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The Hammer


Member Since: Nov 9, 2006
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact M Sprague


Point Rank: # 68
Total Points: 5,226
Last Year: 510
Last 30 Days: 27
73 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has M Sprague been climbing?










Contributions


All 3376 | Routes 131 | Areas 62 | Photos 333 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1315 | Posts 967 | Stars 509 | Ratings 57
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : The "Lost" Boulder
By: M Sprague When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Still lots of snow on the approach to the boulder today. I was punching through almost to my knees in places, sometimes with water below, so wear your Wellies. The river is also raging, as to be expected, but somebody built a nice plank bridge over to a downed tree about 100' upstream from the usual crossing, so it is no problem getting over. 6" of ice and snow still on top of the boulder. I'll try to get back with a shovel later this week. Only Summit or Die and Drive By were completely dry. Fr... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering
By: M Sprague When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: Elie, these were the only boulderers out today. The one in the front might have been Jay.

Conditions - not so good. Lots of snow and very cold.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Boulders Below The Main... : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Feb 15, 2015

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Comments: Added some boulders and changed a few names


Location: CA : High Desert : High Desert Bouldering : Wagon Wheel : Easter egg (V1+)
By: M Sprague When: Feb 6, 2015

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Comments: Jen (and others), you can make corrections such as FA information or adding to the description, directions etc. using the 'Improve this Page' button above. Both the OP and the area administrator will see the suggestion.


Location: NH : Rumney : The G-Spot
By: M Sprague When: Jan 20, 2015

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Comments: from George Grzyb

"Would recommend adding 3 new subsections, with the following order:

Upper Tier (L to R)
- Drill'n in my Dreams
- She Goes Both Ways
- Layback and Relax
- Kegals and Locks

Middle Tier (L to R)
- Bumpin the Gate

Lower Tier (L to R)
- Drip of Fools"


Location: Sport Climbing : Cleaning Sport Anchors
By: M Sprague When: Jan 16, 2015

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Comments: jmicher, always rapping is somewhat of a holdover idea from traditional climbing, where one often would not be using huge bomber, easily replaceable anchors and not so applicable to modern sport anchors. It is a judgement call for each situation, balancing safety (top priority) and convenience with potential wear on your rope and the anchor. With a properly constructed sport anchor the wear point is thick steel and easily replaceable and it is meant for the last person down to directly lower of... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Orange Sunshine (5.5)
By: M Sprague When: Jan 7, 2015

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Comments: Pretty much a full half rope (60m) length, especially starting on the low side of the boulder, as people do now. Knot the end of your rope.


Location: Rhode Island : Rockville : Deception Boulder
By: M Sprague When: Dec 23, 2014

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Comments: Damn Germans and their highway associations! Looking closely at this map from the town of Hopkinton and comparing it to the location of the boulder and the driveways on the north side of the pond via Bing Birdseye, it looks to me like it is very much on DEM land. Next thing would be to go to the town hall and look at the actual deeds for the parcels.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Boulders Below The Main... : The Mallery Boulder : Who Killed the Butler (V1-)
By: M Sprague When: Dec 17, 2014

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Comments: I haven't looked closely in a while, but I seem to remember seeing at least one bolt hole. I'll check next time I go by it.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Boulders Below The Main... : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Dec 17, 2014

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Comments: Nice Glenn. Do you remember any details; name, FA? If you know anything about other older routes it would be fun to get them recorded.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Lower Left Wall / Ventilato... : Ventilator (5.10b)
By: M Sprague When: Dec 16, 2014

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Comments: I bet that ring bolt badly needs replacement. From experience of some at Rumney, they look OK on the outside, but when you take them out to replace them they are horrifying.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Boulders Below The Main... : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Dec 15, 2014

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Comments: Thanks. I'll have another look. It was drizzling when I was there so I didn't get on top.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Boulders Below The Main... : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Dec 13, 2014

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Comments: Ring a bell? An old Eric Mushial highball?


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Boulders Below The Main... : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Dec 13, 2014

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Comments: Does anybody know anything about this crack. It is on a 20' tall boulder up the hill and right from the Time Boulder and not too far from the trail to Orange Crush, though you don't really notice it from the trail. You see it best from below. Somehow I don't remember ever noticing this boulder until this Fall. The crack is highball and comes out of a pit. It looks like it was cleaned at least partially at some point.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Boulders Below The Main... : The Hi Boulder
By: M Sprague When: Dec 12, 2014

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Comments: This really needs a better name unless somebody is going to put up some routes called "Hey Fellas" and "Hi There"


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Boulders Below The Main... : The Mallery Boulder
By: M Sprague When: Dec 12, 2014

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Comments: Does anybody remember the names of John's bolted lines here or some history? I asked Den Dana (the early Rumney guidebook author) and he keyed me into the fact that there were two bolted lines, not just one, but he didn't remember any names.


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Wendell's Route (5.6)
By: M Sprague When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: It heads up basically towards the tree on the left.


Location: Rhode Island : Beach Pond : Normandy : Normandy Project (V7)
By: M Sprague When: Dec 3, 2014

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Comments: Got a name you would like to call it, Bryan? Also, date and anyone else to list on the FA?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : The Flying Beast (5.12d) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: Those bolts look gnarly too, unless the heads are painted brown. Have they been replace with stainless?


Location: NH : Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Percolator (5.7)
By: M Sprague When: Nov 23, 2014

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Comments: Having this in mind might make the route more fun



Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Square Ledge (Mt Passaconaw...
By: M Sprague When: Nov 21, 2014

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Comments: Looks like it is the same. The place looks amazing. I have been meaning to take a hike in and have a look. It's too bad a bunch of the routes protection had to be removed since it was in wilderness where you can't use a power drill. I wonder if they can be put back in by hand.

Edit - From what I can see so far, fixed protection is allowed, just not power drills fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUM... see pg 22. I know there was a bolt issue at Big Rck Cave (also in th... more >>


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Square Ledge (Mt Passaconaw...
By: M Sprague When: Nov 21, 2014

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Comments: Bradley, is this the same Square Ledge listed in Handren's guide northconwayrockclimbs.com/nort... (from northconwayrockclimbs.com/ ) where Ray and others put up a bunch of routes before the FS jumped on them, or is this another wall further south?

As far as bicycles go, legally you can only take them in as far as the boundary to the Wilderness area I believe.


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Working Man (5.7 PG13) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Nov 19, 2014

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Comments: What happened, Lee? It looks like you shrunk.


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Working Man (5.7 PG13)
By: M Sprague When: Nov 17, 2014

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Comments: I agree, Lee. No need to grid bolt the face if it can easily be TRed.


Location: NH : Greens Cliff : The Northeastern Crags : Squeeze Box (5.8) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Nov 13, 2014

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Comments: Easier beta, I think, is if you go in deep (it widens some in the back) and you face left.


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