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Member Since: Feb 27, 2005
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact Luke Bertelsen


Point Rank: # 508
Total Points: 1,117
Last Year: 146
Last 30 Days: 1
8 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Luke Bertelsen been climbing?










Contributions


All (804) | Routes (69) | Areas (14) | Photos (25) | Comments (92) | Posts (23) | Stars (367) | Ratings (214)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : Spectrum Wall
By: Luke Bertelsen When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Nice job, guys!!! Lots of untapped rock out there. Glad to hear more folks are gettin' after it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : The Gallery
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Mar 16, 2014

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Comments: Not all of us can be cool like Alex and brave all of the loose "near horizontal" gullies. Some of us prefer to be safe rather than sorry. I have kicked both pebble and microwave sized blocks down the gully in question and I much prefer the short rappel or hand over hand down a line. In many other climbing area a fixed line would be added here. Pretty sure that would just get taken also. In regards to the nut, it made for a more redundant anchor. No big deal on it getting swiped. I foun... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Arizona Flyways (5.11b/c)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: Please clarify. The bolt came out of the rock??, or did the nut come loose an then fall off with the hanger??

Big difference.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Last Lonely Eagle (5.10c)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Feb 21, 2014

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Comments: Heads up y'all. One of the handholds before the main ledge on this climb came off this week. It doesn't seem needed as it is where the climb veers left toward the arete, but its worth a mention.

Also, there is a pile of rubble/ choss on the ledge that should probably go. All of the blocks are of a good size and it'd be a shame if it came down on a belayer or climber hiking the main wall approach trail. Probably best to remove it when there is less traffic at the crag.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Whatchamacallit (5.8)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Feb 21, 2014

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Comments: Loose holds, marked with "x", above bolt 3. As seems common for the area there are some rotten bands of rock low on this climb. Regardless of how clean a route might seem or how much traffic it has had be aware when you are pulling on the bigger holds.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Rage to Live (5.13a/b)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Jan 29, 2014

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Comments: Currently there are older DMM Mambas w/ quick links on the bolts. The runner on bolt 4 is slightly suspect. By no means is it the worst I have seen (Maple Canyon, UT), but there is really no reason to have anything suspect on a route getting enough traffic to have fixed draws on it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : The Fish (5.12b)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Jan 22, 2014

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Comments: Whether this climb is enjoyable depends on how many holds have broken since it was last climbed or how many break while you are on your way up.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Pucker Up (5.13a/b)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Jan 18, 2014

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Comments: Ryan,

I added the 4 bolts. I spoke with Mike H., and he told me that they never climbed the bottom section at all. Thus, he was fine with it.

Also, IMO, bolting the bottom of this climb is totally in line with current trends both on Lemmon and elsewhere. Why bolt a beautiful face and not the 35 ft. leading into it? Maybe now this thing will get traffic.

For what it's worth, I also added a rap anchor so you can low angle rappel out of the gully, down towards Nang, because it is very loose... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Knights of the Wrong Tissue (5.12a/b)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Dec 30, 2013

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Comments: I personally think this is an under the radar classic Lemmon sport climb. If you have climbed Tsunami, New Wave, Time the Avenger, Honker, etc. you need to add this to the list of climbs you are happy to do more than once.

Unfortunately the last round of road construction left the gully a bit of a mess. Take care when hiking down to the climbs.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Dec 24, 2013

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Comments: Does anyone have recent road details after the recent rains/snow has come through over the last few weeks?

Thanks.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : The Dry Canyon : 4 - Superfly Sector : 100 Degrees of Solitude (5.13)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: OK, so what gives?

We got a 4 star quality rating and a 1 star quality rating??


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Prime Rib of RURP (5.12a)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: Congrats Clay!!! Way to put the work in!!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : King's Arete (5.12c/d)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Jun 7, 2013

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Comments: Having been on several Lemmon routes over the last few months in this range I agree that this one doesn't quite hit the .13 range. Regarding the two methods, the work around out right versus going straight up stares you right in the face, is not way off the bolt line, and has chalk all over it. You would have to make yourself go straight up the arete which is harder, but not the crux IMO. This is still a great route and well worth checking out.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : The Gallery
By: Luke Bertelsen When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: I replaced the main anchor and chains here on 5.19.2013, which is used by all three climbs on the wall. I also replaced missing hangers on the three climbs as many had been stripped off?? I have yet to remove the old anchor ( very rusted and 24 years old ), but will do ASAP.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Demolition Derby (5.12-)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: May 1, 2013

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Comments: The bottom of this route seems to have cleaned up a good bit. I enjoyed it. Calling it anywhere in the 12 range is a S T R E T C H for Mt. Lemmon.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Photo
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Apr 30, 2013

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Comments: Keeping it classy I see.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : King's Arete (5.12c/d)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Sep 14, 2012

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Comments: A 60M rope works with rope left to spare. We just put a long sling on the anchor at the ledge then went straight into the climb. We didn't have any issues for rope drag over the ledge.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Queen of Kings (5.10a/b)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Sep 13, 2012

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Comments: There is a ledge a few bolts off the ground. Today while climbing I fully weighted and then pulled off a brick sized rock when coming up onto the ledge. Luckily I still had some weight on feet, thus no ass over tea kettle fall backwards


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Jacks Canyon
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Aug 24, 2012

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Comments: What are the flood conditions in the canyon right now? Thanks for any info.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : The Bump (5.12d)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Jul 3, 2012

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Comments: Added lowering biners. 7.3.12


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Jailhouse Rock
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Feb 19, 2012

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Comments: So...........the new Mussy Hooks are nice, I guess. I never had problem with the chains. I guess cutting seconds off of your top rope transfer could be nice if you really got to get those pitches in though.

While guiding today I took down two sets today that were placed up there with carabiners that were taped closed with athletic tape?? These were on the Alcatraz Wall.

I am not trying to be a jerk to anyone who is going to replace hardware at our local crags, but let's try not to ghetto ri... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Heelium (5.12a/b)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Jul 19, 2011

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Comments: Fun climb. 3 rests with very interesting climbing in between. The boulder problem right off the ground is a kick in the pants. We got on this without knowing what it was. What are the other routes to the left and right??


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Infectious (5.13)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Jun 4, 2011

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Comments: Fun route indeed. The upper boulder is way stiff, and it seems that some nice cool temps would really help with sticking to some of those holds. Also, I left a draw high on the route (6.4.11). I will be back for it so this should not be considered "booty". Thanks.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : The Dry Canyon : 7 - Celebrity Cave : Renaissance Man (5.13a)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: May 1, 2011

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Comments: Replaced bolt 3 today. So cold out there for May 1st. Beautiful climbing day.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Tree Monsters (5.12d)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Apr 19, 2011

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Comments: FAist rated this 12+


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