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Member Since: Feb 27, 2005
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
Contact Luke Bertelsen


Point Rank: # 419
Total Points: 1,489
Last Year: 388
Last 30 Days: 0
30 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Luke Bertelsen been climbing?










Contributions


All 1068 | Routes 80 | Areas 14 | Photos 72 | Page Improvements | Comments 119 | Posts 37 | Stars 458 | Ratings 288
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : The Beach : Blood Meridian (5.12+)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: John, it's funny you mentioned one route being your style and the other not as much. I guess I feel pretty much the opposite about the two routes in terms of which suits me more. Both are fantastic. We've been hitting this place pretty hard this season. We finally got smart and learned not to even show up until it is in full shade. If you follow that rule the late afternoons/ early evenings are amazing out there.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : The Beach : Blood Meridian (5.12+)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Mar 6, 2015

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Comments: Pretty darn good route. I can't believe I made it out to The Beach probably 20 times before ever getting on this one. IMO this climb is the same difficulty as Milanoma only there is not a single small hold on the entire climb.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Knights of the Wrong Tissue (5.12a/b)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Feb 18, 2015

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Comments: I will have to remember before and after for the next route I visit for hardware updates.

I wanted to work on this route for awhile and it was kind of a tester for me in terms of the time investment to update an entire route. Pretty sure I clocked in at around 4 hours all said and done.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Knights of the Wrong Tissue (5.12a/b)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Feb 15, 2015

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Comments: New hardware bottom -> top. Goodbye bed-frame hangers, hello 1/2" stainless steel and camo FIXE hangers.

Hardware courtesy of ASCA.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : The Wasteland : The Wasteland (5.8)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Feb 5, 2015

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Comments: I always thought one of the best things about the route was the lack of bolts. You have have to use old skill climbing skills like:

Building gear anchors (gasp)
Route finding (oh no)

It's a bummer that a quality rating would be tied to whether the route was so user friendly that any person who was in the gym for the first time 3 months ago could waltz right up it with no issues.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Squaretop : Cragaholic's Dream (5.10c)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Jan 25, 2015

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Comments: tim, seems like you're in the minority on this one in terms of the quality rating.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : The Beach : Holeo An' Glassy Ass (5.13a)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Jan 16, 2015

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Comments: I had never been on this thing until the other day. I recall staring up on several occasions and feeling a little sick imagining the razor blade holds that might be on this climb. Oddly enough there is really only one sharp hold IMO, and the moves are a blast.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Mounds (5.10- X)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Jan 2, 2015

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Comments: Is it fixable?

Seems like people have know for awhile that this route is a ticking time bomb. The FA could take care of it, if possible, or it could just get chopped so we don't have to read about a rockfall accident at one of the few pedestrian sport climbing locations in the Stronghold.

Thoughts?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Power (5.9)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: Just pick any three.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Air Monsters (5.12a)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Nov 14, 2014

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Comments: I have walked by this a lot of late. Pretty sweet about the new hardware. I was curious about the added bolts. Any info? You can now clip a bolt barely off the ground where it used to be gear or run it out to a very high first bolt.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Zombie Flanders (5.12a)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Nov 1, 2014

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Comments: This one packs it in to be sure. IMO, this is the quintessential Mt. Lemmon "Your fingers will hate you for this" route.

Comparing this to the routes on Knights Wall is a stretch I think. It is shorter than the gym walls. I personally think Knights of the Wrong Tissue is harder. John, I think you rated Knights 11d. I think its harder than Holey Moley, Time the Avenger, and several other 12a climbs in the area.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Volunteer Canyon : South Side : ... : Death Dealer (5.12c)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Sep 19, 2014

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Comments: C'monů... We all know that the best MP route descriptions are edited then re-edited with a fine toothed comb so they will achieve a maximum number of page views. A masterpiece may be in the works.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : City of Gold
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Sep 19, 2014

