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Member Since: May 25, 2010
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Total Points: 51
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 135 | Routes | Areas | Photos 7 | Page Improvments | Comments 16 | Posts 29 | Stars 39 | Ratings 44
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
 p3

p3

UT : Moab Area : ... : Wild Flower (5.10a)

Jul 6, 2014

  <br />

MA : Lynn Woods : ... : The Swell (V7)

Jun 30, 2014

MA : Lynn Woods : ... : The Swell (V7)

Jun 30, 2014

MA : Lynn Woods : ... : The Swell (V7)

Jun 30, 2014

p2 crux

p2 crux

NH : Cannon Cliff : ... : VMC Direct Direct (5.10+)

Jun 30, 2014

p2 crux

p2 crux

NH : Cannon Cliff : ... : VMC Direct Direct (5.10+)

Jun 30, 2014

Spearhead as of a week and a half ago. We were the first tracks trying to get past Mill's Lake.

Spearhead as of a week and a half ago. We were the first tracks trying to get past Mill's Lake.

Colorado : RMNP conditions : Post

Jun 27, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : The White Iceberg (5.12)
By: Lucas79 When: 2 days ago

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Comments: It's unfortunate that this route doesn't get the attention it deserves. I can only speak for the 1st pitch....but the granite is perfect and the climbing is incredible.
I'd be in favor of, (and possibly willing to), update the hardware on the 1st pitch however. Replacing those old pins with bolts seems like a good idea....updating the old bolts makes sense to. Maybe that would get more traffic on this gem?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Wild Flower (5.10a)
By: Lucas79 When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Awesome route with varied climbing.
A fall while maneuvering up to the first bolt on pitch 1 is ill advised....should prob get a PG-13 for that section.
Pitch 3 felt around 10+ to me, but is super well protected....so get on it.
Rapping with 1 70 got us about 8 feet shy of the final rapp station....Bring 2 Ropes.


Location: MA : Lynn Woods : Weetamoo area : F7 Boulder : The Chi Problem (V6)
By: Lucas79 When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: There's a hard sit start inside the cave that could be linked to this problem and will likely add several numbers to the rating. I'm guessing it's in the V9-V10 range....maybe harder. Come set it free.


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Moby Grape (5.8)
By: Lucas79 When: Jun 29, 2013

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Comments: The original first pitch is much more varied and thoughtful than Reppys.....and a good way to pass slow parties. Def a grade harder than Reppys. Do it in one long pitch to the top of the buttress.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Puff Daddy (5.11d)
By: Lucas79 When: Jan 9, 2013

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Comments: A standard rack up to #3 with double finger-sized pieces and you can sew this thing up...bring your rack! Short boulder problem off the ledge up to a 5.9 dihedral. Would prob be a 10b or 10c in most trad areas.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Rock : Steck-Salathe (5.10-)
By: Lucas79 When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: As kovarpa mentioned, if you miss the 5.7 traverse after the squeeze you'll end up off route and in the wrong gully. If you keep climbing up the gully though it links back up with the route at the flying buttress. There are 1 or 2 fun 5.10 sections on pretty good rock in there...but definitely some crumbly/exfoliating rock in between.
Pretty fun altogether, I'd do it again.



Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Storm Boulders : Ride the Lightning (V6)
By: Lucas79 When: Sep 13, 2012

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Comments: Once you figure out the footwork it's not that bad....just technical. No move harder than V4. I'm 5.8 and didn't have to use that garbage undercling beta....just look for a small toejam to get through that section. Fun top out.


Location: MA : Lynn Woods : Stone Tower area : Bob Johnson Boulders
By: Lucas79 When: Aug 24, 2012

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Comments: I've tried finding these boulders twice now and have stuck out both times. Any additional directions/beta would be most appreciated. Where do you take a left at? Where are these in relation to the Stone Tower?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Lurking Fear (5.7 C2)
By: Lucas79 When: Jul 28, 2012

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Comments: The topo says something about an 80' swing around the arete to reach the bivy ledge from the top of pitch 10. While I suppose you could get to the bivy ledge from the top of 10 if you HAD to....it would be a real hassle. Just plan on climbing to the top of 11 and rapping down to the ledge....save yourself some trouble.


Location: MA : Hammond Pond : Alcove Entrance Boulder : Trance Space (V7-)
By: Lucas79 When: Dec 4, 2011

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Comments: Fun problem, probably closer to a V4 than a V7...but fun nonetheless.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Mr. Coors Contributes to th... (5.9+)
By: Lucas79 When: Nov 4, 2011

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Comments: Aside from Shadow of a Hangdog...best moderate trad line at North Table Mountain.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Fishisms (5.10-)
By: Lucas79 When: Nov 4, 2011

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Comments: I remember having a bit of trouble protecting the middle crux section...made for an exciting move or two.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : Atlas (V6)
By: Lucas79 When: Nov 4, 2011

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Comments: Sweet problem, was surprised by the rating though. I thought it felt in the V4 range the way I did it.


Location: CO : South Platte : Woodland Park Boulders (The... : Crack Traverse (V4+)
By: Lucas79 When: Jun 29, 2011

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Comments: Great route, the last few moves are a bit dicey if you don't have a spotter or pad....but manageable. Crux is a crimpy section between good jams.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ute Valley Park : South Side Area : Main Boulder aka The Wedge : Floater aka Center Route (V5)
By: Lucas79 When: Jun 20, 2011

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Comments: This would be a solid V5 anywhere in the country. Awesome problem, the style of it kinda reminds me of Serengeti in Bishop.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ute Pass
By: Lucas79 When: Mar 23, 2011

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Comments: Does anyone know what that nice looking crag is on the ridge line south, (I think), of the bouldering area??


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Rumney sport climbing/bouldering this weekend 8/9 or 8/10Eastern and Southern StatesLucas79Aug 8, 2014
re: climbing partner Cathedral, Rumney, Gunks, Canon, etc... (October 11th-14th)Eastern and Southern StatesLucas79Oct 13, 2013
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