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Member Since: May 25, 2010
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
Contact Lucas79


Point Rank: # 5,105
Total Points: 77
Last Year: 58
Last 30 Days: 6
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Lucas79 been climbing?










Contributions


All 161 | Routes | Areas | Photos 11 | Page Improvements | Comments 22 | Posts 35 | Stars 45 | Ratings 48
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Instead of doing the long left traverse on P1...cl...

Instead of doing the long left traverse on P1...climb up and right following the obvious crack system. Makes linking the first 2 pitches quite manageable. Very natural line....with a spot of well prot

NH : Cannon Cliff : ... : Comment

2 days ago

NH : Kancamagus Crags : ... : Screaming Yellow Zonkers Cr... (5.11c)

Oct 3, 2014

top of p5

top of p5

NH : Cannon Cliff : ... : VMC Direct Direct (5.10+)

Sep 29, 2014

entering the 11- section of p2

entering the 11- section of p2

NH : Cannon Cliff : ... : Benedictus/Masterpiece (5.11c)

Aug 28, 2014

 p3

p3

UT : Moab Area : ... : Wild Flower (5.10a)

Jul 6, 2014

MA : Lynn Woods : ... : The Swell (V7)

Jun 30, 2014

MA : Lynn Woods : ... : The Swell (V7)

Jun 30, 2014

MA : Lynn Woods : ... : The Swell (V7)

Jun 30, 2014

p2 crux

p2 crux

NH : Cannon Cliff : ... : VMC Direct Direct (5.10+)

Jun 30, 2014

p2 crux

p2 crux

NH : Cannon Cliff : ... : VMC Direct Direct (5.10+)

Jun 30, 2014

Spearhead as of a week and a half ago. We were the...

Spearhead as of a week and a half ago. We were the first tracks trying to get past Mill's Lake.

Colorado : RMNP conditions : Post

Jun 27, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Moonshadow (5.9)
By: Lucas79 When: 2 days ago

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Comments:
Instead of doing the long left traverse on P1...cl...
Instead of doing the long left traverse on P1...climb up and right following the obvious crack system. Makes linking the first 2 pitches quite manageable. Very natural line....with a spot of well protected 9+/10a laybacking.



Location: MA : Lynn Woods : Weetamoo area : Weetamoo Boulder : Golden Arete (V7)
By: Lucas79 When: Nov 16, 2014

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Comments: Aesthetic, precise, technical, hard....and just tall enough to get a bit spooky at the top/crux.
They don't get much better than this one.


Location: MA : Lynn Woods : 14th Hole Boulder at Gannon... : Buck Shot (V7)
By: Lucas79 When: Nov 14, 2014

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Comments: I think this is the one I climbed today. Does this route utilize the small 2 finger gaston on the blunt arete with your right hand? Then uses the decent sidepulls on the left face before topping out? Using that gaston to get my feet up was the crux for me.


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Woodchuck Ledge : The Zonkers Wall : Zonked Out (5.12b)
By: Lucas79 When: Oct 26, 2014

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Comments: 5.10ish climbing up to a tricky V4ish crux. I fell & pulled out a cam yesterday on this route when the rock busted around it....be careful. This rock is not as solid as granite.
Soooo fun though....can't wait to get back on it.


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : VMC Direct Direct (5.10+) : Photo
By: Lucas79 When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: Met this gentleman for the first time in the parking lot a few hours before this shot....topped out VMC. This was the first route he's been on at Cannon.....burly.
Good day out.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : The King Wall : Kingdom Come (5.12a A0)
By: Lucas79 When: Sep 13, 2014

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Comments: The first 2 pitches of this route, (and it's neighboring routes on each side), remain dry even if it's been raining for several days....or is currently raining. Make sure to get on pitch 2....the position is AMAZING! Climbs more like a trad route than a sport climb.


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Benedictus/Masterpiece (5.11c) : Photo
By: Lucas79 When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: There's a loose pin and then 2, (solid looking), fixed nuts through this section. Small cams are helpful here for backup.


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : The White Iceberg (5.12)
By: Lucas79 When: Aug 20, 2014

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Comments: It's unfortunate that this route doesn't get the attention it deserves. I can only speak for the 1st pitch....but the granite is perfect and the climbing is incredible.
I'd be in favor of, (and possibly willing to), update the hardware on the 1st pitch however. Replacing those old pins with bolts seems like a good idea....updating the old bolts makes sense to. Maybe that would get more traffic on this gem?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Wild Flower (5.10a)
By: Lucas79 When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Awesome route with varied climbing.
A fall while maneuvering up to the first bolt on pitch 1 is ill advised....should prob get a PG-13 for that section.
Pitch 3 felt around 10+ to me, but is super well protected....so get on it.
Rapping with 1 70 got us about 8 feet shy of the final rapp station....Bring 2 Ropes.


Location: MA : Lynn Woods : Weetamoo area : F7 Boulder : The Chi Problem (V6)
By: Lucas79 When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: There's a hard sit start inside the cave that could be linked to this problem and will likely add several numbers to the rating. I'm guessing it's in the V9-V10 range....maybe harder. Come set it free.


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Moby Grape (5.8)
By: Lucas79 When: Jun 29, 2013

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Comments: The original first pitch is much more varied and thoughtful than Reppys.....and a good way to pass slow parties. Def a grade harder than Reppys. Do it in one long pitch to the top of the buttress.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Puff Daddy (5.11d)
By: Lucas79 When: Jan 9, 2013

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Comments: A standard rack up to #3 with double finger-sized pieces and you can sew this thing up...bring your rack! Short boulder problem off the ledge up to a 5.9 dihedral. Would prob be a 10b or 10c in most trad areas.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Rock : Steck-Salathe (5.10-)
By: Lucas79 When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: As kovarpa mentioned, if you miss the 5.7 traverse after the squeeze you'll end up off route and in the wrong gully. If you keep climbing up the gully though it links back up with the route at the flying buttress. There are 1 or 2 fun 5.10 sections on pretty good rock in there...but definitely some crumbly/exfoliating rock in between.
Pretty fun altogether, I'd do it again.



Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Storm Boulders : Ride the Lightning (V6)
By: Lucas79 When: Sep 13, 2012

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Comments: Once you figure out the footwork it's not that bad....just technical. No move harder than V4. I'm 5.8 and didn't have to use that garbage undercling beta....just look for a small toejam to get through that section. Fun top out.


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