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The Hammer


Member Since: Nov 9, 2006
Last Visit: 24 mins ago
Contact M Sprague


Point Rank: # 68
Total Points: 5,275
Last Year: 547
Last 30 Days: 62
73 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has M Sprague been climbing?










Contributions


All 3419 | Routes 131 | Areas 62 | Photos 340 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1329 | Posts 988 | Stars 509 | Ratings 58
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Patrick's Point State Park : Pacific Ocean Cliff : 5.10b Toprope (5.10b) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Geoff, The whole anchor needs to be ripped out, not just the quicklinks replaced. From the picture, even the rock looks bad, full of cracks. Just replacing the links would encourage people into believing that the rest of the anchor is good.


Location: NH : Rumney
By: M Sprague When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Here is a link to a scanned copy of Den Danna's original 1992 Rumney guide book 'Schist Another Hangout - Rumney Rock Notes' , thanks to Benjamin Buck . It was the first published exclusive Rumney guide (after Ted Hammond's Rumney section in Webster's 'Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire' (2nd edition, 1987)
docs.google.com/file/d/0B9zeIC...


Location: NH : Rumney : The Bakery : Photo
By: M Sprague When: 4 days ago

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Comments: It is probably best to avoid this crag as it is practically on top of somebody's house, unless you know the owner. I don't think the routes are worth intruding on their privacy personally.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Boulders Below The Main... : Photo
By: M Sprague When: 4 days ago

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Comments: I was hoping Ward would, now that he bouldered the right hand one. He might be holding out, still contemplating bouldering the harder one, but I think we all concluded it wouldn't be the wisest idea. It is easy to throw a TR on it and the landing is pretty paraplegia inducing. They are both great routes.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Boulders Below The Main... : Photo
By: M Sprague When: 4 days ago

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Comments: You are welcome to get on it, Matt. There are always some I would like to get first, but I don't tend to claim boulder projects. I appreciate your courtesy though. If I have put a ton of prep into something and am feeling possessive, I wouldn't talk about it;) It is fun working on stuff with other people and a little friendly competition helps. The area could use a little clean up. It got trashed from the big rock fall off the Main cliff a few years ago. Some debris ended up in the cav... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Boulders Below The Main... : Photo
By: M Sprague When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Jamie was thinking it might be a 6, but I suspect it may be a little harder. We ended up starting with right hand where his is, left down at a little undercling, right heel up high, pull on, left toe pinching down low and bumping the right hand up. Then we were trying to shoot way out left for a bear hug at the lip of the arete. He was getting his hand there, me not close. I think holding it will be hard and there are a couple moves to go.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Boulders Below The Main... : Photo
By: M Sprague When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Photo taken before it was scrubbed. There are anchors on the block above for setting up a TR (highball with very bad landing otherwise). It went easier than I expected, maybe V3 using the shelf to the right for the hands. Starting left of the arete, on the curving flakes, hasn't been done yet.

The face to the left of the arete is about V2, highball, with a not great landing. Both routes just TRed so far. Maybe after a bit more scrubbing and laps to make sure the holds are going to stay and a bi... more >>


Location: Rhode Island
By: M Sprague When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments:
Damn! Happens so often in RI..great boulder right ...
Damn! Happens so often in RI..great boulder right next to somebody's house



Location: NH : Rumney : The North West Territories : B-b-buttress (5.9) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: The block his left foot is on is now gone.


Location: Rhode Island : Rockville : Deception Boulder
By: M Sprague When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: Carefully zooming in and comparing the tax map from the Town of Hopkinton(lot 19 is Audubon, lot 21 is DEM) to this map from the DEM (use imagery base map and zoom in) showing the boulder, I think it is pretty clear the boulder is on DEM land. Use a north south line through the boulder to features on the other side of the pond to compare. I am guessing the Aud... more >>


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : The "Lost" Boulder
By: M Sprague When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: The snow is gone from the approach and the boulder is nice and dry. You may still want rubber boots for the hike in for the water, but it is doable without if you pick your way through spots. The new bridge 100 ft. upstream from the old crossing makes getting over the high water easy. Hiking in on the NS trail, look for a 7-8 ft boulder off on the left, before getting to the pond. Shwack down to the stream from there.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Jolt (5.10a)
By: M Sprague When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: Good news, Ward. Nice work.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Hinterland Highway (5.6) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Apr 4, 2015

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Comments: The most perfect handjam coming up soon


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Hinterland Highway (5.6) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Apr 4, 2015

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Comments: Nice portrait, Lee. I like the lighting, especially the hand reaching in the light, which emphasizes her focus, adding depth to the personality; more than simply pretty form.


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Juicy Fingers (5.10a)
By: M Sprague When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: The only way I would say those 30 yo pins (in often soaked broken schist) are solid is yes, they are not a liquid or gas. You should go back and test them with a hammer Eli, and see how they sound, and maybe give them a light funk. You wouldn't have much rope out at all if you fell on them. Remember the Eiger Sanction


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Rainbow Slabs : 3. The Mid Section : Dead Easy (5.1) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: Looks like she was digging it. Did she stay with climbing?


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering
By: M Sprague When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: Elie, these were the only boulderers out today. The one in the front might have been Jay.

Conditions - not so good. Lots of snow and very cold.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Boulders Below The Main... : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Feb 15, 2015

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Comments: Added some boulders and changed a few names


Location: CA : High Desert : High Desert Bouldering : Wagon Wheel : Easter egg (V1+)
By: M Sprague When: Feb 6, 2015

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Comments: Jen (and others), you can make corrections such as FA information or adding to the description, directions etc. using the 'Improve this Page' button above. Both the OP and the area administrator will see the suggestion.


Location: NH : Rumney : The G-Spot
By: M Sprague When: Jan 20, 2015

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Comments: from George Grzyb

"Would recommend adding 3 new subsections, with the following order:

Upper Tier (L to R)
- Drill'n in my Dreams
- She Goes Both Ways
- Layback and Relax
- Kegals and Locks

Middle Tier (L to R)
- Bumpin the Gate

Lower Tier (L to R)
- Drip of Fools"


Location: Sport Climbing : Cleaning Sport Anchors
By: M Sprague When: Jan 16, 2015

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Comments: jmicher, always rapping is somewhat of a holdover idea from traditional climbing, where one often would not be using huge bomber, easily replaceable anchors and not so applicable to modern sport anchors. It is a judgement call for each situation, balancing safety (top priority) and convenience with potential wear on your rope and the anchor. With a properly constructed sport anchor the wear point is thick steel and easily replaceable and it is meant for the last person down to directly lower of... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Orange Sunshine (5.5)
By: M Sprague When: Jan 7, 2015

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Comments: Pretty much a full half rope (60m) length, especially starting on the low side of the boulder, as people do now. Knot the end of your rope.


Location: Rhode Island : Rockville : Deception Boulder
By: M Sprague When: Dec 23, 2014

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Comments: Damn Germans and their highway associations!


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Boulders Below The Main... : The Mallery Boulder : Who Killed the Butler (V1-)
By: M Sprague When: Dec 17, 2014

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Comments: I haven't looked closely in a while, but I seem to remember seeing at least one bolt hole. I'll check next time I go by it.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Boulders Below The Main... : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Dec 17, 2014

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Comments: Nice Glenn. Do you remember any details; name, FA? If you know anything about other older routes it would be fun to get them recorded.


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