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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Grizzly Creek Wall (aka Mud... : DEFCON 1 (5.11c/d)
By: Lynn S When: Nov 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is now a more direct first pitch for DEFCON 1, just put this in last Friday. I would put the rating at 10b/c, more sustained climbing than the original start. Both starts end at the same anchor.
The variation begins about 20 feet left of the original. Climb past two bolts while staying left of a small dirty corner. Continue up past 3 more bolts, a #3 camalot and yellow tcu placement and one final bolt to the anchor. 70 feet and still needs some cleaning. There are a couple of ... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : The Two Sides of Purple (5.10)
By: Lynn S When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is pretty good climbing and makes you use just about every technique out there. We had paper to cover when spraying but the wind took it for a ride at a most inopportune time. It needs some traffic to clean up, but will still be sandy after a rain, too much choss above, keeps feeding the sand down.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : The Two Sides of Purple (5.10)
By: Lynn S When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: @ 12at12 - Our intent was a continuation off pinheads that can be done safely, thus avoiding going up the choss above the anchor we put in. Josh and I thought it best to have something additional that is safely climbable rather than another route that people look at and move on down the road because of the choss above.
Do you want me to change the FA, will that make you feel better, I could care less? I was happy to put in the time, energy, etc. to make a nice long pitch of good climbing.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Mars : Hubble (5.11+)
By: Lynn S When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tough bouldery crux, I had to pull through, followed by incredible moves left and over a small roof. The corner above is tricky, at least it was for me. Great stone.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Mars : Tax Free $ (5.10c)
By: Lynn S When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun climbing the entire way. A couple of cruxy sections, overall the climbing keeps your attention the entire route.
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Location: CO : Indoor Walls : Glenwood Springs Rec Center : Natural features 5.11d/12a (5.12a)
By: Lynn S When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seemed a bit chossy and loose in places, maybe it will clean up with more traffic.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Grizzly Creek Wall (aka Mud... : DEFCON 1 (5.11c/d) : Photo
By: Lynn S When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 4 not shown, will add that red line soon.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Grizzly Creek Wall (aka Mud... : DEFCON 1 (5.11c/d)
By: Lynn S When: Sep 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route is cleaning up nicely, quality climbing on each pitch. The climbing gets better as you go up, the rock on pitches 3 and 4 is excellent quartzite. Just a couple of 5.11 moves, the rest is in the 5.10 range.
Be prepared for placing cams in horizontals, especially on pitch 3.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Trailhead Wall : Squid Kid (5.10a)
By: Lynn S When: Aug 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic route!
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Butt Wall : The Nose (5.6)
By: Lynn S When: Aug 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very enjoyable route, first pitch will make anyone think with the famous Monitor polish.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Trailhead Wall : Trooper Traverse (5.8 PG13)
By: Lynn S When: Aug 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun moderate to get off the ground. Pitch two crux move is good jamming through the bulge, fixed pin there to clip.
Last pitch left facing dihedral is cool, stay left of the orange lichen however. You can bail from the top of this pitch by climbing down to the right on a ramp and then back up to a large ledge on the right, exposed moves but easy 5.3.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Culp-Bossier (5.8+)
By: Lynn S When: Aug 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As good as I remembered the route being. Great fun being on the route with my son Tobin. Excellent climbing in a great setting. Fun to be out there with Clay and Alex, even though they ignored us and got off route:)
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Opening Ceremony Wall : Batter Up (5.10b)
By: Lynn S When: Jul 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mellow juggy climbing to a weird finish. There is a hidden bolt on the right lip of the roof. Pulling through the roof always gives me fits, not sure why. This move is harder for me than anything on League of Nations, 11a, 50 feet to the left.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Olympic Wall : Fox Trot (5.8)
By: Lynn S When: Jul 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed, super fun for a 5.8. Bomber holds, great location, shady in the morning. Nice warm-up for getting on the harder routes in the area.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Olympic Wall : 50 Yard Dash (5.10a)
By: Lynn S When: Jul 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route, with a crux at the get go, stick clipping would be wise. Blowing the first clip would be painful. Moves at the top are very fun. The optional cam section is pretty easy, 5.7ish big holds, you decide.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Wall : One for the Road (5.10c)
By: Lynn S When: Jul 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolts are in odd spots but the climbing from just below the first bolt (green Camalot) to the anchor is really fun, cool movement.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : South Face (5.8)
By: Lynn S When: Jun 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just back from completing this with my 16 year old son, what a treat. I had done the route multiple times back in the '90s, but a first trip up for Tobin.
Rap route is nice for getting down quickly. Vermin will eat your stuff at the base, beware. "Crux" pitch has 4 or 5 fixed cams, makes for quick clip and go pitch:)
I am amazed that people can complain, see comments above, about this route. It is a fun, moderate route; great setting, good alpine rock and phenomenal summit.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon
By: Lynn S When: Jun 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of Friday June 26 there is still snow below the falls draining Lake of Glass and a little around Sky Pond. However it is easy to get up there in light approach shoes. Finally the warm weather is melting the snow quickly.
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Location: CO : Carbondale : The Narrows : The Front Porch : Girdle on the Porch (5.11b/c)
By: Lynn S When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This actually flows nicely from right to left. There are probably two crux moves, the first between the 2nd and 3rd clip and then between the last two bolts. The photo above clearly shows those spots. You may not be able to gather much beta from the photo, sorry.
However you can be thankful that you are not wearing one of these undergarments:)
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Wall : Stranger Than Fiction (5.9)
By: Lynn S When: Jun 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climbing the entire way, crux in the first couple of moves, with one other thoughtful section midway. This and Twin Cracks make for a nice duo of moderates, good warm-ups for the harder Grotto routes.
Plus by climbing at the Grotto Wall you can be in lots of tourists summer photos, pose well!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock
By: Lynn S When: Jun 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Snow conditions in the Park? Anyone with info on the approach to the Spearhead? What about up to the Petit?
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Location: Red Dogg : Me : Photo
By: Lynn S When: Jun 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry ladies, Red Dogg was seen last night hanging by the campfire with a little lady named Polly Pocket........ Could it be love, only time will tell......
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Location: Red Dogg : Me : Photo
By: Lynn S When: Jun 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Red Dogg ticks off lines so fast he does not have time to change in and out of a harness. That is how he rolls Mike; trad, sport, bouldering whatever, whenever.......
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : Feline (5.11b)
By: Lynn S When: May 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice work Torrey, off the couch to TR an 11!
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : East Canyon : Hole Wall : Within Range (5.10c/d)
By: Lynn S When: Apr 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crux is the first few moves. Overall a fun route with thoughtful climbing the entire way.
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