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Summit of the Grand, 10 am July 3, 2007


Member Since: Dec 10, 2001
Last Visit: Nov 29, 2014
Contact Luke Clarke


Point Rank: # 887
Total Points: 738
Last Year: 17
Last 30 Days: 0
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Luke Clarke been climbing?










Contributions


All 256 | Routes 16 | Areas | Photos 102 | Page Improvements | Comments 68 | Posts 3 | Stars 55 | Ratings 12
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Skinner Mountain : Central Corner (5.10a)
By: Luke Clarke When: Aug 25, 2013

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Comments: If you haven't climbed this yet, you should ask yourself why. You are not likely to find a better pitch of 5.10 climbing 20 minutes from the highway anywhere. Just saying.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Skinner Mountain : Central Corner (5.10a) : Photo
By: Luke Clarke When: Aug 25, 2013

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Comments: It's as good as it looks... and this looks as good as it gets.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Secret Crag (aka Ridge 6)
By: Luke Clarke When: Jan 19, 2013

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Comments: What is the route immediately to the right of Peri-Less Journey (and left of Burning Down the House)? It's been there at least 8 years. It has a crimpy crux at the 5th bolt and a higher crux through the roof. I have never done it clean and was with an 11b leader today who hung at both cruxes so I am guessing it's at least hard 11.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Working Class Hero (5.7)
By: Luke Clarke When: Nov 18, 2012

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Comments: Dave's description is spot on and tracks with the one on page 288 of the now mandatory Steve Levin guidebook. This climb has a bit of a taste of adventure for this area of Eldo. Gear is good and the rock... well it's Eldo. P1 and P3 are good fun.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Da Butts : Smegma Burns (5.9+)
By: Luke Clarke When: Aug 19, 2012

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Comments: The choices on the second pitch are guano or run out traverse. Most of us will choose run out. The leader risks slamming back into the right-facing corner and the second risks slamming into the left-facing corner under the roof.
Turns out the feet are decent, so stay low and out of the fecal matter. It's South Platte slab.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Da Butts : Roll Dem Bones (5.9+)
By: Luke Clarke When: Aug 19, 2012

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Comments: This route description makes the same minor error we did today, adding the second (very clean and very fun) second pitch of Ho De Do to Roll Dem Bones. However, the authoritative guidebook released earlier this year from Fixed Pin (don't climb here without it) makes it clear that Roll goes up the left-facing corner to the east for the second pitch.
Traverse about 15 right at the first belay, set your gear high in the crack with a long sling, ignore the lichen, jam, stem, grunt and groan up that ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Sheeprock : Land that Time Forgot : Ankar Gate (5.11-)
By: Luke Clarke When: Aug 5, 2012

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Comments: Excellent route. Carried 18 draws and used them all on p2 and nearly all on other pitches. You could easily back clean at a few places, but if you want to avoid that, take 18. They all are about 170-180 feet long. The route feels amazingly consistent at the grade with only a few full blown rests.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Citadel : Heart Of Norway (5.10c) : Photo
By: Luke Clarke When: Jun 21, 2012

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Comments: Please elaborate.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Job Review (5.11a)
By: Luke Clarke When: Dec 12, 2011

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Comments: If you're careful, you can rap to the wide ledge, which leaves a reasonable downclimb to the east, on a 60m (knot the ends to be safe).


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs : Revocation (5.9)
By: Luke Clarke When: Nov 15, 2011

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Comments: I think Tony meant to say Ain't no Puppy is the wider line on the left. In any case, this is a worthy pitch (didn't do the upper pitch due to the later hour).


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : Kor's Door (5.9-)
By: Luke Clarke When: Sep 7, 2011

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Comments: My partner and I were able to do this line and Hornsby Direct to Broadway in three pitches with 60m ropes.
End pitch one just over the first roof, as described.
Stretch pitch two past the shallow 5.8 dihedral and go up and left on ledges as far as possible.
Third pitch requires 30 or 40 feet of simul-climbing. The bottom guy is on easy 5.4 ledges and the leader is on maybe 5.8 face climbing.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : ... : Photo
By: Luke Clarke When: Sep 7, 2011

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Comments: This mapping is spot on, at least for the Kor's Door route and approach. My partner and I took the advice and went south on Broadway to Alexander's Chimney, so I can only speak to that part.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : Rap Descent from Top of Low... (5.0)
By: Luke Clarke When: Sep 7, 2011

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Comments: Has anyone tried this who has also rapped Alexander's Chimney? I'd be interested in a comparison. Did Alexander's as the descent from Kor's Door Monday, and I would prefer something with less water, loose rock and ice on it. I know it's an alpine climb but....


