in that way. The way we would come up from the Oracle boulders, since we camped near there, has probably gotten overgrown from lack of use. (last I checked, the way over to the left cliff was easy to follow)


Location: NH : Owl's Cliff (off Kancamagu... : The Right Cliff : The 5.10 Wall : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: #5 is now 'The Gap Abides'. Getting time for an updated topo.


Location: NH : Greens Cliff : The Main Wall : The Muffin Man (5.12c)
By: M Sprague When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: Glad someone finished this up for me. Nice job. Seeing the pictures is getting me psyched to come back after a season of bouldering to get on it again. I thought the bulge was going to be a bit harder than that. You guys are strong, and sandbaggers ;) Don't want to think about the alternative, lol


Location: NH : Greens Cliff : The Main Wall : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: #9 is now 'Muffin Man' 12c, FA - Will Carey. I suspect that may be a little stiff grading.


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