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Comments: My wife and I road tripped all summer this year. The City of Gold was high on my list as a place to find and visit. After our first day climbing in Tensleep this year we arrived back at our truck to find a City of Gold map and topo under our windshield wiper. What Luck?!! The hike is a little rough. We tried to dress or improve the trail where we could, hopefully making it a little easier to get to the cliff.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Disfigured Oedipus [Var] (5.12)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Sep 9, 2014

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Comments: I absolutely disagree that link-ups and variations should be listed in the routes comments instead of as a new route if a MP user wants to add it as another entry. I also believe that an administrator stepping in to delete routes in these instances is over stepping in a big way.

I would hate to see that happen just because some folks think a link-up or variation is a less valid ascent. It's is totally fine to have that view, but that doesn't mean it should be pushed on to the climbing... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 Areas : Jacks Canyon : Swiss Wall : Bored Of Inquiry (5.12b)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Sep 2, 2014

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Comments: You are at Jack's Canyon, yes?


Location: WY : Lander Area : Sinks Canyon : Killer Cave : Mr. Majestyk (5.13b)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Jul 18, 2014

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Comments: Replaced dogbones and rope side carabiners on bolts 2,6,7,9,11,13,14, and 15 - 7.17.2014. Seems like some Climb Tech or Fixe permadraws would be the way to go. The rest of the wall ( other than Killer ) could use some love as well. Some of the tat I took down was Sketchy and probably had been there for way too long.


Location: WY : Lander Area : Sinks Canyon : White Heat Wall : Spike 'n Vein (5.11b)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: I thought this climb was fun, but the bolt spacing was odd. Committing climbing brings you to a high first bolt (easily solved with a stick clip), and then the run between bolt 3 and 4 (high on the slab to well into the bulge) is just silly.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Downtown : John Henry Grotto : Shaker (5.13)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Jul 1, 2014

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Comments: This route is amazing. Skip FCR for a day and come climb this thing!!!!


Location: WY : Lander Area : Sinks Canyon : Addiction : Addiction (5.12c)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Jun 28, 2014

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Comments: The fact that someone rated this 12- is hilarious!!


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : The Compound
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Jun 4, 2014

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Comments: Just a heads up..... Of course it is any climber's responsibility to check out fixed hardware if they are using it. We removed two very sharp half worn through fixed draws off of first bolts today. Take a look at what you are climbing on before you trust it with your life. The crag in general could use an upgrade if fixed gear is going to be the norm.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : Shady Lane : 245 North (5.10b)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: Do not miss this route!!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : In Search of Silence [Var] (5.13b)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: My short answer is, yes. The reason why is because IT IS JUST CLIMBING!! The community will police itself in odd instances like the ones mentioned in the above comment, which are all rather extreme examples. No line needs to be drawn. There hasn't really been a problem thus far. We're talking about a handful of routes out of THOUSANDS. FWIW, some of my favorite and best guidebooks, the New Maple Canoyn guidebook, the Tensleep guidebook, the Hueco Tanks guidebook, the Bishop Boudlering guid... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : In Search of Silence [Var] (5.13b)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: I Absolutely agree with Alex here. Link ups are common in almost all of the popular sport areas across the U.S. To not name them separately is plain silly. To rate them lower quality because they were not the original bolted lines is even more silly. Link ups may not require the FA to place bolts or clean rock, but it still takes vision and hard work.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Box Canyon : Ammo Dump Wall : Watermelon Sugar (5.12a)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: May 30, 2014

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Comments:
These chains had also been added.  Presumably they...
These chains had also been added. Presumably they worked just fine for quite some time, but I wouldn't lock my bike up with these things. I added a quick link of what I'd consider to be a more commonly used size for scale. Quick links and mussy hooks are now at the anchor.



Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Box Canyon : Ammo Dump Wall : Watermelon Sugar (5.12a)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: Old anchors on 5.30.2014
What's wrong with this picture?
What's wrong with this picture?



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