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Joy and Tribulation (5.9 R) : Photo
By: Luke Clarke When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: This actually depicts the start to Sidewinder. The start to Joy and Tribulation and Fantasy Ridge cuts right and out on the face about 30 feet off the ground and angles across the blank looking face catching the sun in this photo. I have done both and moving right onto the face is a better climb.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Joy and Tribulation (5.9 R)
By: Luke Clarke When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: One of the beta photos incorrectly depicts the first and second pitch. The narrative description gives the best option. Move right out out of the slanting crack at about 30 feet above the ground and on to the face. You can continue up the wide slanting crack through short brushy sections but then you would miss the bolted slab. I have done it both ways and the slab is not to be missed (while the bushes are). My 2 cents.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : Jellicle Cats (5.10a)
By: Luke Clarke When: Mar 15, 2011

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Comments: Maybe the best pitch on the crag (but I haven't attempted the 11).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Ghetto Cruiser (5.7)
By: Luke Clarke When: Nov 29, 2010

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Comments: This route is a nice warm up to start your day. It faces southeast and is one of the first lines on Cadillac to get sun. Sling gear long at the top of the corner, so you can traverse on to Easy Street and the bolt anchors. They were rigged with a long cordelette in good condition yesterday which made it possible to rap to the tree at the start of Ichiban (and another rap to the ground).


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Goose : Love's Labor Lost (5.10a/b)
By: Luke Clarke When: Oct 17, 2010

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Comments: A new #4 Camalot (about the same as the old 3.5) goes in nicely in a horizontal and a shoulder length sling lined up the rope with the bolts. Quality pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Goose : Deserted Cities of the Hear... (5.9)
By: Luke Clarke When: Oct 17, 2010

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Comments: I think most climbers will appreciate having a light rack. I placed a red Camalot on relatively easy ground between the 2nd and 3rd bolt above the ledge and a small nut horizontally higher. You'll see the placements if you want them bad enough. I anchored with Camalots ranging from #1 to #3 in the large horizontal at the top and used the single bolt as a backup and redirect. It's a fun pitch. Can't think of a reason to break into two pitches.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : E.L.100 (5.7)
By: Luke Clarke When: May 10, 2010

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Comments: The tree climbing adds a twist but when you get on the rock it is high quality. High angle jugging with some bomber jams tossed in. Kudos to the first ascentionists who found this. The 7 rating is old school. I agree with Crusher and Tony, more like 8+ if your standards are modern. I had never planned to do this because of the tree but my partner, Lenny Miller, did me a favor by putting it on the agenda. (It's also a good way to get to Smoke and Mirrors!)


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Rush Buick (5.7)
By: Luke Clarke When: Mar 15, 2010

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Comments: Two stars and 5.7. This would be a three-star trade route if the approach didn't suck. This one and Nobody's Home are "must do" climbs when you're in the area because you're probably not coming back soon. It's one of the cleaner and more consistent lines on this formation.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Milk Dreams (5.10a)
By: Luke Clarke When: Dec 13, 2009

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Comments: For the record, I inadvertently deleted a comment from my original post that Tony and Dave Holliday responded to. I am reposting now to keep the record clear and so their comments make sense.
It is possible to rap this route with one rope, as Lenny Miller and I did. I don't recommend it because it requires rapping from the anchor atop P1, a solid horn that sits above a large table top block balanced on a smaller rock.
Tony asks about trundling. I think it's a good idea, with all the proper preca... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Acrophile : Iced Tea (5.8+)
By: Luke Clarke When: Nov 12, 2009

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Comments: This pitch offers a little more challenge than it appears from the base. It looked like a short hand crack leading to a low-angle hike to the anchors. But the upper section provides some interesting climbing. It's worth a warm-up or, as in our case, some added mileage at the end of the day.


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome : Ramblin' Rose (5.10)
By: Luke Clarke When: Oct 26, 2009

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Comments: Highly recommend the Lady Slipper start. The grungy looking hand crack is actually nice inside where you're jamming. The bolted second pitch is good for your head. Lead it and the run out Pitch 5 will feel easier. I want to do this one again already it so fine.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Perversion (5.9)
By: Luke Clarke When: Oct 15, 2009

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Comments: This is a highly recommended route. I can't think of another that is more committing as soon as you pick up your feet. I had a good RP and a 0 Metolius in but if you fall and the gear blows it's a heinous looking landing. The dispute on the rating on the rest of the pitch likely comes from the fact that it would be easy to avoid the second crux, which felt 9+ at least to me, by traversing to the right and then back left at the ledge. I suspect some climbers do that whether or not they intend to ... more >>


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