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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Puff Daddy (5.11d)
By: Lucas79 When: Jan 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: A standard rack up to #3 with double finger-sized pieces and you can sew this thing up...bring your rack! Short boulder problem off the ledge up to a 5.9 dihedral. Would prob be a 10b or 10c in most trad areas.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Rock : Steck-Salathe (5.10-)
By: Lucas79 When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As kovarpa mentioned, if you miss the 5.7 traverse after the squeeze you'll end up off route and in the wrong gully. If you keep climbing up the gully though it links back up with the route at the flying buttress. There are 1 or 2 fun 5.10 sections on pretty good rock in there...but definitely some crumbly/exfoliating rock in between.
Pretty fun altogether, I'd do it again.
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Storm Boulders : Ride the Lightning (V6)
By: Lucas79 When: Sep 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Once you figure out the footwork it's not that bad....just technical. No move harder than V4. I'm 5.8 and didn't have to use that garbage undercling beta....just look for a small toejam to get through that section. Fun top out.
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Location: MA : Lynn Woods : Stone Tower area : Bob Johnson Boulders
By: Lucas79 When: Aug 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've tried finding these boulders twice now and have stuck out both times. Any additional directions/beta would be most appreciated. Where do you take a left at? Where are these in relation to the Stone Tower?
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Lurking Fear (5.7 C2)
By: Lucas79 When: Jul 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The topo says something about an 80' swing around the arete to reach the bivy ledge from the top of pitch 10. While I suppose you could get to the bivy ledge from the top of 10 if you HAD to....it would be a real hassle. Just plan on climbing to the top of 11 and rapping down to the ledge....save yourself some trouble.
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Location: MA : Quincy Quarries : K Wall (aka M Face) : Pins (5.9)
By: Lucas79 When: May 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good lead, and there's a bomber placement for that 00 Metolius that you haven't used in months up there! Pro is kinda tricky up top though....
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Location: MA : Hammond Pond : Alcove Entrance Boulder : Trance Space (V7-)
By: Lucas79 When: Dec 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun problem, probably closer to a V4 than a V7...but fun nonetheless.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Mr. Coors Contributes to th... (5.9+)
By: Lucas79 When: Nov 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Aside from Shadow of a Hangdog...best moderate trad line at North Table Mountain.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Fishisms (5.10-)
By: Lucas79 When: Nov 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remember having a bit of trouble protecting the middle crux section...made for an exciting move or two.
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : Atlas (V6)
By: Lucas79 When: Nov 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sweet problem, was surprised by the rating though. I thought it felt in the V3/4 range when I did it.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Woodland Park Boulders (The... : Crack Traverse (V4+)
By: Lucas79 When: Jun 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, the last few moves are a bit dicey if you don't have a spotter or pad....but manageable. Crux is a crimpy section between good jams.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ute Valley Park : South Side Area : Main Boulder aka The Wedge : Floater aka Center Route (V5)
By: Lucas79 When: Jun 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This would be a solid V5 anywhere in the country. Awesome problem, the style of it kinda reminds me of Serengeti in Bishop.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ute Pass
By: Lucas79 When: Mar 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know what that nice looking crag is on the ridge line south, (I think), of the bouldering area??
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