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Member Since: Oct 23, 2002
Last Visit: Jan 18, 2012
Contact Luc Gruenther


Point Rank: # 3,964
Total Points: 107
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
34 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Luc Gruenther been climbing?










Contributions


All 31 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 13 | Page Improvements | Comments 12 | Posts | Stars 3 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Project X Wall
By: Luc Gruenther When: May 5, 2003

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Comments: I was in shock when I hiked up to the Project X Wall a few days ago and found that someone had used spray paint to graffiti the main wall, just below Nuclear Blue and Project X routes. It is a terrible eyesore on the previously-asthetic face. I know this was not done by climbers, and I also know that any climber in his right mind would put a climbing rope noose around the graffiti "artist's" neck if he could. It's very disappointing to see one of our local crags defaced this way. I've attach... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : Waiting for Staircase 1-3 (5.8-)
By: Luc Gruenther When: Apr 28, 2003

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Comments: With regard to Thompson's post:

Actually, the two rightmost routes (of the three bolted slab routes immediately right of Staircase and immediately left of Hollow Flake) can be done as "sport climbs" with a 60m rope. I've climbed them both several times this way. In fact, I just had an outing with a bunch of beginners and we set up a toprope on the two rightmost routes. They share the same set of anchors, whereas the leftmost bolted route (3-pitch 5.9), goes to a different set of anchors tha... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock
By: Luc Gruenther When: Apr 22, 2003

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Comments: I just talked to Pete Gallager at the Forest Service yesterday (April 22, 2003) and he said that there will most likely be a limited reopening of the Hayman burn areas on April 28th, 2003. Sheep's Nose will probably be accessible as normal, but climbers may only be able to access Turkey by foot from Stump Ranch...a long hike.

He was sure to emphasize that the decision is a "fluid" one, so don't count on anything for sure. Check fs.fed.us/r2/psicc/ for press releases, especially a... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP
By: Luc Gruenther When: Nov 17, 2002

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Comments: To the dude who tried out Castlewood once and thinks it's "a pile for sure...."

I'd encourage you to check out some of the classics at Castlewood. While some of the routes are a bit loose or suffer from bad bolting, there are some really sweet routes in the Canyon. Give Castlewood another chance and when you do, try some of my favorites. I think all are listed on this website.

Beta Slave (10c), Patrick Hedgeclipper (11c), Korbite Maneuver (12a), Professor Plum (12a/b), Entry Level (8), Pa... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Playground : Professor Plum With The Can... (5.12a/b)
By: Luc Gruenther When: Nov 9, 2002

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Comments: This route is sweet as sweet. The boulder problem off the ground is powerful and intimidating, but well protected if you can manage to clip the first bolt from the ground. The rest of the route is incredible crimping on cobbles and pulling pockets to the top. Wow, fun route.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Juggernaut Area : Bat Face (5.10a)
By: Luc Gruenther When: Nov 5, 2002

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Comments: I recently added 2 short chains to the anchors so that you can toprope and lower off this route without having to hike to the top to retrieve gear. I wasn't able to contact Tom Hanson to get his permission. If anyone has a problem with my addition, please let me know (email blueskiesluc@hotmail.com). I would suspect that the climbing community will appreciate being able to lower off this sweet route.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Elevenmile Dome : Moby Grape (5.7)
By: Luc Gruenther When: Nov 1, 2002

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Comments: The first pitch of this route is a great one if you're looking to take a beginner up a sweet toprope. It is possible to use a 60m rope, but I had to climb the first 15 feet or so of easy rock at the base of the route in order to belay for the toprope. Of course, that also means downclimbing from that point after you've rapped from the anchors. I didn't find it too tough at all.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road
By: Luc Gruenther When: Nov 1, 2002

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Comments: If you're going to camp at Shelf Road, please pay the $4/night fee. The campgrounds, roads, and trails are maintained by the Bureau of Land Management, which has been extremely cooperative with climbers. Shelf is one of the few climbing areas with trail signs that point your way to specific climbing areas. Furthermore, the trails are well maintained solely for climbers use; it's not like a state or national park, which maintains trails for tourists and which climbers benefit from as... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Southwest Face / Finger Fac... : Place in the Sun (5.8)
By: Luc Gruenther When: Oct 26, 2002

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Comments: For what it's worth, I just did this route yesterday and found it to be less than pleasing due to the poor rock quality. Some of the flakes are incredibly brittle and flakey, to the point that I didn't want to weight them, but had to in order to make the moves.

The above comment is correct in that the route is harder than 5.8 due to ledges of the soft sandstone being pulled off.


Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Jackson Creek : Split Dome aka Split Rock
By: Luc Gruenther When: Oct 24, 2002

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Comments: Follow directions above to Jackson Creek Rd., drive past Jackson Creek Campground and continue on the road along a creek until the road turns a 90-degree angle to the right and crosses the creek. Before crossing the creek, park in an obvious 4-5 car parking area. Hiking on the road, cross the creek, then take a smaller road to the left about 25 yards past the creek. Hike around the right side of a room-sized and obvious boulder and straight up a dry, rocky, vegetated creekbed. This approach ... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Sea World a.k.a. Hanson's W... : Subterfuge (5.11d)
By: Luc Gruenther When: Oct 23, 2002

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Comments: This route is fantastic, and one of my favorites in the canyon. Climb fast and enjoy the bouldery moves between frequent clips, then grunt through the final moves to the anchors. Fun fun fun.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : Waiting for Staircase 1-3 (5.8-)
By: Luc Gruenther When: Oct 23, 2002

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Comments: I just climbed the 2 rightmost of thes routes and found that they both go to an anchor below the lowest roof that is less than 100 ft off the deck, so you can use a single 60m rope. However, the leftmost route (immediately right of the Staircase) goes to a separate anchor below a higher roof...you will need 2 ropes to rap from there.

Also, the 2 routes on the right have 6 bolts each and are well-spaced and plenty safe. I didn't see any need for passive gear.

The leftmost route is listed in t... more >>