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Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lich...


Member Since: Nov 9, 2006
Last Visit: 25 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 68
Total Points: 5,196
Last Year: 578
Last 30 Days: 10
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has M Sprague been climbing?










Contributions


All 3282 | Routes 131 | Areas 62 | Photos 328 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 1313 | Posts 882 | Stars 508 | Ratings 57
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Percolator (5.7)
By: M Sprague When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Having this in mind might make the route more fun



Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Square Ledge (Mt Passaconaw...
By: M Sprague When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Looks like it is the same. The place looks amazing. I have been meaning to take a hike in and have a look. It's too bad a bunch of the routes protection had to be removed since it was in wilderness where you can't use a power drill. I wonder if they can be put back in by hand.

Edit - From what I can see so far, fixed protection is allowed, just not power drills fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUM... see pg 22. I know there was a bolt issue at Big Rck Cave (also in th... more >>


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Square Ledge (Mt Passaconaw...
By: M Sprague When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Bradley, is this the same Square Ledge listed in Handren's guide northconwayrockclimbs.com/nort... (from northconwayrockclimbs.com/ ) where Ray and others put up a bunch of routes before the FS jumped on them, or is this another wall further south?

As far as bicycles go, legally you can only take them in as far as the boundary to the Wilderness area I believe.


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Working Man (5.7 PG13) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Nov 19, 2014

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Comments: What happened, Lee? It looks like you shrunk.


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Working Man (5.7 PG13)
By: M Sprague When: Nov 17, 2014

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Comments: I agree, Lee. No need to grid bolt the face if it can easily be TRed.


Location: NH : Greens Cliff : The Northeastern Crags : Squeeze Box (5.8) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Nov 13, 2014

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Comments: Easier beta, I think, is if you go in deep (it widens some in the back) and you face left.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Nov 8, 2014

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Comments: Lots of noobish opinions here or ones influenced by outdated considerations. Yes, rapping will save some wear, but these kinds of anchors are designed to be lowered off, and the installers intend you to do so. It is simpler, faster, and, assuming you don't have a moron for a belayer, safer. The way to deal with your concerns about wearing them out is to contribute to anchor replacement, either replacing them yourself if you have the knowledge or contribute some dollars to those who do. Your loca... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Vantage Point (5.11)
By: M Sprague When: Oct 25, 2014

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Comments: Vantage or Lee's 12? I think bolting Vantage at this point, the face would be pretty grid bolted. I could see doing the arete personally before that because it is so beautiful, but it is slightly contrived not pulling into the chimney.


Location: NH : Owl's Cliff (off Kancamagu... : The Right Cliff : The 5.10 Wall : The Gap Abides (5.12d)
By: M Sprague When: Oct 23, 2014

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Comments: Lots of ways people can have fun on it. Me, I think I would try it on TR and see if I can even free all the moves, lol. Hopefully this worthy line (either way) will get some more ascents and we will get a consensus. I remember thinking it was quite a bit harder, but I think I was only on it once or twice. You know how it is, sometimes when working a route one can get tunnel vision and miss something that makes all the difference, especially on such a technical route. Maybe you were pretty fat an... more >>


Location: NH : Owl's Cliff (off Kancamagu... : The Right Cliff : The 5.10 Wall : The Gap Abides (5.12d)
By: M Sprague When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: Will, if you or Ray ever feel up to describing the way you hike in to rap in from the top, I can put it in the The Right Cliff directions. I have never gone in that way. The way we would come up from the Oracle boulders, since we camped near there, has probably gotten overgrown from lack of use. (last I checked, the way over to the left cliff was easy to follow)


Location: NH : Owl's Cliff (off Kancamagu... : The Right Cliff : The 5.10 Wall : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: #5 is now 'The Gap Abides'. Getting time for an updated topo.


Location: NH : Greens Cliff : The Main Wall : The Muffin Man (5.12c)
By: M Sprague When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: Glad someone finished this up for me. Nice job. Seeing the pictures is getting me psyched to come back after a season of bouldering to get on it again. I thought the bulge was going to be a bit harder than that. You guys are strong, and sandbaggers ;) Don't want to think about the alternative, lol


Location: NH : Greens Cliff : The Main Wall : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: #9 is now 'Muffin Man' 12c, FA - Will Carey. I suspect that may be a little stiff grading.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering
By: M Sprague When: Oct 21, 2014

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Comments: I'm not a fan of the Umbrella Traverse either- polished feet from people getting on it with muddy shoes and tweaky handholds, a perfect combination for tweaking out on a cold rainy day. Better off hitting Evolution in Concord or just exploring. Generally, the higher up the hill you are, the more chance the rock has been able to dry out. Maybe have a look at some of the stuff below Monsters of the Id crag. The Venus Caves bouldering is steep. It needs cleaning though. There is really little bould... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Schist Show Boulders (below... : Unsorted problems : Pumpkin Riot (V1)
By: M Sprague When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: New name!


Location: NH : Greens Cliff : The Northeastern Crags : Pick a Card (5.9+)
By: M Sprague When: Oct 16, 2014

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Comments: 'Interesting' route. Currently could use a bit more cleaning, but it is a cool line. Tape will make the hand jams through the upper bulge more friendly.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Northwest Passage : The Lord's Prayer (5.10c)
By: M Sprague When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: Nice that one got cleaned up and done. It always looked like it would have some good climbing.


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Panama Hat (aka Mister Mean... (5.9)
By: M Sprague When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: That was always the original name, Lee. I was making fun of myself and it has a double meaning.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Schist Show Boulders (below... : Unsorted problems : ... : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: ... but it shows the starting hold. Don't let it put you off from the route. It is steep and fun. I'll try to get a better picture.

It could use a little more re-brushing to pretty it up, but I recently re-climbed it, so the holds are clean.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Schist Show Boulders (below... : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: Thanks. Corrected. I'm not actually sure why I put the decimal before the number. ...Yup, quite a few good lines to do here. Some need a posse with a big pile of pads though.


Location: NH : Rumney : Yellow Knife Buttress : Cow Patty (5.10a)
By: M Sprague When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: Sure you weren't at the 5.8 crag, Nick? ;)


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Schist Show Boulders (below... : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: First draft - subject to change - No guarantee of accuracy or suitability for use. Use at your own risk. You may become disoriented, lost, fall in a hole, become inspired to engage in unsafe activities..

Have any suggestions or information to improve it, let me know. I am working on my rudimentary Inkscape skills.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Schist Show Boulders (below... : The Hi Boulder
By: M Sprague When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: Tim, this is the correct boulder for Climb High and McCandles? I just gave the boulder a quick name for organizational purposes (plus it is the intro boulder at the start of the trail). If anybody has anything better in mind, let me know.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Schist Show Boulders (below... : The Hi Boulder : Climbing High? (V0)
By: M Sprague When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: Tim, this is about in the middle of the face, correct?


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Anaconda-Da-Vida (5.12c/d)
By: M Sprague When: Oct 14, 2014

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Comments: It may have been patched up or removed since I was last on it. It originally had very visible, aqua green colored epoxy smeared around it. (early technology I guess) I never really understood it, as it wasn't a really necessary hold anyway, though the hold did provide a shake for some.


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