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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Room With A View (A2+)
By: Luke Malatesta When: Jul 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route now goes free...there are four bolts on route and new chain anchors..
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Sand Flats : Elvis's Hammer : Hormones in Waiting (5.10)
By: Luke Malatesta When: Jan 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 100'...think we rapped with 1 60m.....Desert Rock 3 says 100.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Anasazi Buttress : Seam Crack (A3-4 R)
By: Luke Malatesta When: Jan 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are two bolts leading off the belay to the right into a thin seam. I dont think it would be any worse than what you have done to get there already. It did not look like it had been nailed, but there could be anchors on top...who knows....I would think it had been done though. Be kinda wierd if it just stopped. Probabily wouldn't need any heavy drilling.....Looks like it would take thin stuff.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Anasazi Buttress : Artist Tears (5.8 A4)
By: Luke Malatesta When: Dec 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I haven't gone back up there yet, not sense we fixed it up....I was just reminiscing..Hopefully I will get up there before x-mas, I have some other business going on up there on that wall..It will fixed by the spring though for sure...sooner the better though before they become useless blown out holes..Luckily it does not get a lot of traffic and it gets no sun this time of year.
As far as cleaning thin brass, I use a pika nutbuster and nut tool..Pops them right out and saves the cable(s)...It ... more >>
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : Lunar Ecstasy (5.10 C2+)
By: Luke Malatesta When: Dec 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic Route...One of the best I have done in Zion..
Direct start was super cool...
Third Pitch is awkward as hell to aid (Talon useful)...
The Half Moon Traverse (pitch 4) seemed harder than the topo indicated (we counted less bolts than shown on the topo)
Old "crux" pitch was NTB...tricams and a hook were key..Nice spread for a ledge here.
"Alien Leapfrog" pitch seemed longer than 120'.
The "Amoeba pitch" goes well with thin brass offsets and a bathook hole (when you are stumped feel a... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Anasazi Buttress : Artist Tears (5.8 A4)
By: Luke Malatesta When: Dec 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think that this route is on the upper end of C3....I have never climbed anything that is C4 though.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Anasazi Buttress : Seam Crack (A3-4 R)
By: Luke Malatesta When: Dec 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Replaced Pitch 1 anchors (all stardrives w/ leeper hangers are now 1/2" or 3/8" 5-piece RAWLS) and all lead bolts during a solo. First pitch is close to 120'. Stumps, Beaks, and leeper Z nailers were key. Patched a few holes as well...
The "rivet" ladder starting pitch 2 are small (1/4" or smaller) 5 piece Rawls....Smalest RAWLS I have ever seen....
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Desert Shield Buttress : Desert Shield (5.11a C3)
By: Luke Malatesta When: Sep 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did this route yesterday-excellent free climbing down low and great aiding up high on the exposed headwall...no need to fix a rope for the decent to ptich 4.
We used:
2x blue alien - #4 C4 (nothing bigger)
c3's
many offset brass
no normal stoppers
hybrid aliens
aluminum offsets
assorted hooks
no camhooks
2x 60m ropes
rivet hangers
--May want to bring new webbing for anchors--
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Room With A View (A2+)
By: Luke Malatesta When: Aug 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sty put this up with me a couple of years ago. It has cleaned up nicely is hard quality free line with a couple of variations to the start and finish. The route now has three tan bolts and takes (good)supplemental gear (#1 Camalot low & .75 Camalot high) where the climbing crosses the seam. Probably hard .11 or 12-.......grades are a consensus anyhow. New chain anchors. Located immediately left of Knapping with the Alien.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)
By: Luke Malatesta When: Apr 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did this route yesterday...Thanks Sam for fixing it up. Great climb. This thing eats up offsets(aliens and HB's). Large Aliens make blown-out boxes very managable. Did not use any hooks and could have done without tricams (only placed one).
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Anasazi Buttress : Artist Tears (5.8 A4)
By: Luke Malatesta When: Nov 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route now goes clean. We did Tears' clean this November and cleaned it up a little too. It was in bad shape (the scars and some of the fixed gear). The route is awesome, steep, and sheer. We replaced bunches of bolts and all of the anchors are now bomber. Hopefully people will start to go and do this thing!
The route can be done several ways, over the years another set of anchors has appeared breaking the old-school pitch one into two short pitches. Pitches 1&2 are linkable as are 4&5. The... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : The Cirque of the Climbable... : Playing Hooky (5.10d C2)
By: Luke Malatesta When: Oct 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 4 is .12- i think.... rock turns to sugar in some places. The route is normially done in 4 long pitches.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Fine Jade (5.11a)
By: Luke Malatesta When: Aug 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did this route on Aug 12.....Amazing...nobody around, super quality and sustained for the most part.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : The Cirque of the Climbable... : Deep Voodoo (5.8 C2)
By: Luke Malatesta When: Aug 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: According to the ASCA's website, the route went clean in 1999 @ C3+ during an aid solo (http://www.safeclimbing.org/areas/utah/moab.htm).
An amazing route....I havent done it yet but find it to look a bit more hard than c2.
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