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Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lich...


Member Since: Nov 9, 2006
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 65
Total Points: 5,761
Last Year: 914
Last 30 Days: 264
75 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has M Sprague been climbing?










Contributions


All 3727 | Routes 133 | Areas 79 | Photos 367 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1405 | Posts 1164 | Stars 516 | Ratings 61
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : *Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Granny's Route (5.4) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Aug 26, 2015

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Comments: We should write a "Rumney Select" guidebook full of Bradley White adventure climbs and other obscurities and put that on the cover. It might help disperse the crowds.


Location: NH : *Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Granny's Route (5.4) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Aug 26, 2015

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Comments: Killer!


Location: NH : WM: Crawford Notch : Stairs Mountain
By: M Sprague When: Aug 25, 2015

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Comments: Brian, here is the direct link to the Forest Management Plan last revised in 2009.

There are different designation of wilderness with differing restrictions. I have to dig in more to confirm, but I believe Stairs is not in the most restrictive designation.


Location: NH : WM: Crawford Notch : Unsorted Crawford Notch Rou...
By: M Sprague When: Aug 25, 2015

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Comments: Thanks Bradley. When we get a Websters area made I will move them in in that order.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Prudential : Mission Accomplished (5.12a)
By: M Sprague When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: Fun burly moves through the crux. Short but definitely worth getting on.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Center : Full Throttle (5.12a/b)
By: M Sprague When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: Instant mini classic! Three stars of fun in a two star route (only because of its length)


Location: NH : WM: Kancamagus (Central) : Greens Cliff : The Northeastern Crags : Squeeze Box (5.8)
By: M Sprague When: Aug 16, 2015

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Comments: Amy lead the second pitch this past week. Grade is maybe 5.8++, but a pretty adventurous feeling one. I wouldn't send anyone up it on lead if inexperienced and pushing their limit as placing some of the gear may be a little strenuous and barndoory to check, and you want to check them well to see that they are in the good rock. This climb is not completely civilized, despite the bolted anchors on both pitches :) But what a cool feature! Recommended if you like a little adventure.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Orange Crush : Tropicana (5.11a)
By: M Sprague When: Aug 16, 2015

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Comments: The formerly tenuous hold for setting up for the big left hand undercling horn in the crux seems to have "changed" to now be a good incut in the back. Still tricky to onsight, but the grade of the first pitch has been reduced to 10+ I think. I hadn't been on it for a while 'till yesterday and was reminded what a great climb it is.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Hinterlands : Giant Man (5.12b/c)
By: M Sprague When: Aug 12, 2015

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Comments: It must have loosened up. I don't tend to leave loose stuff when I prep routes. If there are good alternatives and it isn't an especially aesthetic hold it should probably be removed, when it can be done safely.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Bakery
By: M Sprague When: Aug 11, 2015

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Comments: No new routes that I know of, Soon, nor anchor upgrading. It is probably alright to go there if you are quiet, but I kind of figure it isn't worth bothering with. If you want something new ...


Location: NH : WM: Kancamagus (Central) : Greens Cliff : The Northeastern Crags : Thin Slice (5.10)
By: M Sprague When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: Followed Tom up this the other day. I thought it was a lot of fun. Generally good jams, laybacks and pinches with the occasional necessary small smears for the feet that kept it technical and a little more pumpy than you might expect. It is always fun running up a crack along an arete.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Bolt Line (5.8 PG13)
By: M Sprague When: Aug 5, 2015

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Comments: I understand Hans. Once you start placing fixed gear it makes sense to have them bolted reasonably safely, and I have been a party to upgrading many routes at Rumney. There is a point though.. Sometimes at Rumney it is necessary to have quite close bolts to keep leaders from hitting a ledge, but if you try to make it so safe that even somebody completely over their head and with a bad belayer can't hurt themselves, it ends up detracting from the enjoyment of the rest of the climbers.
If it was ... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Bolt Line (5.8 PG13)
By: M Sprague When: Aug 5, 2015

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Comments: The route was already retrobolted and is fine. The kids were in over their heads. It is impossible to make a climb completely safe for everyone.


Location: nicksalwayssleeping : out n about : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Jul 30, 2015

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Comments: You should talk to Whitey (John McLean). I am pretty sure he climbed that back in the 80s. Unfortunately I don't remember any of the names of the routes he did there except one was called 'Football and Toast'. The whole wall was pretty much scoured for any potential lines back in the day. There where a number of pretty good South county climbers who would go there in the 80s when they were looking for something local to play on. It is great if it is seeing some action though.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff : Goldbug Finish (5.12b)
By: M Sprague When: Jul 30, 2015

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Comments: Hasn't happened yet. Smitty and I got called to other locations. This whole 'life interfering with climbing and route fixing up' thing is for the birds :))


Location: NH : *Rumney : Yellowknife Buttress
By: M Sprague When: Jul 30, 2015

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Comments: Usually replacing bolts is not an organised group activity, rather somebody with the skills and tools decides to pack up a big backpack and walks up there. It is kind of a one or two person job. If you see Chris, Dave, Ward or Pete of the RCA (the usual suspects doing it these days) ask what the best practices are now and if there is anything you can do to help. You can always pick a route you want to climb that is looking green and spend some time giving it a scrub.


Location: NH : WM: Albany Area : White Ledge
By: M Sprague When: Jul 28, 2015

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Comments: Probably better to have this conversation elsewhere (privates or forum). My comment wasn't meant to be negative towards you, merely pointing to the purpose of the site.


Location: NH : WM: Kancamagus (Central) : Owl's Cliff : The Left Cliff : RGC - Open Spaces Area : Open Spaces (5.12a/b)
By: M Sprague When: Jul 28, 2015

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Comments: Cool! I guess the tree has fallen out of the way. The Champagne is tucked into an alcove behind a rock under a boulder ;) No guarantees on what it will taste like at this point.


Location: NH : WM: Albany Area : White Ledge
By: M Sprague When: Jul 27, 2015

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Comments: Agree, John. The very point of MP is to share quality information. If you want to discover by yourself, then don't read it.


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : RoadSide Wall : Firecracker Crimps (V5 PG13)
By: M Sprague When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: Anybody been able to repeat this since the break?


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff : Underdog (5.10a) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Jul 21, 2015

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Comments: It is a super popular route, both as a warm-up and project, and is protected by overhangs above, so seldom gets rain on it to wash it off. Also, everybody chalks up there before launching around to the slot.


Location: NH : Dartmouth/Lake Sunapee : Newbury Cut
By: M Sprague When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: It is sad the boy died, but if people go overboard leaving every spot where someone died as only a memorial, there won't be any spots left on the Earth. A place can be a memorial and a place of joyful use at the same time.


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Labyrinth Wall Direct (5.11) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: Holy crap! That needs to be replaced asap. What the hell is wrong with people?


Location: NH : WM: Kancamagus (Central) : Greens Cliff
By: M Sprague When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: Max, I'll be probably be there this weekend working on some stuff at the Beanstalk Wall if it is not raining too much (right above Premarital). I haven't been to the Premarital Wall this year yet as it tends to be the wettest, but it may be dried out now. There is still only Premarital Blisters and one half cleaned project to the right of it that I was working on until it got wet that starts up the left facing corner then continues up the face via thin cracks. Still possible lines there if you d... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Prudential : Losing Your Life and Living... (5.12c)
By: M Sprague When: Jul 15, 2015

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Comments: Haven't heard of any. I have actually been eyeing it and the Premium as possible projects lately, but a couple new route projects out at Greens are taking my attention. I noticed the top half of the Premium could use a bit of re-cleaning, so LYL<it might need a little too.


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